2000 Pontiac Bonneville V6 3.8L Engine VIN 1 Serpentine Belt Tensioner Pulley TRQ BPA03853

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Hi, I'm Don from 1A Auto. I hope this how-to video helps you out, and next time you need parts for your vehicle, think of 1AAuto.com. Thanks.

In this video, we're going to show you how to replace the idler pulley on a Ford Escort ZX2 with 2 liter dual overhead cam engine. It's going to be pretty similar to most of the Ford Escorts with that engine type. The items needed are a new idler pulley from 1AAuto.com; 10, 13, and 15mm socket and socket wrench; a 17mm wrench; and a floor jack.

The first thing you're going to want, before you do this repair, is a belt diagram and we have a nice one made up for you right here. It should give you a pretty good representation of how the belt is routed. Starting at the top left, that's the alternator. Then, going to the right, that's an idler pulley, to the power steering pump them down to the A/C compressor, then over to the crank shaft, then to the tensioner pulley, then to the water pump, another idler pulley and up to the alternator.

In the lower front and right in the wheel area, there's seven 10mm bolts that hold this splash pan in place. In this case, on our car, there's only four, but you're going to remove all of them. Actually, what we find is we take off one and the pan kind of bends down, and we try to remove the other ones but the clips in behind were so rusted that we decided we didn't want to break all of them. We just left it that way and let the pan, or the splash pan hang down out of the way.

I've got a 13mm socket on the end of my ratchet and I'm going to put it on the bolt that goes through the pulley, on the tensioner pulley. I'm going to turn it clockwise to remove the pressure on the belt and then slide the belt off the crank and the rest of the pulleys. The rest of the way, it's a matter of just pulling it down, twisting it a little bit to get it off some of the pulleys and you could also pull it off from the top, as well.

We've got the jack under the oil pan, just enough to support it. We're not really lifting the engine, we're just supporting it. I'm taking out the 17mm bolt that holds on the engine mount. I'm going to fast forward through me removing that bolt. We've got Mike jacking up the engine just a little bit to give us a little more clearance. Here, I've got the wrench on the idler pulley. I'm going to fast forward removing the bolt.

We've got the old part and we've got the identical part from 1A Auto. We're going to fast forward this but it's just the idler pulley and bolt going back in.

Here, I'm reinstalling the bolt for the engine mount and I'm having Mike lower the engine slowly so it lines the holes back up. Once you've got the bolt in, just go ahead and tighten it up.

You're not really going to be able to see me doing the belt, but snake it back in and follow the diagram for routing it. That first step that Don just did, he just got the belt down below the A/C and the crank pulley, preliminarily. Here, I'm just continuing the push the belt down in and trying to get it around as many of the pulleys as I can. I'm just going to speed it along a little bit as I get the belt on. What Don just did there was, there's just some clearance issues getting by the water pump and those tensioner pulleys, he just kind of twisted it to the side and got it over on its way to the alternator. With the top part, it's pretty much done. It's around the alternator, underneath the idler and over the power steering. I want to get this belt on the other side of this pulley, the ribbed pulley here. I'm going to twist it and try not to have it fall of the alternator pulley which is right above it. All right, good.

What we've done here is we've pulled a loop across and you can see I'm helping him out a little bit. I'm holding the belt off of the A/C pulley so he can pull the loop from that tensioner on the back side of the motor towards the front and put it on to the tensioner in the front of the engine. In order to get the wrench in there, it's better to have the pulley off of the crank rather than the A/C pulley, so he just transfers it, takes it off the crank so he has enough room to get it on. I'm using a 15mm here, which is what the new one came with and turning it clockwise. I have to release the tension on the bearing and I've got to make sure, too, that all my belts are on the pulleys because if they're off a little bit, it's not going to give me the room I need. Everything is on except for the crank pulley, and as I do this, it's going to give me room. I'm going to hold it in tight. You can see, Don. He's working the wrench with the right hand and then using the left hand push the belt on to the crank pulley.

Make sure they're all on. Make sure all of them are on and the belt is lined up with the teeth on your pulleys and plug your AC back in. I'm just going to give it one more look up top, like below. I want to make sure that the toothed belt is seated correctly on the power steering, alternator, water pump and below this idler pulley. Once you've done that, just put the splash pan back up and bolt it back in place.

We hope this video helps you out. Brought to you by www.1AAuto.com, your source for quality replacement parts and the best service on the Internet. Please feel free to call us toll-free, 888-844-3393. We're the company that's here for you on the Internet and in person.

Hi, I'm Mike from 1AAuto. We've been selling auto parts for over 30 years! We're dedicated to delivering quality auto parts, expert customer service, and fast and free shipping, all backed by our 100% satisfaction guarantee. So visit us at 1AAuto.com, your trusted source for quality auto parts.

In this video, we're going to be working with our 1996 GMC Sierra K1500 5.7-liter V8. We're going to show you how to remove and replace the idler pulley on your serpentine belt.

If you like this video, please click subscribe. We have a ton more information on this truck as well as many other makes and models. If you ever need parts for your car, you can follow the link down in the description over to 1AAuto.com.

Here are the items you'll need for this repair: 13mm socket, ratchet, socket extension, torque wrench

Be sure your vehicle has a belt path diagram somewhere on the cowl or under the hood before removing the belt. If it's missing or unclear, be sure to draw it somewhere under the hood or take a good picture. Put the 3/8 drive of a ratchet into the square on your serpentine belt tensioner and turn it counterclockwise to release tension. Then simply pull the belt off of any one of the pulleys, slowly release the tension from the tensioner. Remove your ratchet, and take the belt off of the pulleys.

Your idler pulley is located at the top center of the engine at the front, right between your alternator and your A/C if your vehicle came equipped. Use a 13mm socket and ratchet to remove the 13mm bolt in the center of the pulley. Remove the pulley from the vehicle.

Now our pulley is still in okay shape, so rather than waste a new part, we're going to reinstall it, but installing your new part will be exactly the same. Simply line up the bolt, which is captured inside of the pulley so it doesn't come out. We'll bring that in as far as we can by hand and then tighten it down with our 13mm socket and ratchet before torqueing. Torque this bolt to 37 foot pounds. Make sure that it rolls smoothly and freely.

Hook the serpentine belt around the crank pulley or harmonic balancer from the passenger side. Be sure that it seats fully into the grooves of the pulley and doesn't lay over the edge on either side. Wrap the driver's side of the belt around the water pump, under the power steering pump on the other side, and up and over the AC compressor. I already have the left side wrapped around the tensioner here just because that's where it falls. Then, from over the AC compressor under the idler pulley, reinstall the ratchet into the tensioner. Turn the ratchet counterclockwise to release the tension, and install your belt over the alternator. Take a second just to look around and make sure that your belt is seated and routed properly before releasing the tension and removing your ratchet.

Thanks for watching. Visit us at 1AAuto.com for quality auto parts, fast and free shipping, and the best customer service in the industry.

Brought to you by 1AAuto.com, your source for quality replacement parts and the best service on the Internet.

Hi, I'm Don from 1A Auto. I hope this how-to video helps you out, and the next time you need a part for your vehicle, think of 1AAuto.com. Thanks.

In this video, we're going to show you how to replace the idler pulley on this 1996 Chevy Tahoe with the 5.7-liter V8 engine. It's the same part in similar process on a large variety of GM vehicles, and it fits the Tahoes from 1996 to 2008. The items you'll need for this include: a new idler pulley from 1AAuto.com; a 10mm and 13mm socket and a ratchet with an extension; and a 3/8-inch ratchet.

First, we need to just remove this cable. Push back on that tab and pull the harness up and out. Next, you want to remove this series of 10mm bolts that line this panel. We'll just fast-forward as Don removes each of those. Now, lift that shroud up and off.

Now, using your 3/8-inch ratchet, just push it in to that square hole. Then when you push down on it, it will loosen up the tension on the belt allowing you to pull it free. Just start off by pulling off the alternator, and then carefully let the ratchet up, pull it out, remove your belt the rest of the way, and pull it over that fan. Your idler pulley is located right here, and it's held in with a 13mm bolt. Just go ahead and remove that. Once that's removed, the pulley will pull right off.

Take your new idler pulley and push it into place with the bolt already through it, and just tighten that bolt up. Now, to put the serpentine belt back on, you're going to want to use this belt routing diagram. If you don't have AC, you use the dash line. If you do, then you're going to use the solid line, and you just want to follow this and put your belt on in this order. It's kind of hard to show Don doing it, so we're just going to fast-forward as he fits it over each of the pulleys.

When all that's left is your alternator, put that 3/8-inch ratchet back into your tensioner, push down, put the belt up on the alternator, and then carefully release the ratchet and pull it out. Fit that shroud back down into place, and make sure all of your holes are lining up. We'll just fast-forward as Don replaces that series of 10mm bolts. Now, just push that harness back into that clip and push it down into place.

We hope this video helps you out. Brought to you by www.1AAuto.com, your source for quality replacement parts and the best service on the Internet. Please feel free to call us toll-free, 888-844-3393. We're the company that's here for you on the Internet and in person.

Hi, I'm Mike from 1AAuto. We've been selling auto parts for over 30 years! We're dedicated to delivering quality auto parts, expert customer service, and fast and free shipping, all backed by our 100% satisfaction guarantee. So visit us at 1AAuto.com, your trusted source for quality auto parts.

In this video we're going to be working with our 2002 Chevy Suburban. We're going to show you how to remove and replace the idler pulley on a 5.3L V8.

If you like this video, please click subscribe. We have a ton more information on this and many other vehicles. If you ever need parts for your car, you can follow the link down in the description over to 1aauto.com.

Here are the items you'll need for this repair: flat blade screwdriver, 15mm wrench, 15mm socket, ratchet, socket extension

Loosen the hose clamp just after the mass air flow sensor. This is going to be the second one back from your air box. We'll do this using a flat-blade screwdriver. Wiggle and twist the boot to release it from the mass air flow sensor. You may need to use your screwdriver to help kind of peel it back here. These tend to get stuck on pretty good. We'll also remove the one at the throttle body. We'll need to disconnect the hoses from their clamps here. You can either try prying it out there or there's also a little clamp at the bottom here that you should be able to compress, pop loose with the flat-blade, and remove the intake runner from the vehicle.

We've removed some things like the radiator fan and the fan shroud to make it easier to show you what's going on, but you shouldn't need to do this if you're doing this job at home. Before removing your serpentine belt, make sure your vehicle has a belt path diagram under the hood somewhere. If this is missing or faded, you can just draw another one onto the plastic with something like a paint marker. Using a 15 mm wrench on the tensioner rotate the nut clockwise to slack the belt.

Pop the belt off of whatever pulley's easiest for you to reach. Let the tension off the pulley, and remove your serpentine belt. Your idler pulley is located below the alternator and to the left. Use a 15 mm socket and ratchet to remove the center bolt, and remove the assembly from the vehicle.

Now there's nothing wrong with our idler pulley, so rather than waste a good part we'll reinstall it. Make sure the pulley spins smoothly and freely.

Install the belt over the front grooves of the harmonic balancer or crank pulley. Bringing the right side over top of the pulley. We'll then go over top of the water pump and loop under the power steering pump, over the alternator, under the idler pulley. I'll keep this piece in my hand. Make sure that everything is seated because this one's kind of tight and you're going to want the room. Using my 15mm wrench, we'll take the tension off of the tensioner pulley, slide the belt over, double-check that our path is right, all of the belt is properly seated, and then let the tension back on.

Reinstall the intake tubing. It's easiest to set it onto the throttle body. Reengage the hoses into their clips and then get the boot over the air box. Then tighten down both clamps with a flat blade screwdriver.

Thanks for watching. Visit us at 1AAuto.com for quality auto parts, fast and free shipping, and the best customer service in the industry.

Hi, I'm Mike from 1A Auto. We've been selling auto parts for over 30 years. We're dedicated to delivering quality auto parts, expert customer service, fast and free shipping, all backed by our 100% satisfaction guarantee. Visit us at 1AAuto.com, your trusted source for quality auto parts.

In this video we're going to be working with our 2006 Ford Explorer 4.6L V8. We're going to show you how to remove and replace your vehicles idler pulleys. If you like this video please click subscribe. We have a ton more information on this and many other vehicles and if you need these parts for your truck you can follow the link down in the description over to 1AAuto.com. Here are the items you'll need for this repair.

Loosen the clamp on the air box side of the intake duct with a flat blade screwdriver. You'll then want to disconnect the breather lines. There's a little green tab here that you just pull back and pop them off. You'll then need to undo the clamp on the throttle body. You'll then want to remove the intake duct.

For some jobs like your alternator or idler pulleys, it may not be necessary to remove the belt fully. However, if the pulley has been dragging from a bad bearing or a weak alternator, it's probably damaged your belt a bit too and it's not a bad idea to replace it while you're in here.

Using a 1/2" drive ratchet, place it into the square drive of the serpentine belt tensioner and rotate the tensioner clockwise to release pressure and remove the belt from one of the pulleys. It's usually easiest to do this from a smooth pulley. Then carefully release tension and remove your ratchet. Remove the serpentine belt from under the A/C compressor and then pull the loop up and through over your tensioner. You'll then want to get it out from under the crack where it loops over the water pump. You've already unhooked it from the idler pulley on this side so loop it out from the grooved idler pulley and the power steering pump and remove your belt.

Your idler pulleys are located on either side of the alternator just below it. About half way down the engine. To remove this you'll need a 13mm socket and ratchet. You just want to loosen and remove the center bolt on either pulley. Then remove the pulley from the engine.

Reinstall the pulley. And the 13 mm bolt. We'll then tighten it back down with the 13 mm socket and ratchet. Repeat these steps if you're replacing the pulley on the opposite side.

Now reinstalling the serpentine belt on this is going to be pretty difficult to show. You want to start with a loop and send it down and around the crank pulley. Now you're going to take the passenger side of the belt and bring it down between the tensioner and the A/C compressor at the bottom of the motor. With the right side of the belt, you're going to go up and over the water pump pulley all the way to the button of the motor on the driver side, where you'll go under the grooved idler pulley, as well as under the power steering pump pulley. Install your 1/2" drive into the tensioner and rotate it clockwise to release the belt tension. It's usually easiest to get over the alternator, then move your hand to the other side of the engine and go under the smooth idler pulley on the driver side, and then just use a light or your hand to check the belt path and make sure that everything went over and under all the pulleys currently and that it isn't hung up anywhere.

Reinstall the intake duct and pop on the two breather connections, then tighten it down with a flat blade screwdriver.

Thanks for watching. Visit us at 1AAuto.com for quality auto parts, fast and free shipping, and the best customer service in the industry.

Brought to you by 1AAuto.com, your source for quality replacement parts and the best service on the Internet.

Hi, I'm Don from 1A Auto. I hope this how-to video helps you out, and next time you need parts for your vehicle, think of 1AAuto.com. Thanks.

In this video, we're going to show you how to replace the idler pulley on this 2002 Chevy Suburban. It's the same part and process on these Suburbans from 2000 to 2008. The items you'll need for this are a new idler puller from 1Aauto.com, a 10 and 15 mm socket and ratchet, and a flat blade screw driver.

Start off by loosening these two hose clamps, using your flat blade screw driver. We'll just fast forward as Don does this. Just pry this clip out and then pull the hose back. You may need a flat blade screwdriver to help you pry it free. Then pull forward and lift it up and out.

Next, remove these two 10mm bolts, and we'll fast forward as Don does that. Pry the clip on this hose out of the fan shroud. Then remove these four clips around your shroud. To remove these clips, you just pry up the center and then pull the clip out. We'll fast forward as Don does this to the other three. Now, just pull that hose back and lift the shroud straight up and out.

Using a 15 mm socket and ratchet, just put it here on the tensioner. Push down on the tensioner and pull the belt up and over the idler puller. Then, carefully release then tension on the tensioner and loosen this 15 millimeter bolt. We'll just fast forward as Don loosens that. Once you loosen that enough it will just pull free with the pulley. Now, to separate the bolt from the pulley, you just need to pry off this ring and then pull the bolt out.

On the left is the old idler puller. On the right is the new one from 1A Auto. You can see they're identical, and they'll fit exactly the same. Put the bolt back into the idler pulley and then slide that nut down, and then that ring. Make sure that ring's pushed all the way back down in and that you bend those tabs back down if they got popped up when you pried it off. Then, push the pulley back into place with the bolt and just start hand tightening it. Once you've got it started you can use your ratchet to tighten it up the rest of the way. Now, push back down on the tensioner and push the belt back underneath the idler pulley. Then carefully release the tension on the tensioner and pull the ratchet free.

Now, to replace the shroud just push it back down into place. Then replace those four clips. Just push them back down into place and push the center down to lock them. Push the hose back into place and then replace those two 10 mm bolts.

Now, take this air intake hose and push it back down into place on the air intake box, and then, on to the engine. Then just tighten up those two hose clamps. Then just re-clip that hose to the air intake hose, and you're all set.

We hope this video helps you out. Brought to you by www.1AAuto.com, your source for quality replacement parts and the best service on the Internet. Please feel free to call us toll-free, 888-844-3393. We're the company that's here for you on the Internet and in person.

Brought to you by 1AAuto.com, your source for quality replacement parts and the best service on the Internet.

Hi, I'm Mike from 1A Auto. I hope this how-to video helps you out, and next time you need parts for your vehicle, think of 1AAuto.com. Thanks.

In this video, we're going to show you how to replace the idler pulley on this 2005 GMC Savana 2500. It has the 6-liter V8 engine. The tools you will need for this are a 10 millimeter and 15 millimeter socket, and ratchet, and a flat blade screwdriver.

The first thing that you want to do is remove these two 10 millimeter bolts that hold in your air intake box. Now, disconnect the harness to the air intake box, and set it aside. Then you want to use a flat blade screwdriver to just loosen up this clamp. With the clamp loosened up, you should be able to just lift and pull out your air intake box.

Now, using a flat blade screwdriver, loosen up the clamp on this part of the air intake. Once that's loosened up, you should be able to just pull that up and out. Now, you want to remove your radiator overflow bottle. Just remove the 10 millimeter bolt that holds it in place, and then it'll just lift up and pull out, and you just want to set that aside.

Now, that you can see the serpentine belt, you want to use a 15 millimeter socket and ratchet, and place it on the tensioner pulley, and you just want to push that down and it'll loosen up the belt, and you'll be able to pull it off the alternator, and then pull it off all the other pulleys. Just pull it up and out.

Your idler pulley is right here. What you want to do is take a 15 millimeter socket and ratchet and just remove the bolt in the center of it. We'll just fast forward as he does this. Now once you get that bolt removed, the idler pulley will just come right off.

Now, to install your new idler pulley, what you want to do is, you want to just put it into place with the bolt already throughout. This helps you line it up. Then, you just want to twist the bolt by hand, and then using the socket, you can twist it in a little further. Then, add the ratchet, and just tighten it the rest of the way. We'll just fast forward through this process.

Here we've drawn up a handy little belt diagram for you, and obviously the quarters are way too tight for us to be able to film the whole process of putting the belt on, but basically you want to feed it down around the crank, down there on the left side, and around the power steering pulley. Bring a loop up on top of the water pump, and then up on top of the tensioner, under the idler pulley. Then basically, just hold onto it, at the alternator, pull the tensioner and wrap around the alternator. Then release the tensioner.

We are going to try to show you the best we can. You can see he's feeding it down over the power steering, and then up over the water pump. Then he puts it up over the alternator, and down around the idler pulley. You can't really see it, but he's trying to feed it down around the crank. Then he's going to pull it up and place it on the tensioner. We can kind of see he's feeding it down around the crank right there. All that's left is getting it onto that tensioner. Now, with the belt in place you want to put that 15 millimeter socket on the tensioner. You want to push down on that, and that will allow you to align the belt on all of the pulleys. Make sure you have it in place, and then, you just want to tighten the tensioner back up.

Now, just take that part of your intake and put it back down. Put it into position and just use a flat blade screwdriver to tighten up the clamp. Now, you can reinstall your air intake box. You can see there's two holes there. They line up with the two pegs on the van. You just want to feed that down in there. Get it into position, and then, using a flat blade screwdriver, you just want to tighten up that clamp where it connects. You can see there he actually loosened up part of the intake he put in before this. He loosened it up just so he could angle it and push this part down. Then, you just want to tighten both of those clamps back up if you have to do that. We'll just fast forward here. You want to put in those 10 millimeter bolts that secure the air intake box, and reconnect the harness. Then you want to realign your radiator overflow bottle. Put it into position and replace the 10 millimeter bolt in that.

We hope this video helps you out. Brought to you by www.1AAuto.com, your source for quality replacement parts and the best service on the Internet. Please feel free to call us toll-free, 888-844-3393. We're the company that's here for you on the Internet and in person.