Replaces
Frequently bought together
Part Details
Our steering and suspension components are pre-greased and sealed for long life and do not require the extra maintenance typically required by greaseable versions.
Item Condition:
New
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WARNING: This product can expose you to chemicals including Lead and Lead Compounds, which are known to the State of California to cause cancer, and birth defects or other reproductive harm. For more information, go to www.P65Warnings.ca.gov.
Lifetime Warranty
This item is backed by our limited lifetime warranty. In the event that this item should fail due to manufacturing defects during intended use, we will replace the part free of charge. This warranty covers the cost of the part only.
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Hi, I'm Don from 1A Auto. I hope this how-to video helps you out, and next time you need parts for your vehicle, think of 1AAuto.com. Thanks.
In this video, we're going to show you how to replace a front stabilizer link on this 2003 Maxima, pretty much the same procedure for any of this era of Maxima. Stabilizer links will rattle if you're going over bumps. Then you'll notice if you're going through turns, at the same time the rattle will go away. That's usually a good sign that your stabilizer link is getting loose. What you'll need is a new pair of stabilizer links from 1A Auto. In this video, we show how to replace the right-hand or passenger side one; the left-hand is the same procedure. We always recommend you replace them in pair. You'll need jack and jack stand, and 15 and 21 millimeter sockets. You'll need a ratchet or a breaker bar and pipe for some extra leverage, and a 14-millimeter wrench. Let's start off by removing the wheel. You're going to want a 12 millimeter socket and ratchet, or a breaker bar or your tire iron.
You'll probably want to start with the wheel on the ground. Loosen the lug nuts. Then raise and secure the vehicle with jack stands. Then remove the wheel and the tire.
I'm removing the 15 millimeter nut on the lower stabilizer link. You need a breaker bar and a pipe. I've broken the nut free, but I'm going to use a 14 millimeter wrench to hold the link rod and continue. We'll speed up here as we take that nut the rest of the way off. Again, using a 15 millimeter socket on one side and holding the stabilizer link rod. It was a 14 millimeter wrench on the other. I'm removing the upper 15 millimeter nut on the stabilizer link. It's the same thing here. You see Don gets going with a little bit of extra leverage from that pipe, then uses a 14 millimeter wrench to hold on to the shaft basically between the boot and the bracket while he removes the nut the rest of the way. We've got two nuts off. Pull out the stabilizer rod.
Here's the front stabilizer link. Now, we'll speed it up as we tighten up both those nuts. You want to get them about as tight as you can with a ratchet handle. You can see that probably the hardest part of this repair is making sure you have a pipe or something to get those nuts loose initially. Once you break that free, then it's a pretty straight-forward repair, taking off two 15 millimeter nuts, taking the part out, putting a new part in from 1A Auto, and then tightening it up.
Fast-forward. Put your wheel and tire back on. Start the lug nuts by hand first, and then tighten them up preliminarily. Set your torque wrench to 100 foot pounds and tighten the lug nuts. Use a star pattern. Draw a star pattern as you tighten them. Then just recheck them.
We hope this video helps you out. Brought to you by www.1AAuto.com, your source for quality replacement parts and the best service on the Internet. Please feel free to call us toll-free, 888-844-3393. We're the company that's here for you on the Internet and in person.
