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Product Features
TRQ CV (constant velocity) drive axles are manufactured using premium raw materials designed to restore original performance. TRQ CV drive axles are new, so there is no core charge with your TRQ purchase. TRQ-designed drive axles utilize neoprene boots, moly grease, stainless steel clamps, and heat-treated ball tracks to ensure extended service life. Each TRQ axle is application-specific so each spline and thread will mate properly for a seamless fit. All products are fit and road-tested in our Massachusetts R&D facility to ensure we deliver on our promise of Trusted Reliable Quality.
CV axles are designed to transmit the power from your vehicle's drivetrain to the wheels while being able to flex and pivot to the demands of the steering and suspension systems. If your vehicle is making clicking noises at lower speeds or when making turns, it may be time to replace your CV axles with our 100% brand new assemblies.
Attention California Customers:
WARNING: This product can expose you to chemicals including Lead and Lead Compounds, which are known to the State of California to cause cancer, and birth defects or other reproductive harm. For more information, go to www.P65Warnings.ca.gov.
Lifetime Warranty
This item is backed by our limited lifetime warranty. In the event that this item should fail due to manufacturing defects during intended use, we will replace the part free of charge. This warranty covers the cost of the part only.
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Brought to you by 1AAuto.com, your source for quality replacement parts and the best service on the Internet.
Hi, I'm Don from 1A Auto. I hope this how-to video helps you out, and next time you need parts for your vehicle, think of 1AAuto.com. Thanks.
In this video we're going to show you how to replace the left hand axle on this 2003 Nissan Maxima. This is a manual transmission car, but the procedure for automatic transmission is basically the same. Although, at the end, where we refill the manual transmission case you'll want to refill your automatic transmission. That procedure is different. You'll need a new axle from 1A Auto; jack and jack stands; and 15, 21, 22, and 32 mm sockets. The 32 mm is starred there because that is one that doesn't come in many sets. You'll probably have to buy that special. You'll need a 14 mm wrench; ratchet; and you'll need a breaker bar or a pie for some extra leverage; a pry bar; catch pan; torque wrench; gear oil, GL-4 rated for the 6-speed in this car; piece of tube or hose to help you fill it; and a 10 mm Hex or Allen wrench. Again, the last few things are for refilling the manual transmission. If you have an automatic transmission, that is a different procedure. If you have an automatic transmission, the basic procedure of replacing the axle is the same, but obviously filling an automatic transmission is a little different.
I start out by removing the front tire. If you don't have air impact tools, start with the tire on the ground, loosen the lug nuts, then raise and secure the vehicle with jack stands, remove the lug nuts the rest of the way, and remove the wheel and tire.
I'm taking this cotter pin out of the axle shaft. It's basically just a procedure of straightening out the ends of the cotter pin and pulling it back through with a pair of pliers. With my 32mm socket, zap off the axle nut. Most likely you're going to need an impact gun for this. While Don's working on that, here's a little commentary here. We did try to get this nut off with a breaker bar and a piece of pipe. They are tightened at 217 foot pounds and this one did not come off using that method. Most likely you're going to have to use an impact wrench. I make sure that the axle isn't seized inside the hub so I just push it through and it's pushing through with no problem. If you find any resistance, you can screw your nut back on just a little bit and give it a couple of whacks with a hammer and that should loosen it up.
I'm going to remove the lower stabilizer link nut. Use a 15mm wrench, and counter hold the opposite side with a 14mm wrench. On this side you put the wrench right in between the boot here and the control arm. You can see Don's got that bolt loosened up and fast forward here as he removes it. I got the nut off and I'm just going to push the stabilizer rod out of the lower control arm.
I'm removing these four front lower control arm bolts. They're 22mm. Then, I'll proceed to the back and remove these two 22mm bolts. Use a breaker bar and pipe for extra leverage. As you can see, it takes quite a bit of leverage. You'll need your ratchet and a pipe or your breaker bar and a pipe if you have to use hand tools. You can see here, just to make the video go a little quicker and make things go quicker we just go over to the impact wrench and pull the rest of them out. I got the control arm down, nut off, and I'm going to pull the joint and push it through and out the front. I've got a drain pan down underneath where I'm going to pop the axle out of the transmission because some fluid could come out. Then, I'm going to put a pry bar in between the transmission case and the axle, and pry, and it pops right out.
For reinstallation, I'm just putting it back into place and turning it a little bit and twisting it to find the spot. With it seated all the way in, put the other side into the wheel hub and then you can push it in from the outside.
I'm installing the bolts for the lower control arm. I'm torquing these six other, lower control arm bolts that go to the chassis to 120 foot pounds.
Use a little fast forward here as we put the stabilizer back in place. Just put it back into the control arm and use the 14mm wrench to hold the shaft as you tighten it up and get it nice and tight. Install the center hub nut and tighten it preliminarily. I've got Mike in the car holding the brake pedal down while we torque to 217 foot pounds. I'm putting the cotter pin back in.
I'm going to check the fluid level in the manual transmission and we're going to locate the filler and it's right up here. It's a 10 mm Allen and I'm going to use a 3/8 inch drive ratchet and break it free. I'm using a hose to fill the transmission back up with the transmission fluid. Once you see the drips coming out you'll know it's to the bottom of the filler plug level and it's full.
Make sure you put your transmission fill plug back in and then you can put your wheel and tire back on. Hand thread the lug nuts first, tighten them preliminarily, and then torque them to 100 foot pounds. Then make sure you get your vehicle aligned.
We hope this video helps you out. Brought to you by www.1AAuto.com, your source for quality replacement parts and the best service on the Internet. Please feel free to call us toll-free, 888-844-3393. We're the company that's here for you on the Internet and in person.
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Brought to you by 1AAuto.com, your source for quality replacement parts and the best service on the Internet.
Hi, I'm Don from 1A Auto. I hope this how-to video helps you out, and the next time you need a part for your vehicle, think of 1AAuto.com. Thanks.
In this video, we're going to show you how to replace the right hand axle on this 2003 Nissan Maxima. The procedure's pretty much the same for any of this era Maxima, as well as the infinity I30. In the video we do use a lift, it helps us get better angles to film. It's a pretty tough repair if you're doing it with jack and jack stands in your driveway, but it can be done once you know how to do it. It's half the battle. You'll need new axle from 1A Auto, jack and jack stands, 12mm, 15mm, 22mm, and 32mm sockets, 32mm is probably something you'll have to buy special, ratchet and pipe for some extra leverage some of these bolts as you'll see are very tight, 14mm wrench, pry bar, hammer, catch pan, torque wrench, and some gear lube either GL4 rated if it's a manual transmission or ATF if you have an automatic transmission.
Start off by removing the wheel. You're going to want a 22mm socket and ratchet or breaker bar, or your tire iron. You'll probably want to start with the wheel on the ground, loosen the lug nuts, then raise and secure the vehicle with jack stands. Then remove the wheel and the tire.
Removing the cotter pin from the end of the axle. Here we use a 32mm socket and an impact wrench. These bolts, the center bolts, are put on here with 217 foot-pounds of torque, so you can try a breaker and a pipe, but chances are on these cars you're going to need an impact wrench to get this bolt off. Now, let's just make sure that there's play in this, and it's pushing through the hub no problem. If you find that it's stuck, you can just screw the nut back on a little bit, give it a couple of raps, and she'll loosen up no problem. I'm using the 32mm impact socket and impact gun. If you don't have these air tools you can have somebody sit in the car and apply pressure to the brake while you use the breaker bar.
I'm removing the 15mm nut on the lower stabilizer link. You'll need a breaker bar and a pipe. Get the nut free. I've broken the nut free, but I'm going to use a 14mm wrench to hold the link rod and continue. We'll just speed up here. Just to summarize, on the one side there's the 15mm nut. Don broke that free first, then on the back side of the bracket where the stabilizer link bolts into, you can fit in a 14mm wrench between the boot and the control arm, hold the stabilizer link bar or rod, and then remove the nut the rest of the way. Here. Don just uses a impact just to speed things up.
Removing the lower control arm, I'm going to start with the two 22mm bolts at the rear. Use my pipe threads for leverage. Okay, and we'll speed up and you can see, you can either use a ratchet and pipe or breaker bar and pipe for extra leverage. Those bolts are on there tight. He removes the two bolts that hold the bracket in the back, and then we move on and remove the other four bolts that hold the bar to front of the control arm. Just using an impact wrench just to save a little time. That's it, the axle's out.
The bracket that holds that axle in place has three 12mm bolts. On the bottom rear I'm going to use a regular wrench and work that free. The other two are located up on top and towards the engine. I'm going to use a one foot extension with a 12mm socket on it to get to those. I put the extension between the lower cross member and right along the axle as it's coming out of the transmission.
Speed up here again. Unfortunately, it's really hard to film. I couldn't really get the camera up in there in a way to show you those bolts, but there are three 12mm bolts that hold the axle to the bracket and we remove those. We're removing the axle from the support on the engine side and it's requiring a bit of hitting and prying to separate the two.
Okay, so we put a pry bar up in there, and there's a couple ears you can get the pry bar on. Give it some good hits with the hammer from that angle. Here we're using a hammer contacting the CV itself just to kind of get some impact on it, get it to break free and then pulling out the pry bar again. Here, just prying it right between the housing and the engine bracket and it finally comes free, even though I get in the picture and kind of lift it up, that really doesn't do anything. Have a catch pan ready and handy because we're going to lose a little fluid out when the seal separates. Once you've got the shaft separated, you can pull it out.
Okay, I'm reinstalling the right axle shaft. We put some anti-seize lubricant on the portion where it meets up to its housing. Just to make it slide in a little easier. Once you get it to the transmission, you can guide it in, and then you're going to want to line up your bolt holes from your axle shaft to the housing. With the axle in place, I'm going to put the shield back on the back side and start with my bolts. We'll speed up here as Don's putting those bolts back in.
What he found is to use a hammer, kind of press that axle into the housing and tap it with the butt end of a hammer. It helps you get the holes lined up correctly. Then put those 12mm bolts, and yes, we're up on a lift, so it does make angles easier. This is something you can do in your driveway, but it's going to be little more difficult. You're definitely going to want to have a friend or a helper handing you with tools and things like that so you don't have to slide in and out.
Lastly, when you put these bolts in you want to tighten them evenly, get one snug or get all three of them in first snug up one, snug up the other one, and then just go around and tighten them so that the bracket is sucked into the housing in a uniform and even manner. Now it's going to slide the splined end into the back hub, and we put a little grease just to help get it in there smoothly.
Just align, rotate the rotor until you get an alignment, and push right there. I'm going to put the rear end of the control arm back in. I'm going to speed it up here. Put all the six bolts in. You can try and align it as best you can, back to where it was just by looking at the marks in the alignment bracket, but you're definitely going to want to take your vehicle and have it aligned after this. Then you want to torque all six of these bolts to 120 foot-pounds.
Here, just fast-forwarding through, we're putting that stabilizer link back on, put it back through the control arm. 15mm nut, and hold the stabilizer shaft with a 14mm wrench. Get that nice and tight. Put the nut back on these. With a person in the car holding the brakes, torque that hub nut to 217 foot-pounds. I'm inserting the cotter pin back through this drive shaft, bending the gears back.
I'm going to check the fluid level in the manual transmission, and we're going to locate the filler and it's right up here. It's a 10mm Allen, and I'm going to use a 3/8" drive ratchet and break it free. I'm using a hose to fill the transmission back up with the transmission fluid. Obviously, this fill procedure's a little different if you have an automatic transmission. Once you see the drips coming out you'll know that it's to the bottom of the filler plug level and it's full.
Set your torque wrench to 100 foot-pounds and tighten the lug nuts. Use a star pattern, draw a star pattern as you tighten them, and then just re-check them.
We hope this video helps you out. Brought to you by www.1AAuto.com, your source for quality replacement parts and the best service on the Internet. Please feel free to call us toll-free, 888-844-3393. We're the company that's here for you on the Internet and in person.
CSA82193
