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About TRQ:
TRQ is a trusted brand dedicated to making every repair a success story by combining premium parts with easy installation. Each TRQ part is engineered by a team of automotive experts to meet or exceed OEM standards, delivering enhanced performance and maximum longevity. With rigorous in-house testing, the brand ensures superior fit and function across every product line. TRQ also provides customers with best-in-class, step-by-step installation videos—so you can complete repairs with confidence, whether you're a first-time DIYer or an industry professional.
Product Features
TRQ CV (constant velocity) drive axles are manufactured using premium raw materials designed to restore original performance. TRQ CV drive axles are new, so there is no core charge with your TRQ purchase. TRQ-designed drive axles utilize neoprene boots, moly grease, stainless steel clamps, and heat-treated ball tracks to ensure extended service life. Each TRQ axle is application-specific so each spline and thread will mate properly for a seamless fit. All products are fit and road-tested in our Massachusetts R&D facility to ensure we deliver on our promise of Trusted Reliable Quality.
CV axles are designed to transmit the power from your vehicle's drivetrain to the wheels while being able to flex and pivot to the demands of the steering and suspension systems. If your vehicle is making clicking noises at lower speeds or when making turns, it may be time to replace your CV axles with our 100% brand new assemblies.
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WARNING: This product can expose you to chemicals including Lead and Lead Compounds, which are known to the State of California to cause cancer, and birth defects or other reproductive harm. For more information, go to www.P65Warnings.ca.gov.
Lifetime Warranty
This item is backed by our limited lifetime warranty. In the event that this item should fail due to manufacturing defects during intended use, we will replace the part free of charge. This warranty covers the cost of the part only.
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Brought to you by 1AAuto.com, your source for quality replacement parts and the best service on the Internet.
Hi, I'm Mike Green. I'm one of the owners of 1A Auto. I want to help you save time and money repairing or maintaining your vehicle. I'm going to use my 20-plus years experience restoring and repairing cars and trucks like this to show you the correct way to install parts from 1AAuto.com. The right parts installed correctly: that's going to save you time and money. Thank you and enjoy the video.
In this video, we're going to show you how to remove a rear axle on this 2004 Chevy Trailblazer. This is pretty indicative of any Chevy or GM product that has a C-Clip rear axle, and when I say C-Clip, you'll see what I mean in the video. You'll need various metric and standard sockets or wrenches, ranging in size from 5/16's inch to 19 millimeters with the ratchets and the extensions, a breaker bar or a pipe for leverage for some of those bolts that are tighter than others, catch pin, jack and jack stands, flat blade screwdriver and two M10 by 7 centimeter bolts, as well as a 3/8's drive ratchet with an extension.
For the rear tire, the lug nuts are 19 millimeters. If you don't have air tools, you want to start with the vehicle on the ground, loosen the lug nuts, raise it, support it with jack stands, and then remove the lug nuts. We'll use some fast forward as we remove the rest of the lug nuts and the wheel.
We want to use a screwdriver. What I'm doing is pulling out on the caliper. That just helps to get it off the brake pads. You remove two bolts, and then remove the caliper. On this vehicle, those are 14 millimeter bolts. Pull up on the caliper, put it up and out of your way, and then you can just pry out the brake pads. You actually can skip this step. You can just pull the bracket off. Then you want the pad bracket, two 18 millimeter bolts on this vehicle. I'm going to use a piece of pipe, along with my ratchet, and the pipe actually just gives you some extra leverage. Then on the lower bolt on this vehicle, it has a clearance issue, so I'm going to put on my 18 millimeter wrench. Then I'm going to hook another 17 millimeter wrench on to it and pull down. Then, finish off taking those bolts out. Now, the bracket comes off, and then hopefully, your disc will just pull off. On this vehicle, it doesn't, but the vehicle has two threaded holes, so you insert some M10 metric bolts and use your wrench. You tighten those bolts up, which forces the disc off of the hub.
Now, you want to turn your drive shaft with your vehicle in neutral until you have a good angle at that bolt right there. Using a 5/16 inch socket, remove this bolt. As you remove this bolt, you want to hold this pin up here, pull that bolt out, and let that slowly slide down. That will allow you to actually push your axle in, which then allows you to pull out a C-clamp. It should just fall down here. I need a magnet. That C-clamp comes out, which now allows you to pull out slowly your axle.
Now, put the axle back in. You want to lift up on it so it doesn't drag against your seal. You just move it around a little bit, push it in, just has to find its way on the inside. Here, what you're really hoping is nothing has moved, so we're going to take our C-clamp, and the side that has a groove near the center is the one you want to put towards the center. You just put that on to the axle that's pushing out through right there. Then you can actually push the axle back by hand. Make sure you have this shaft nice and clean. Put it up in with the hole at the bottom. This is where you're hoping that these gears didn't move around at all. It would appear that they did just a little bit. I'm just going to line it up with my finger. It goes in, push this in, start it into place, and your axle's locked back in place. As that's going in, I'm just going to hit it with a little dab of Loctite. Being greasy and stuff, it's not going to stick that well, but that's okay. You want to tighten this up probably to about 8 to 10 foot pounds, which is tight with this little wrench. That's good.
Now we're going to get back into cleaning everything up and putting it back together, so I just wipe down the inside as much as I can, get as much dirt and everything out of there as possible. Now clean up and wipe down your rear end cover, and there's a little rectangle there that's the magnet. Make sure you get that wiped off really well. Right there displaying it, you can see I clean it up better. On this one, you do reuse your gasket, and I put just a little bit of sealant on the cover just to help with some of the crustiness from the rust. Now, we'll put our cover up there, start it with a couple bolts, then start all the bolts by hand, and then tighten them preliminarily with a wrench after that. Now, we skip forward. You want to torque these bolts to about 12 foot pounds. It's not very much, but it's enough to seal it. You don't want to over-torque it, because you'll get leaks because you warp your differential cover. About 12 foot pounds, I tighten them using an opposite pattern, and then I just go around one by one and just make sure they're all tight.
Now, we're going to refill the rear end. There's a plug right on the passenger side. Use a 3/8's ratchet with an extension, remove that plug, and then fill it with 80w-90 gear oil. I use a little tube; it helps get the bottle in the position so that you can fill it easier. Once you've filled it and the fluid starts dripping down, put your plug back in, tighten it up. You don't have to tighten it incredibly tight, but get it nice and snug, and then wipe down all the grease off of the rear end so you can check for leaks later.
Now, I'm going to put the brakes back together. If you want to see this in regular speed, just check out our other videos for the Trailblazer rear brake installation. You can see I've got both a new backing plate and new brakes on there. If you want to see those, just check out our other videos on the whole process for that. We'll get through that.
Very important, you've had your brakes apart, you obviously want to torque your lug nuts on there properly. You want to pump your brakes afterwards, make sure that you get your brakes reset and make sure that they're working properly before you test drive the vehicle. Torque the lug nuts to between 100 and 120 foot-pounds. I use a crossing star type pattern, and then you can put your cap back on. Always make sure after you've had your brakes apart, that you pump the pedal a bunch of times, work the pressure back up, and make sure you work the brake caliper pistons back into place.
We hope this video helps you out. Brought to you by www.1AAuto.com, your source for quality replacement parts and the best service on the Internet. Please feel free to call us toll-free, 888-844-3393. We're the company that's here for you on the Internet and in person.
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Brought to you by 1AAuto.com, your source for quality replacement parts and the best service on the Internet.
Hi, I'm Mike from 1A Auto. I hope this how-to video helps you out, and next time you need parts for your vehicle, think of 1AAuto.com. Thanks.
In this video, we're going to show you how to replace the front CV axle shaft on this 2003 GMC Envoy XL. We show you on the passenger's side, but the driver's side is a similar procedure. The items you'll need for this include a new front axle from 1AAuto.com, 10mm, 15mm, 17mm, 18mm, and 19mm socket and ratchet, a piece of pipe for extra leverage, a 15mm and 18mm wrench, flat blade screwdriver, torque wrench, hammer, jack and jack stands, and a pry bar.
Start off by prying off your hub cap. Then just loosen up this 35mm nut. If you don't have the benefit of air tools, you'll want to take this nut off all the way at this point. Now, you can loosen your lug nuts as well. We'll just fast-forward as Mike does this. Once you've loosened them, just jack the vehicle up and then remove the lug nuts the rest of the way. Now the wheel will pull off.
The next few clips, we remove the brakes. You don't have to do this, but in my opinion it does make it easier to see back in there and get the axle out. There are two 17mm bolts that you remove to remove the caliper, hold the caliper slides with an 18mm wrench, and then pry the caliper up and off. You'll want to secure it somewhere with wire ties so that you don't stress the brake line.
Then you can remove your brake pads. Two 18mm bolts hold the caliper bracket in place. Again, you don't really have to do this, but it just helps to be able to see back in there with the rotor out of the way. Remove the two 18mm bolts using a pipe for some extra leverage, and do this slowly and smoothly so you don't break any knuckles or anything like that. The caliper bracket comes up and off. Then you can remove your caliper either by using a hammer, careful not to damage the rotor at all. If you have to hammer more than just a medium taps, then you'd want to use a couple of M12 bolts. They thread it into the holes in the rotor and help to press the rotor off.
Remove the center hub nut the rest of the way if you haven't already. Using a 15mm socket and ratchet and a 15mm wrench, just remove this bolt. Now, using a hammer, just hit the upper control arm off the ball joint. Now, just pry open this clip and pull the harness free. You want to secure your caliper just somewhere out of the way. We just wire-tie it right here onto the backing plate.
Now, you want to remove these two 10mm bolts. We'll fast-forward as Mike does that. Now, just lift up on the upper control arm and pull this back. Make sure that the axle is loosened from the hub. Okay, to get your axle out, you need to use a pry bar or some other long item. You want to put it up in, and put it on the back of the axle right where it connects to the transmission or the axle I should say. Make sure you're hitting the middle and it comes right out. If you want to do the driver's side, you'll need to remove these four 15mm bolts to pull this panel down in order to access it.
Pull your axle the rest of the way out of the differential. Move stuff around a little bit and then get it going up. I'm just going to angle it up a little bit and get it going up, in, and remove it from the hub. Careful of all your ABS wires and hoses and stuff, eventually it comes out. Up top is the old axle; below it is the new one from 1A Auto. You can see they're identical, and they'll fit exactly the same.
Move the new axle up and in. Again, be careful of all your wires. I just feed it right into the hub. Pull it, move, just maneuver a little bit, and get all the way into your hub. Then pull on it and feed it into the axle. Careful with the seal. You want to put the steering knuckle back up in place as you go so you don't over extend the CB. I'm just going to put that in place, push your axle right in, and make sure it's locked.
Now replace your brake line bracket and the 10mm bolts that hold it into place. You just want to use the upper control arm to hold the wheel knuckle in place while you're doing this. Re-clip this harness. Now hammer your upper control arm back down into the ball joint. Replace the bolt and the nut and tighten them up. You want to tighten and then torque this nut and bolt combination to 55 to 60 foot-pounds.
You want to make sure that these holes line up in between the two holes that are on the hub. Then you just slide your rotor back into place and replace a lug nut to hold it into place. You want to check these slides on your caliper bracket and make sure they're greased up. If they're not, just apply some brake grease to them. Then fit the bracket into place and then just start twisting in your bolts by hand and then tighten them up. Torque these two bolts to 110 foot pounds. Torque each of these to 110 foot pounds. Then just replace your brake pads and if there's no grease on the ends, just apply some brake grease.
Now, push your caliper back down into place and replace those two 17mm bolts. We'll fast-forward as Mike does that and tightens those up. Now torque each of those to 40 foot-pounds. Replace the hub nut. Remove the lug nut that you put on there to hold the rotor in place, and then put your wheel in place. Then replace each of the lug nuts and tighten them preliminarily. Now torque each of these to 100 foot-pounds in a crossing pattern. Then torque the hub nut to 103 foot-pounds. Then replace your hub cap.
After you've done any work on the brakes, you want to just pump the brake pedal until it firms up. Then you want to do a stopping test from five miles per hour and then 10 miles per hour.
We hope this video helps you out. Brought to you by www.1AAuto.com, your source for quality replacement parts and the best service on the Internet. Please feel free to call us toll-free, 888-844-3393. We're the company that's here for you on the Internet and in person.
CSA82129
