Replaces
Frequently bought together
Part Details
About TRQ:
TRQ is a trusted brand dedicated to making every repair a success story by combining premium parts with easy installation. Each TRQ part is engineered by a team of automotive experts to meet or exceed OEM standards, delivering enhanced performance and maximum longevity. With rigorous in-house testing, the brand ensures superior fit and function across every product line. TRQ also provides customers with best-in-class, step-by-step installation videos—so you can complete repairs with confidence, whether you're a first-time DIYer or an industry professional.
Product Features
TRQ CV (constant velocity) drive axles are manufactured using premium raw materials designed to restore original performance. TRQ CV drive axles are new, so there is no core charge with your TRQ purchase. TRQ-designed drive axles utilize neoprene boots, moly grease, stainless steel clamps, and heat-treated ball tracks to ensure extended service life. Each TRQ axle is application-specific so each spline and thread will mate properly for a seamless fit. All products are fit and road-tested in our Massachusetts R&D facility to ensure we deliver on our promise of Trusted Reliable Quality.
CV axles are designed to transmit the power from your vehicle's drivetrain to the wheels while being able to flex and pivot to the demands of the steering and suspension systems. If your vehicle is making clicking noises at lower speeds or when making turns, it may be time to replace your CV axles with our 100% brand new assemblies.
Attention California Customers:
WARNING: This product can expose you to chemicals including Lead and Lead Compounds, which are known to the State of California to cause cancer, and birth defects or other reproductive harm. For more information, go to www.P65Warnings.ca.gov.
Lifetime Warranty
This item is backed by our limited lifetime warranty. In the event that this item should fail due to manufacturing defects during intended use, we will replace the part free of charge. This warranty covers the cost of the part only.
FREE Shipping is standard on orders shipped to the lower 48 States (Contiguous United States). Standard shipping charges apply to Hawaii and Alaska.
Shipping is not available to a P.O. Box, APO/FPO/DPO addresses, US Territories, or Canada for this item.
Expedited is available on checkout to the United States, excluding Alaska, Hawaii.
Final shipping costs are available at checkout.
Created on:
Tools used
Brought to you by 1AAuto.com, your source for quality replacement parts and the best service on the Internet.
Hi, I'm Mike from 1A Auto. I hope this how-to video helps you out, and next time you need parts for your vehicle, think of 1AAuto.com. Thanks!
In this video, we're going to show you how to replace a front CV axle shaft on this 2003 Mercury Mountaineer. We'll show you on the passenger side, but the driver side is the same procedure. The items you'll need include a new front CV axle shaft from 1AAuto.com, 16mm, 18mm, 19mm, and 30mm socket and ratchet, a piece of pipe for extra leverage, jack and jack stands, torque wrench, and a pry bar.
Remove the center cap using a screwdriver. Then the hub nut is a 30mm nut, and you can use a ratchet with a pipe. If you have a breaker bar, something with more leverage, you can do that. You basically want to remove the nut the whole way at this point. We'll just fast-forward as Mike removes those 19mm lug nuts. If you don't have air-powered tools, you want to loosen them while the vehicle's on the ground, raise the vehicle, and remove them the rest of the way. Now you can pull the wheel free.
Now remove this 18mm nut. We'll fast-forward as Mike does that, and you can see he's using a piece of pipe for some extra leverage. Once you remove that nut, just put it back on a few threads. Then take a hammer and hammer your wheel knuckle. You want to do this until it breaks free and slides down by itself.
On the back of your axle here, just place a pry bar. Just hammer the axle out. Now remove that 18mm nut and pull your wheel knuckle forward. You want to make sure that the axles free, so that it won't get damaged. Remove the stabilizer link. We're just showing you the driver's side. You use 15mm socket and ratchet on top and the 16mm socket and ratchet on the bottom. Remove that top nut. Take the link bolt out, and remove the link. That's if everything works out. On the side we're working on its broken, so we use some penetrating oil.
One thing you do is - this is pretty typical - it breaks off up top here, you saw where you just filled it up with penetrating oil, and then we're just kind of messing around with it. We lock some locking pliers onto it. Now we've got that penetrating oil really helped the bolt start up. We've basically broken the plastic here. Now this plastic tube will slide off. We're just going to use a hammer and chisel to remove the rest of the plastic, this of course is worst case scenario. You just want to remove the plastic then use some locking pliers. Then just remove the nut on the bottom, or at least loosen it up as much as you can. Then just hammer this down and put. Turn your wheel. Then come back here and just pull your axle out. Then slide it back, and pull it out of the hub. Then push it down and out of the control arm.
To reinstall the axle, feed it kind of off to the side of the differential case, and then in. Once you've got it into the hub, just replace that hub nut. Just kind of tighten it up preliminarily. Then take the back end of the axle, and feed it back into place. You just want to keep pushing and moving it up and down, and pushing back until it goes all the way back into place.
Push the stud back into the wheel knuckle. Then replace that 19mm nut. Make sure your axle's pushed all the way back in. It should just feed right back into place. Then tighten up that 19mm nut. Then just torque that nut to 90 ft lbs.
Next, I'm going to reinstall the sway bar link, and you want to jack up the other side just slightly. Now replace your sway bar link. The other it should go in is washer, bushing, control arm. Then bushing, washer, the tube. Then another washer, then the bushing, then your sway bar. Then another bushing, another washer, then the nut. You want to just tighten that nut preliminarily, then release the jack.
To tighten these up, you want to have the car, I've got the jack stands supporting the control arm, and the car pretty much level, so it's at its ride position. Then you just want to tighten this up until all of these bushings are just squeezed down, and they're contacting the washer as well.
Replace your wheel. Then replace all the lug nuts and tighten them preliminarily. Then you'd want to lower the vehicle and tighten them the rest of the way. Then torque each of these in a crossing pattern, to 100 foot-pounds. Now torque that hub nut to 180 foot-pounds. Now replace your hub cap. Just line it up and hit it back into place.
We hope this video helps you out. Brought to you by www.1AAuto.com, your source for quality replacement parts and the best service on the Internet. Please feel free to call us toll-free, 888-844-3393. We're the company that's here for you on the Internet and in person.
Tools used
Hi, I'm Mike from 1A Auto. We're dedicated to delivering quality auto parts, expert customer service, fast and free shipping, all backed by our 100% satisfaction guarantee. Visit us at 1AAuto.com, your trusted source for quality auto parts.
In this video, we're going to be working with our 2001 Ford Ranger four wheel drive. We're going to show you how to remove and replace your front CV or drive axle assembly. If you like this video, please click Subscribe. We have a ton more information on this truck as well as many other makes and models, and if you need this part for you vehicle, you can follow the link down in the description over to 1aauto.com. Here are the items you'll need for this repair.
Using a taped flat-blade screwdriver, locate the relief cuts in the hub cap. Stick the screwdriver in, and pry out to release it from the wheel. Before removing your wheel and tire or jacking up the vehicle, loosen your 32mm axle nut with the socket and breaker bar. This particular truck has a wheel lock on it, so we'll need the wheel lock key in order to remove it. Otherwise, the rest of the nuts come off with a 19mm socket and breaker bar. Simply crack them loose for now, and then raise and support your vehicle and remove the lug nuts the rest of the way. Remove the wheel from the vehicle.
Remove the two 15mm bolts securing the caliper bracket to the spindle. Be sure to crack both of these loose before removing either one fully. Using a bungee cord, mechanic’s wire, or zip tie, secure the entire caliper bracket and assembly up out of your way. Remove your rotor.
Finish removing your 32mm axle nut with the socket and breaker bar. You may need a pry bar to keep the hub from turning while you remove the nut. Tap the end of the axle with a hammer to release it from the splines on the wheel hub. We'll use a 15mm socket ratchet and wrench to remove the pinch bolt for the upper control arm. Once you've removed the hardware, we'll tap the face of the spindle with a hammer to release the joint. Using a pickle fork or a ball joint separator here will damage our boot and ruin this upper control arm.
You may want to pop a few connections off on the ABS harness just to give yourself a little more room to swing that spindle out without damaging anything. Remove the outboard CV axle from the hub. Where the inboard CV joint meets the axle, we'll place a pry bar on both sides. Make sure you pry out evenly to release the axle. Remove the axle from the vehicle.
Here we have our old part that we removed from our vehicle and our new part from 1AAuto.com. As you can see, these parts are identical, being the same length with the same joints. We have the same female splines on the axle end, the same splines and threads on the hub end. It even comes with a new axle nut to make sure that we can torque this down and get it on there, nice and secure. If your vehicle needs a new CV axle, this new part from 1A Auto is going to go in direct fit just like your original equipment and fix you up right.
Reinstall your CV axle into the vehicle. Line up the splines. You may have to give it a good tap to get those to engage over the snap ring. Reinstall the splines into the hub and lay your spindle back up and into the upper control arm. Reinstall the pinch bolt and the nut. Tighten up the 15 mm pinch bolt with a socket ratchet and wrench, and torque to 41 foot-pounds. Reconnect your harness and start your new axle nut on by hand.
Reinstall your rotor. One trick I like to use is taking an old axle nut and placing it over one of the wheel studs, putting a lug nut on hand tight. This keeps the rotor upright while we install our caliper carrier and makes it that much easier. Unhang your caliper from whatever it is you hung it from. Reinstall all of it over the rotor. Reinstall your two 15 millimeter bolts. Tighten down the hardware with a socket and ratchet. Torque the bolts to 85 foot-pounds. Remove the lug nut and axle nut from your rotor.
Reinstall your wheel and tire. Start your lug nuts by hand. Torque the lug nuts to 100 foot-pounds in a cross pattern.
Tighten the axle nuts socket back on with your 32 mm socket and a breaker bar. Once you've got it tight, torque the axle nut to 162 foot-pounds. Reinstall your center cap, and you're good to go.
Thanks for watching. Visit us at 1AAuto.com for quality auto parts, fast and free shipping, and the best customer service in the industry.
CSA82299
