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Returns: Parts with electrical components cannot be returned once installed.
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WARNING: This product can expose you to chemicals including Lead and Lead Compounds, which are known to the State of California to cause cancer, and birth defects or other reproductive harm. For more information, go to www.P65Warnings.ca.gov.
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This item is backed by our limited lifetime warranty. In the event that this item should fail due to manufacturing defects during intended use, we will replace the part free of charge. This warranty covers the cost of the part only.
Returns: Parts with electrical components cannot be returned once installed.
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Brought to you by 1AAuto.com, your source for quality replacement parts and the best service on the Internet.
Hi, I'm Mike from 1A Auto. I hope this how-to video helps you out, and next time you need parts for your vehicle, think of 1AAuto.com. Thanks.
In this video, we're going to change the spark plugs on this 1996 Tahoe with a 5.7 liter Vortec motor, same engine and same procedure for any Chevy or GMC pickup, Tahoe, Suburban or Yukon with this body style. We don't show you every plug. We show you the general best practice that we have, as well as really the number three plug is probably the hardest one. You need a couple of special tools. The tools you'll need are a ratchet, a 5/8 inch spark plug socket, as well as a 5/8 inch regular socket. You'll need a 6 inch and 12 inch extension, and you'll also need a flexible joint.
I'm looking at the driver's side. I've got the vehicle lifted up so that the tire is as far down as possible. Actually, if you take a pair of needle-nosed pliers and carefully pull out these clips, you'll be able to see this is your best shot right at all the spark plugs. You can get these from up top as well, but this is your straightest and really your easiest shot. Just to further explain here, on these trucks you can fairly easily go from the top and reach all your spark plugs, but quite honestly, I find it a whole lot easier on my back just to jack up the truck a little bit so that the wheel is all the way down in its travel. Then pull out these flaps on the side and then you have a pretty straight shot from the inner finder and I always find it easier to do something kneeling down rather than trying to bend over or standing on a stool over the fenders and front end and stuff. That usually makes my back spasm, so I find it a whole lot easier to do it going in from this way.
Now, obviously, to replace a plug, reach in there, be careful if your engine is warm. It's better to do this with the engine cold. I'm just reaching in and trying to turn the boot on the plug a little bit and pull at the same time. That comes off. Now you want to use a 5/8 inch plug socket. This is a 12 inch extension. It will get you right on a plug. It keeps your hands out here on the inner fender. Once you loosen them, they should come out pretty easily. Now, I'll I just speed it up here as I remove that. That first one is a pretty easy one.
Most of the time on your truck, you're going to have a sticker on this, and you're can see right there it says spark plug gap 0.060.We take our new plug, it's our 0.060. I can tell it's pretty closed here. I'll use this to open up the gap a little bit. I'll open it up there until it slides through there with a little bit of friction, just like that.
Now, fast forward as we load the plug up into our plug socket and then start it out by hand first. You always want to make sure that the plug starts in and turns easily by hand before you put a wrench on it. Then the plug should be torqued to 20 foot-pounds. Actually you can see the best strategy for this next one is just a regular 5/8 inch, deep socket because, the spark plug kind of angles down right at the steering shaft and that heat shield gets in your way. The next plug is the number three plug. That's the second one from the front on the drivers side. It's basically the toughest. What you want to do, is use your regular spark plug socket on there. You want to use a regular 5/8 inch socket. Basically what I'm doing here is I'm putting the socket onto the spark plug first. There you can see the socket's on the spark plug. Then what I'm going to do is put a universal or a flexible joint on the end of my extension and then get that in there. That is really the best way to get to that spark plug. After that, the number five, which is the third one from the front, is pretty much the same or actually it's pretty straight forward. When you get to the rear plugs on each side, you just want to use a shorter extension, probably a six inch extension because the inner wheel well's in the way. You can see on the passenger side it's just even easier. There's less obstruction without the steering shaft and you can go right in there.
We hope this video helps you out. Brought to you by www.1AAuto.com, your source for quality replacement parts and the best service on the Internet. Please feel free to call us toll-free, 888-844-3393. We're the company that's here for you on the Internet and in person.
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Hi, I'm Mike from 1A Auto. We've been selling auto parts for over 30 years. We're dedicated to delivering quality auto parts, expert customer service, fast and free shipping, all backed by our 100% satisfaction guarantee. Visit us at 1AAuto.com, your trusted source for quality auto parts.
In this video, we're going to be working with our 1996 GMC Sierra K1500 with the 5.7 liter V8. We're going to be showing you how to remove and replace your vehicles ignition control module. If you like this video please click subscribe. We have a ton more information on this and many other vehicles. And, if you need this part for your truck, you can follow the link down in the description over to 1AAuto.com. Here are the items you'll need for this repair.
Lift up on the latches and remove the upper portion of your air box. Unplug the intake air temp and mass airflow sensors. Pop the breather line off and undo the thumbscrew. Rock the upper part of the intake forward and remove it from the vehicle.
Disconnect the connector on the ignition control module, and remove the two 5.5mm screws with a 5.5mm socket and ratchet. Remove the control module, and the heat sink from the vehicle.
Here we have our old ignition control module that we removed from our vehicle, and our new part from 1AAuto.com. As you can see these parts are exactly the same. They have the same connector and the same body of the sensor with the same two bolt mounting location. Now, what happens to these, is they tend to get hot and fail, which can create a rough running condition, or prevent your vehicle from starting at all, which is actually what this little tube of grease is included for. You apply this to the metal surface on the back of the ignition control module, before mounting it to the heat sink and reinstalling it. It helps to dissipate that heat from the module, and prevent it from failing. If your old module has gone bad, this new part from 1A Auto is going to in direct fit, just like your original equipment, and fix you up right.
Apply the grease included with your sensor to the metal backing. Go ahead and use all of it: the more the better. It's going to help keep that heat away from the module and keep it lasting longer and performing correctly. Spread the grease around on the back of the sensor. Make sure you coat all of the metal surface evenly.
Place the ignition control module back onto your heat sink and, start one of your 5.5mm screws. Place it back onto the bracket and start both screws by hand before tightening either one down fully. Tighten down the bolts with a 5.5mm socket and ratchet. Reconnect the electrical connector.
Lift up on the latches and remove the upper portion of your air box. Unplug the intake air temp and mass airflow sensors. Pop the breather line off and undo the thumbscrew. Rock the upper part of the intake forward and remove it from the vehicle.
Thanks for watching. Visit us at 1AAuto.com for quality auto parts, fast and free shipping, and the best customer service in the industry.
ICA60042
The paste came with it... didn't need any more.
I did have to drill out the existing holes for the existing screws but not a big deal. Works Great!
Yes, thank you for the follow up. They have been installed and the vehicle is back to its cheerful self.
This does not include mounting bolts.
