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Part Details
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About TRQ:
TRQ is a trusted brand dedicated to making every repair a success story by combining premium parts with easy installation. Each TRQ part is engineered by a team of automotive experts to meet or exceed OEM standards, delivering enhanced performance and maximum longevity. With rigorous in-house testing, the brand ensures superior fit and function across every product line. TRQ also provides customers with best-in-class, step-by-step installation videos—so you can complete repairs with confidence, whether you're a first-time DIYer or an industry professional.
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WARNING: This product can expose you to chemicals including Lead and Lead Compounds, which are known to the State of California to cause cancer, and birth defects or other reproductive harm. For more information, go to www.P65Warnings.ca.gov.
Lifetime Warranty
This item is backed by our limited lifetime warranty. In the event that this item should fail due to manufacturing defects during intended use, we will replace the part free of charge. This warranty covers the cost of the part only.
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Brought to you by 1AAuto.com, your source for quality replacement parts and the best service on the internet.
Hi, I'm Mike Green. I am one of the owners of 1A Auto. I want to help you save time and money repairing and maintaining your vehicle. I'm going to use my 20 plus years' experience restoring and repairing cars and trucks like this, to show you the correct way to install parts from 1AAuto.com. The right parts installed correctly, that's going to save you time and money. Thank you and enjoy the video.
In this video, we will be replacing the hub on this '98 Pontiac Grand Prix. This hub fits a whole bunch of different GM cars, Buick Century, Regal, Cadillac Deville, Eldorado, Olds Mobile, Chevy Impala, Monte Carlo, Bonneville, Grand Prix, Montana Transport, Chevy Venture, all kinds of different stuff. Here's the list of tools you need for the Grand Prix. Really what you need is basically metric sockets from 13 mm up to 19 mm, plus the large hub nut, which is anywhere from 32 to 35 mm and then the rest of the stuff and plus throw in there some penetrating oil and a hammer and rubber mallet.
If your hub doesn't come apart as easily as the one that did in this video, you may need an axle or a gear puller. If you are working with hand tools, start on the ground. Remove your lug nut covers, and loosen up your lug nuts. I've got the benefit of air tools, so I'm going to raise and secure the car and remove the wheel and tire.
I've removed the wheel and turned the wheels all the way to the right here, so I can access the brake caliper bolts, which is the inside ones, one here and then this one here. Those bolts are 15 mm, I am going to remove them. You don't want the brake hose on the caliper to be stressed, so I just kind of took a wire tie and tied the caliper up here, then remove the brake disc. Be careful not to touch the disc and if you do touch it, just clean it off with some rubbing alcohol or mineral spirits when you put it back together.
There's three bolts that hold the hub on. I'll go in behind here and show them to you. There's one here, one up in the middle there, and then back here next to the, this is the steering tie rod, there is one right there. It'll help probably using a little penetrating oil, right on the opposite side. Now we are going to remove those bolts. They are 13 mm, 1/2 inch is a standard equivalent actually it fits, but I am using 3/8 drive tools, so I going to remove those three bolts and the reason you have to use this size tool, is to get in behind on this top one, you need smaller tools in order to get in there. Then you get a nice big handle to work it.
I'm just going to kind of fast forward through here. As I remove these three bolts and as you can tell, they take quite a bit of force to get going. It will help if you have a large breaker bar and then just swivel the steering back and forth to make it easy to get to the bolts on each side. Now I am going to remove the middle hub nut. I have impact tools, so that makes it really easy. If you don't have impact tools, what you want to do is, before you remove the brake caliper, have somebody hold the brakes and then with hand tools, you can pull that hub nut off. This hub nut is 35 mm, so you'll need a 35 mm socket.
Now you need to get the axle back out. You don't want to use a hammer and whack it hard, but what I'd do is just give it a check. If I see it move a little bit with the hammer, which it does, then I would have you break out the rubber mallet and whack away. Rubber mallet is not going to hurt the insides of your CV joint. Now I got the two lower bolts out and the top one is really loose, so now it is kind of a matter of not being nice. You got to pound on each side of the flange and the hub and slowly work the flange out of the steering knuckle.
I have the hub work loose, now I am just removing the top bolt the rest of the way. I just kind of left it in there in case I hit it hard enough and it just came flying out, just safety. Unplug the harness right here and flip up this with your thumb and pull it off. This is what you would rather not see happen. Basically, the hub has been in there so long, the back part stayed in the steering knuckle and this came apart, so what I am going to have to do is use some driving tools and just try and drive the rest of it out of the steering knuckle.
As you see, it turns out to be not much of a problem. You just beat on it with the punch and hammer and it pops out. Don't worry about damaging it or anything like that. I poked a few holes in it.
You just want to push the clip off of this bracket and the rest of that comes out. Push in on the axle and kind of up a little bit and your connector comes out.
Clean up some of the corrosion on here. I'm just gonna use some penetrating oil just to lubricate it. Now it's ready for the new one to go in. Okay, here's our new hub from 1A Auto and not only is it prettier and shinier, it's all in one piece, as it should be, as opposed to three separate pieces. If you kinda use your imagination here this is all the same, it's gonna bolt up the same and now we are gonna put it in and it's not going to make a big groaning grinding noise.
Okay so that ends this part of this video, part one. Check out our other videos to see the installation of the hub.
We hope this helps you out. Brought to you by www.1AAuto.com. Your source for quality replacement parts and the best service on the internet. Please feel free to call us toll free 888-844-3393. We're the company that's here for you on the internet and in person.
Tools used
Brought to you by 1AAuto.com, your source for quality replacement parts and the best service on the Internet.
Hi, I'm Mike Green. I'm one of the owners of 1A Auto. I want to help you save time and money repairing or maintaining your vehicle. I'm going to use my 20-plus years experience restoring and repairing cars and trucks like this to show you the correct way to install parts from 1AAuto.com. The right parts installed correctly: that's going to save you time and money. Thank you and enjoy the video.
In this video, we're going to show you how to replace the front hub on this '97 DeVille, same as any '97 to '99 DeVille. Tools you'll need are jack and jack stands, 15 and 19 millimeter sockets with ratchet and extension, a breaker bar or a pipe for some extra leverage on some of those tougher bolts, a 13 millimeter 3/8 drive socket with a ratchet and extension, a large 34 millimeter socket, a large hammer, and a flat blade screw driver.
Use the screwdriver. I like to use a rag so I don't scratch the wheel or the center cap right underneath there. Your lug nuts 19 millimeter if you don't have the benefit of air tools, you want to start with the wheel on the ground, loosen the lug nuts then ready to secure the vehicle and remove the lug nuts the rest of the way. Also at this point, since we're doing the hub, if you don't have access to air tools with the vehicle on the ground, you're going to want to use your breaker bar and your 34 millimeter socket to loosen up that center hub nut.
Okay, now with your wheel turned, you can see right inside here, you can see that little hole in the brake pad, that is actually a wear indicator, it would indicate on this brake pad you're in good shape and then if you look at your outer pad, we can see that there's still some pretty good life left in it and then you want to make sure you check on both sides because sometimes you can have one side that's not worn, and the other side can be more worn but our brakes are fine. I have checked both sides, but I am going to take them apart and put them back together just to show you how to do it.
The next thing you want to do is removes these two bolts here which releases your caliper. These two bolts are 15 millimeter. These should just pull apart pretty easily. We'll speed it up here as we take out those bolts. Make sure that before you put these back together, that these pins are nice and clean and they have a little bit of grease on them. These look very good. Now, wrench the caliper off. We put the caliper up here out of the way. There's our inner pad again, and our outer pad and you can see the wear mark there and they've still got some good life on them, not a ton of miles but definitely don't need to replace them yet. But if you did want to replace them, you can just pull your pads right out like that. Now check your rotors and on this vehicle, well, with most vehicles, what you want to do is take your back of your fingernail, run it along the rotors, feel for any deep groves or gouges and then just kind of inspect the condition of the routers and these look absolutely fine. If you feel any grooves or there's too much rust or corrosion or your rotors look thin, then you do want to replace them.To remove and replace the rotors, there's two large bolts here and here. These bolts are 15 millimeters as well. What I have here is my ratchet and I'm going to use a piece of pipe. Okay, the pipe goes on there, gives me some extra leverage and then I'll push slowly down on the pipe. I can feel the bolts start to break loose. On top here I'm going to use a short extension. With this pipe again, it's easy pressure to the bolt to break lose. And then once that's bracket's off the rotor comes right off.
To remove the hub, there are three bolts. See one here, one up in there, then one around the other side. What you want to do is use some penetrant, spray the back sides of those bolts and let it sit for a while. Okay, while it's sitting, we're going to remove our hub nut; it's 34 millimeter. If you don't have an impact tool, what you need to do is loosen this while your tire is still on the ground and you do that with a big breaker bar and your pipe probably. Since I have impact tools, it'll come right off. You want to make sure your axle is free of your hub and generally you don't want to just bang on this thing repeatedly but what I usually do is just give it one good wrap and watch the axle in relation to the hub and if the axle moves, that means it's nice and free and most of the time they are free. Just give it one good hit and I saw it move.
This will come apart pretty easily. I'm going to use 3/8 inch drive tools, they're narrower, allows you to fit them in better. I'm going to put my 13 millimeter socket on there and then I use a piece of pipe again to create some leverage. Then slowly apply the pressure and the bolt will start moving. We're juts going to fast forward through removing the front two bolts and then turn our attention onto the rear bolt. Additionally, while I'm back here, I'll pull and disconnect my ABS harness. Remove the clip from the backing plate. Now, we're going to fast forward as we manipulate the steering and just remove those bolts the rest of the way. Now, you want to unseat the hub and you want to be careful not to damage this backing plate and then they come off pretty easy. Then, just start to come out, push the axle kind of the side and feed the harness clip through. Now that's the end of part one. We'll stop there with the hub off and if you want to see re-installation, just check out our other videos for the one with the same name but part 2.
We hope this helps you out. Brought to you by www.1AAuto.com, your source for quality replacement parts and the best service on the Internet. Please feel free to call us toll-free, 888-844-3393. We're the company that's here for you on the Internet and in person.
Tools used
Brought to you by 1AAuto.com, your source for quality replacement parts and the best service on the Internet.
Hi, I'm Mike from 1A Auto. I hope this how-to video helps you out, and next time you need parts for your vehicle, think of 1AAuto.com. Thanks.
In this video, we're going to show you how to replace a front hub on this 2003 Chevy Monte Carlo. And we show you on the passenger's side, but the driver's side is the same procedure. The items you'll need for this include a new front hub from 1AAuto.com, a 13mm, 15mm, 19mm, and 35mm socket and ratchet with an extension, flat blade screwdriver, a hammer, a torque wrench, and jack and jack stands.
Start off by just loosening up these lug nut caps. Now loosen up this 35mm hub nut. And you can see he uses a piece of pipe for some extra leverage. Now, we're just going to use an air tire tool to speed up this process. And you want to remove the hub nut most of the way, just leave it on a few threads, just to have it in place like this. And now you can remove your lug nuts. And if you don't have air-powered tools, you want to loosen these up while the vehicle is on the ground, then raise the vehicle, and remove them the rest of the way. If you do have air-powered tools, you can just remove them right here. Now you can just pull your wheel off and remove the hub nut.
Now you just want to pry in on the brake pads, and this will push in the piston on the caliper. And then remove these two 15 mm bolts, and we'll just fast-forward as Mike does this. Now just pull your caliper up and off. You can just set that aside. Then you want to remove these two 15mm bolts right here, and we'll fast-forward as Mike does that. And now you can just pull your caliper bracket free, and then pull your rotor free. And then you want to remove these three 13mm bolts on the back of the hub. The third one's right here. And we'll just fast-forward as Mike removes those.
You will need an extension to get to the bolts, as well as you want to make sure that you don't do any damage to the rubber boot that's on the CV axle. And just hammer on the side of the hub to break it free, it just pulls off.
Then put a bolt through, and take your new hub, push it back into place on the axle, hang the bracket up on that bolt, and then push the hub back in line with that bolt. And once you have the hub lined up, just tighten up that bolt, replace the other two, and then tighten up all 3 of them. And then just torque these three bolts to 65 foot-pounds.
Slide your new rotor into place, and then just replace a lug nut to hold it into place. Now put the bracket back on, and replace those two 15mm bolts and tighten them up. And now torque these two bolts to 85 foot-pounds. And push your brake pads into place. If these slides were seized up earlier when you removed them, just apply some brake grease to them. And then put your caliper back down into place. And then push those slides back into place on the back. And we'll just fast-forward as Mike tightens those up.
Now torque these two slides to 75 foot-pounds. Replace your hub nut preliminarily. And then replace your wheel and each of the lug nuts. And you just want to tighten them preliminarily, lower the vehicle, and tighten them the rest of the way. Tighten up the hub nut, and now torque it to 159 foot-pounds. And then torque these lug nuts to 100 foot-pounds in a crossing pattern. And replace your hub cap and tighten up those lug nut caps.
Whenever you do any work on the brakes, you want to just pump the brake pedal until it firms out, and then do a stopping test from 5 miles per hour, then 10 miles per hour.
We hope this video helps you out. Brought to you by www.1AAuto.com, your source for quality replacement parts and the best service on the Internet. Please feel free to call us toll-free, 888-844-3393. We're the company that's here for you on the Internet and in person.
BHA50009
The bearing was great, thankfully my neighbor had some tools to get the old one off because I couldn't get it to budge. Once we got that off the new one went on easy and works great.
Fits and works 2014 Chevrolet Impala Limited
Work great
So far so good parts fix good
No more roaring easy install
Good price, arrived on time, have used before and will buy again
Great quality fast shipping
I bought this brand because they make good parts for the Buick. 1a delivered as promised.
Solved my issues
Works well. Had this installed for a couple years now and going strong. Would buy again
Yes it can
Yes they are universal for these vehicles
New hardware is not included with this item. You may be able to reuse your original hardware if it is in good condition.
Hello, yes this is listed to fit if you have ABS brakes.
This item is a wheel bearing and does not have any CV style boots on it. The CV shaft will be a separate part and will contain all of the needed boots on it.
I found that the parts were interchangeable front to rear in my 06 Buick Rendezvous.
Older vehicles have berings and races. Wheel hub bearing is a one piece unit. I don't think they even rebuild them. If it is a wheel hub bearing just get new assembly and change.
Yes definitely needed reassurance. Thanks you
This would base upon the year, make, and model. Could you please provide this to us to guarantee the proper specifications.
We have a few different aftermarket companies build these parts specifically for us, as our 1A Auto house brand. They are manufactured to the same OEM specifications as the original part that came with your vehicle. If you have any further questions, please don't hesitate to ask.
