★★★★★
January 13, 2026
My grandson was able to replace them himself, 1st time while watching your video
Replaces
Part Details
Specifications
About TRQ:
TRQ is a trusted brand dedicated to making every repair a success story by combining premium parts with easy installation. Each TRQ part is engineered by a team of automotive experts to meet or exceed OEM standards, delivering enhanced performance and maximum longevity. With rigorous in-house testing, the brand ensures superior fit and function across every product line. TRQ also provides customers with best-in-class, step-by-step installation videos—so you can complete repairs with confidence, whether you're a first-time DIYer or an industry professional.
Product Features
Attention California Customers:
WARNING: This product can expose you to chemicals including Lead and Lead Compounds, which are known to the State of California to cause cancer, and birth defects or other reproductive harm. For more information, go to www.P65Warnings.ca.gov.
This part fits 6 vehicles spanning 2006-2018.
| Year | Make | Model | Description |
|---|---|---|---|
| 2010-2012 | Lexus | HS250h | Lexus HS250h Front Ceramic Premium G-Coated Brake Pad & Rotor Kit TRQ Performance BKA12607 |
| 2008-2015 | Scion | xB | Scion xB Front Ceramic Premium G-Coated Brake Pad & Rotor Kit TRQ Performance BKA12607 |
| 2012-2017 | Toyota | Prius V | Toyota Prius V Front Ceramic Premium G-Coated Brake Pad & Rotor Kit TRQ Performance BKA12607 |
| 2006-2008 | Toyota | Rav4 | Toyota Rav4 L4 2.4L Front without 3rd Row Seating Ceramic Premium G-Coated Brake Pad & Rotor Kit TRQ Performance BKA12607 |
| 2009-2012 | Toyota | Rav4 | Toyota Rav4 L4 2.5L Front without 3rd Row Seating Ceramic Premium G-Coated Brake Pad & Rotor Kit TRQ Performance BKA12607 |
| 2013-2018 | Toyota | Rav4 | Toyota Rav4 LE Front Ceramic Premium G-Coated Brake Pad & Rotor Kit TRQ Performance BKA12607 |
| Brand Label | Part Number |
|---|---|
| Raybestos Brakes | EHT1210H |
| Raybestos Brakes | MGD1210CH |
| DuraGo | BR900344 |
| Wagner | BD126404 |
| Aimco | 31440 |
| Bendix | PRT5886 |
| Raybestos Brakes | 980477 |
| Lexus | 446542160 |
| Toyota | 446502220 |
| Toyota | 446542160 |
| Scion | 446502220 |
| Toyota | 446502410 |
| Toyota | 044650R010 |
| Toyota | 446502240 |
| Scion | 446542200 |
| Pontiac | 19184912 |
| Scion | 446542160 |
| Toyota | 446542200 |
| FMSI | CD1210 |
| Toyota | 04465-AZ114 |
| Hollander | 530-50139 |
| Raybestos Brakes | 980477FZN |
| Toyota | 4351242040 |
| Raybestos Brakes | 980477P |
| Raybestos Brakes | 980477R |
| Toyota | 435120R010 |
This item may be interchangeable with parts from other brands with the above part numbers. This information is provided only for reference and does not guarantee that the item you are purchasing is identical to parts with part numbers from the brands listed above. To confirm that this item fits your vehicle, use the above "Check Vehicle Fit" option.
Lifetime Warranty
This item is backed by our limited lifetime warranty. In the event that this item should fail due to manufacturing defects during intended use, we will replace the part free of charge. This warranty covers the cost of the part only.
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Shipping is not available to a P.O. Box, APO/FPO/DPO addresses, US Territories, or Canada for this item.
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Created on:
Tools used
Hi. I'm Mike from 1A Auto. We've been selling auto parts for over 30 years.
Use a pry bar, or a large flat-bladed screwdriver to remove the hubcap. Just gonna slide it under the edge. Put that aside. Take a breaker bar and a 21 millimeter socket, and loosen the lug nuts with the car still on the ground.
Raise and support the vehicle. Now you can finish removing the wheel. These lug nuts are pretty loose, so I'm just going to use the socket and take them off. I'm removing the last lug nut. I'm just going to hold onto the wheel so that it doesn't fall off and take it right off.
Start by removing the two caliper pin bolts--one on the bottom and one on the top. Use a 14 millimeter. It actually broke free without having to use the mallet.
If it's tight, you can take a mallet and just tap it to break it free. You can squeeze the caliper a little bit by pulling it out. It should slide right off the pads. Take a bungee cord and just hang it up and out of the way.
So I'm going to use a small pry bar, or you can use a flat-bladed screwdriver. You need to pop them away from the brake rotor and out of the caliper bracket. Remove the caliper bracket bolts. There's two at the back--one on the top and one on the bottom. They're 14 millimeter. They can be in there pretty tight. Use a box wrench and a mallet and break them free.
Going to get the bottom one loose and then work on the top one. See that they've broken free--you can switch to a ratcheting wrench. Got it pretty loose, just got to remove the bottom one with my fingers. Put that aside and reuse it, and get the top one out. Pull the bracket out, and the bolt out.
This car is missing a rubber plug that goes in the rotor here. The rubber plug is so you can access the parking brake mechanism to release it. Somebody just put some duct tape over it. I'm going to peel it off. Inside here is the mechanism. I'm going to try to pull it off first, though, 'cause sometimes it's loose enough, you don't need to release it.
Parking brake's not on--it is spinning free. I can spray some rust penetrant around the hub. A little bit in here. We'll take our dead blow mallet. I'm gonna hit around the edge here to try to break it free.
Sometimes you'll get lucky. These might come off, but they usually get stuck on the parking brake shoes. Need to release the adjustment. It's very hard to see right now, but through this opening, it normally has a rubber plug on it. It had some duct tape on it. We removed it. Take a flat-bladed screwdriver. We're gonna spin it. Trying to grab the little tabs on there and spin it up, it's in a little wheel. Make sure I'm going the right way. You can check and see I went the wrong way. It locked it, so it's going to be actually spun down.
You basically just have to spin that wheel down and keep retracting the parking brake shoes in, so the converter will come free. When you adjust it, you're going through the rotor and into this hole, and then you're pushing down on it. And that spins the parking brake shoes in to release them.
Here's our original pads and rotors from our vehicle, our brand new ones from 1AAuto.com. Same exact style of rotor. Pads are same design--same lug pattern, pusher bolts, holes if you need to, the same access hole for the parking brake, which rides on the inside of the brake rotor hub here. These should fit great and work great for you.
We're going to clean and reuse our brake caliper hardware. It's in the caliper bracket, and I'm going to use the brake parts cleaner. Let's take a wire brush. Use the brake parts cleaner and a rag, and just wipe it down. Typically this hardware is stainless steel, so it can be reused. It doesn't get very rusty. And repeat it for the other side.
Now's is a good time while we have this out, just make sure that your caliper slide pins move freely. These ones move nice and free, and we install that in the car. Install the rotor backwards, take brake parts cleaner, and clean off the oil that comes on these so they don't rust while they're shipped.
Flip it over. Make sure you install it in a way that this hole lines up with one of the openings here so you can adjust the parking brake. Instead of taking the caliper off of our bungee cord, I'm going to take one of the old brake pads, take a ski clamp. And now what I'm going to do is gently compress the caliper, push the piston into the body, and that way when we put our new pads in it'll slide right together. I'm just going to rest the caliper like that.
Take a brake parts cleaner and clean it off. Reinstall our caliper bracket, keep the top one caught first, and it makes it a little bit easier. And I'm going to install the bottom one. It's a little easier, 'cause it just hangs on the top one. Reach in behind here. Put that bracket lined up.
Use the 14 millimeter ratcheting wrench to snug these up. Install our new pads. Just take some brake parts cleaner and make sure they're nice and clean. Brake caliper grease on the ears of them. Inside and outside pads are the same. Let's start with the inside pad. Place it on the bottom clip and push it up into the top clip. It snaps into place. Do the same for the outside one.
We're just following the curve of the pad too, the contoured, so the wider part is gonna match up with the lighter outside part of the rotor--same with the inside part. Just push them down into the clips and squeeze them together. Place the caliper back in place. Reinstall the bolts. Tighten these up. They'll get tight and I will stop.
Torque the caliper bolts to 46 foot-pounds. You need to adjust the drag on the parking brake. You can turn this so you can see the adjuster and then you can put your screwdriver in and just catch the gears in the wheel just right.
So now that's how you'd adjust it so that it's actually really tight. It's holding the brake runner, so now you know where the limit is. You want to back it off a little bit by turning it back down. Eventually if you touch the parking brake pedal it would self adjust out, but this way it just gets it closer right away.
So now I'm going to reach in and turn it down a little bit. So what it's dragging on right now is just the brake pads, but that should spin freely enough. And of course when you hit the parking brake pedal, it should come out and lock the rear wheels.
It's important to note these lug nuts have a taper, taper meets the wheel, matches the inside of the wheel. Don't install them with the flat side like this--that is incorrect. Install them with the taper to the wheel, it helps locate the wheel on the lug nut stud.
I'm just using the socket and ratchet to bring these down snug before I put the car on the ground.
We'll torque the lug nuts to 76 foot-pounds. Going in a cross pattern. We reinstall the hubcap. It'll line up the opening for the valve stem, with the valve stem on the wheel. Just push it in place.
Before we start the car, just going to gently press the brake pedal down, not all the way to the floor, maybe about a quarter of the way, and just pump it, and this will bring the brake caliper piston out to meet the pads, because we can press it, and you'll start to feel it get more solid as it pumps up.
Thanks for watching. Visit us at 1AAuto.com for quality auto parts, fast and free shipping, and the best customer service in the industry.
Tools used
What's up guys? I'm Andy from 1A Auto. In this video I'm going to show you how to replace the front brakes on this 2010 Toyota Rav Four. If you need these parts or other parts for your vehicle, click the link in the description and head over to 1aauto.com.
I raised and supported the vehicle. I'm going to remove the wheel. I'm using a 21 millimeter socket and an air gun. If you don't have an air gun, you can use a breaker bar. Just crack the lug nuts free while the vehicle is still on the ground. All right, now I want to take the tire off. This one is stuck on there pretty good, so I'm going to put one lug nut on and just hit it on the back side of the tire with a hammer. Break it free. Reason you leave the lug nuts so the tire doesn't go flying. Take the lug nut off, pull the tire off. Now I want to take the caliper off. I'm going to use a 14 millimeter socket and a ratchet. Loosen up these bolts right here. This one and this one goes out. And if the studs or the slides start spinning, you can use a wrench to hold those. Or even some pliers.
I'm going to grab the caliper. I'm just going to rock it back and forth a little bit. Then I'm going to use this caliper hanger. We actually sell these at 1aauto.com. Now hook it onto the coil spring and slide it through the caliper. This is going to prevent too much pressure on the hose. If you let it hang from the hose, you could damage the hose. Now I'll take the brake pads off. Slide these off. Then I'll take a 17 millimeter socket and ratchet and take these two caliper bracket bolts out. You might need to use a breaker bar. If they're on there too tight. As soon as they're loose, then I'm going to switch to an electric ratchet. Take those out. Just like that and slide the bracket off.
All right, so now I want to take the rotor off and sometimes it just gets stuck on there so you can try to grab and pull it and if not, you can use a bolt and thread into, there's two spots on this rotor right here and right there. Just thread a bolt in there. Just want to a little bit of pressure on that. That one's actually moving, but what am I going to do is just tap it with a hammer. Now, I want to tap in these locations right here, here, here. Just be careful. Don't hit the studs.
Just tighten this up a little bit more, and you can see the rotor's actually moving, which is good. I'm just hitting, give it a tap right here. Here we go. Grab it and slide it off. Here's the old parts. Here's the new brake parts from 1aauto.com. As you can see, the rotor is the same height. The rotor is machined the same way. This one is drilled and slotted for added cooling, better braking. The pads themselves are the same size, same pad material on the backside. Get yours at 1aauto.com and you'll be ready to rock and roll.
All right, I'm just going to take a straight blade screwdriver. Take these clips off. If you have to reuse them, then try to keep them in good shape. Try not to bend them, just push up on there and get underneath there. Then just take a wire brush, just clean some of the rust off right here. Then I'm going to do the same with the other side. Then you can also take these clips. Try to wire brush these if you're going to reuse them. Same right there. You can actually put the clips back on and then wire brush it.
Took these slide pins out. Just grab them, rotate them a little bit. Try to get these rubber rubber dust shields off. This one's being a little bit difficult. What we can do is just take a screwdriver, hook it in underneath here and slide this rubber piece out. Do the same with the other side. Slide it out. Get underneath here and pop it up just like that.
And on one of these slide pins, you can slide this little rubber piece off. You can use a pick, take that off, or a screwdriver. So when we have these guide pins out, it's important to remember which pin goes on which side because this one doesn't have that rubber guide and this one does, and that generally just keeps the vibrations down for when you're breaking.
So we'll start with this side. After you clean it off with brake cleaner, wipe it down, insert this rubber dust shield. Just slide that into position there. Use a little screwdriver or a pick. That looks good. You do the same on this side. A lot of times these rip over time and rubber just breaks down. Okay, those are good. Take a little caliper grease, put it on this pin. That's good.
And then we'll take this new rubber guide. This will just slide right on here, just like that. Take a little caliper grease. I like to not put too much grease on the end of it because then sometimes it's hard to push that back in. Slide that back in position. Give it a little twist and make sure that boot seats and those look good. Now, just take a little caliper grease. Just put it on these locations right here. That's just going to prevent a little bit of the corrosion from underneath these rattle clips.
Now these are directional. They do go on a certain way. So this clip goes here, and this one goes here, so that the spring side of the clip is on the outside, not on the inside. So you wouldn't want to install this clip here. That one can go on there. Now we'll do the same with the other side. Little bit of grease. Install this clip here, and this one goes right here. It's good. And we can take a little more grease. Just put a little grease on the clips. It's just going to help the pads slide back and forth easily. They're in there.
Now we're going to install the squealers. Now this squealer is going to go on this side of the brake pad. Just slide it on like that. And then this brake pad goes on the inside of the car. So this one's going to go on this side. So you're going to have two on the opposite sides, just like that. Let's go install it on the car.
Now take the rotor off, I'm going to slide the rotor on backwards and take some brake parts cleaner. There is a protective coating on the rotor that you want to wipe that off before we put the rotor on the car. Then just use a rag. Flip it around. Do the same on this side. A little brake parts cleaner and a rag. Because this rotor is so loose, what I'm going to do is just put a lug nut on just so it supports the rotor while I install the brakes. All right, that's good. That'll keep that good and tight.
Now I'll take the caliper bracket, slide it over the rotor, take the caliper bolts, get those started. We'll just tighten these up by hand and then we're going to torque them. Now I'm going to torque these caliper bracket bolts with a 17 millimeter socket and a torque wrench. To 79 foot pounds. It's good.
So we have our brakes. We have our squeal clips on there, warning clips. Now when you install them, what you want is the rotation of the rotor. You want the clip at the beginning of the rotation. Because that's what's going to wear out faster. This part of the pad's going to wear out faster than this part, at least on the outside here. Just slide those in position. And then same with the inside. So you want the clips at the top on this. And install those, just like that.
All right, now I'm going to take the caliper off the hanger. I'm going to slide this over here. And now I want to compress this caliper. I'm going to use this caliper compression tool. We actually sell this at 1aauto.com. This is a ratchet style tool, so slide this in here and it ratchets to tighten and also to loosen. As I do this, it's pushing the piston back into the caliper, which is pushing fluid through the hose, back through the brake line, back up to the master cylinder, into the brake reservoir. And if you do it nice and slow, you won't have any problems. Just go slow. And then it's always a good idea to check the fluid level after you've done a brake job, just to make sure you don't have too much or too little.
Compress that piston all the way down. All right, we'll ratchet that down. Loosen this up, spin that, tighten that up. It's good. All right, slide the caliper over the pads like that. Take these caliper bolts, they started here and here. Now we're going to tighten these caliper bolts down. I'm going to use a 17 millimeter wrench to hold the guide pin from spinning and then torque these with a 14 millimeter socket and a torque wrench to 25 foot pounds. Just like that. And then do the same on the top.
That's good. All right, now the brakes are on. Now I can take this lug nut off before I put the tire on. Now, install the tire. Take the lug nuts. Install the lug nuts. Now I lower the vehicle down to the ground so that the tires are just touching the ground, and I'm going to torque these with a 21 millimeter socket and a torque wrench to 76 foot pounds and I'm going to do this in a star pattern. The reason you do it in the star pattern is so that the wheel gets tightened down evenly.
And then I always like to go around again just to double check. And you're good to go. Now we want to make sure we pump up the brake pedal because there is going to be a little bit of an air gap between the brake pads and the rotor and this is going to eliminate that air gap. Just pump it up, it's going to squish the piston into the brake pads and it's good. Make sure it feels good.
And last, under the hood, you want to make sure you your brake fluid level and make sure it's not too high, if it's above the max. You want to empty some out, use some kind of fluid transfer pump, and then if it's too low, you want to add the appropriate brake fluid.
Thanks for watching. Visit 1aauto.com, for quality auto parts shipped to your door. The place for DIY auto repair. And if you enjoyed this video, please click the subscribe button.
BKA12607
My grandson was able to replace them himself, 1st time while watching your video
Excellent. No issues at all have been on the car for over a year.
excellent service
The rotors and pads worked great. Fit right the first time and there videos are great. Thanks again . Ps don't forget the price was right quality and fit were not compromised.
Great parts great price everything fit as expected and working perfectly
Easy replacement, seems like good quality.
Seems like good quality. Love the videos from a1. They are too notch. I feel like the slots should face the opposite way but I guess personal preference. I put them on as labeled. Slight squeak from the brakes that I hope goes away after some use. Overall good and happy.
Front Slotted and Drilled Rotors were better than the stock Rotors and the Brake Pads installed with ease. The brakes worked well and the braking performance of the car was improved greatly over the stock brake rotors and pads. I would recommend the Drilled and slotted Rotors and the matching Ceramic brake Pads over the stock set up for better Braking Performance.
excellent product great performance perfect fit
Had them for a month. Everything worked fit perfectly and the brakes work great.
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Thank you for your inquiry. You can find a kit similar to this that will be correct for that vehicle at this link: <a href="https://www.1aauto.com/toyota-pontiac-scion-front-premium-posi-ceramic-cross-drilled-and-slotted-premium-g-coated-performance-brake-kit/i/1apbs01049?f=1127969&y=2011." target="_blank">https://www.1aauto.com/toyota-pontiac-scion-front-premium-posi-ceramic-cross-drilled-and-slotted-premium-g-coated-performance-brake-kit/i/1apbs01049?f=1127969&y=2011.</a> Please let us know if you have any further questions.
