2015 Toyota Camry Front Semi-Metallic Premium G-Coated Brake Pad & Rotor Kit TRQ Performance BKA12059

Hey, everyone. Sue here from 1A Auto, and today we have our 2013 Toyota Camry in the shop. I'm going to show you how to do front brakes. If you need any parts for your car, click on the link below and head on over to 1AAuto.com.

So take the tire off. You need a 19 millimeter socket. Take your tire off. First thing I'm going to do is take my bleeder screw cap off and break the bleeder screw free. Make sure it opens up, because I want to push that piston back and I don't want to have to struggle with that unmounted. Just make sure it loosens up. That's good. Just give it a little tightness. Now I can dismount the caliper, 14 millimeter socket and we'll disconnect the caliper from the bracket. As you can see, that inner slider pin's spinning on me. So it's a 17 millimeter wrench and a 14 socket, 14 millimeter. Break those free. Then you get the top bolt too. Take that bolt out. Now we can slide the caliper off the bracket. There we go.

At this time, you want to look and see if you see any wetness, like a brake fluid leak on that boot. Looks pretty clean. It is a fairly new caliper from looking at it. But that doesn't mean that that won't fail because it still can fail. Here's a quick example of something you see. These are not our brake pads, and this is why I don't like non-riveted shims. So you get what you pay for sometimes if you buy a cheap pair of brake pads. These are brand new. Someone just put these on. But look at the shim. Look what that's done. They're just little divot points. That's how they come. I like them riveted on. When they do this, this is what happens. It slides right up and eventually. I've seen these slide up and start to cut into the caliper right in here. You can already see a line forming right there. I've seen them slide down and get jammed in between the bracket and come back around and start cutting into the hat of the rotor. So don't skimp out on brake pads.

Now we can get that bracket off the caliper knuckle. That should be two 17 millimeter sockets. There's two bolts, one on the bottom and one on the top. Going to use a brake caliper hook to get that caliper up out of the way. Someone put a lot of red thread locker. Get the top bolt. Take the bracket right out. Let's see if I can get this bolt out of this knuckle. They just kept using a lot of the thread locker. It's really caked in there. Now the rotor is stuck on the hub. It's pretty normal for that. So you just take a hammer. I'm not going to reuse my rotor. So I can hit it right here on the hub or on the surface. I'm just going to hit the hub though. There you have it. Now we can take that off and set it aside.

Here we have the old brake set for the front of the 2013 Camry and here's our new brakes from 1A Auto. I bought the racing, the slotted and vented rotors. They're a few bucks more and our Camry has a nice little V6 in it. So I want to give it a little performance braking. Nice cross mild, crosscut. They're balanced out. You'll actually see them balance in mild, vented and slotted on both sides, coated on the inside. The pads, the shims have ear tabs on them just like the ones I was showing here that don't. They just have these little pins, divots, and they slide off. These will stop it from sliding off.

The pad kit comes with whole all new caliper hardware springs and indicators that snap onto the pads, and the shim kits are coated. It has a neon rubber piece on the back there. It stops the rust and it's coated and those would go here. I'm going to replace this hardware. This is the caliper bracket. That's the old stuff. So it saves me from cleaning them up. Plus, these are straight, just metal. They don't have any of the coating background. If you need these parts or any other parts for your car, click on the link below and head on over to 1aauto.com.

Before I put the new rotor on, I'm going to spray the actual hub surface, even though it's brand new and the rotor's new. I'm going to put a little copper anti-seize on that to stop any corrosion from building up. I'm going to put a couple of lug nuts on here to hold this flush against my hub, so when I put caliper together and bracket on, I don't have to worry about it wobbling around. Now we're going to get our bracket ready for our brake assembly.

I'm going to take all the old tins off because I'm replacing it with the new tins. If I was going to save these and I didn't get the tins with my brake kit, I would want to take a brush and clean off all the surface like that and especially down underneath. That's really important, and you can take some parts cleaner and brake cleaner and clean that up. Spray it up and only apply a little bit of grease to the bracket on the bottom side of the tins just that and then place it back down on your actual bracket. Now if you notice on a Toyota, there's an outside anti-rattle clip spring.

You don't want it on the inside. That'll hit the rotor. Those go towards the outside just that that. So there's four of them. They're almost identical except for that you have to replace them with the spring part, the bend of it on the outside. So now I've got new hardware tins. So I'm just going to make sure that my mounting surface is clean of any debris. Like I said, it looks like someone just replaced this caliper at one point. That looks good. I'll take my little caliper grease, take a light coating, put it on all mounting surface. I don't want tons of it. I don't want to build it up. We're going to just paint it. Then I'll take my new tins, mount them just like this. Do the same to the top of the caliper bracket. No grease on the side. Leave it out in the element like that and free to stay clean so the pad slides nice and evenly. Last step in preparing our caliper bracket is the slider pins. So I'm just going to pull this out here. Take the boot off of the lip. Slide that right out.

Now I can feel that grinding inside there. So this caliper is fairly new, like I said. It looks like someone replaced it. But you always want to check these out, even if you out a new caliper on. If I was to order this, just got it in. I'm still going to put more grease in there. They don't seem to put as much grease as I would prefer in there and you can feel it when you put the pin in there. You don't want to feel a metal grinding and I can feel that binding up in there. So you can see the pin has this offset flat spots. I like to put the grease on those flat spots and just take the excess right off. Twist it when I put it down in there and then you'll feel that metal sound, feel it go away. So now that I've done this one, I'm going to do the same thing to this one. So now I can mount my caliper bracket to knuckle. I've took a wire brush to all the bolts to make sure there's no grease or rust or dirt in there.

Now these caliper bolt bracket to knuckle is a 17 millimeter socket and the torque is 79 foot pounds. So I'm going to snug them up and then I'll torque them down to 79 foot pounds. So here we have our brake pads that we're going to install and there is no inner and outer pad on this Toyota brand. It comes with the indicator. This is the brake indicator. So the tight piece goes on that little spot. See that notch? There's a little tab that's going to get locked in. See the tab? So you just push it right over and lock it down in. There we go. So it locked right there. So that is the brake pad indicator. So if you look at it, once it's sitting in, that is at the lowest point of that pad and you'll hear a squeak noise, a little squeal and that just tells you that you're in need of front brakes. Now to install these, I like to put them in at an angle and then I just bring it around and snap it right into place just like that.

Now one of the last steps is to push the caliper piston back before we install the caliper on the actual bracket. So I'm going to take it down from the strut. Take my hanging caliper bracket out of the way. So here's a quick tip. Try to say that. If you don't have the tool to push a caliper piston back in the hydraulic, I like to use an older welder pair of welding lock pliers. You can just put it right into that piston, the hollow part of it and before you push down on it, make sure you open the bleeder. You don't want to push any brake fluid back on anything that has an ABS module and then just squeeze it. Make sure you have a catch pan. Once the piston is bottomed out, tighten the actual bleeder screw back up just enough because you're going to grab it and bleed it. Take your pliers out. Once your caliper piston's pushed back and it's ready before you put it on, you want to put on these anti-rattle clips that come with Toyota. So there's little holes in the side of the pad housing.

You're going to put the one tab in. I'm going to both on one side. Make sure the butterflies are facing each other because you've gotta hold onto the pads once you do this because they're pushing it out. Grab the other tab. If you have gloves like this, I could be a little challenging. There we go. Now, holding that, I'm going to take my caliper. Slide it right over. Nice. Push in the sliders. Get my mounting bolts. There's are 14 millimeter socket. Once you get them bottomed out, we're going to torque them to the factory specs. 14 millimeter socket and the torque specs from caliper pin to bracket is 25 foot-pounds. I'm going to get a wrench to hold that inner pin from spinning. That should be a 17 millimeter. So 14 bolt head and 17 on the inside. We're going to do the same to the top. Last step, I'm going to open this bleeder screw and let it gravity bleed for a few seconds. See the air that came out? You want to bleed it until there's no more air bubbles. Once it's got a steady stream and no air in it, we're going to tighten that up.

Make sure you snug it really good. Take some brake cleaner and clean that up. Make sure you replace the bleeder boot so no dirt gets in there for the future. Now take your lug nuts off so you can remount your tire. Now that the brake job is complete, we're going to pump our brakes up. Make sure the pads sit and then we're going to check our brake fluid. Now I'm going to check my brake fluid and it is actually right at the max line. You can see it right there. So we're doing good. We're going to leave it right there. 19 millimeter socket. I'm going to hand tighten all the lug nuts. Then I'll lower it down and torque it. I'm going to start at the bottom and I'm going to go in a star pattern and the wheel torque for this Camry is 76 foot pounds. Double check everything.

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Hi. I'm Mike from 1A Auto. We've been selling auto parts for over 30 years.

Use a pry bar, or a large flat-bladed screwdriver to remove the hubcap. Just gonna slide it under the edge. Put that aside. Take a breaker bar and a 21 millimeter socket, and loosen the lug nuts with the car still on the ground.

Raise and support the vehicle. Now you can finish removing the wheel. These lug nuts are pretty loose, so I'm just going to use the socket and take them off. I'm removing the last lug nut. I'm just going to hold onto the wheel so that it doesn't fall off and take it right off.

Start by removing the two caliper pin bolts--one on the bottom and one on the top. Use a 14 millimeter. It actually broke free without having to use the mallet.

If it's tight, you can take a mallet and just tap it to break it free. You can squeeze the caliper a little bit by pulling it out. It should slide right off the pads. Take a bungee cord and just hang it up and out of the way.

So I'm going to use a small pry bar, or you can use a flat-bladed screwdriver. You need to pop them away from the brake rotor and out of the caliper bracket. Remove the caliper bracket bolts. There's two at the back--one on the top and one on the bottom. They're 14 millimeter. They can be in there pretty tight. Use a box wrench and a mallet and break them free.

Going to get the bottom one loose and then work on the top one. See that they've broken free--you can switch to a ratcheting wrench. Got it pretty loose, just got to remove the bottom one with my fingers. Put that aside and reuse it, and get the top one out. Pull the bracket out, and the bolt out.

This car is missing a rubber plug that goes in the rotor here. The rubber plug is so you can access the parking brake mechanism to release it. Somebody just put some duct tape over it. I'm going to peel it off. Inside here is the mechanism. I'm going to try to pull it off first, though, 'cause sometimes it's loose enough, you don't need to release it.

Parking brake's not on--it is spinning free. I can spray some rust penetrant around the hub. A little bit in here. We'll take our dead blow mallet. I'm gonna hit around the edge here to try to break it free.

Sometimes you'll get lucky. These might come off, but they usually get stuck on the parking brake shoes. Need to release the adjustment. It's very hard to see right now, but through this opening, it normally has a rubber plug on it. It had some duct tape on it. We removed it. Take a flat-bladed screwdriver. We're gonna spin it. Trying to grab the little tabs on there and spin it up, it's in a little wheel. Make sure I'm going the right way. You can check and see I went the wrong way. It locked it, so it's going to be actually spun down.

You basically just have to spin that wheel down and keep retracting the parking brake shoes in, so the converter will come free. When you adjust it, you're going through the rotor and into this hole, and then you're pushing down on it. And that spins the parking brake shoes in to release them.

Here's our original pads and rotors from our vehicle, our brand new ones from 1AAuto.com. Same exact style of rotor. Pads are same design--same lug pattern, pusher bolts, holes if you need to, the same access hole for the parking brake, which rides on the inside of the brake rotor hub here. These should fit great and work great for you.

We're going to clean and reuse our brake caliper hardware. It's in the caliper bracket, and I'm going to use the brake parts cleaner. Let's take a wire brush. Use the brake parts cleaner and a rag, and just wipe it down. Typically this hardware is stainless steel, so it can be reused. It doesn't get very rusty. And repeat it for the other side.

Now's is a good time while we have this out, just make sure that your caliper slide pins move freely. These ones move nice and free, and we install that in the car. Install the rotor backwards, take brake parts cleaner, and clean off the oil that comes on these so they don't rust while they're shipped.

Flip it over. Make sure you install it in a way that this hole lines up with one of the openings here so you can adjust the parking brake. Instead of taking the caliper off of our bungee cord, I'm going to take one of the old brake pads, take a ski clamp. And now what I'm going to do is gently compress the caliper, push the piston into the body, and that way when we put our new pads in it'll slide right together. I'm just going to rest the caliper like that.

Take a brake parts cleaner and clean it off. Reinstall our caliper bracket, keep the top one caught first, and it makes it a little bit easier. And I'm going to install the bottom one. It's a little easier, 'cause it just hangs on the top one. Reach in behind here. Put that bracket lined up.

Use the 14 millimeter ratcheting wrench to snug these up. Install our new pads. Just take some brake parts cleaner and make sure they're nice and clean. Brake caliper grease on the ears of them. Inside and outside pads are the same. Let's start with the inside pad. Place it on the bottom clip and push it up into the top clip. It snaps into place. Do the same for the outside one.

We're just following the curve of the pad too, the contoured, so the wider part is gonna match up with the lighter outside part of the rotor--same with the inside part. Just push them down into the clips and squeeze them together. Place the caliper back in place. Reinstall the bolts. Tighten these up. They'll get tight and I will stop.

Torque the caliper bolts to 46 foot-pounds. You need to adjust the drag on the parking brake. You can turn this so you can see the adjuster and then you can put your screwdriver in and just catch the gears in the wheel just right.

So now that's how you'd adjust it so that it's actually really tight. It's holding the brake runner, so now you know where the limit is. You want to back it off a little bit by turning it back down. Eventually if you touch the parking brake pedal it would self adjust out, but this way it just gets it closer right away.

So now I'm going to reach in and turn it down a little bit. So what it's dragging on right now is just the brake pads, but that should spin freely enough. And of course when you hit the parking brake pedal, it should come out and lock the rear wheels.

It's important to note these lug nuts have a taper, taper meets the wheel, matches the inside of the wheel. Don't install them with the flat side like this--that is incorrect. Install them with the taper to the wheel, it helps locate the wheel on the lug nut stud.

I'm just using the socket and ratchet to bring these down snug before I put the car on the ground.

We'll torque the lug nuts to 76 foot-pounds. Going in a cross pattern. We reinstall the hubcap. It'll line up the opening for the valve stem, with the valve stem on the wheel. Just push it in place.

Before we start the car, just going to gently press the brake pedal down, not all the way to the floor, maybe about a quarter of the way, and just pump it, and this will bring the brake caliper piston out to meet the pads, because we can press it, and you'll start to feel it get more solid as it pumps up.

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