Replaces
About TRQ:
TRQ is a trusted brand dedicated to making every repair a success story by combining premium parts with easy installation. Each TRQ part is engineered by a team of automotive experts to meet or exceed OEM standards, delivering enhanced performance and maximum longevity. With rigorous in-house testing, the brand ensures superior fit and function across every product line. TRQ also provides customers with best-in-class, step-by-step installation videos—so you can complete repairs with confidence, whether you're a first-time DIYer or an industry professional.
Product Features
TRQ brake pads are manufactured using premium raw materials and design standards to restore original performance. TRQ brake pads are positive molded and utilize a multi-layer shim for enhanced performance and service life. TRQ’s combination of materials and design ensures a low dust and low noise braking experience. TRQ recommends replacing your brake rotors when you replace your brake pads to ensure even wear of components and improved braking comfort. All products are fit and road-tested in our Massachusetts R&D facility to ensure we deliver on our promise of Trusted Reliable Quality.
Attention California Customers:
WARNING: This product can expose you to chemicals including Lead and Lead Compounds, which are known to the State of California to cause cancer, and birth defects or other reproductive harm. For more information, go to www.P65Warnings.ca.gov.
This part fits 6 vehicles spanning 1995-2003.
| Year | Make | Model | Description |
|---|---|---|---|
| 1996-1998 | Lexus | SC300 | Lexus SC300 Front Ceramic Brake Pads TRQ BFA73259 |
| 1995-1997 | Toyota | Avalon | Toyota Avalon Front Ceramic Brake Pads TRQ BFA73259 |
| 1996 | Toyota | Camry | Toyota Camry V6 3.0L Front Ceramic Brake Pads TRQ BFA73259 |
| 2000-2001 | Toyota | Camry | Toyota Camry L4 2.2L with 15 Inch Wheels Front Ceramic Brake Pads TRQ BFA73259 |
| 1998-1999 | Toyota | Celica | Toyota Celica Front Ceramic Brake Pads TRQ BFA73259 |
| 1998-2003 | Toyota | Sienna | Toyota Sienna Front Ceramic Brake Pads TRQ BFA73259 |
| Brand Label | Part Number |
|---|---|
| Raybestos Brakes | MGD697CH |
| Raybestos Brakes | EHT697H |
| Raybestos Brakes | SGD697C |
| Toyota | 446533060 |
| Lexus | 449133060 |
| Toyota | 446533220 |
| Lexus | 446533060 |
| Toyota | 449133060 |
| FMSI | CD697 |
| FMSI | D697 |
| FMSI | 7357-D697 |
| Sangsin Brake | SP1138 |
This item may be interchangeable with parts from other brands with the above part numbers. This information is provided only for reference and does not guarantee that the item you are purchasing is identical to parts with part numbers from the brands listed above. To confirm that this item fits your vehicle, use the above "Check Vehicle Fit" option.
Lifetime Warranty
This item is backed by our limited lifetime warranty. In the event that this item should fail due to manufacturing defects during intended use, we will replace the part free of charge. This warranty covers the cost of the part only.
FREE Shipping is standard on orders shipped to the lower 48 States (Contiguous United States). Standard shipping charges apply to Hawaii and Alaska.
Shipping is not available to a P.O. Box, APO/FPO/DPO addresses, US Territories, or Canada for this item.
Expedited is available on checkout to the United States, excluding Alaska, Hawaii.
Final shipping costs are available at checkout.
Created on:
Tools used
Brought to you by 1AAuto.com, your source for quality replacement parts and the best service on the internet.
Hi, I'm Mike Green. I'm one of the owners of 1A Auto. I want to help you save time and money repairing or maintaining your vehicle. I'm going to use my 20-plus years' experience restoring and repairing cars and trucks like this to show you the correct way to install parts from 1AAuto.com. The right parts installed correctly. That's going to save you time and money. Thank you and enjoy the video.
In this video we'll show you how to service the front disc brakes on this 1994 Camry, pretty much the same as any 1992 to 1996 Camry. The tools you'll need are a large flat-blade screwdriver, a 21 mm socket and ratchet or your lug wrench, 14 and 17 mm sockets with ratchet, a torque wrench, a large C-clamp and a jack and jack stands.
First we'll remove the hubcap. Use a large screwdriver or a pry bar. Remove the lug nuts from your wheel. I've got a 21 mm socket and I have an air wrench. You can obviously leave your car on the ground, use your lug wrench or a 21 mm socket and wrench to get them off.
As you can see I've turned the wheels, and to remove the caliper which you need to do to remove the pads you've got two 14 mm bolts, one here and then one up here. You can remove the caliper and the pads and then if you want to replace the rotor, which actually this car the rotors look really good. If you did want to replace the rotors you've got bolts that need a 17 mm bolt here and then one down lower right there.
Remove these 14 mm bolts just using a regular wrench. You can see that it's not hard to do. It's just going to take some pressure but not a ton. The other bolt is removed. Use your screwdriver and pull the caliper right off. Support it up here. Here are my pads. I'm just using my screwdriver to pry them out. You can see that they're pretty well worn, but as I said my disc is nice. What you want to do is just kind of take the back of your fingernail and run it back and forth across there. If it's nice and smooth then you're okay. If it has any deep grooves or gouges in it you'll want to replace them.
If your discs are in bad shape and you want to replace them, it is 17 mm bolts down in here. These ones are going to be quite a bit more torque to get them loose. I always like to hang up and hang down. That's usually the best way to get torque on them, or stand on the wrench. That comes off and once that bracket is off the disc for the rotor generally just comes right off. Just to show you, if you do order new discs from 1A Auto, they are going to go on there just like the originals and work for you. Like I said, these are in good shape, and I'm not a person to waste good discs. I'll put those back on.
One thing you'll want to do is take these little pins out. These look nice. They are well lubricated. They slide well. You can either take them out or just make sure that they slide back and forth with no drag. Tighten these up to the foot panels. Here are the old pads, new pads from 1A Auto. You can see they've got quite a bit more meat on them and they even have the plates and everything. They actually just kind of go down into the little. Just squeeze them together. Next, you're going to want to use a C-clamp and you're going to want to force the piston back into the caliper here. You can see the piston right in there. I'm just going to keep this C-clamp right on there and it goes back in pretty easy without a whole lot of pressure. You probably can loosen up your cap on your brake fluid reservoir and make sure it's not overfull because it will leak out if there is too much in there.
Before you install your caliper you'll want to put this little spring back in. Just kind of keeps them apart so they don't squeeze on the rotor. What we did with that C-clamp is we pushed this piston back in. Now this will go down on there very nice. Now the two 14 mm bolts. These 14 mm bolts you'll need to tighten up to about 25-foot pounds. I've got a wrench holding the stud that they're going into. Okay, and 25-foot pounds is not a lot, but it is the right amount. Let's see here. These don't really do any of the braking. The braking energy is absorbed by that big bracket. These just kind of hold that caliper in place and let it float. Now we'll do the other side and then put the wheel back on and when you put the wheel back on you want to torque the lug nuts to 100-foot pounds and then before you drive your car anywhere you want to get in, start it up and pump the brakes a few times to make sure that piston gets back out and the brakes are working. They'll take a few pumps to the brakes to make sure that everything is back where it should be. Then before you drive your care just put it in gear, make sure the brakes hold then do a stop from 5 miles an hour before you go out and test it on the road.
Here we've put the wheel on. I am just preliminarily tightening up the lug nuts with an air gun, and now I'm tightening them to 100-foot pounds using a star pattern with the torque wrench. Install the center cover; line up the indent on your valve stem there.
We hope this helps you out. Brought to you by www.1AAuto.com, your source for quality replacement parts and the best service on the internet. Please feel free to call us toll free, 888-844-3393. We're the company that's here for you on the internet and in person. Thank you.
Tools used
Brought to you by 1AAuto.com- your source for quality replacement parts and the best service on the internet.
Hi I'm Mike Green; I'm one of the owners of 1A Auto. I want to help you save time and money repairing and maintaining your vehicle. I'm going to use my 20 plus years experience restoring and repairing cars and trucks like this to show you the correct way to install parts from 1aauto.com. The right parts installed correctly, that's going to save you time and money. Thank you and enjoy the video.
In this video we're going to show you how to remove and replace the front brake pads and rotors on this 1999 Sienna same as any of this generation Sienna. Tools you'll need are a large flat blade screwdriver, 21 mm socket and ratchet or your tire iron and 14 mm and 17 mm sockets with a ratchet, a wire brush, a little bit of wheel bearing or some type of lubricant, a torque wrench and a large C clamp.
First we'll take off the week, large screw driver, remove the hubcap and if you don't have the best air tools you'll want to have your car on the ground first and then loosen up your lug nuts with an either 21 mm socket and ratchet or your tire iron. I'm just going to use the air ratchet to get these off. What you want to do is bring your- this place you have easy access to the back of the rotor. Obviously lifting and securing the vehicle is required here so you want to obviously follow all the precautions on your jack and jack stands and obviously if you can't turn this by hand just you can use the steering wheel and turn your wheels so you can access the back.
There are going to be two 14 mm bolts. One here and then one up here and then there's two 17 mm bolts, one there and one right up there. These 14 mm bolts just hold the brake caliper on so if you just want to change your pads if your rotors are in good shape which you can see these are not; big area of pitting right here where it was sitting for a while and there's pitting all over the place so these rotors need to be changed out. If your rotors were in good shape if you ran your finger across them and you felt no real deep grooves or anything you could get away with just replacing your pads.
If your vehicle is older you'll either want to have your rotors checked for the run out or just replace them with a new set of rotors. You can see right in here it's probably a little difficult but you can see the part that moves. I can't even move it, is the rotor and then you can see that that pads very thin and the outer pad I think is not the thin side. The two 14 mm bolts remove easily by hand. Before you take those all the way out what you can do is use a screwdriver, large screwdriver, put it down in there and then pry your caliper out and that resets your system. Just slowly keep prying out till it stops then the caliper just pulls right up and off. This is a plate that it looks like they used an adhesive on this car, maybe try to keep the squeaking down I guess. The caliper right up here and on these 17 mm bolts if all you have is regular tools what you might want to use is a piece of pipe, put it right over the ratchet to give you extra leverage and just pull. Go easy you don't want to pull too hard because you could actually break your ratchet.
The rest of the way I'm just going to cheat and use my air tools right here. Now you can see there's my pad and you can just use your ratchet, knock them out. Now if you're not planning on replacing your rotors you actually don't have to take that bracket off and you can just use a screwdriver to pry the pads out of that bracket. Out of this bracket a couple things, these bolts should easily move back and forth. If they don't what you want to do is take off the rubber here, pull them out, clean them up a little bit, put some a little bit of wheel bearing grease on them and put them back in and make sure they're nice a free. Do that and then the other thing you want to check is these stainless steel slides here. You want to clean them up really good with a wire brush and then when you put the new pads on just put a little bit of grease on the ends of the pads so that the pads can slide back and forth there.
Here's my new rotor from 1A Auto, obviously the old rotor. The old rotor just pulls right off, new ones going to go right on. I've got the plastic on here still just to be careful not to touch the rotor with my hands; don't want to get any oil on it. You can touch this flan surface but you want to avoid touching the actual breaking surface of the rotor. What I do is just push the rotor on, put a lug nut on to hold it in place. This is my bracket.
The torque with these 17 mm bolts is 75 foot pounds. My new brake pads and I've put a little bit of grease right on the ends, right on here and slide the back one in. This keeps falling out so back up in. Put this one down in on the bottom first and then the top and you may want to use your ratchet handle with it to get it in place. Then you're going to want to use a big C clamp to push this caliper piston in the rest of the way. Now you can see this piston right here is just out a little bit so I'm going to put this C clamp in there. Push it in all the way, slide the caliper down on, I need to pull these in a little bit. Two 14 mm bolts, these two we only tighten up to about 25 foot pounds, all they do really is hold the caliper in place, they don't really absorb any of the breaking power. This shaft was spinning so you may find you want to have a small adjustable wrench around to hold it in place. See that I try and tighten that spin. Bring it back around off this lug nut.
Now I'm going to speed it up here as I put the wheel back on, put the lug nuts on and then just tighten them up a little bit with my air ratchet and then lower the vehicle down and torque the lug nuts to 100 foot pounds and then put the center cap on. Very important before you drive your car, make sure you get in and pump the breaks because when you push those pistons back into the calipers you'll have to reset those so you want to pump the breaks a bunch of times then just try to stop from like 5 miles an hour before you drive the car on the street.
We hope this helps you out, brought to you by www.1AAuto.com- your source for quality replacement parts and the best service on the internet. Please feel free to call us toll free 888-844-3393. We're the company that's here for you on the internet and in person.
BFA73259
