Replaces
Part Details
Our direct fit gas-charged strut assemblies help to restore your vehicle’s handling and ride quality to just like new.
Our direct fit gas-charged shock absorbers help restore your vehicle's handling and ride quality to just like new.
Item Condition:
New
Attention California Customers:
WARNING: This product can expose you to chemicals including Chromium (Hexavalent Compounds), which is known to the State of California to cause cancer, and birth defects or other reproductive harm. For more information, go to www.P65Warnings.ca.gov
Lifetime Warranty
This item is backed by our limited lifetime warranty. In the event that this item should fail due to manufacturing defects during intended use, we will replace the part free of charge. This warranty covers the cost of the part only.
FREE Shipping is standard on orders shipped to the lower 48 States (Contiguous United States). Standard shipping charges apply to Hawaii and Alaska.
Shipping is not available to a P.O. Box, APO/FPO/DPO addresses, US Territories, or Canada for this item.
Expedited is available on checkout to the United States, excluding Alaska, Hawaii.
Final shipping costs are available at checkout.
Created on:
Tools used
Brought to you by 1AAuto.com, your source for quality replacement parts and the best service on the Internet.
Hi, I'm Mike from 1A Auto. I hope this how-to video helps you out, and next time you need parts for your vehicle, think of 1AAuto.com. Thanks.
In this video, we're going to show you how to replace the struts on this '98 Toyota Camry. It’s pretty much the same for any '97 to '01 Camry with the 2.2 liter four cylinder. You'll need new struts from 1AAuto.com, 12 to 22 millimeter sockets with wrenches and ratchets and extensions, vice grips, breaker bar, hammer, and jack and jack stands.
Break all your lug nuts lose while the vehicle is still on the ground. You'll need a 21 millimeter socket and a breaker bar. Install your jack under the vehicle. Line it up with the pinch weld. Jack the vehicle up high enough that you can get a stand underneath. Making sure you have enough clearance to remove your tire or do whatever you have to do under the vehicle, install your jack stand onto this uni-body frame rail under the vehicle. If you need to work on the rear of the vehicle put your jack stand underneath and just ahead of the lower control arm here right by the tow point. Once the weight is on your stands give the vehicle a little shake to make sure they're on there secure. Repeat these steps on the opposite side. Make sure that you bring the vehicle up so that when it sits on the other set of jack stands the vehicle will be level. You can now lower your vehicle onto the stands on this side. With the vehicle raised and supported, remove your lug nuts the rest of the way. If you need a little more room to work, you can pull the hub cap off. Remove your wheel from the hub.
We've put our vehicle on a lift to make it easier to film for you, but this job can be easily done with a jack and jack stands.
This is the passenger side of our '98 Toyota Camry. Removal and installation of the strut will be exactly the same on the driver's side. Unless you're replacing your sway bar links with the strut you only have to remove the 14 millimeter nut on top and move the sway bar link out of the way. These are prone to spinning so we'll use a small pair of vice grips to clamp onto the metal collar on the back of the sway bar link. Remove the nut with the with the 14 millimeter socket and ratchet. With the nut removed you can remove your vice grips. Take the sway bar out of the strut. So with the sway bar installed, you would want to take the vice grips and clamp to this ring to keep the stud from spinning while you remove the nut.
Lift up on these tabs and remove the clip for the wheel speed sensor. Remove the 12 millimeter bolt, holding the brake line and the ABS sensor wire in place. Remove the brake hose and the sensor wire from the retainers. Allow them to hang off to the side.
Loosen the two 22 millimeter nuts from the bolts using a wrench, 22 millimeter socket and breaker bar. Once they're broken lose you can switch to a ratchet. Don't remove the nuts fully. Be sure to leave a couple of threads. The reason we didn't remove the nuts fully is these bolts tend to get stuck into the spindle. We use a hammer and tap them out. Then we can remove our nut. A little more. The reason we leave the nut on there is so we don't mushroom the end of the bolt and prevent it from coming out or going back in easily. With the nut removed, you should be able to wiggle the spindle. Remove your bolt. Repeat this process on the bottom. With the bolts removed separate your strut from the spindle.
Remove the three 14 millimeter nuts at the top of the strut using a socket and ratchet. Leave the last nut on with a few threads. Support the strut from the wheel well. Finish removing the last nut. Remove the strut spring assembly from the vehicle.
Here we have our old strut from the vehicle and our new strut from 1A Auto. As you can see, this is a spring strut assembly ready to go out of the box directly into your car. No need to compress the spring, remove the strut top, change everything over, and replace new parts. As you can see we have a new strut mount on top with new studs. We have the same spring, same upper strut mount, same spring perch. We have the same bolt locations into the spindle. The same bracket to hold our ABS wire as well as our break line. These smaller holes here are to hold the clip for the ABS wire and on the opposite side we have the ear for the sway bar link. If your old suspension is worn out, bouncy, rusted out or your ride quality just isn't what it used to be, this new strut from 1A Auto is going to go right in, direct fit like your original equipment, and fix you up right.
Reinstall your strut into the wheel well. Use the new nuts included with your new quick strut. The nuts included with the new strut are 15 millimeters so use a 15 millimeter socket and ratchet to install the new hardware. Torque the 15 millimeters nuts to 59 foot pounds.
For easiest installation make sure the steering wheel is straight so the spindle will line up with your strut. Line the spindle up. Send your bolts back through front to back. Start the nut on the back side. Tighten these back down with a 22 millimeter socket, ratchet and wrench. Using a 22 millimeter socket and torque wrench as well as a 22 millimeter wrench, torque the steering knuckle to strut bolts to 156 foot pounds.
Reinstall the hook and tab for the ABS wire. Reinstall the brake hose into its clip. Tighten down the 12 millimeter bolt with a socket and ratchet. Reinstall the clip for the ABS wire into the holes of the strut.
Reinstall your vice grips onto the sway bar link. Send the sway bar link through the strut. Tighten down the 14 millimeter nut. Use a torque wrench to tighten the nut to 29 foot pounds. Remove the vice grips.
Reinstall your wheel and tire. Start your lug nuts. Check that they're all seated. Jack up on your pinch weld. Be sure that where you jack isn't going to interfere with your ability to remove the jack stands. Bring the vehicle up until it's off the stands. Remove your stands from under the vehicle. With the stands clear, lower the vehicle. Move to the other side and repeat these steps. If you've removed a tire, only lower the vehicle until the wheel touches the ground. With partial weight of the vehicle on the ground, torque your lug nuts to 76 foot pounds in a cross pattern. Then you can remove your jack the rest of the way. Reinstall your hub cap. Align this notch with the valve stem on the wheel. Snap it back into place.
Thanks for tuning in. We hope this video helps you out. Brought to you by www.1AAuto.com, your source for quality replacement parts and the best service on the Internet. Please feel free to call us toll-free, 888-844-3393. We're the company that's here for you on the Internet and in person.
