1999 Toyota 4Runner L4 2.7L with California Emissions Ignition Coil TRQ ICA61755

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Hi, I'm Mike from 1A Auto. I hope this how-to video helps you out, and next time you need parts for your vehicle, think of 1AAuto.com. Thanks.

In this video, we're going to be working with our 98 Toyota Camry. We're going to show you how to remove and replace your ignition coil. This is going to be the same front and rear. It's just a matter of where the bolts are.

Your ignition coil ramps up the power from your vehicle to make sure you get a nice strong spark inside of the combustion chamber and properly light off that air/fuel mixture to keep your vehicle running smooth.

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Here are the items you'll need for this repair: 10mm wrench

Open the hood and secure the hood prop. The ignition coil packs are located on the passenger side of the engine. Each coil pack is responsible for firing two cylinders. The first one, we have one and four. The second, we have two and three. Removal is fairly similar for both.

We'll lift up and remove the spark plug wires from each coil. Hang them off to the side. Disconnect the electrical connector. Using a 10mm wrench, we'll remove the two 10mm bolts on the ignition coil. Usually, once you get them cracked loose, you can just remove them by hand. Once you've loosened up the bolt a little bit, you should be able to turn the coil down and out of the way.

This will give you a little more room to get in there and work. Again, once it's cracked loose, you should be able to remove the bolt the rest of the way by hand. Remove the coil from the vehicle.

Here, we have our old part that we removed from our vehicle and our new part from 1AAuto.com. As you can see, these parts are identical with the same four-pin connector, same two posts for the ignition coil wires, same two posts for the spark plug wires. You can see our factory one is labeled, '1 4', whereas our new one is universal, as these are the same both font and rear aside from the designations. Our new one comes marked, '1 4', up top, and '3 2', down below, so no matter what side you put it on, you know which coil wire is going to go on here.

We have the same two-bolt connector on the back, and the same coil inside here. What your coil pack does is ramps up the power going through your vehicle from the alternator once the vehicle's running. Makes it strong enough that it can fire off your spark plugs, and light the air/fuel mixture inside of your combustion chamber. A weak or failed ignition coil will cause a check engine light. If it's severe enough, a flashing check engine light which means you need to shut the vehicle down immediately, as that is a type A misfire and detrimental to your vehicle. They can also cause a slight hesitation or skip when they first being to fail, go on to cause those check engine lights, and noticeable misfires as they get worse and worse.

If you need a new ignition coil for these symptoms, this part from 1A Auto is going to go in direct fit, just like your original equipment, and fix you up right.

Our secondary ignition coil, here, for cylinders two and three is in good condition aside from being a little dirty, there, from a leaky valve cover. This is removed the same way that the front one is. We'll remove the two coil wires on the top, the connector on the bottom. The two 10mm bolts, actually, have to be reached from the backside, here.

Start the bolt into the bottom of the ignition coil. Bring it down and into place. You actually want to leave this hanging off to the side a bit when you first start the bolt just to give you some room to work in there. Once we get it down so we're within a turn or two of being tight, we'll go ahead and get the wrench on there and finish tightening it up. Slide the coil back up into place and reinstall the top bolt.

Reconnect the electrical connector at the bottom. Reconnect the wire for number 4 to the rear, number 1 in the front. Reconnect the wire retainers, if your vehicle has them. Fire up your vehicle and make sure it idles smoothly, and you're good to go.

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