2001 Toyota Solara Coupe L4 2.2L Automatic Transmission US Built Models 4 Piece Engine & Transmission Mount Kit TRQ MTA32794

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Hi, I'm Tony with 1AAuto here to talk to you today about the upper motor mount, the torque mount, or what’s most commonly referred to as the dog bone mount, on this '98 Toyota Camry behind me.

The mount is located here on the top passenger side of your engine and what it does is it prevents fore and aft movement of your engine as you let on and off the throttle. That engine wants to lurch forward and go backwards as you get on and off the gas. These mounts are very common to fail as we constantly get on and off the throttle when driving, so these really take a lot of abuse.

The easiest way to test for a bad dog bone mount is to have a friend stand with the hood open and watch the movement of the motor and the actual dog bone mount itself. We've set up a camera to show you what it looks like and what you or your friend will do from inside the vehicle while the other watches.

Put your foot on the break, shift into reverse, you'll see a large engine movement. Drive, it'll lurch the other way, and you can actually feel a little bit of a clunk inside the car as that motor is rocking back and forth.

If you're unsure, with your foot still firmly on the break, you can rev it up a few times and really see that engine move. The way you can tell it's your dog bone mount and not the fault of another mount in the motor, as you'll notice, the dog bone mount stays in place while the engine lurches back and forth.

Something that may cause you to believe that your dog bone mount has gone bad is when you accelerate and let off the throttle when driving, you'll feel the engine lurch. The most common place you'll probably notice this movement is when starting from a stop sign or a light. We've installed our new mount to give you an idea of what a normal amount of engine movement looks like. You'll notice there's no more clunking or hard lurching in the motor, while it does still rock back and forth slightly.

If your old dog bone mount has broken down, worn out, or torn and is causing clunking or excessive engine movement inside the bay, this new dog bone mount from 1AAuto is going to get rid of that noise, lock your motor down where it needs to be, and fix you up right.

Thanks for tuning in. We hope this video helps you out. Brought to you by www.1AAuto.com, your source for quality replacement parts and the best service on the Internet. Please feel free to call us toll-free, 888-844-3393. We're the company that's here for you on the Internet and in person.

Brought to you by 1AAuto.com, your source for quality replacement parts and the best service on the Internet.

Hi, I'm Mike from 1A Auto. I hope this how-to video helps you out, and next time you need parts for your vehicle, think of 1AAuto.com. Thanks.

In this video, we're going to show you how to replace the front engine mount. This is a 1998 Toyota Camry. It's basically the same for yje '97-'01 Camry, with the 2.2 liter four cylinder engine, and an automatic transmission. There is a different mount for US and Japan built models, but the procedure is the same.

You'll need a new front mount from 1AAuto.com, 14-17 millimeter sockets with a ratchet and extension, torque wrench, and a jack and jack stands.

This job can be done with the vehicle on the ground. You may not even have to raise and support it, but we've put it on the lift to make it easier to film for you.

Remove the 10 millimeter bolts securing this steel pan to the bottom of the sub-frame. You have bolts hidden here, up under the splash shield in the back. All these along the front, and another one under the splash shield on this side. We'll remove the 10 millimeter bolts with a 10 millimeter socket and ratchet, and an extension if needed. Be sure to secure this pan while you remove the last bolt so it doesn't fall on you.

Remove the 14 millimeter bolt coming from the bottom of the motor mount up through the sub-frame. Use a 14 millimeter socket and ratchet. Use a floor jack under your oil pan to support the weight of the engine while we remove the mount. Remove the bolt on the top of the motor mount with a 17 millimeter socket and ratchet, and a long extension for some access. Remove the remaining two 14 millimeter bolts located on either side of the motor mount. We're going to use a 14 millimeter socket, and I like to use a couple of extensions so I can get enough clearance to swing a ratchet up over the manifold. Jack up on the motor a little. Drop the motor mount down. Remove it from the vehicle.

As you can see, the old mount and the new mount are identical. We have the same three mounting locations at the bottom and a welded nut for the bolt that comes up from the bottom of the sub-frame. They're the same height and shape. You'll notice our new part comes with a stud in it should you decide to use that. Or you can simply spin it out and re-use the top bolt that came off of your old mount.

Install your new motor mount. Line up your rear bolt holes. Start them into the frame. Start the top bolt into the motor mount. Or if you decided to use the stud, you'll thread the nut on at this point. Tighten the remaining two 14 millimeter bolts. Torque the 14 millimeter engine mount to sub-frame bolts to 47 foot-pounds. Torque the bolt from the engine mount to the rubber to 47 foot-pounds. Let the engine off the jack. Reinstall the 14 millimeter bolt on the bottom of the sub-frame up into the engine bracket. Torque the bolt to 47 foot-pounds.

Reinstall the steel pan at the bottom with your 10 millimeter bolts.

Thanks for tuning in. We hope this video helps you out. Brought to you by www.1AAuto.com, your source for quality replacement parts and the best service on the Internet. Please feel free to call us toll-free, 888-844-3393. We're the company that's here for you on the Internet and in person.