Replaces
Part Details
TRQ CV (constant velocity) drive axles are manufactured using premium raw materials designed to restore original performance. TRQ CV drive axles are new, so there is no core charge with your TRQ purchase. TRQ-designed drive axles utilize neoprene boots, moly grease, stainless steel clamps, and heat-treated ball tracks to ensure extended service life. Each TRQ axle is application-specific so each spline and thread will mate properly for a seamless fit. All products are fit and road-tested in our Massachusetts R&D facility to ensure we deliver on our promise of Trusted Reliable Quality.
Product Features
CV axles are designed to transmit the power from your vehicle's drivetrain to the wheels while being able to flex and pivot to the demands of the steering and suspension systems. If your vehicle is making clicking noises at lower speeds or when making turns, it may be time to replace your CV axles with our 100% brand new assemblies.
Item Condition:
New
Attention California Customers:
WARNING: This product can expose you to chemicals including Lead and Lead Compounds, which are known to the State of California to cause cancer, and birth defects or other reproductive harm. For more information, go to www.P65Warnings.ca.gov.
Lifetime Warranty
This item is backed by our limited lifetime warranty. In the event that this item should fail due to manufacturing defects during intended use, we will replace the part free of charge. This warranty covers the cost of the part only.
FREE Shipping is standard on orders shipped to the lower 48 States (Contiguous United States). Standard shipping charges apply to Hawaii and Alaska.
Shipping is not available to a P.O. Box, APO/FPO/DPO addresses, US Territories, or Canada for this item.
Expedited is available on checkout to the United States, excluding Alaska, Hawaii.
Final shipping costs are available at checkout.
Created on:
Tools used
Hi, I’m Mike from 1A Auto. We’ve been selling auto parts for over 30 years!
Use a large pry bar or a flat bladed screwdriver to remove the wheel cover. Just kind of slide it between the wheel and the plastic. Pop it off. These lug nuts are a 21 millimeter socket. Use that and a breaker bar to loosen them while the vehicle's on the ground. Raise this for the vehicle. We're using a two post lift, but you can use a jack and jack stands. Lug nuts are loose. I can take my socket and finish removing them. Just going to hold on to the wheel. Take the last lug nut off. It's going to be loose. Don't want to drop it. Drop the lug nut, that's okay. Just don't want the wheel to fall.
Before we can remove this axle nut, we need to bend back the staking. Instead of a cotter pin this is what locks the axle nut in here. Going to take a small punch and a hammer and bend that out so that the nut can be turned off the axle shaft. Going to spray some rust penetrant on the nut and the threads to help it move. This uses a 30 millimeter 12-point deep socket. Take a larger breaker bar, then I'm going to have an assistant sit in the car and step on the brakes so it doesn't turn for me. Then I'll break it free. Someone helping you holding the brakes, take the breaker bar and our socket and turn this off. There it is. Give it a couple good turns while they're holding the brake. Make sure it's moving nice and free. Now going to switch it to a smaller ratchet. Little easier to handle. Work on taking it off the rest of the way. All right. It's pretty loose now. I can take it off with my hands.
For now, I'm just going to keep the old one on there so the axle doesn't slide back out on me while I'm trying to remove it. This ball joint on the tie end needs to be separated from the knuckle so we can turn the knuckle and help push the axle out. So I'm going to remove the cotter pin that's in here. Kind of bend it back with some needle nose pliers. Pull it out.
Now we can remove this castle nut and separate the tie rod end. Spray some rust penetrant on here to help this castle nut come off. 17 millimeter box wrench. Break it free. It's on here pretty tight. Going to use a mallet to break it free. Try to pop this out. This actually came up pretty easily. If this ball joint was stuck in place, you could try to hit here with a hammer to break it free. It sits on a taper. You run the risk of breaking this knuckle if you're hitting it really hard with a hammer.
It's recommended you use a ball joint separator. It just sort of goes on like here and then as you turn it, it separates the ball joint out. It usually snaps out when it breaks free. This one luckily came loose. Pop it right out. Place it aside.
We have already replaced this ball joint, but we need to remove it to pull the axle out. Sometimes these bolts, or these nuts on these studs could be 17 millimeter. On our new one they're 19mm. This is still 17mm on this bolt.
I'm going to start with the 17 millimeter bolt and remove that. Remove these 19 millimeter nuts. I'm going to pull down on the control arm and push up on the knuckle. Pop it out of there. All right. I need to tap the axle through the hub assembly. Just going to use a big dead blow mallet. I've got the nut on here. Just tap it out. Now it's going to come free so I can take the nut out. I'm going to reach behind here and pull it straight out as I separate it from the knuckle. Can turn the knuckle as need be. Stuck in here. Push this out. All right. See the axle is just in the transmission right now.
Get a drain pan ready to catch any transmission fluid that might come out the opening once we remove the axle. Take a pry bar and go right under the edge of the CV axle, up against the transmission and try to pry it out. I'm also holding this end of the axle so it doesn't fall out completely. There it is. Reach up and try to pull it straight out so I don't damage the transmission seal. Then I'm just going to feed it right out of the wheel well.
Here's our old CV axle from our vehicle and our brand new one from 1aauto.com. There's no core on this. It's ready to go. You can see it's the same length, same style, splines that go into the transmission with the lock ring. It's got our ABS tone ring. Has a new axle nut. Also, has the spot where it will get staked when were done. This should fit in the vehicle great and get you back on the road.
This end needs to go in the transmission. We're going to go straight in with it. Switch hands. I can go underneath. I want to guide this straight into the transmission making sure not to damage the axle seal. Kind of find the splines. Just wiggle it in. Once it gets pretty close, I can then take the dead blow mallet and hit it home. There it is. You're going to get the new axle through the hub assembly. Try to turn it. Got the axle nut handy because we're going to capture it after it goes through. Just going to put it right here. Push this away. Want to go all the way in. Might have to turn it. It get lined up with the splines. It'll push through. We're going to grab that axle nut and put it on so it doesn't pop back through. Pull this lower arm down. Move the knuckle over. Get these studs caught. Also, turn this. Get them lined up. Get the bolt caught first. Get these nuts caught. I'm going to snug these down before I torque them. Torque these two nuts and the bolt to 55 foot-pounds.
Reinstall the tie rod end. Turn the knuckle. Reinstall the castle nut. Turn it down a little more. Cotter pin hole lined up. Install a new cotter pin. Install a new cotter pin. Bend it over with my needle nose pliers. With someone holding the brake for you, torque the axle nut to 217 foot-pounds. Now, with it torqued, instead of using a cotter pin, we need to stake this axle nut. So I'm going to use a punch. I'm going to bend the metal right into this groove that's in the axle.
If you've gotten this brake rotor all greasy from touching it, you just want to take some brake parts cleaner and clean it off before you drive the car. Wipe off anything excess with a rag. Those look like rust spots, they'll come right off as soon as you drive it. You just don't want any grease on here.
Reinstall our wheel. Important to note, these lug nuts have a taper. A taper meets the wheel, matches the inside of the wheel. Don't install them with the flat side like this. That is incorrect. Install them with the taper to the wheel. It helps locate the wheel on the lug nut side. I'm just using a socket and ratchet to bring these down snug before I put the car on the ground. Torque the lug nuts to 76 foot pounds. Going in a cross pattern. Reinstall the hub cap. Got to line up the opening of the valve stem with the valve stem on the wheel. Just push it in place.
Thanks for watching. Visit us at 1AAuto.com for quality auto parts, fast and free shipping, and the best customer service in the industry.
