Replaces
Part Details
Our control arms are designed to be direct replacements for the original factory parts. They are 100% brand new and require no modifications for installation. No special tools are required because all of the bushings come pre-installed.
Our steering and suspension components are pre-greased and sealed for long life and do not require the extra maintenance typically required by greaseable versions.
Item Condition:
New
Attention California Customers:
WARNING: This product can expose you to chemicals including Lead and Lead Compounds, which are known to the State of California to cause cancer, and birth defects or other reproductive harm. For more information, go to www.P65Warnings.ca.gov.
Lifetime Warranty
This item is backed by our limited lifetime warranty. In the event that this item should fail due to manufacturing defects during intended use, we will replace the part free of charge. This warranty covers the cost of the part only.
FREE Shipping is standard on orders shipped to the lower 48 States (Contiguous United States). Standard shipping charges apply to Hawaii and Alaska.
Shipping is not available to a P.O. Box, APO/FPO/DPO addresses, US Territories, or Canada for this item.
Expedited is available on checkout to the United States, excluding Alaska, Hawaii.
Final shipping costs are available at checkout.
Created on:
Tools used
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Hi, I'm Mike from 1A Auto. I hope this how-to video helps you out, and next time you need parts for your vehicle, think of 1AAuto.com. Thanks!
In this video, we're going to be working with our 1998 Toyota Camry. We're going to show you how to remove and replace your lateral link in the rear.
This is essentially a tie rod for the rear of your vehicle, in the same way, we have an inner and outer tie rod in the front. This has an adjusting sleeve in the middle that allows us to stick the rear of the spindle farther out for tow-in or pull the rear in toward the subframe, here, for more tow-out to make sure we have a better alignment and a vehicle that goes down the road straight and wears tires evenly.
If you like this video, please click 'Subscribe'. We have a ton more information on this car, as well as many other makes and models. If you need this part for your vehicle, you can follow the link down in the description over to 1AAuto.com.
Here are the items you'll need for this repair: 19mm, 24mm sockets, wrenches, ratchet, and socket extensions; breaker bar; torque wrench; tape measure; and jack and jack stands.
Grab on to the hub cap and remove it from the wheel. We're going to use a 21mm socket and breaker bar to remove all five lug nuts. We'll crack them loose now. Raise and support the vehicle, and then finish removing the lugs. We've put our vehicle on a lift to make it easier to film for you, but this job can be easily done with a jack and jack stands. Remove the wheel and tire.
Using a 19mm socket and a breaker bar, loosen the nut on the spindle side of our lateral link. Now that the nut has been broken loose, finish removing it with our socket and ratchet. Using a 19mm breaker bar on one end, and we're using another 19mm breaker bar to support the bolt,—but you could use a wrench if you can get in there with it—and we're going to break the nut loose and finish removing it with a ratchet. We'll repeat this step on the opposite nut so we could remove this bracket and slide our lateral link off. Now that we've got the nuts off, we can remove this plate and remove our lateral links from the vehicle. You may have to tap or pry these off a little bit.
Here, we have our old trailing arm that we removed from our vehicle and our new part from 1AAuto.com. As you can see, both parts are exactly the same. These are clocked a little differently because of the adjusting sleeve in the middle. We'll deal with that in a little bit. This one is missing the joint on the end, because ours was frozen to the bolt. We had to end up breaking off the arm, and then cutting through the sleeve to be able to remove everything, and install our new arm.
This arm allows us to adjust the rear of our spindle either in or out to adjust the tow of the rear spindle. This makes sure that our vehicle goes down the road straight and smooth, and wears tires evenly. If you have a bad lateral link, or a frozen one that's preventing you from aligning the rear end, this new part from 1A Auto is going to go in direct fit just like your original equipment and fix you up right.
Before installing our lateral link, we'll measure the distance from the inside edge of the islet to the inside edge of the opposite islet. We're getting just about 18 1/2" here. We'll go ahead and get our new one close so we'll be able to safely drive our vehicle to go get an alignment.
Now, we'll loosen both of the locking nuts so we can move our adjusting sleeve. Now that we've got it set to just about the right length, go ahead and bring the lock nuts back down. We'll tighten these up when they're in the vehicle just because it will be a little bit easier. If we get them snug for now, then it shouldn't rotate and cause us any issue going in.
Reinstall the lateral link with the shorter of the two ends facing in. We'll reinstall that plate over the ends of our lateral links, as well as the two 19mm nuts. Then we'll install the washer and the nut on the spindle side. We'll tighten all these down with a 19mm socket and ratchet. Torque these bolts to 134 ft/lbs.
Now, we'll just lock those lock nuts into place using a 24mm wrench, here. Then we'll take our vehicle to get a proper 4-wheel alignment. Reinstall the wheel and tire. Get all the lug nuts down as tight as you can by hand. Lower the vehicle carefully back onto the wheel and tire. Torque the lug nuts to 76 ft/lbs in a cross pattern. Line up the notch in the hub cap over the valve stem. Tap the hub cap back into place.
Thanks for tuning in. We hope this video helped you out. Next time you need parts for your car, please visit 1AAuto.com. Also check out our other helpful how-to and diagnosis videos.
