1996 Toyota Camry V6 3.0L Front Ceramic Brake Pad & Rotor Kit TRQ BKA10547

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Hi, I'm Mike Green. I'm one of the owners of 1A Auto. I want to help you save time and money repairing or maintaining your vehicle. I'm going to use my 20-plus years' experience restoring and repairing cars and trucks like this to show you the correct way to install parts from 1AAuto.com. The right parts installed correctly. That's going to save you time and money. Thank you and enjoy the video.

In this video we'll show you how to service the front disc brakes on this 1994 Camry, pretty much the same as any 1992 to 1996 Camry. The tools you'll need are a large flat-blade screwdriver, a 21 mm socket and ratchet or your lug wrench, 14 and 17 mm sockets with ratchet, a torque wrench, a large C-clamp and a jack and jack stands.

First we'll remove the hubcap. Use a large screwdriver or a pry bar. Remove the lug nuts from your wheel. I've got a 21 mm socket and I have an air wrench. You can obviously leave your car on the ground, use your lug wrench or a 21 mm socket and wrench to get them off.

As you can see I've turned the wheels, and to remove the caliper which you need to do to remove the pads you've got two 14 mm bolts, one here and then one up here. You can remove the caliper and the pads and then if you want to replace the rotor, which actually this car the rotors look really good. If you did want to replace the rotors you've got bolts that need a 17 mm bolt here and then one down lower right there.

Remove these 14 mm bolts just using a regular wrench. You can see that it's not hard to do. It's just going to take some pressure but not a ton. The other bolt is removed. Use your screwdriver and pull the caliper right off. Support it up here. Here are my pads. I'm just using my screwdriver to pry them out. You can see that they're pretty well worn, but as I said my disc is nice. What you want to do is just kind of take the back of your fingernail and run it back and forth across there. If it's nice and smooth then you're okay. If it has any deep grooves or gouges in it you'll want to replace them.

If your discs are in bad shape and you want to replace them, it is 17 mm bolts down in here. These ones are going to be quite a bit more torque to get them loose. I always like to hang up and hang down. That's usually the best way to get torque on them, or stand on the wrench. That comes off and once that bracket is off the disc for the rotor generally just comes right off. Just to show you, if you do order new discs from 1A Auto, they are going to go on there just like the originals and work for you. Like I said, these are in good shape, and I'm not a person to waste good discs. I'll put those back on.

One thing you'll want to do is take these little pins out. These look nice. They are well lubricated. They slide well. You can either take them out or just make sure that they slide back and forth with no drag. Tighten these up to the foot panels. Here are the old pads, new pads from 1A Auto. You can see they've got quite a bit more meat on them and they even have the plates and everything. They actually just kind of go down into the little. Just squeeze them together. Next, you're going to want to use a C-clamp and you're going to want to force the piston back into the caliper here. You can see the piston right in there. I'm just going to keep this C-clamp right on there and it goes back in pretty easy without a whole lot of pressure. You probably can loosen up your cap on your brake fluid reservoir and make sure it's not overfull because it will leak out if there is too much in there.

Before you install your caliper you'll want to put this little spring back in. Just kind of keeps them apart so they don't squeeze on the rotor. What we did with that C-clamp is we pushed this piston back in. Now this will go down on there very nice. Now the two 14 mm bolts. These 14 mm bolts you'll need to tighten up to about 25-foot pounds. I've got a wrench holding the stud that they're going into. Okay, and 25-foot pounds is not a lot, but it is the right amount. Let's see here. These don't really do any of the braking. The braking energy is absorbed by that big bracket. These just kind of hold that caliper in place and let it float. Now we'll do the other side and then put the wheel back on and when you put the wheel back on you want to torque the lug nuts to 100-foot pounds and then before you drive your car anywhere you want to get in, start it up and pump the brakes a few times to make sure that piston gets back out and the brakes are working. They'll take a few pumps to the brakes to make sure that everything is back where it should be. Then before you drive your care just put it in gear, make sure the brakes hold then do a stop from 5 miles an hour before you go out and test it on the road.

Here we've put the wheel on. I am just preliminarily tightening up the lug nuts with an air gun, and now I'm tightening them to 100-foot pounds using a star pattern with the torque wrench. Install the center cover; line up the indent on your valve stem there.

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