About TRQ: TRQ is a trusted brand dedicated to making every repair a success story by combining premium parts with easy installation. Each TRQ part is engineered by a team of automotive experts to meet or exceed OEM standards, delivering enhanced performance and maximum longevity. With rigorous in-house testing, the brand ensures superior fit and function across every product line. TRQ also provides customers with best-in-class, step-by-step installation videos—so you can complete repairs with confidence, whether you're a first-time DIYer or an industry professional.
Product Features
Loaded Struts: Pre-assembled application specific design
Application Specific Design: No modifications necessary
Matched Pair: Improved comfort and extended service life
Restored Performance: Reduced body sway and vibration
Description
TRQ fully loaded shocks and struts are manufactured using premium raw materials and calibrated to restore original ride comfort. TRQ shocks are fully loaded featuring a pre-loaded bearing plate, upper and lower spring isolator, upper spring seat, coil spring, boot kit, and premium strut. TRQ recommends replacing your shocks or struts in pairs to ensure even wear of components and improved ride comfort. All products are fit and road-tested in our Massachusetts R&D facility to ensure we deliver on our promise of Trusted Reliable Quality.
Replacing struts used to require specialized tools to compress, remove, and transfer the old spring and mount. Our Pre-assembled, complete strut & spring assemblies come with all new parts and make the job much quicker and easier for the do-it-yourself mechanic.
Strut & spring assembly contains:
Upper Strut Mount
Strut Bearing
Coil Spring
Boot & Bumper Kit
Gas-charged Strut
Attention California Customers:
WARNING: This product can expose you to chemicals including Chromium (Hexavalent Compounds), which is known to the State of California to cause cancer, and birth defects or other reproductive harm. For more information, go to www.P65Warnings.ca.gov
This part fits
4 vehicles spanning 2006-2012.
Fits these Makes
Select vehicle
Year
Make
Model
Description
2007-2008
Lexus
ES350
Lexus ES350 Front Driver & Passenger Side 2 Piece Strut & Spring Assembly Set TRQ SCA57034
2006
Toyota
Avalon
Toyota Avalon From 1/01/06 Production Date Front Driver & Passenger Side 2 Piece Strut & Spring Assembly Set TRQ SCA57034
2007-2012
Toyota
Avalon
Toyota Avalon Front Driver & Passenger Side 2 Piece Strut & Spring Assembly Set TRQ SCA57034
2007-2011
Toyota
Camry
Toyota Camry Front Driver & Passenger Side 2 Piece Strut & Spring Assembly Set TRQ SCA57034
Part Interchange
Brand Label
Part Number
KYB
SR4253
KYB
SR4252
KYB
SR4251
KYB
SR4139
KYB
SR4254
KYB
SR4138
Monroe Shocks & Struts
172307
Monroe Shocks & Struts
182307
Monroe Shocks & Struts
182308
Monroe Shocks & Struts
172308
Unity Automotive
11742
Unity Automotive
11741
Toyota
SR4109
Toyota
SR4108
This item may be interchangeable with parts from other brands with the above part numbers.
This information is provided only for reference and does not guarantee that the item you are
purchasing is identical to parts with part numbers from the brands listed above.
To confirm that this item fits your vehicle, use the above "Check Vehicle Fit" option.
Lifetime Warranty
This item is backed by our limited lifetime warranty. In the event that this item should fail due to manufacturing defects during intended use, we will replace the part free of charge. This warranty covers the cost of the part only.
FREE Shipping is standard on orders shipped to the lower 48 States (Contiguous United States). Standard shipping charges apply to Hawaii and Alaska.
Shipping is not available to a P.O. Box, APO/FPO/DPO addresses, US Territories, or Canada for this item.
Expedited is available on checkout to the United States, excluding Alaska, Hawaii.
Final shipping costs are available at checkout.
How to Replace Front Strut Assembly 2007-11 Toyota Camry
Created on:
Tools used
Socket Extensions
Torque Wrench
14mm Socket
15mm Socket
Rust Penetrant
17mm Socket
Jack Stands
Brake Parts Cleaner
22mm Wrench
Ratchet
Floor Jack
1/2 Inch Breaker Bar
22mm Socket
1. Removing the Wheel
Pry off the hub cap with a pry bar
Loosen the lug nuts with the vehicle on the ground
Raise and support the vehicle
Remove the lug nuts
Pull the wheel off the hub
2. Removing the Sway Bar Link
Remove the 12mm bolt from the ABS brake line
Pry off the plastic clip from the strut
Move the caliper and ABS line out of the way
Spray rust penetrant on the upper sway bar link nut
Clean the upper sway bar link nut with a wire brush
Hold the upper sway bar link nut with a 6mm hex socket and breaker bar
Loosen the nut with a 17mm wrench
If the nut is stuck, hold the sway bar link ball joint with locking pliers if necessary
Remove the 17mm nut
Move the sway bar out of the strut
3. Removing the Front Strut
Remove the two lower 22mm strut nuts
Remove the bottom bolt and leave the top bolt in
Loosen the three outer 14mm nuts from the top of the strut evenly
Remove the nuts
Lift the strut up and remove the bottom bolt
Remove the strut
4. Installing the Front Strut
Insert the strut into the strut tower
Hand-tighten the top 14mm bolts
Lift the knuckle into the strut
Insert the two bottom 22mm bolts
Hand-tighten the bottom nuts
Tighten the 15mm nuts on the top of the strut evenly
Torque the upper nuts to 63 foot-pounds evenly
Tighten the bottom bolts
Torque both bolts to 155 foot-pounds while counter-holding
5. Installing the Sway Bar Link
Slide the sway bar link where it attaches to the strut
Tighten the nuts with an 18mm socket and ratchet
Torque the 18mm nuts to 55 foot-pounds
Tighten the 12mm bolt to the ABS line
Clip in the lines to the knuckle
6. Installing the Wheel
Slide the wheel onto the hub
Start the lug nuts by hand, with the tapered side facing the wheel
Tighten the lug nuts preliminarily
Lower the vehicle to the ground
Torque the lug nuts to 76 foot-pounds in a star pattern
Line up the hub cap with the valve stem
Push the hub cap onto the wheel
Hi, I’m Mike from 1A Auto. We’ve been selling auto parts for over 30 years!
Use a large pry bar or a flat bladed screw driver to remove the wheel cover. Just kind of slide it between the wheel and the plastic and pop it off. These lug nuts are a 21 millimeter socket. I'm going to use that and a breaker bar to loosen them while the vehicle's on the ground. Raise this part of the vehicle. We're using a two post lift, but you can use a jack and jack stands. The lug nuts are loose. I’m going to take my socket and finish removing them. I’m just going to hold onto the wheel and take the last lug nut off. It's going to be loose. You don't want to drop it. You can drop the lug nut. That's okay. You just don't want the wheel to fall.
After removing your wheel and raising and supporting the vehicle, we're going to remove the bolt that is holding on the brake line and the ABS wire from the strut. Bolt goes all the way through. It's a threaded nut, so I'm just going to spray some rust penetrant on the back side. A little bit up here. This is a 12 millimeter bolt. Push the brake caliper line down, and then this ABS line just pulls out of the bracket and can go aside. It's also clipped with a piece of plastic to the strut. You just pull these two tabs apart it pops out of the holes, so that will be loose from the strut now. Just push those aside.
Next thing to remove would be the upper sway bar link. We've already replaced this one. We had to cut ours off. Most likely you will have to cut yours off too before you do the strut. You can get new sway bar links from 1AAuto.com. On the one that we have, the replacement it is an 18-millimeter nut and then an 18 millimeter. There's a socket. Sort of like a six point on the back, so you can counter-hold it to remove it. Our originals did not have that. It made it very difficult to remove them, and we had to cut them off. If these get bound up a little bit you can take a small hammer and just tap them out.
Next, I'm going to remove the two lower strut bolts that are mounting it to the knuckle. Start with some rust penetrant on here. A little bit between there. These are 22 millimeter. They're very, very big, so I'm going to counter-hold on the end of the bolt and I'm going to loosen at the nut. I'm going to use a 12-point 22 millimeter so I can get a better angle. I'm just going to push it down to free that one up. Work on the bottom one. Worst case, I can go under here. Once they're initially broken free, you can switch to a socket and a ratchet and finish removing them.
With the nuts removed, I'm going to take a small ball-peen hammer, and I'm going to tap out the lower bolts. If you need to, you can push on the knuckle a little bit to free it up. I'm going to leave the top one in for now because I want to loosen the three nuts that are holding the strut to the strut tower, and if this bolt is out and I loosen them the strut could fall, so it's just going to help me keep the strut where I need it to be right now.
I'm going to spray some rust penetrant on the top of these studs and nuts that are holding the strut in. Do not need to loosen the center nut. That is what's holding the strut together and the spring under compression, so don't touch this nut. Just these three outer ones. These are 14 millimeter. I'm just going to start by loosening them all evenly. It did drop down, but since I had it bolted to this knuckle, it didn't fall out on me. You can actually lift up on it. Pull this bolt out. Wiggle it. It's going to come off the knuckle. Pull it right out.
Here's our old strut assembly and a brand new assembled strut from 1AAuto.com. That means you don't have swap over the spring, and you don't have to swap over the mount. It's all ready to go and bolt right into the car. These right and left specific, so just like the OEM one it's got a little R here. On our new one from 1A Auto, it's got an R there, so that's going go on the passenger's side front.
Right-hand side of the car. It has the same mounting holes for the strut, same mount setup for the sway bar link, and of course, where I was pointing out the R, it's the same mount for the brake line and ABS line. At the top, we have the same style strut top. There's actually a warning sticker here. It's telling you not to undo this nut, so we can peel that off before we install it. This one came with three new locking nuts. I'm going to take them off before I install it, but this should fit in your car and work great for you.
We're going to take our new strut and put it up into the strut tower and line up the holes. I'm just going to capture some of these nuts. We can let it hang like that, that's fine. I'm going to one of our bolts and make it lined up into the knuckle. You might have to actually lift it up. If you need to you can put a jack under here. I'm going to get the other bolt in. I'm just going to thread in on these nuts for now. Now I'm going to go to the top of the strut and I can start tightening down. These new lock nuts are 15 millimeter. I'm going to start tightening them down just evenly bringing the strut up. The torque on these is 63-foot-pounds. I'm just going to go evenly. Just going to take our socket and snug these down before I torque them to the final spec. I'm going to torque these to 155-foot-pounds. Make sure you counter-hold the bolt. Do the same for both bolts. I'm going to reinstall the sway bar link. Counter-hold the sway bar link. Tighten it, so with the upper sway bar link to 55-foot-pounds.
Reinstall the ABS wire bracket because tabs where it slides into the hole. That's where it fits over. This is a little tight. I'm just going to tap it into place. Put the brake fluid line back up here. The bolt line up. Clip the ABS retainer right back onto here.
Reinstall your wheel. Lower your vehicle to the ground and torque it. The strut is replaced. Reinstall our wheel. Important to note, these lug nuts have a taper. Taper meets the wheel, matches the inside of the wheel. Don't install them the flat side like this. That is incorrect. Install them with the taper to the wheel. It helps locate the wheel on the lug nut stud. I'm just using a socket and ratchet to bring these down snug before I put the car on the ground. Torque the lug nuts to 76-foot-pounds. I'm going at a cross pattern. Reinstall the hubcap. You've got to line up the opening to the valve stem with the valve stem on the wheel. Just push it in place.
Thanks for watching. Visit us at 1AAuto.com for quality auto parts, fast and free shipping, and the best customer service in the industry.
SCA57034
In Stock
Product Reviews
4.7/ 5
★★★★★★★★★★
32 reviews
5★
91%
4★
3%
3★
0%
2★
0%
1★
6%
★★★★★March 14, 2026
Awesome product an great price.
Get product rides smooth .
★★★★★June 24, 2025
Good stuff all the parts I order the como right the way
★★★★★February 9, 2025
Fit and finish are great. Delivered on time. I've been purchasing parts from this company for a number of years now. I have only had one part that had an issue and they took care of it right away.absslutly great company to deal with
★★★★★February 5, 2025
Everything as stated!
Fast shipping! Great price! Fix perfectly ??
★★★★★November 11, 2024
Great quality
★★★★★October 30, 2024
These strut replacements are great
These strut replacements operate just like OEM parts . Yes I would recommend these .
★★★★★October 23, 2024
Good struts
Worked great. Installation video makes it easier.
★★★★★September 30, 2024
2007 Camry w/ 344K
Exact Replacement. 1A Auto "How To" videos include the torque specs which saves time and effort while increasing your comfort level to tackle the job. Their FAST / FREE shipping and huge inventory make them my go-to solution!
★★★★★August 27, 2024
Exellent cuality
★★★★★June 29, 2024
Great Quality
Parts worked out great on my car. Quality product!
Showing 1–10 of 32 reviews
Customer Q&A
Got a question about this part? Post it and get answers from our team.
JohnMarch 23, 2023
will these fit for 2011 toyota camry XLE V6 model?
Yes, this part will fit your vehicle.
Ricale · March 23, 2023
EdgarJune 1, 2022
The SE has stiffer suspension so are these the right ones for the SE trim level?
These are not specific to trim level.
Please enter your vehicle's year make and model in the search bar at the top of the page. This will display parts guaranteed to fit your vehicle. Just be sure to verify all of the information shown in the Vehicle Fit tab before ordering.
Cristina · June 1, 2022
DiegoJuly 1, 2020
i have a 2007 Toyota Camry Hybrid it was manufactured in the USA. do i have to make sure that the struts are for a toyota made in the USA?
Thank you for the inquiry. Based off the information we have for our parts and the compatible vehicles we produce these to fit, the production country does not play a role with the front struts. These are listed to be compatible for all 2007-2011 Camry's.
curtis · July 1, 2020
SFebruary 13, 2020
Will this part fit a 2005 avalon?
At this time we do not sell strut and spring assemblies for that particular vehicle. Please let us know if we can be of any further assistance and we will be happy to help. Thank you.
Peter · February 13, 2020
CourtneyJuly 29, 2019
Will these fit a 2008 GS Lexus?
Thanks for your inquiry. This part is specific to the ES350. We will need more information about your vehicle to confirm the fit. Please give us a call and we will be happy to help you out.
Adam · July 29, 2019
AlfonsoApril 10, 2018
How often does the struts shock need to be replaced?
145,000
Martha · July 4, 2020
KMarch 9, 2018
Are these as good as the Monroe strut&spring assembly?
I replaced my factory struts. They are working just fine.
Andre · March 10, 2018
NicholasJuly 19, 2017
Is this a OEM matched replacement?
These are designed to meet or exceed OE specifications. The fit, function and appearance should match the OEM parts.
Alex · July 19, 2017
Showing 1–8 of 8 questions
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