★★★★★
May 13, 2026
Basically still regular breaks and rotors nothing special better off getting the regular one says high performance stop I don't see it
Replaces
Part Details
Specifications
About TRQ:
TRQ is a trusted brand dedicated to making every repair a success story by combining premium parts with easy installation. Each TRQ part is engineered by a team of automotive experts to meet or exceed OEM standards, delivering enhanced performance and maximum longevity. With rigorous in-house testing, the brand ensures superior fit and function across every product line. TRQ also provides customers with best-in-class, step-by-step installation videos—so you can complete repairs with confidence, whether you're a first-time DIYer or an industry professional.
Product Features
Attention California Customers:
WARNING: This product can expose you to chemicals including Lead and Lead Compounds, which are known to the State of California to cause cancer, and birth defects or other reproductive harm. For more information, go to www.P65Warnings.ca.gov.
This part fits 6 vehicles spanning 2007-2012.
| Year | Make | Model | Description |
|---|---|---|---|
| 2007-2012 | Lexus | ES350 | Lexus ES350 Front & Rear Ceramic Premium G-Coated Performance Brake Pad & Rotor Kit TRQ Performance BKA12186 |
| 2008-2012 | Toyota | Avalon | Toyota Avalon Front & Rear Ceramic Premium G-Coated Performance Brake Pad & Rotor Kit TRQ Performance BKA12186 |
| 2007 | Toyota | Camry | Toyota Camry Japan Built Models (1st VIN Digit J) Front & Rear Ceramic Premium G-Coated Performance Brake Pad & Rotor Kit TRQ Performance BKA12186 |
| 2008-2009 | Toyota | Camry | Toyota Camry Front & Rear Ceramic Premium G-Coated Performance Brake Pad & Rotor Kit TRQ Performance BKA12186 |
| 2010 | Toyota | Camry | Toyota Camry excluding Japan Built Models Front & Rear Ceramic Premium G-Coated Performance Brake Pad & Rotor Kit TRQ Performance BKA12186 |
| 2011 | Toyota | Camry | Toyota Camry Front & Rear Ceramic Premium G-Coated Performance Brake Pad & Rotor Kit TRQ Performance BKA12186 |
| Brand Label | Part Number |
|---|---|
| Raybestos Brakes | SGD1212C |
| Raybestos Brakes | MGD1212CH |
| Raybestos Brakes | EHT1212H |
| Aimco | 31433 |
| DuraGo | BR900342 |
| Bendix | PRT5713 |
| Bendix | PRT5712 |
| Raybestos Brakes | 980973 |
| Aimco | 31434 |
| DuraGo | BR900340 |
| Wagner | BD126407 |
| Raybestos Brakes | 980781 |
| Raybestos Brakes | 980467 |
| Raybestos Brakes | 980470 |
| Bendix | PRT6155 |
| Wagner | BD126489 |
| Lexus | 446533450 |
| Toyota | 446633180 |
| Toyota | 446606060 |
| Toyota | 446606200 |
| Lexus | 446606090 |
| Toyota | 446633160 |
| Lexus | 446633180 |
| Lexus | 446633200 |
| Toyota | 1446633210 |
| Lexus | 446506100 |
| Toyota | 446506100 |
| Lexus | 446633160 |
| Lexus | 446507010 |
| Toyota | 446606090 |
| Lexus | 446533471 |
| Lexus | 446533470 |
| Toyota | 446533450 |
| Toyota | 446602220 |
| Pontiac | 19184917 |
| Toyota | 446507010 |
| Lexus | 446642060 |
| Toyota | 446507020 |
| Toyota | 446642060 |
| FMSI | CD1212 |
| FMSI | CD1293 |
| FMSI | CD1222 |
| Raybestos Brakes | EHT1222H |
| Raybestos Brakes | MGD1222CH |
| Raybestos Brakes | SGD1222C |
| Toyota | 446506070 |
| Lexus | 446533440 |
| Sangsin | SP4020 |
| Sangsin | SP2081B |
| General Motors | 19184294 |
| Dura Corp | BR90034002 |
| Raybestos Brakes | 980781R |
| Promax | 20-31434 |
| Raybestos Brakes | 980467P |
| Centric Parts | 321.44146 |
| Bosch | 50011486 |
| DuraGo | 900340 |
| Autoxtra | AX900340 |
| Casting Numbers | 326282 |
| Centric Parts | 227.44146R |
| Omnicraft | QBRR155 |
| Raybestos Brakes | 980470R |
| AutoZone | DL44582 |
| Ultra Brake | TO-6000 |
| Promax | 14-31434 |
| Advance Auto Parts | YH145713C |
| Wagner Brake | BD126407 |
| Dynamic Friction Company | 604-76080 |
| Toyota | 4351202250 |
| TruStar | 479615 |
| Centric Parts | 120.44146CRY |
| BrakeBest | 980470 |
| Centric Parts | 127.44146R |
| BrakeBest | 50011486 |
| Raybestos Brakes | 980467R |
| NAPA BRAKES | SDK6253 |
| BrakeBest | 980470R |
| Toyota | 4351242050 |
| Qualis | 44582 |
| Advance Auto Parts | YH145713P |
| Dura Corp | BR31434 |
| Centric Parts | 128.44146CR |
| Centric Parts | 227.44146L |
| Centric Parts | 127.44146CL |
| PowerStop | JBR1127EVC |
| BrakeBest | 50011459 |
| Advance Auto Parts | N1000301784BRC |
| Advance Auto Parts | 40551128501 |
| AutoZone | 44582DG |
| Centric Parts | 127.44146CR |
| Hollander | 533-50153 |
| Raybestos Brakes | 980973P |
| Parts Master | 900340 |
| Centric Parts | 320.44146 |
| Raybestos Brakes | 980781P |
| Centric Parts | 126.44146SR |
| TRW | 4828 |
| BrakeBest | 980470FZN |
| Centric Parts | 128.44146L |
| Toyota | 43512-0R020 |
| AutoZone | 44582 |
| UAP | 31434 |
| DuraGo | BR90034002 |
| Dura Corp | BR900340 |
| Raybestos Brakes | 980470FZN |
| Centric Parts | 128.44146R |
| Winhere | 6621436 |
| Toyota | 4351206090 |
| General Motors | 19205637 |
| Raybestos Brakes | 980973FZN |
| Centric Parts | 127.44146L |
| Centric Parts | 121.44146 |
| Wagner Brake | BD126407E |
| Newtek Automotive USA | 31434 |
| Centric Parts | 120.44146 |
| Raybestos Brakes | 980470P |
| Raybestos Brakes | 980973R |
| Wagner Brake | 31434 |
| Toyota | 4351233130 |
| Raybestos Brakes | 980467FZN |
| Centric Parts | 126.44146CSR |
| Bosch | 50011459 |
| Centric Parts | 128.44146CL |
| Centric Parts | 126.44146CSL |
| Monroe Brakes | BD126407 |
| AutoZone | 44582DL |
| Omnicraft | QBRR611 |
| WABCO - Archived | PS900340 |
| BrakeBest | 980470RGS |
| Centric Parts | 126.44146SL |
| Raybestos Brakes | 980781FZN |
This item may be interchangeable with parts from other brands with the above part numbers. This information is provided only for reference and does not guarantee that the item you are purchasing is identical to parts with part numbers from the brands listed above. To confirm that this item fits your vehicle, use the above "Check Vehicle Fit" option.
Lifetime Warranty
This item is backed by our limited lifetime warranty. In the event that this item should fail due to manufacturing defects during intended use, we will replace the part free of charge. This warranty covers the cost of the part only.
FREE Shipping is standard on orders shipped to the lower 48 States (Contiguous United States). Standard shipping charges apply to Hawaii and Alaska.
Shipping is not available to a P.O. Box, APO/FPO/DPO addresses, US Territories, or Canada for this item.
Expedited is available on checkout to the United States, excluding Alaska, Hawaii.
Final shipping costs are available at checkout.
Created on:
Tools used
Hi. I'm Mike from 1A Auto. We've been selling auto parts for over 30 years.
Use a pry bar, or a large flat-bladed screwdriver to remove the hubcap. Just gonna slide it under the edge. Put that aside. Take a breaker bar and a 21 millimeter socket, and loosen the lug nuts with the car still on the ground.
Raise and support the vehicle. Now you can finish removing the wheel. These lug nuts are pretty loose, so I'm just going to use the socket and take them off. I'm removing the last lug nut. I'm just going to hold onto the wheel so that it doesn't fall off and take it right off.
Start by removing the two caliper pin bolts--one on the bottom and one on the top. Use a 14 millimeter. It actually broke free without having to use the mallet.
If it's tight, you can take a mallet and just tap it to break it free. You can squeeze the caliper a little bit by pulling it out. It should slide right off the pads. Take a bungee cord and just hang it up and out of the way.
So I'm going to use a small pry bar, or you can use a flat-bladed screwdriver. You need to pop them away from the brake rotor and out of the caliper bracket. Remove the caliper bracket bolts. There's two at the back--one on the top and one on the bottom. They're 14 millimeter. They can be in there pretty tight. Use a box wrench and a mallet and break them free.
Going to get the bottom one loose and then work on the top one. See that they've broken free--you can switch to a ratcheting wrench. Got it pretty loose, just got to remove the bottom one with my fingers. Put that aside and reuse it, and get the top one out. Pull the bracket out, and the bolt out.
This car is missing a rubber plug that goes in the rotor here. The rubber plug is so you can access the parking brake mechanism to release it. Somebody just put some duct tape over it. I'm going to peel it off. Inside here is the mechanism. I'm going to try to pull it off first, though, 'cause sometimes it's loose enough, you don't need to release it.
Parking brake's not on--it is spinning free. I can spray some rust penetrant around the hub. A little bit in here. We'll take our dead blow mallet. I'm gonna hit around the edge here to try to break it free.
Sometimes you'll get lucky. These might come off, but they usually get stuck on the parking brake shoes. Need to release the adjustment. It's very hard to see right now, but through this opening, it normally has a rubber plug on it. It had some duct tape on it. We removed it. Take a flat-bladed screwdriver. We're gonna spin it. Trying to grab the little tabs on there and spin it up, it's in a little wheel. Make sure I'm going the right way. You can check and see I went the wrong way. It locked it, so it's going to be actually spun down.
You basically just have to spin that wheel down and keep retracting the parking brake shoes in, so the converter will come free. When you adjust it, you're going through the rotor and into this hole, and then you're pushing down on it. And that spins the parking brake shoes in to release them.
Here's our original pads and rotors from our vehicle, our brand new ones from 1AAuto.com. Same exact style of rotor. Pads are same design--same lug pattern, pusher bolts, holes if you need to, the same access hole for the parking brake, which rides on the inside of the brake rotor hub here. These should fit great and work great for you.
We're going to clean and reuse our brake caliper hardware. It's in the caliper bracket, and I'm going to use the brake parts cleaner. Let's take a wire brush. Use the brake parts cleaner and a rag, and just wipe it down. Typically this hardware is stainless steel, so it can be reused. It doesn't get very rusty. And repeat it for the other side.
Now's is a good time while we have this out, just make sure that your caliper slide pins move freely. These ones move nice and free, and we install that in the car. Install the rotor backwards, take brake parts cleaner, and clean off the oil that comes on these so they don't rust while they're shipped.
Flip it over. Make sure you install it in a way that this hole lines up with one of the openings here so you can adjust the parking brake. Instead of taking the caliper off of our bungee cord, I'm going to take one of the old brake pads, take a ski clamp. And now what I'm going to do is gently compress the caliper, push the piston into the body, and that way when we put our new pads in it'll slide right together. I'm just going to rest the caliper like that.
Take a brake parts cleaner and clean it off. Reinstall our caliper bracket, keep the top one caught first, and it makes it a little bit easier. And I'm going to install the bottom one. It's a little easier, 'cause it just hangs on the top one. Reach in behind here. Put that bracket lined up.
Use the 14 millimeter ratcheting wrench to snug these up. Install our new pads. Just take some brake parts cleaner and make sure they're nice and clean. Brake caliper grease on the ears of them. Inside and outside pads are the same. Let's start with the inside pad. Place it on the bottom clip and push it up into the top clip. It snaps into place. Do the same for the outside one.
We're just following the curve of the pad too, the contoured, so the wider part is gonna match up with the lighter outside part of the rotor--same with the inside part. Just push them down into the clips and squeeze them together. Place the caliper back in place. Reinstall the bolts. Tighten these up. They'll get tight and I will stop.
Torque the caliper bolts to 46 foot-pounds. You need to adjust the drag on the parking brake. You can turn this so you can see the adjuster and then you can put your screwdriver in and just catch the gears in the wheel just right.
So now that's how you'd adjust it so that it's actually really tight. It's holding the brake runner, so now you know where the limit is. You want to back it off a little bit by turning it back down. Eventually if you touch the parking brake pedal it would self adjust out, but this way it just gets it closer right away.
So now I'm going to reach in and turn it down a little bit. So what it's dragging on right now is just the brake pads, but that should spin freely enough. And of course when you hit the parking brake pedal, it should come out and lock the rear wheels.
It's important to note these lug nuts have a taper, taper meets the wheel, matches the inside of the wheel. Don't install them with the flat side like this--that is incorrect. Install them with the taper to the wheel, it helps locate the wheel on the lug nut stud.
I'm just using the socket and ratchet to bring these down snug before I put the car on the ground.
We'll torque the lug nuts to 76 foot-pounds. Going in a cross pattern. We reinstall the hubcap. It'll line up the opening for the valve stem, with the valve stem on the wheel. Just push it in place.
Before we start the car, just going to gently press the brake pedal down, not all the way to the floor, maybe about a quarter of the way, and just pump it, and this will bring the brake caliper piston out to meet the pads, because we can press it, and you'll start to feel it get more solid as it pumps up.
Thanks for watching. Visit us at 1AAuto.com for quality auto parts, fast and free shipping, and the best customer service in the industry.
Tools used
Hi, I’m Mike from 1A Auto. We’ve been selling auto parts for over 30 years!
Use a large pry bar for a flat-bladed screwdriver to remove the wheel cover. I'm just going to slide it between the wheel and the plastic. Pop it off. These lug nuts are a 21 millimeter socket. I'm going to use that and a breaker bar to loosen them while the vehicle's on the ground. Then, raise and support the vehicle. We're using a two post lift, but you can use a jack and jack stands. The lug nuts are loose. I'm going to take the socket and finish removing them. I'm just going to hold on to the wheel. I'll take the last lug nut off. It's going to be loose. I don't want to drop it. Drop the lug nut. That's okay. I just don't want the wheel to fall.
Before I remove the caliper, I'm just going to pull on it and try to compress the piston. That way, it will slide right off. Take a 14 millimeter wrench to loosen the caliper slide bolts. There's one on the top, one on the bottom. They're pretty tight. If they don't want to budge, you can take a mallet to break them free. Same thing on the bottom one. I've got a bungee cord handy, so when I remove these caliper slide bolts, I could hang the caliper from the strut. Let's loop it around. The caliper should slide right off. See, one of our hardware pieces of hardware is actually broken on here. It should go right in there. The pads will slide right out like this.
Two 17 millimeter bolts that are holding the caliper on. There's one on the top and one on the bottom. To break them free, you can use the box wrench and the mallet. We've got these loose. I'm just going to remove them by hand.
The rotor is very loose. We don't want it to accidentally fall. I'm just going to take one of the lug nuts. Just put it on there so it doesn't fall on my feet. Remove the caliper bracket. So we're pretty lucky. This brake rotor's really loose. I'm going to take the lug nut off that I was using to hold it on, just slide it right off the studs and the hub. If it was rusted on, you could thread a couple of small bolts into here and evenly turn them down or push against the hub and push the rotor off.
These are old pads and rotors for our vehicle. I've got brand new ones from 1AAuto.com. So the pad design is very similar. The rotor design is the same. Five lug holes, two pusher holes. It's a ventilated rotor. This will fit great and help the car stop.
Before you put the rotor back on the hub, make sure it's nice and clean, not too rusty. This one's in good shape. If yours is really rusty around the hub here, take a wire brush and knock some of the rust down, clean it off. We're going to take our new rotor, and we'll install it backwards first. Take our brake parts cleaner, and we're going to clean off the oil that they ship with so they don't rust. Grab it, flip it over, install it the correct way. I'm just going to throw a lug not on here so it's not moving all around on me. Take a brake parts cleaner. Clean the surface. I'm just going to wipe down any excess.
You need to compress the cylinder back into the brake caliper. I'm taking the old brake pad, and I've got a C-clamp, and gently compress it. This way, our new pads that are thicker will fit. We need to clean our hardware so we can reuse it. We'll take some brake parts cleaner and just spray it in there. Get a wire brush. Just repeat for the other side. We're going to reinstall our bracket. Get those started by hand. The top one's usually easier to get done first, and you can move this one in and out to line it up. I'm just going to snug them down. Take some brake parts cleaner to just make sure the pad surface is nice and clean before you install them, and put just a tiny amount of brake caliper grease on the ears of the pad. Don't need to go crazy with this stuff.
The inside and outside pads are identical, so I'm going to start with the inside one. Pop it into the bottom, push it in. Repeat for the other pad. Clean it off. Put a little bit of grease on the ears. Replace the spring hardware, put it in place. It's going to balance the caliper. Swing it down. Get the back part caught first. Push that over. Caliper slide bolts and reinstall those. Get a 14 millimeter ratcheting wrench. Tighten them up, and torque the two caliper bracket mounting bolts to 79 foot-pounds. Don't forget to remove the bungee cord you were using. Make sure the brake rotor is clean. Sometimes, you get dirty fingerprints on it. I'm just going to double check that these are tight.
I'm going to reinstall our wheel. It's important to note these lug nuts have a taper. The taper meets the wheel, matches the inside of the wheel. Don't install them with the flat side like this. That is incorrect. Install them with the taper to the wheel. It helps locate the wheel on the lug nut stud. I'm just using the socket and ratchet to bring these down snug before I put the car on the ground, and torque the lug nuts to 76 foot pounds. I'm going in a cross pattern. We'll reinstall the hubcap. I'm going to line up the opening with the valve stem, with the valve stem on the wheel. Just push it in place.
Before we start the car, I'm just going to gently press the brake pedal down. Not all the way to the floor. You need about a quarter of the way, and just pump it. And this will bring the brake caliper piston out to meet the pads, because we compressed it. And you'll start to feel it get more solid as it pumps out.
Thanks for watching. Visit us at 1AAuto.com for quality auto parts, fast and free shipping, and the best customer service in the industry.
BKA12186
Basically still regular breaks and rotors nothing special better off getting the regular one says high performance stop I don't see it
After almost a year front brakes started pulsing when braking, now I have to buy another set in less than a year of having purchased it from 1A auto. I'm not happy about it. :-(
The brakes and discs are professionally packaged and everything bolts straight on. The car stops very smoothly with no problems. Just be aware that you have to use the brakes a few times to get rid of the coating on the disc surface.
Easy install, good replacement parts
Everything works flawlessly took a minute to work on the parking brake which I did not order so take into consideration if you order this set you also need the parking brakes other than that two thumbs up ????????
Great, love them.
Plenty of dust. Other than that, they were ok
I changed out all of the brake rotors and brake pads on a 2007 Camry. All of the parts fit well. All the pieces were in the kit. I installed everything in my garage. The parts looked like quality parts. Now the brakes work super smooth! Very happy with the parts and the videos to install them.
Excellent fit Easy install
I don't have a picture of the product being installed on my son's 2011 Toyota Camry, but one thing I can say for sure, the set of breaks and rotors I ordered arrived promptly, the fit was perfect, the video instructions are magnificent, AH, and don't forget the price, very affordable; it is one of those DIYs that I enjoy doing, they show what tools you need and is super simple, even me and my son not been mechanics were able to do the installation without any challenges. I will recommend 1A Auto to my friends and family. I will buy again the next set for my family's cars. Thanks 1A Auto. -- Thomas Gutierrez.
These are manufactured by TRQ. TRQ is a high quality, high-end name brand that we offer and back with our 1A Auto Limited Lifetime Warranty.
Based off the vehicle information provided, these parts are listed to fit your vehicle.
Thank you for contacting us. Yes, according to the information you provided, this kit will fit your vehicle as long as your OE rotors match the measurements below and your front rotor is vented and your rear is solid. Front Brake Rotor Diameter: 11.65 in. (296mm) Rear Brake Rotor Diameter: 11.06 in. (281mm) Please let us know if you have any other questions!
Yes, as long as your vehicle was manufactured in Japan. You may identify this by the first digit of your VIN number. If this is a "J", the vehicle was manufactured in Japan.
Hello, This kit is only listed for '07 Camrys built in Japan with the first VIN digit of J. Thanks!
The discs on here should not rust prematurely. Please do not hesitate to contact us with any further questions.
This part is specific to vehicles with a particular set of options. We will need more information about your vehicle to confirm the fit.
Yes, as long as your vehicle was manufactured in Japan. You may identify this by the first digit of your VIN number. If this is a "J", the vehicle was manufactured in Japan.
