★★★★★
January 28, 2026
Perfect fit and function.They have been on my 4runner for at least 2 years now.
Replaces
Part Details
About TRQ:
TRQ is a trusted brand dedicated to making every repair a success story by combining premium parts with easy installation. Each TRQ part is engineered by a team of automotive experts to meet or exceed OEM standards, delivering enhanced performance and maximum longevity. With rigorous in-house testing, the brand ensures superior fit and function across every product line. TRQ also provides customers with best-in-class, step-by-step installation videos—so you can complete repairs with confidence, whether you're a first-time DIYer or an industry professional.
Product Features
TRQ brake calipers are made from premium raw materials designed to restore original performance. All TRQ calipers are new, so there will never be a core charge with your TRQ purchase. TRQ brake calipers include upgraded seals, washers, abutment kits and brackets where applicable to ensure a complete repair. TRQ recommends replacing your calipers in pairs with new brake pads and brake rotors to ensure components wear evenly and avoid multiple repairs of the same system. All products are fit and road-tested in our Massachusetts R&D facility to ensure we deliver on our promise of Trusted Reliable Quality.
Attention California Customers:
WARNING: This product can expose you to chemicals including Lead and Lead Compounds, which are known to the State of California to cause cancer, and birth defects or other reproductive harm. For more information, go to www.P65Warnings.ca.gov.
This part fits 10 vehicles spanning 2003-2023.
| Year | Make | Model | Description |
|---|---|---|---|
| 2003-2009 | Toyota | 4Runner | Toyota 4Runner Front Driver & Passenger Side with Caliper Casting #13WG 2 Piece Brake Caliper Set TRQ CLA35380 |
| 2007-2014 | Toyota | FJ Cruiser | Toyota FJ Cruiser Front Driver & Passenger Side with Caliper Casting #13WG 2 Piece Brake Caliper Set TRQ CLA35380 |
| 2005-2014 | Toyota | Tacoma | Toyota Tacoma Front Driver & Passenger Side with Caliper Casting #13WG 2 Piece Brake Caliper Set TRQ CLA35380 |
| 2015 | Toyota | Tacoma | Toyota Tacoma Base Model V6 4.0L Rear Wheel Drive Front Driver & Passenger Side with Caliper Casting #13WG 2 Piece Brake Caliper Set TRQ CLA35380 |
| 2015 | Toyota | Tacoma | Toyota Tacoma Base Model V6 4.0L 4 Wheel Drive Front Driver & Passenger Side with Caliper Casting #13WG 2 Piece Brake Caliper Set TRQ CLA35380 |
| 2015 | Toyota | Tacoma | Toyota Tacoma Base Model L4 2.7L 4 Wheel Drive Front Driver & Passenger Side with Caliper Casting #13WG 2 Piece Brake Caliper Set TRQ CLA35380 |
| 2015 | Toyota | Tacoma | Toyota Tacoma Pre Runner V6 4.0L Rear Wheel Drive Front Driver & Passenger Side with Caliper Casting #13WG 2 Piece Brake Caliper Set TRQ CLA35380 |
| 2015 | Toyota | Tacoma | Toyota Tacoma Pre Runner L4 2.7L Rear Wheel Drive Front Driver & Passenger Side with Caliper Casting #13WG 2 Piece Brake Caliper Set TRQ CLA35380 |
| 2015 | Toyota | Tacoma | Toyota Tacoma TRD Pro V6 4.0L 4 Wheel Drive Front Driver & Passenger Side with Caliper Casting #13WG 2 Piece Brake Caliper Set TRQ CLA35380 |
| 2016-2023 | Toyota | Tacoma | Toyota Tacoma Front Driver & Passenger Side with Caliper Casting #13WG 2 Piece Brake Caliper Set TRQ CLA35380 |
| Brand Label | Part Number |
|---|---|
| UCX | 10-C9350 |
| ACDelco | 18FR2139C |
| ACDelco | 18FR2140N |
| UAP | C44246 |
| ACDelco | 18FR2139N |
| UAP | C44245 |
| Centric Parts | 141.44245 |
| BBB Industries | 98-01645R-C |
| UCX | 10-C9351 |
| ACDelco | 18FR2140C |
| Raybestos Brakes | FRC11553 |
| Raybestos Brakes | FRC11554 |
| Centric Parts | 141.44246 |
| BBB Industries | 98-01645L-C |
| Raybestos Brakes | FRC11554N |
| Nugeon | 22-01645R |
| UCX | 14-9351 |
| Nugeon | 22-01645L |
| UCX | 14-9350 |
| Raybestos Brakes | FRC11553N |
| CARDONE Reman | 19-2984 |
| CARDONE Reman | 19-2985 |
| DFC Calipers Outright Program - Archived | 331-76213 |
| DFC Calipers Outright Program - Archived | 331-76212 |
This item may be interchangeable with parts from other brands with the above part numbers. This information is provided only for reference and does not guarantee that the item you are purchasing is identical to parts with part numbers from the brands listed above. To confirm that this item fits your vehicle, use the above "Check Vehicle Fit" option.
Lifetime Warranty
This item is backed by our limited lifetime warranty. In the event that this item should fail due to manufacturing defects during intended use, we will replace the part free of charge. This warranty covers the cost of the part only.
FREE Shipping is standard on orders shipped to the lower 48 States (Contiguous United States). Standard shipping charges apply to Hawaii and Alaska.
Shipping is not available to a P.O. Box, APO/FPO/DPO addresses, US Territories, or Canada for this item.
Expedited is available on checkout to the United States, excluding Alaska, Hawaii.
Final shipping costs are available at checkout.
Created on:
Tools used
Hey friends, it's Len here from 1A Auto. Today we're going to be working on our 2006 Toyota 4Runner and I want to show you how to remove and install a front caliper. As always, if you need these or any other parts, check us out, 1aauto.com. Thanks.
Okay, friends, so it's time to remove our wheel. To do that, you're going to remove all of your lug nuts. You're going to use a 21 millimeter socket. If you're going to be using a ratchet, it might be easier to do this while the wheel is still on the ground so it can't spin while you try to loosen up your lug nuts. I'm using an airgun, so I've got my eye protection, my hand protection. Here we go.
On this one I'm going to leave on a few threads, now I have a spare hand. Try to wiggle this around. A lot of times on Toyotas they don't want to break free right away. It's not really that big of a deal, you could use something as simple as a rubber mallet or if you have a pry bar. Either way, what you want to do is make sure you have a lug nut on, at least a couple of threads, but it's still nice and loose. I come right under here, I'm going to bomp right on the edge of the rim. If you're using a real hammer that's not a rubber mallet, definitely don't hit your rim, you'll mar it up, cause issues. You can try bonking on a tire, you just have to be careful because when you bonk it's going to want to come back.
Rubber mallet right on the rim. There we are, that lug nut did its job, made it so the wheel didn't come falling off and hurt anybody. That's super important. Safety's number one. We take our wheel off and we'll roll it out of the way. Okay, so one of the first things we're going to need to do is grab a little bit of penetrant. This pin right here is going to need to come out to get the pads out. Same thing with this one. All right, so I just like to use a little bit of penetrant spray. Get everything prepared here. I'm going to do my line just like that. And if you were planning on opening up the bleeder screw, which we're not because we were replacing the caliper, of course you would spray that as well at the same time.
I'm going to grab some cutters because that's going to be easiest to grab this with, maybe a nice small flathead screwdriver as well. Try to get out these clips right here and then we're going to push these pins through. So I'll grab a small hammer as well. Once we get those going through, we should be able to continue. Okay, so I've got my pocket screwdriver, just something nice and small. Come like this, see if I can grab onto these. You need to have these, so if you destroy it, you're going to need to get some new ones. More than likely your new caliper will come with some. If it does, generally speaking, it's a nice idea to just keep these if you have a junk drawer or a baggy you can put them in because it's fairly common for them to get lost when you're doing a break job. So who knows? Maybe later on down the line, you're not replacing your calipers, you're just doing breaks, you go to take out the clip, it goes flying into the grass or wherever you're working and you can't find it, you're going to have some extras.
So we've got both those out now. I'm going to take my small hammer and go right on the edge there. Just try to knock this pin through. Same thing up here. Cool. There's one pin. You can see where the hole was that that clip went through. This one has a little clip. We're going to take that off first, I'll show you what it looks like. This right here, what this clip does, and it needs to go in on when we reinstall the new caliper, this just kind of separates the pads so when you release your brake pedal, the fluid can kind of get pushed back into the caliper a little bit and it relieves the pressure from the pads on the rotor. So I like to just go right along here. It's got a little lip and it goes into the hole in the pad. Same thing on the other side.
Awesome. That pin came out nice and easy. I'm going to very slowly just try to push the pad back. That's going to push in these calipers right here, caliper pistons I mean, sorry. Same thing over here. Let's try to get it so it pushes back the pistons just a little bit. Cool. These pads are going to be ready to come out soon. So now what we're going to do, we're going to loosen up the line right here. Before we do that, we want to make sure that no fluid can come out, or at least minimal amount, so I'm going to use these hose pliers right here. When you crimp them down they only go so far, and that's important because you don't really want to put a real pinch on your brake hose, you just want it to be kind of crimped off so it squeezes the hole that the fluid goes through the line and it's going to help prevent fluid from traveling down this way. So we're going to grab our wrench and we're going to try to remove this right here from our caliper.
So I'm just going to continue spraying this a little bit. I'm going to give the line a couple of love taps here, and that's just a hope to try to break the line free from the fitting that's in there.
A lot of times moisture gets in between and it'll make it so the line's stuck in the fitting. And then as you try to loosen the fitting, the line's twisting. As the line twists, it's going to crimp off that hole and you're going to have restricted brake fluid and/or the line will actually break and leak, which both ways would be bad. So I can't really say which way is worse because both ways are bad. At which point if that was the issue and this line either twisted, became bent over or anything like that or even broke, you would just take off this side right here, this side right here completely, get yourself a new piece of line and watch our video on how to make new brake line flares. I like to just go back and forth like this, try to help the penetrant in.
Cool. So before I get this out all the way, I'm going to grab myself something to put on the ground to collect any fluid that may come out because there is of course still fluid here and inside the caliper and it's going to be wanting to make its way out. So I'll grab a little bucket and we can move along.
I forgot to mention that when I'm doing these lines, I like to use a tool that looks like this. I'll just clean it off real quick so it looks a little better for you.
This is called a flare wrench. Okay? As you can tell, it's much better than a regular wrench when it comes to grabbing onto things because you have more areas of a grabbability. If you look at the difference, you can tell that there's a very big difference. If you use something like this on one of these and maybe it's really stuck in there, it'll just kind of slide right off. So get yourself a set of these, we sell them at 1aauto.com. Once you have it loose, you can use whatever you want for a wrench really. Sometimes even the open-face is easier than a flare.
Right up here where this line comes up in through here and into your flex hose, there's a little clip, it looks kind of like this and it just goes like this, right over this. So what we're going to do is we're going to get this clip out of here and that's going to make it so this line can move around. So make sure you get your eye protection on. That's what our clip looks like and that just sits right in the groove of the flex hose right in here. Okay? So that holds the flex hose into this bracket.
Some people would choose to take out this bolt right here and that would be your prerogative, the only problem with removing this bolt is a lot of times they break. Once it breaks, you're going to have to drill it out, re-tap a hole. Some people go the easy way out and they'll use a couple of wire ties. And I guess that would be up to you, it would be your opinion on if you wanted to. I don't consider that to be very secure and if that wire tie was to break and this could just flop around, there's good chances that it could get caught on something. So best results, take this out, it gives you plenty of room. You could do what you need to do.
Now that we have that out of the way, we're going to remove the mounting bolts that hold the caliper onto the knuckle right here and right there, 17 millimeters. You can either use a straight socket with a nice long ratchet, try and get them to break free or just use your airgun. If you don't have an airgun, we sell them 1aauto.com as well. Sometimes you're going to them and they're going to be tight like that. I'm going to start the other one, see if this one will come loose. That happens sometimes, that's okay. I'm going to grab our socket, a nice long ratchet and we'll get it right off there.
So now we're going to use our 17 millimeter socket and a nice long ratchet, get it on here. Get this off of here. I'm just going to continue with this. It's a little quicker. You can continue with the ratchet. One bolt. All right. At this point I'm going to make sure that I'm holding the caliper because this is the last bolt that's holding the caliper onto the vehicle. Grab our caliper, take it off nice and easy, and then of course make sure we get off any extra fluid that might be inside that caliper.
Now that we're at this point, we can take our pads. There's one that looks like it's reusable and you were so inclined you could reuse it. Or now would be a great time to do a front brake job if you got the extra cake. Let's see if I can get this out of here. There's the other pad. Oops. Awesome. So here's our caliper.
Okay, so it's a good idea before you were to take off the caliper and get everything moving around, just take one of your lug nuts, just put it on your rotor all the way down so it's hitting up against the rotor here, and that's just going to prevent the rotor from moving around too much and potentially getting rust in between the rotor and the the wheel bearing that's behind there. All you need is a teeny little flake of rust behind there, it's going to throw your rotor off kilter, you're going to find a break pulsation and possibly even a wheel shake. Put on this lug nut theoretically before you take off the caliper. If you do it now, like what I just did, that's okay too. If you wanted to, you could even take this off completely and then clean up the backside of the rotor and the hub. That would be optimal. We're going to be doing a brake job on this later on in another video. So if you want to see how to do that, check it out.
Okay, so it's time to prep our brand new caliper. To do that, we're going to take out our little clip, set it aside, grab our pin, set it aside. Same thing for the other one, pin, I'm going to put them next to each other so you can see they're the same exact pin. You don't have to worry about mixing them up. The clips, same exact clips. Also, you don't have to worry about mixing them up, keep them together. So now you need to think about where the pads are going to be touching on your caliper, any contact point between your pad and your caliper needs to have a light amount of lubrication. So when we removed our pads, we remembered that they were hitting up against the caliper pistons of course, because that's the part that squeezes the pad against the rotor. And then also when the pads were inside here, they were hitting up against this and down there. Same over here and here. And then of course the upper portion of the caliper in the same areas.
I'm just going to use a little bit of caliper grease. You can use whatever you want. I would definitely use something that's heat resistant because brakes get hot. And if you use something as basic as like Vaseline or something like that because maybe you don't have caliper grease, that'll just liquefy and it could cause breaking issues if it liquefies and gets in between the friction surfaces of the pad and the rotor. I'm just going to go along the pistons just like this. Looks pretty good. You don't need very much, it's not about putting puddles of goo on here or anything. Of course the more grease you have on the more dust and gunk accumulation you might have. And that's why we only put it on the contact points. You don't need to put it anywhere else because it's just going to make it so dirt sticks. So we've got that side done, I'm just going to turn it over, right along here and here. We've done the pistons. Yeah, pistons are all good. This caliper is prepped and ready to be installed.
All right, so we brought our caliper over to the truck. We're going to get ready to start mounting this in. It's important to make sure that you can spin your fitting. Okay? You can do it just by hand. If you can't, just hit it with a little bit more penetrant and spin it with your wrench a few times until it's nice and loose. That's going to be important because at this point we're going to have to bring the caliper up and we're not going to start in any of the mounting bolts yet. We're just going to have it so it can move around. You still got the line loose up at the top there at the strut or knuckle I guess. Sorry. I'm starting in the fitting here and make sure that I have a whole bunch of good threads. You don't want just one little thread and then that's it.
This is in there pretty good at this point I'm going to leave it loose and now I'm just going to bring it down. I'm going to line up my mounting bolts, the hole's there so I can grab the bolts. If you want to use a little bit of thread locker, it's your prerogative. You do you, boo boo. I'm just going to put this in here. Get it started. Do the same thing to the top one. Awesome. So now we're just going to tighten these up. We'll torque them down to manufacturer specifications and then we'll continue on to putting on all the rest of the stuff.
All right, so let's bottom these out real quick. I'm just going to get them so just barely touching, not putting the hammer down or anything. Now we're going to use our 17 millimeter socket with our torque wrench. We're going to torque these to 91 foot pounds. All right, let's just double check them. Tight? Tight. Those are definitely tight. Let's move along.
Okay, friends, it's time to tighten up our line. We're going to use our flare wrench. All right, that felt like it bottomed out, I'm going to give it a teeny bit more and then that's it. Give it a wiggle. That feels good. We're going to make sure that we recheck this. Once we're done the brake job, we'll pump up the brakes and make sure no fluid's coming out of there. If it is, we'll just try tightening it up a little bit more. If it still does, there must be something wrong with the line, in which case we'd replace it.
Let's continue on. We're going to do this clip up here. Just take your brake hose. I like to squeeze the line like this cause it helps pull it through. Now I'm going to take my little clip. I've got the lip right here on my thumb. I'm just going to slide it through just like this. Okay? I'm going to grab my hammer. Just give it a couple of loving bonks. There we are. That's clipped in as far as it'll go. I'm going to take this off of here. Awesome. Let's move ahead to installing our pads.
Okay, friends, so now it's time to install our pads. Here's our original pads, right? Yeah, they still have plenty of meat on them. That'll probably last you, I don't know, it depends on how you drive, but it could last you another year. But you have your breaks apart, now would be the time if you wanted to do your breaks, that would be the difference between a new pad and an old. So you can notice the difference in the thickness of the pads just by where this pad comes up to you and where that one does. This one's already more than half worn, I would say that it's a decent time to replace them. If you're not and you just wanted to install your old pads because they're still reusable, we're going to do that and this is just a video for instruction purposes only.
So we've got our pads, whether they're old or new. If they were a new, of course, I'm sure you would have a brand new rotor on here as well. I probably don't need to tell you that, but if you're replacing pads, you replaced the rotors at the same time. We've got our old pads, I'm just going to slide them in so the holes are all lined up. I'm going to take my brand new pins. These are going to go from the front, straight through all four holes and then through like that. The same thing for this one. Oops. We've got one more thing, our spring. So when you look at this, you're going to see that there's a little ear that comes up along this edge right here. Same on this one, and you get these little prongs right here. Those are going to be very important because you're going to put your pin through this slot right here. Okay? I'm going to put this just like this. So it's holding up against the pad on both sides. I'm going to go through just like this.
Now you're going to take your clip and you're going to put this little pin through the ear in the pad. Same thing for this one, just pull it through, put it on there. Awesome. I like to just go like this a little bit. If you notice that this is coming down and it's hitting up against, maybe you have some rust flakes on your rotor, you don't want this hitting. So what I like to do is once this is all clipped in, just give it a little tug. Just kind of help it along. You don't want it to come straight up like this or anything, that's going to cause another issue, but as long as it's kind of up like this and it's not hitting up against the rotor, you're doing all right. This is going to do its job. So when I squeeze, you step on the brake, you let go of the brake, squeeze, let go. That's what this clip is for. Let's put on our little safety clips there. There's one. It's going to go through the hole in the pin just like that.
Just make sure it's sitting in the groove. If it isn't, just pull it straight up and then try again. Same thing for the other one. These are very important. If you don't put these in, maybe you lost it and you're like, "Whatever, no big deal." Driving down the road this would be bad if this was missing. That's no good. All right? You need to have the safety clip there. If you lost it for some reason, you're just going to have to go out and purchase yourself one. We'll put those in, or I guess you could actually just use the old ones from the old calipers if you still have those.
So that's in, these pins can move around like they're supposed to. Right? But those pins are keeping them in. This looks great. At this point, we're going to take off this boot again, assuming it's on there, you're going to open up your bleeder screw. I'm going to grab a eight millimeter wrench, I'll open that up and we're going to wait for a trickle of brake fluid to come down through.
So I have my eight millimeter box wrench here, it's just the other end of this side. Put it up on there, give that a bonk, break it free. Now we're just going to wait for fluid to make its way down through here because of gravity. Fill up the caliper and that's going to come make its way up in here and it's going to force air and then fluid and it's going to come trickling down into our collection receptacle. This could take a few minutes. If you have a vacuum bleeder, you could put it on here, apply a little bit of suction and that'll help it along and as well. So we'll just leave this for now until it's ready to start coming out.
Okay, we've got a good gravity bleed going on. The fluid made its way all the way down this hose into the caliper, filled up all these areas and is now pushed all the air out, or the majority of the air, and we have a steady trickle of fluid. I have a gloved finger so I can touch this brake fluid, if you're not wearing gloves, do not touch the brake fluid. Let's see if I can get this thing so it's snug back up. Perfect. Okay. Just wipe it down real quick.
At this point you would go over the other side of the vehicle and you would finish up your service if you're replacing the caliper on the other side as well, at which point once you've done both sides, you can get up inside the vehicle and you're going to do a manual bleed at this time. If you don't know how to do a manual brake bleed, go ahead and check out our video on YouTube.
Now we're going to grab our wheel. These wheels can be heavy and I don't want you to hurt yourself, so instead of grabbing your wheel like this and trying to lift with your back and potentially hurting yourself, I'll show you a little secret. You take your leg, I'm assuming you're not worried about your pants getting a little dirty, I'm just going to grab it like this, roll it right up your leg, and now you can use your leg/ab muscles to lift it right up, and use your leg to hold it, balance it. See? That works pretty good.
I'm going to take my lug nut, my socket, put it right on here. Now that we know we've got one locked in, we can release it. Grab the rest of our lug nuts. We're going to start all these on. We'll bottom them out and then we'll torque them down. All right, so let's bottom out these lug nuts. Perfect. We'll get this down on the ground and we'll torque them down to manufacturer's specifications. Okay, friends, let's get our torque down. We've got our 21 millimeter socket. We've got our torque wrench set to 83 foot pounds. We're going to go in a crisscross manner. Okay, I'm just going to go around one more time. It's a small price to pay for safety. Awesome.
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Tools used
Hey, friends. It's Len here at 1A Auto. Today, I'm working on a 2007 Toyota FJ Cruiser, and I want to show you how to replace the front calipers. It's going to be a very easy job. If you need any parts, you can always check us out at 1AAuto.com. Thanks.
Okay, so what we're going to do first is we're going to take off these six lug nuts, 21 millimeter. You can use a ratchet and a socket if you want, or your air gun. There we are. Got the wheel broken free. Drop this down. Wheel out of the way. Okay, so now we're just going to try to push back the caliper a little bit. I'm just going to go like this. Just try to push back these pistons, best I can. This is just to release the pads from the rotor. Cool. Okay. The rotor can move around freely. If we need to, we can push them back a little further in a minute.
Now, we're going to remove the caliper. One of the first things we need to do is take off this clip right here. Generally, cutters have worked pretty good for this to grab onto it. I'm going to grab some in a second here. There we are. Now this line can move around. It's very important, so when you take your caliper off, it can move around a little bit. I'm going to use a 12 millimeter up here on this bolt. That's going to remove this bracket so it can move around. Get the socket off of there. There we are. Okay. The bracket can move around freely. I'm going to take these off right here. If it's easier and you wanted to, you could take off the outer tie rod end. I'm probably going to do that, that way I can turn this, and I can get to those bolts easier.
Just grab some cutters. There we are. Just wiggle this around. If you have a new cotter pin, you don't have to worry about saving this one, but if you don't, you're going to have to try to save it. We do have new ones, so I'm not super worried about it. This one doesn't look like it's coming out, so I'm just going to cut that off of there. Tie rod and nut is a 19 millimeter. There we are. Took that off of there, 19 millimeter. Just going to give the knuckle a couple of bonks. I want to be careful not to damage the threads on the tie rod or hit the boot. Super important, you don't break your boot open. If you do, you'll have to replace the outer tie rod end. All right. Come around this way. There we are.
Now when we go to install this, we're going to have to make sure that we get that cotter pin out of there. Okay. Because we want to put a new one in there. We'll set this aside. Now we can pivot this, and we can do what we need to do. We're going to use a 17 millimeter to remove the two bolts for the caliper to the knuckle. Same thing to the other one. At this point, the caliper may come down. You want to make sure you hold onto it so it doesn't fall down and hang too far. Bolt number two is the same as the first. Set it aside with the other one.
Now, I want to hang the caliper, not by its flex hose, obviously, so just grab whenever you've got, a coat hanger or something that everybody would have. There we are. We can remove our front rotor. Okay, so now on the brakes, you've got these little clips right here, you can just use a pocket screwdriver, try to pull it right out of there. The way that this one situated straight up against the bolt here, so that's pretty much what your clips going to look like. I'm just going to squeeze this back in. When it's time to re-install it, I'll show you at that point. We'll get the other one out, right along the backside here. There we are. Clip number two, same as the first. Set it aside. With a small hammer, give these pins a couple bonks. Try to drive them out. That's going to release the pads, so the pads may come falling out. So make sure you don't have your face under there or anything like that. Obviously, a little bit of penetrant goes a long way with these. Now I'm just going to use a small punch and I'm going to drive these right out. Okay. Do the other one here. Can we grab our clip and my pocket screwdriver, it's going to go right along this ear right here. Pull it up. This one, same thing.
Might need a stronger screwdriver than this one to get the pads out. They like to stick in there. Okay. It's definitely in there pretty good. Just drive these pins the rest of the way out here. That's what your pin looks like. There's two of them there. They're the exact same. That hole's where the clip went through. I'm just going to use my small hammer, try to give this a couple loving bonks, see if it will come off, a little bit of penetrant. Why not? Okay. Get this out of here. That's what your brake pad looks like. We'll set this aside. Do the same to the other one. Brake pad number two. Let me get this off of here. Put that bracket aside. Just get our caliber. I'm going to bring it back over to where I got it from, right over here.
What I'm going to do now is I'm just going to start in these bolts. Now, I'm going to try to loosen up this line. It's a good idea to spray it down with some penetrant. Okay. If you have penetrant spray, spray it in there. That's a 10 millimeter. Safety glasses, of course. Sometimes the line might want to spin with it, you just got to try to take your time and try to break it free, okay? You don't want your line twisting. You can twist the line and you'll break it or crimp it. Both of those would be very bad. Now that we have the line nice and loose, I'm just going to bring it back to the snugged point where it's not leaking out. We're going to take off these, we'll hang this again. We're going to grab our new caliper and new pads, put them on here, and then we'll put the line in.
So we're going to pinch off our flex hose. Let's use some hose clamp pliers. These are gentle on the flex hose, but they'll stop the fluid from running out. Now that we have that on there, we're going to re-loosen this. There will be some fluid that comes out, so make sure you're wearing eye protection, hand protection, and, of course, have a collection bucket of some sort to collect your fluid. I'm just using a 10 millimeter still. Get this line off of here. There we are. Set our line aside. Okay. We're going to remove our bolts again. There's our left front caliper.
Okay, so what I like to do is I like to put one bolt in, just a little bit here. That just holds the caliper from falling down. I'm going to take my brake line, and line it up so that the threads are getting ready to go in. I like to wobble it around as I go here, just to see if it's actually threading, or if it's just sliding, or skipping a little bit. Okay. Put a little light on the situation up here, and now we've got it started in. I'm going to grab my flare wrench here and caliper down. That's nice and tight.
Now, it's always a good idea to use a little bit of caliper grease on your caliper. I like to go right along the edge right here. That's where the edges of your pads are going to ride, so you want to make sure that you don't get a lot of moisture accumulation there, right up along here. You've got the holes where your caliper slider pins go through, that's where your pad slide. Do the same up on top here. There we are. Just get up on those holes. Let's grab a little bit more. Okay. Now, we're just going to do along the pistons. This is going to help with vibration, dampening, noise reduction. There we are. Cool.
Carefully put it back over. Grab your mounting bolts. If you want to use a little thread locker on these, you can. It's your prerogative. For the purpose of this video, I'm not going to worry about it. We're just going to turn these all the way in, and then we'll torque them down. Now, we're going to torque down these two bolts to 91 foot pounds using a 17 millimeter. I'm just going to turn that. Okay, I'm going to check them again real quick. Okay. Torque, torqued, tight. We can move along.
We've got our pads, our little wear indicator. The wear indicator goes on the inside. I'm just going to slide this right in here, just like that. Do the outer pad, no wear indicator. We've got our two pins, we've got a clip that goes across, and we've got the two clips that hold the pins in at the end. So what we're going to do here, we're going to take our first pin, start bringing it through. Go like that. Put it through the clip again, through the pad, and then through the caliper, just like that. We've got it sticking out right there.
Just going to use our little clip. This will slide through, and make sure it's clipped in so it can't fall out. Okay. Now you just take these little ears and you put them into the slots in the pads, slots in the pads. Okay. These little ears right here, go over the top, and then you have the little prongs, those go into the holes in the pads right there. Take our second one and do the same thing. This one's a little easier because we don't have a clip. Put that in there. There we are. Cool beans. It looks pretty good. If you wanted it to, you can add a little bit more lube to go in between where the pins go into the calipers. You really don't need very much, but it'll help keep them moving if they need to move. So there's that.
We'll get this out of here. We can set our bracket back up, got the hole for the bolt, and then the hole for the ear on the bracket, just going to go like this. I'm going to turn it, so there's less pressure. I'm just going to come up here. A bolt like this, you definitely don't need to use thread locker on it. It might actually be better to use a little bit of Never Seize, if you have access to some, but I'm not going to worry about it for the purpose of this video. I'm going to use my 12 millimeter, tighten this up. Okay.
Take our line, try to bring it down so we can see the groove. We're going to use this clip. This is going to go through with the little flippy ear facing our thumb. We'll just try to bring it in. Sometimes getting these in is pretty difficult. I'm just going to loosen this up again real quick, a little bit. Maybe that will let us get some more movement out of this. Let's set it up where we need it. As soon as I let go, it goes back. Okay. Now, I'm just going to bonk that in with what I have in my hand. A small hammer would work for this. Okay. Just mount this back up. Tight. Okay, tight, tight, all that's tight. Okay.
We've got this right here. When we took it apart we had to break the cotter pin, so I'm just going to need to drill that out real quick, so I'll do that. Okay. So, we get the hole through that, easy-peasy. Now, we'll just clean it off, and we can tighten it down, and put a brand new cotter pin in there. Now we're just going to take the tie rod nut, we're going to bottom it out, and then we'll go ahead and torque it down using my 19 millimeter. We'll go with the assumption that it doesn't want to tightened down, it's just spinning inside the knuckle there. Something you can do if you have access to a long pry bar, just apply upward pressure. Be careful, of course, for your axle, wherever you need to go that you're not pressing on your axle. I'm just going to keep moving around until I find a nice safe spot. That'll be all right, I guess. I'm just going to apply upward pressure. There we are.
Now we're going to go ahead and torque this down, and then we're going to have to bring it continually clockwise until we get to the closest slot that lines us up with our locking point. Okay. We're going to torque this down to 67 foot pounds. Okay, that's torqued. Now it's important to pay attention to, like I said before, where the holes are, there's a hole right here, but it kind of lines up with the castle on that, the castle part of the castle nut, so we need to bring it a little further until it lines up. I'm just going to use my ratchet. I'm just going to go as far as I feel like I need to here, a little bit more. There we are. Slide that right through. It's your prerogative how you want to set this. Some people go side to side, one ear to the other side. Some people go over the top. As long as it's bent and it can't come out on its own, you're doing all right. So you do you, Booboo. Get that on there. That cotter pin can go nowhere. There's no way that this nut's going to be able to loosen up on its own, and the tire rod won't be able to come off causing the wheel to go out of control. So, we're tight, tight, everything's tight coming around here. Perfect. Clear to move onto the next step.
Okay. Now that we've got our caliper on there, what you would want to do next is you want to make sure that your brake fluid's topped off. Okay. It's pretty much close to the maximum line in the master cylinder. Then, you're going to get inside your vehicle, you're going to pump up the break a few times, nice and slow, okay? Til you start to feel something of a pedal. Once you start feeling something of a pedal, you would want to come back underneath, and you're going to gravity bleed your system, so you just take your eight millimeter wrench, open up this bleeder screw, wait til you see fluid coming out. This is called gravity bleeding because it's just using gravity to draw fluid out. Once you've got a pretty good trickle of fluid, you would just take your eight millimeter, snug it up, and then you would want to continue with a manual bleed of your system.
We have videos on that. We also offer a self-bleeding kit that you can get at 1AAuto.com. So, assuming that you get it all done, you got it all bled out, it's nice and good. Make sure that your fluids topped off. Then, take it for a road test. Easy-peasy, nice and easy. Let's get that on there. There we are. We got a few good threads, we can let go, and grab the other five lug nuts. We'll bottom them out, and then we'll bring it down, torque it up. We're going to take our 21 millimeter socket, we're going to torque down our six lug nuts. Okay. You're going to try to make like a star or snowflake pattern, basically crisscross. Okay. You don't want to go around in a circle. All right. If you want to go around again, go around again, 85 foot pounds.
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CLA35380
Perfect fit and function.They have been on my 4runner for at least 2 years now.
Excellent quality, finish, and function. They feel solid as can be and some respects I'd even say they constitute as an upgrade. The finish and rubber seals around the pistons still look like new a year later and I've had no problems out of them. Absolutely worth the money.
Perfect fit ??????????????
Hola buen producto 100% garantizado
Great customer service with another purchase. Products fit great and work even better . I will be ordering all my tacoma parts through them .
Very satisfied with the quality, fit and performance of these calipers.
Perfect
I'm giving this 5 stars based on the combination of appearance of quality, price and ease of install - the videos are excellent. Long term usage is obviously going to tell the true tale but, so far, so good.
Exact fit, easy to install
I would recommend these to a friend and use TRQ again! These calipers have an amazing build quality. Had no problems with instillation, they went into place so easily and came with all hardware. The instillation video was great! These TRQ calipers were way less expensive than ones at the parts store! Even after perks!!! Also I really love how nicely they were packaged.
This caliper set is specific to 2003-2009 Toyota 4Runner models with Caliper Casting #13WG.
Mine were , but that doesnt mean all are
Yes, this part will fit your vehicle.
