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About TRQ:
TRQ is a trusted brand dedicated to making every repair a success story by combining premium parts with easy installation. Each TRQ part is engineered by a team of automotive experts to meet or exceed OEM standards, delivering enhanced performance and maximum longevity. With rigorous in-house testing, the brand ensures superior fit and function across every product line. TRQ also provides customers with best-in-class, step-by-step installation videos—so you can complete repairs with confidence, whether you're a first-time DIYer or an industry professional.
Product Features
TRQ brake kits are designed to restore your brake system to like-new performance. TRQ brake pads are positive molded, thermal scorched, chamfered, and utilize a multi-layer shim for enhanced performance and service life. TRQ rotors have a non-directional finish that reduces the break-in period for new rotors as well as reducing vibrations throughout the rotor’s lifecycle. All products are fit and road-tested in our Massachusetts R&D facility to ensure we deliver on our promise of Trusted Reliable Quality.
Attention California Customers:
WARNING: This product can expose you to chemicals including Lead and Lead Compounds, which are known to the State of California to cause cancer, and birth defects or other reproductive harm. For more information, go to www.P65Warnings.ca.gov.
Lifetime Warranty
This item is backed by our limited lifetime warranty. In the event that this item should fail due to manufacturing defects during intended use, we will replace the part free of charge. This warranty covers the cost of the part only.
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Tools used
Hey friends, it's Len here at 1A Auto. Today I'm working on a 2007 Toyota FJ Cruiser. I'm going to be doing a front brake job. It's going to be very easy, and I want to show you how to do it. If you need these or any other parts, you can always check us out at 1aauto.com.
Okay, so what we're going to do first is we're going to take off these six lug nuts, 21 millimeter. You can use a ratchet and a socket if you want, or your air gun. There we are. Get the wheel broken free, drop this down, wheel it out of the way. Okay, so now we're just going to try to push back the caliper a little bit. I'm just going to go like this. Just try to push back these pistons best I can. This is just to release the pads from the rotor. Cool, okay. Rotor can move around freely. If we need to, we can push them back a little further in a minute.
Now we're going to remove the caliper. One of the first things we need to do is take off this clip right here. Generally cutters work pretty good for this to grab onto it. Grab some in a second here. Here we are. Now this line can move around. It's very important, so when you take your caliper off, it can move around a little bit. I'm going to use a 12 millimeter up here on this bolt, that's going to remove this bracket so it can move around. Get the socket off of there. There we are. Okay. The bracket can move around freely.
I'm going to take these off right here. If it's easier and you wanted to, you could take off the outer tie rod end. I'm probably going to do that. That way there I can turn this and I can get to those bolts easier. Just grab some cutters. There we are. Just wiggle this around. If you have a new a cotter pin, you don't have to worry about saving this one, but if you don't, you're going to have to try to save it. We do have new ones, so I'm not super worried about it. This one doesn't look like it's coming out, so I'm just going to cut that off of there. Tie rod end nut is a 19 millimeter. There we are, took that off of there. 19 millimeter. I'm just going to give the knuckle a couple of bonks. I want to be careful not to damage the threads on the tire rod or hit the boot. Super important you don't break your boot open. If you do, you'll have to replace the outer tire rod end. All right, round this way. There we are.
Now when we go to install this, we're going to have to make sure that we get that cotter pin out of there. Okay. So we want to put a new one in there. We'll set this aside. Now we can pivot this and we can do what we need to do. We're going to use a 17 millimeter to remove the two bolts for the caliper to the knuckle. Same thing to the other one. At this point, the caliper may come down. You want to make sure you hold onto it so it doesn't fall down and hang too far. Bolt number two. It's the same as the first. Set it aside with the other one. Now I want to hang the caliper. Not by its flex hose obviously. So just grab whenever you've got, coat hanger or something that everybody would have. There you are. We can remove our front rotor. Okay, so now on the brakes, you've got these little clips right here. Just use a pocket screwdriver, try to pull it right out of there.
The way that this one's situated straight up against the bolt here. So that's pretty much what your clip's going to look like. I'm just going to squeeze this back in when it's time to re-install it. I'll show you at that point. Get the other one out right along the backside here. There we are. Clip number two, same as the first. Set it aside. Small hammer. Give these pins a couple of bonks, try to drive them out. That's going to release the pads so the pads may come falling out. So make sure you don't have your face under there or anything like that. Obviously a little bit of penetrant goes a long way with these. Now I'm just going to use a small punch. I'm going to drive these right out. Okay? Do the other one here.
Can grab our clip. My pocket screwdriver. I'm just going to go right along this ear right here. Pull it up. This one, same thing. Might need a small stronger screwdriver than this one to get the pads out. They like to stick in there. Okay. It's definitely in there pretty good. Just drive these pins the rest of the way out here. That's what your pin looks like. There's two of them. They're the exact same. That hole's where the clip went through. I'm just going to use my small hammer. Try to give this a couple of loving bonks. See if it'll come off. A little bit of penetrant. Why not? Okay. Get this out of here. That's what your brake pad looks like. We'll set this aside, do the same to the other one. Brake pad number two.
So now it's time to clean up the hub. This area right here where your rotor goes onto, it's called the hub. You can clean that up with a couple of basic tools. You can either use this, it's available at 1aauto.com. It's great, you get a little sanding desk for it. Clean this up nice. Or you can use something as simple as a wire brush and spend all day cleaning it if you want. There we are. That looks pretty good. Now we'll put on a little bit of copper Never-Seez. Perfect. Grab our rotor and we can move along.
Okay, friends, a quick product comparison for you. Over here we have our front brakes from our 2007 Toyota FJ Cruiser. Just removed them. It was very easy. Over here we have our brand new quality 1A Auto parts. These rotors are cross cut so you can see the etchings. They go in one direction and they also go in the other direction. That's very important for friction. You want to make sure that any rotor that you get is going to be cross cut. Super important. You'll notice along here you have cooling fins right here it looks like it's kind of notched out. The reason for that is because this is called mill balanced. This rotor's already been balanced so you don't have to worry about it being out of balance and causing a brake pulsation driving down the road. We've got our brand new brake pads. They come with our wear indicator. Okay. Same as the old one. Got our wear indicator on there. We'll set these aside.
The rotor hats and everything sit the same height. If we had this turned over, the front side. Right along here is considered the hat. Okay, so essentially by having it this way, you can feel if it's the same. If you're new rotor's up like this or your old rotor's vice versa, you've got an issue, you're going to have an offset in your wheel alignment and everything and there's going to be an issue. You can hold it up like this. We've got six lug holes. That's how many we had removing it. Okay, super important. Lastly, just want to make sure that you have the same rotor diameter along this way. Okay. Same circle. It's the same size and it is. Set this aside. With all that said, I don't see any reason why these wouldn't be quality parts to install into the vehicle, so I'm going to go ahead and do it. If you need these or any other parts, you can always check us out at 1aauto.com thanks
All right, we've got our rotor, put it right on here. Just going to grab a lug nut and try to put this on as far as I can. I want this to make sure, or this is going to help me make sure that the rotor can't move around on the hub. The more it moves around, the more chances you have of a rust flakes falling in between the rotor and the hub, which will cause a brake pulsation down the line. We'll just kind of give it a little spin like this. I don't hear any brake grinding. The backing plate isn't hitting up against there. It's very common for it to happen. Maybe you were moving something around. You tweaked the backing plate a little bit. This one sounds good.
So now it's always a good idea to use a little bit of caliper grease on your caliper. I like to go right along the edge right here. That's where the edges of your pads are going to ride. So you want to make sure that you don't get a lot of moisture accumulation there. Right up along here, you've got the holes where your caliper slider pins go through. That's where your pad slide. Do the same up on top here. There we are. Just get up on those holes, just grab a little bit more. Okay, now we're just going to do along the pistons. That's going to help with vibration dampening, noise reduction. Here we are. Cool. Carefully put it back over, grab your mounting bolts. If you want to use a little thread locker on these, you can, to your prerogative. For the purpose of this video, I'm not going to worry about it. We're just going to turn these all the way in and then we'll torque them down.
So now we're going to torque down these two bolts to 91 foot-pounds using a 17 millimeter. Just going to turn that. Check them again real quick. Okay. Torqued, torqued tight. We can move along. We've got our pads. Got our little wear indicator. Wear indicator goes on the inside. I'm just going to slide this right in here. Just like that. Do the outer pad, no wear indicator. We've got our two pins, got a clip that goes across and we've got the two clips that hold the pins in at the end. So what we're going to do here, we're going to take our first pin, start bringing it through. Go like that. Put it through the clip again, through the pad and then through the caliper. Just like that. We've got it sticking out right there. Just going to use our little clip. This'll slide through. Make sure it's clipped in so it can't fall out. Okay.
Now you just take these little ears and you put them into the slots in the shoes or pads, slots in the pads. Okay. These little ears right here go over the top and then you have the little prongs, those go into the holes and the pads right there. Take our second one. Do the same thing. This one's a little easier because we don't have a clip. That in there. There we are, cool beans. It looks pretty good. If you wanted to, you can add a little bit more lube to go in between where the pins go into the calipers. You really don't need very much, but it'll help keep them moving if they need to move. So there's that. Get this out of here. Can set our bracket back up with the hole for the bolt and then the hole for the ear on the bracket. I'm just going to go like this, turn it so there's less pressure. That's going to come up here.
A bolt like this, you definitely don't need to use thread locker on. It might actually be better to use a little bit of a, Never-Seez if you have access to some, but I'm not going to worry about it for the purpose of this video. I'm going to use my 12 millimeter, tighten this up. Okay. There's that. Take our line. Try to bring it down so we can see the groove. We're going to use this clip. This is going to go through with the little flippy ear facing our thumb. Just try to bring it in. Sometimes getting these in, it's pretty difficult. I'm just going to loosen this up again real quick, a little bit. Maybe that'll let us get some more movement out of this. Just set up where we need it. As soon as I let go, it goes back. Okay, now I'm just going to bonk that in. Just what I had in my hand. So small hammer would work for this. Okay. Just snug this back up tight. Okay. Tight, tight. All that's tight.
We're going to go ahead and put it on this bleeder screw cover. Easy peasy. I've got this right here. When we took it apart, we had to break the cotter pin, so I'm just going to need to drill that out real quick. Okay, so we got the whole through that. Easy peasy. Now we just clean it off and we can tighten it down and put a brand new cotter pin in there. So now we're just going to take the tie rod end out. We're going to bottom it out and then we'll go ahead and torque it down. Using my 19 millimeter. We'll go with the assumption that it doesn't want to tight down, tighten down. It's just spinning inside the knuckle there. Something you can do if you have access to a long pry bar, just apply upward pressure. Careful of course for your axle, wherever you need to go that you're not pressing on your axle. Just going to keep moving around until I find a nice safe spot. That'll be all right I guess. I'm just going to apply upward pressure. There we are.
Now we're going to go ahead and torque this down and then we're going to have to bring it continually clockwise until we get to the closest slot that lines up with our locking point. Okay. We're going to torque this down to 67 foot-pounds. Okay. That's torqued. Now it's important to pay attention to, like I said before, where the holes are. There's a hole right here, but it kind of lines up with the castle nut. The castle part of the castle nut, so we need to bring it a little further until it lines up. So I'm going to use my ratchet. Just going to go as far as I feel like I need to here. A little bit more. There we are.
Slide that right through. It's your prerogative how you want to set this. Some people go side to side, one ear to one side, one ear to the other side. Some people go over the top. As long as it's bent and it can't come out on its own, you're doing all right. So you do you booboo. Get that on there, that cotter pin can go nowhere. There is no way that this nut's going to be able to loosen up on its own and the tire rod won't be able to come off causing the the wheel to go out of control. So we're tight, tight, everything's tight coming around here. Perfect, clear to move on to the next step.
Okay, so we've got our caliper on there. Now all you're going to do is you're going to get up inside the vehicle. Well actually want to make sure that your brake fluid is topped off. Of course that's, I mean that's just generally speaking. And then get inside the vehicle and then just pump up the brake until the brake pedal is nice and firm and then you should be clear to go for a road test.
Okay, so now we're going to get the wheel up on here. I've got a couple of lug nuts in my hand. I'm going to take the wheel, put it up against my leg and I'm going to lift with my leg/ab muscles just like that. I'm going to try not to use my back. I don't want to hurt my back. Go like this, lift this up, there we are. I'm holding the wheel. Get one lug nut started on there. Number two started on there. Now I can release the wheel and I can grab the rest of my lug nuts. We have all of our lug nuts on right. We still have to snug them up. To snug them up what we want to do is go in a snowflake pattern on this. Generally speaking, you go crisscross, but this is more like snowflake, so you'd go boom, boom, boom, boom, boom, boom. Okay. Never go around in a circle.
You go ahead and go around in a circle, you tighten it up along this way, pulls it in, right. You get over to this side, you think you have a tight, you might even torque it down and it's still cocked off to the side a little bit. You go ahead and hit a bump. Boom. Next thing you know your wheel's ready to fall off. Okay, so just go ahead, go crisscross, star pattern, whatever you want to call it. I'm just going to bottom it out and then we're going to torque them down after. We're going to go ahead and torque down the wheel now to 85 foot-pounds with our 21 millimeter socket. We're going to continue in our snowflake pattern or crisscross, whatever you want to call it. Start here. Go to the opposite side of the wheel. There we are. We know they're all torqued. If you want to hit them again, hit them again. Small price to pay for a little bit of safety. There we are. Easy peasy.
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Tools used
Hey, friends. It's Len here from 1A Auto. Today we're going to be working on our 2006 Toyota 4Runner and I want to show you how to remove and install front brake rotors and pads. As always, if you need these parts or any other, check us out, 1AAuto.com. Thanks.
Okay, friends. So it's time to remove our wheel. To do that, you're going to remove all of your lug nuts. Going to use a 21 millimeter socket. If you're going to be using a ratchet, it might be easier to do this while the wheel's still on the ground so it can't spin while you try to loosen up your lug nuts. I'm using an air gun, so I've got my eye protection, my hand protection. Here we go. This one I'm going to leave on a few threads. Put my lug nuts there. Now I have a spare hand. We'll try to wiggle this around. A lot of times on Toyotas, they don't want to break free right away. That's not really that big of a deal. You could use something as simple as a rubber mallet or if you have a pry bar. Either way, what you want to do is make sure you have a lug nut on at least a couple of threads, but it's still nice and loose.
Come right under here, I'm going to bonk right on the edge of the rim. If you're using a real hammer that's not a rubber mallet, definitely don't hit your rim. You'll mar it up, cause issues. You can try bonking on the tire. You just have to be careful because when you bonk, it's going to want to come back. Rubber mallet, right on the rim. There we are. That lug nut did its job, made it so the wheel didn't come falling off and hurt anybody. Super important, safety's number one. Take our wheel off and we'll roll it out of the way.
ll right, so we're going to take out this clip right here. Just a little forky looking clip does this and it goes right over the line. I'm going to use a screwdriver, small pry bar, some cutters if that's easier for you to grab with or even pliers. Once you get it so it wants to break free, should be able to wiggle it right out of there. And that's what it looks like. It's got a little ear here, and that ear faces towards you or away from the vehicle. Set this aside.
Okay, so now it's time to take out these caliper slider pins here. Sometimes they'll be frozen in there if your caliper's old, and that's pretty common. But basically what you need to do is grab like this, your small pocket screwdriver, you're going to take off this clip right here. And do the same thing to the other one. Pull off that clip. It's the same as the first. You don't have to worry about mixing them up. Awesome. Now what you would need to do, just take your small hammer, give these a couple bonks. These ones come out nice and easy because it's a brand new caliper.
But if it wasn't and they didn't come out easy, you just use your hammer, bonk, bonk, bonk until it's level. Take your punch, drive these all the way through as far as you can, and then come from this side and pull your pin all the way out. You'd want to inspect your pins and make sure that they're not rotted or rusted or anything like that. If they are, you'd want to replace them so they look something like this, nice and smooth because your pad needs to be able to slide around on them nice and easily. We'll set those aside.
We've got a little clip up here. This comes out very easily. Just got a little ear right there and it slides into the hole on the pad. And then same thing over here. At this point, if this wasn't a brand new caliper, your pistons are going to be holding your pads probably up against your rotor. We'll go with the assumption that they are, you would take your small pry bar, just come right between the rotor and the pad and just try to push like this. And that's going to slowly push in this piston. Same right here, over here and over there. Once you have it so your pistons are pushed back and your pads are plenty distance away from your rotor, you can grab your pad, slide it right out of there. We'll set that aside for recycling. This one. Awesome.
Now you're going to want to make sure you have maybe something like this or even a small bungee cord, whatever you need, because we're going to be taking out the two mounting bolts that hold this caliper to the knuckle and we're going to have to hang this somewhere, so just get it ready. Wherever you think you can probably put it. We're going to take out those two bolts and we can continue. Now I'm going to use a 17 millimeter socket. This one's just a swivel and it's on my impact wrench and that's just so when I come in I can get the right angle. You can use a 17 millimeter socket and a long ratchet if that's easier for you. Of course, if you're using your air gun, you want to make sure you're wearing safety glasses at all times.
Got both of our bolts and set these aside. Just grab this, bring it down here. Should be able to move around fairly decently. I'm just going to put that there. There's no pressure on this flex hose. You definitely don't want to put a tug on your flex hose.
When you're trying to take the rotor off. You'd want to have a lug nut on there, at least a few good threads, and then when you're taking your hammer and you're going bonk, bonk, bonk to try to get this to break free, if the rotor did decide to pop off, and it can't come down and potentially hurt you anywhere. This rotor's already broken free. Here's our rotor.
Okay, friends, so it's time to clean up our wheel bearing hub here, and this is the surface that our rotor's going to be resting against. You can go on 1AAuto.com and get yourself one of these tools, which is a wonderful tool. It has a little sanding disc on here, and of course you would wear safety glasses and hand protection, but when you give it a little juice with air, of course, the sanding disc is going to rub up against here and clean it up nice.
Let's give it a try real quick. I'll show you what it does. As you could tell, that works really well. If you didn't want to go on our site and get one of these tools, you can get yourself one of our quality 1A Auto brushes. This just has some nice little tines on there for you. You would just take it, go like this, get it as clean as you could. I could spend more time, probably get it almost as clean as this. That looks pretty great. Practically new I'd say. Actually it is new, even better. If you want to see the video how to replace that, check it out.
All right, so we're just going to clean up our rotor here. A lot of times brand new rotors come with a coating on them that just helps prevent rust and anything really from messing up the nice, beautiful surface that they made. I just like to take a little bit of parts cleaner, give it a little spray, and wipe it down. That looks great. I'm going to grab some copper never seize, I'm just going to try to spray the base of this. That's right where the rotor's going to be mating up against. The reason for that is it's going to help keep moisture out of there and also make it so the rotor's going to come off easily when it's time to take it back off someday to do another brake job. Take this. Awesome.
Now's a great time, before we get the caliper on here, just to double check and make sure that the backing plate hasn't been bent in, because if it's hitting up against the rotor now. It's obviously going to hit up against the rotor later. Give it a little spin. That sounds horrible, so let's check it out. Carefully give it a little push. Obviously there are some sharp edges. Your backing plate may or may not look like this, but if it has sharp edges, I want you to be super careful. Just going to take a pry bar. Just try to help this backing plate along. It's seen its day. It's obviously not in the best condition, but just keep working your way around. Find all the places where it might be hitting and just maneuver it away a little bit. Looks like it's hitting just a teeny bit right down here still. Ooh, love it.
Okay, so now it's time to mount the caliber. And whether you have an old caliper or a new caliper, you're going to need to prepare it. If you have an old caliper, what you're going to notice is it's more likely going to have rust right along here and here and here and here, and the same on the other side. Basically, right where the pads are going to ride, you're going to notice a lot of flakes of rust, so you're going to either need to scrape them or you can use a brush and clean them up. Just try to make them as smooth as possible. Once you have them as smooth as possible and you're sure that all the rust is clear from there, you're going to use a little bit of caliper grease--something like this. It's nothing special. You're going to put a couple little dabs right along those spots where the pads are going to ride. All four--boom, boom.
Next what you're going to do using the same caliper grease, you're going to go right on your pistons. And essentially what we're doing here, to make it short and sweet, is lubricating any areas where the pad touches the caliper. That's going to help with vibration dampening, noise reduction, and of course it's going to make a nice area for the pads to move around. Assuming you've got your caliper all nice and clean and dressed, we can continue.
Now we're going to take our caliber--bring it right over here. Work it right down. I know what you're thinking, who puts on the caliper without putting the pads together first? Well, you can think that if you want and that's fine. I'm not going to get mad at you, but I'm going to show you why. We're going to get this all together. We're going to get it torqued down and then we'll install the pads. I'm going to to grab my ratchet with my 17, snug it up, I'm going to bottom both these bolts out and we'll torque them down. Torque specification for this is 91 foot-pounds--Torqued and torqued. Awesome.
Now it's time to get the brake hose back into the bracket here and you might notice that when you were hanging it or whatever happened. Maybe the line straightened itself out or it changed its position or as we move this around, start noticing that it gets kind of close, which is good. Just going to try to spin this now. This forky is going right through. It's got this locked in perfectly. We don't have to worry about our flex hose moving around. I'd say that looks pretty great. Let's move along.
It's time to grab our pads. We've got our wear indicator. We already matched it up with the pads that we removed out of the vehicle, so we know that this is where it's going to be. The wear indicator, it's going to go on the inside. We're going to take our pad and slide it right in--just like this. That's cool. Same thing with this one. It should slide right in. If for some reason your pads don't slide in like this one does and it moves around very freely, odds are you still need to clean up your caliper a little better. Obviously this is a new caliber, so it's going to slide perfectly, but if it wasn't, and it was an old caliper and we tried cleaning it up with our brush and our screwdriver or whatever you use to get off the large chunks, if the pads can't move, you got a little bit more work to do.
To continue, I'm going to grab our pins and go through like this. I'm going to leave that one just like that. This one--I'm just going to go all the way through. Cool. Grab one of my little clips here. Go through this one. That feels great. Can't fall out. Awesome. The reason why I left this one like this, just because we got this little clippy-do here and what this is going to do is it's going to want to separate the pads. When you step on the brake, the pistons are going to squeeze the pads and then you release the brake, the pistons are going to want to go back in and this is going to make the pads go back out. Very nice. I'm going to go right over the pin just like this. Now I'm going to take this here, put it in, and everything's lined up great. Grab my other little clip and slide it through. Awesome.
Next what we're going to do, we're going to make it so this little piston goes inside the hole there and this ear comes up over the top of the pad. The same thing for this one. Awesome. Now let's assume we're inside the vehicle and we step on the brake, we release the brake, step on it, and release. That's doing its job. Something to pay attention to is when you mount this in, you want to make sure that this area of the clip isn't hitting up against your rotor. It's very possible that maybe it's bent a little bit and it wants to hit like this one is super close. What I like to do at this point, just grab it, and give it a little tug. Now I've got a pretty good distance between there and there. Just give it a little push. It goes back down. Let's try it again. Give a little push, goes back down, but it's still clearing the rotor. It's not hitting at all. At that point it looks perfect.
Now we're going to grab our wheel. These wheels can be heavy and I don't want you to hurt yourself, so instead of grabbing your wheel like this and trying to lift with your back and potentially hurting yourself, show you a little secret. You take your leg, I'm assuming you're not worried about your pants getting a little dirty. I'm just going to grab it like this. Roll it right up your leg. Now you can use your legs slash ab muscles to lift it right up. Use your leg to hold it. Balance it. See, that works pretty good. I'm going to take my lug nut, my socket. Put it right on here. Now that we know we've got one locked in, we can release it. Grab the rest of our lug nuts. We're going to start all these on. We'll bottom them out and then we'll torque them down.
All right, so let's bottom out these lug nuts. Perfect. We'll get this down on the ground and we'll torque them down to manufacturer specifications. Okay, friends, let's get our torque down. We've got our 21 millimeter socket. We've got our torque wrench set to 83 foot pounds. We're going to go in a crisscross manner. I'm just going to go around one one more time. It's a small price to pay for safety. Awesome.
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BKA10599
Happy with these brakes. This is the second time I've bought them and I plan on using them exclusively. they are quiet and stop great. wouldn't have had to replace them at all for a while if my caliper didn't seize up and I bought TRQ calipers to replace that too.
This brake kit was a direct fit no issues on my 2021 Tacoma.
Scratching and noises
Hi your products very good
Fit great, came on time and high quality
I had a great experience with my purchase. The costumer service was excellent price is good. I will definitely buy again from this company.
Bought the TRQ ceramic pads and rotor kit for my 2018 Toyota Tacoma. The fit was great and the pads are quiet and braking is smooth. Not sure if needed , but I always like to do a short break-in period when brakes and rotors are new. The first few days I will brake light and smooth and try to avoid any harsh braking. I liked the pads and rotors well enough, that I ordered a set for my wife's car. Good value and product!
Perfect
I have purchased several sets of brakes and rotors from 1A Auto for various types of cars. Every time they are delivered quickly and install easily- which is why I keep coming back to this company. I've had nothing but great experiences time and time again. Would highly recommend.
Exactly what I needed worked out great .
Please refer to our returns FAQ for any info regarding our return process! <a href="https://www.1aauto.com/customer_service/support_faq#refunds" target="_blank">https://www.1aauto.com/customer_service/support_faq#refunds</a>
