2003 Subaru Baja Front Semi-Metallic Brake Pads TRQ BFA73702

Hi, I'm Mike from 1A Auto. We've been selling auto parts for over 30 years.

Before we jack up the car, we're parked on level ground, and we're going to set the parking brake because we're jacking up the front of the car, we're going to leave the rear wheels on the ground.

Loosen the lug nuts with the vehicle on the ground. We're going to use a breaker bar and a 19-millimeter socket. If you've got a socket like this, it potentially might not fit inside of the lug openings. This particular car has very small lug openings, so I'm just going to use a basic chrome 19-millimeter socket because that fits great, and I'll use the breaker bar to break these free. Go around, get them all loose.

All right. I'll roll our jack underneath, I'm going to find the jacking point, just behind the oil pan, make sure you don't jack up the oil pan, get the jack set up here. Make sure you're doing this on level, flat, ground. Get this lined up. Bring the car up. Get the wheels off the ground. All right, set our jack stands up right here. Right between these two notches in the pinch weld. Put our lock pin back in. Set the jack up the same way on the other side. Put our lock in. Slowly lower the floor jack. I'm just going to leave the floor jack in place, just take some of the weight off of it, but the majority of the vehicle's weight is on the jack stands.

I'm just going to use the socket, finish taking off the wheel. I've already loosened the lug nuts, these should come off by hand. Take our wheel off, put it aside. I like to put the wheel underneath the car here, that way if the jack stand gets knocked out, the car will land on the wheel. I'm going to take our caliper and try to pull on it a little bit.

Turn the knuckle, that's fine. Basically, I want to try to compress the piston ever so slightly. Sometimes you can get a pry bar in here, or a large flat-bladed screwdriver. I'm just trying to compress the caliper ever so slightly so that when I go to take it off, it comes off the pads easier. If you can't get it, that's okay.

I'm going to remove the upper and lower caliper slide pin bolts. Use a 14-millimeter wrench, loosen them up. Get that one loose, and get this one loose down here. This caliper a little bit stuck on the pads. Just work it off. If you need to, you can use that pry bar, help you pop it off. Don't let it hang by the brake hose, so lift it up. Take a bungee cord, loop it up over the spring and put it right through here and right through here, and just push it back over here. Slide it out of the way.

Pop the brake pads out. Remove the upper and lower caliper bracket mounting bolts using a 17-millimeter socket, short extension, and a ratchet. Get the top one loose, and work on the bottom one. Lower one is on here pretty tight, you may need to use a breaker bar to get them loose. Breaker bar is set up here. That's all it needed, was a little extra leverage. Get this one out with my fingers, and I'll take this one out. I'll hold on to the bracket so it doesn't fall. Pull the bracket out, put that aside.

We're pretty lucky, this rotor is not frozen to the hub, it's nice and loose, so we're just going to pull it right off. It does have a couple holes in here, if you can appropriately sized bolts, you can thread them in here and help push the rotor off, or you can tap it off with a hammer if you had to. If it was loose, you can tap it from behind. We got lucky, this one's going to come right off.

These are our original pads and rotors we pulled from our vehicle, and our brand new set from 1AAuto.com. Same style pad. The wear indicators, just like the original. Same style rotor, same style lug holes, ventilated rotor. This will work great and fit great in your vehicle.

We can clean and reuse these caliper hardware. They're made out of stainless. Take some brake parts cleaner, and a wire brush, knock off all the heavy caliper brake pad grease. Take a rag, wipe them off. Repeat that for the other side. Now is a good time to just check the operation of your slide pins, make sure they move in and out freely. That one's pretty stiff. Let's see how this one goes. That one moves nice and freely. Pop this one out. Carefully pop it off the boot, come right out. It's in pretty good shape. Just wipe off the grease. It's in good shape. Take a little bit of brake caliper grease, apply it to the slide pin. Nice, evenly coated, put it back inside. Slides nicely.

Now take one of the slide pin bolts, thread it in here just to give myself some extra leverage. Try to pull it out of here. I'm going to carefully use a punch here, just try to gently tap this out. Turn it, try to hit it on a different side. So I'll go underneath here. This one's really seized in there. You might be able to save this, or the car might need a new caliper. So that's pretty dry and corroded. I'll clean it up. Let's spray some brake parts cleaner on here, and take the wire brush and just clean it up. There is a rubber grommet here on the end that you want to be careful of, but otherwise just clean this up. Wipe it off with a cloth. It's a little corroded but it's pretty smooth and we'll reuse it.

Spray some brake parts cleaner on here, clean out some of the old junk that's in there. Just wipe out some of the brake parts cleaner. Take our caliper grease, put a nice, even coating on here.

Back into our caliper bracket. There it is. Just had to get it over. So now it's moving nice and freely, so when the brake caliper moves, it'll slide in and out evenly. Perfect, this is ready to be reinstalled on the car.

I'm going to put the rotor on backwards first because these are packed with oil so they don't rust in the packaging, and I've been touching it so I've got some greasy hand prints on it, I don't want that getting on our brake pads. I'm going to put them on backwards, and I can use the brake parts cleaner to clean it off. You can use a rag to wipe off that grease. Now I can flip it over, install it the correct way. I'll take one of the lug nuts, this way the rotor doesn't fall off. Use the brake parts cleaner on the outside surface. Rotor hat is not as big a deal, you just want to make sure that this actual braking surface is nice and clean.

Reinstall the caliper bracket. Grab one of the bolts, get it over the rotor, and you might have to wiggle it around to get it caught. Top one caught, now get the bottom one caught. Usually once you get one caught, the other one's a little bit easier. I will come back and torque these. Torque the caliper mounting bolts to 88-1/2 foot-pounds. I'm going to torque them to 89, it's just easier on the torque wrench. I'll get this lower one. Once it clicks, it's all set.

I'm going to put the pad with the wear indicator on the inside, so just give it a quick spray with brake parts cleaner, clean it off. Put some caliper slide grease on the ears. And just a little bit on the back. Place it into the caliper. Make sure the curve of the brake pad matches the curve of the rotor. Do the same for the outer pad.

Taking an old brake pad, using a large C-clamp, this way I can compress both caliper pistons at the same time. Just going to go slowly, and make sure they're going in evenly. And they should go in just about to the edge of the boots, and I'll take this off. Take the old caliper out. Take the bungee cord off, don't forget to unhook it from your suspension. Put it aside. Make sure you don't tangle up your brake hose here. Slide it over the new pads. These have little, on the slide pin bolts, they have little flat edges. The flat edges will line up there, make sure this bottom one's lined up, push it in a little bit, and get that in place. Reinstall the two caliper slide pin bolts. Just snug those up a little bit. Torque on these is 19.9 foot-pounds, I'm going to torque them to 20, it's just easier. Once it clicks, you're all set, do the same for both. You don't want to over-torque these, they're small bolts. You break them off if you over-tighten them. That's all it takes.

This procedure will be the same for the opposite side.

Now I need to go inside the car, gently press on the brake pedal, because we need to bring that piston out to meet these pads. But you can see when you step on the brake, caliper goes in, it clamps the pads against the rotor. That's what stops the car. Take this lug nut off. Reinstall the wheel. Lower the vehicle to the ground. And when you're done with the other side, gently pump the brake pedal.

Reinstall the wheel. Start the lug nuts by hand. The thread went down pretty far. And then get an opposite one caught. Use the socket to thread them in.

We'll jack up the car, take it off the jack stands. Push the locks out. Do the same for the other side. Get this one out. Lower the vehicle to the ground.

I'm going to torque the lug nuts to 89 foot-pounds in a cross-pattern. Once it clicks.

I'm just going to gently press on the brake pedal, don't slam it to the floor, and push and you'll feel it get stiffer. Now the pistons have come out to meet the pads. Your brake job is complete.

Thanks for watching. Visit us at 1AAuto.com for quality auto parts, fast and free shipping, and the best customer service in the industry.

Hi. I'm Mike from 1AAuto. We've been selling auto parts for over 30 years!

In this video we are removing and replacing the front brake pads and rotors in a 2008 Subaru Outback. If you need these parts or other parts for your car, click the link in the description and head over to 1AAuto.com.

I'm going to pull this left front tire off. I'm going to use a 19 millimeter socket and a breaker bar. Just crack them free while it's still on the ground.

You're going to want to raise and support the front of the vehicle. We're using a lift but you can do this with jack and jack stands in your driveway. I'm going to loosen up the rest of the lugs. Once I get all the lugs off, pull the tire off.

I'm going to use a 14 millimeter wrench on this caliper right here. Get that bolt loose. Once you break it free you can do it by hand sometimes. You can also do this with a socket and a ratchet. Do the bottom one.

You use a small pry bar and compress the caliper a little bit so it's easier to remove. Just slip it in here. You can use flat blade screwdriver as well. Just compress it a little bit. It should slide off. There you go. It pulls out. There’s a lot of rust in there. I'm going to use a bungee cord. I'm going to wrap it around the strut and on the spring. Put that in the bracket there. You put this other end in the other hole, tuck that out of the way. Pull the pads out.

Use a 17 millimeter socket, extensions, and a ratchet. I'm going to take these caliper bracket bolts out. Break that one free. We'll break this one free. Take that out. This rotor slides off fairly easily. If your rotor was stuck on, you can take a hammer and hammer right here, and here, and here. You should be able to break the rust free so it pops right off.

We're going to take a little bit of brake parts cleaner and spray it on our pad slides right here. Take a wire brush and clean this up. Use a little more brake parts cleaner. Use a rag to wipe it off. Do the same to the other side. Pull these caliper pins out. Spray them down with a little brake parts cleaner and wipe them with a rag. Spray down in the hole with a little parts cleaner. Wipe it out with your rag. Should be good. Take a little brake caliper grease, put it on the pin, put it back in. Do the same for the other side.

We're going to clean up our hub and use a little wire brush. Get in here. This one's really not too bad. A little bit of rust right there. Use some brake parts cleaner. Clean that off.

These are our old brakes and rotors, pads and rotors. This is our new pads and rotors set up from 1AAuto.com. As you can see the pads are exactly the same, same squealers, same shape of the pads, same ends. If you look at the rotors, the rotors are the same height. Same machined holes. Flip them over. Same vented. These are vented discs. Same height that way. Get your parts at 1AAuto.com and you'll be ready to rock and roll.

We're going to put a rotor on backwards because we're going to clean it. Use some brake parts cleaner and a rag as a protective coating on these rotors so that they don't rust while it's on the shelf. We'll flip it over and put a lug nut on so that it holds the rotor on. Spray some brake parts cleaner on this side and wipe it with a rag.

I'm going to install our caliper bracket. Take the caliper bracket bolts, start one, then get the other one in. Start tightening these down with a 17 millimeter socket, extension and ratchet. Then we're going to torque these bolts to 89 foot-pounds.

We're going to install our brake pads. Use a little bit of caliper grease on the slides, where the brake pad goes into the slide. Then just a little bit on the back here. The squealer goes on the inside. Caliper grease on these ears and a little bit on the back here.

I'm going to take the caliper and take the bungee cord off. You're going to take the old brake pad and you're going to use a C-clamp to compress it. You just want to do this gently, slowly. It's going to be pushing the fluid from the caliper back up into the master, brake master cylinder reservoir. Because we did not disconnect the brake hose when doing this, we do not have to bleed the brakes when we're done. You want to make sure this brake hose is not twisted when reinstalling the caliper. Slide it on.

Install our brake caliper bolts. We're going to torque these caliper bolts to 20 foot-pounds. Take this nut off.

All right, now I'm installing the lug nuts. You're going to snug it right down and we'll torque it when we put it down on the ground. I'm going to torque the lug nuts in a star pattern. We're torquing them to 90 foot-pounds. The reason why you want to do a star pattern, it is going to get the wheel flush against the rotor properly and it won't be warped. It will prevent vibration.

Before you drive away, you're going to want to make sure that you pump the brake pedal slowly multiple times because there will be an air gap between the brake pads and the caliper. When you pump it, it will push the fluid back to the caliper and then compress the brake pads.

Thanks for watching. Visit us at 1AAuto.com for quality auto parts, fast and free shipping, and the best customer service in the industry.