Replaces
About TRQ:
TRQ is a trusted brand dedicated to making every repair a success story by combining premium parts with easy installation. Each TRQ part is engineered by a team of automotive experts to meet or exceed OEM standards, delivering enhanced performance and maximum longevity. With rigorous in-house testing, the brand ensures superior fit and function across every product line. TRQ also provides customers with best-in-class, step-by-step installation videos—so you can complete repairs with confidence, whether you're a first-time DIYer or an industry professional.
Product Features
TRQ suspension kits are manufactured using premium raw materials and coatings for extended service life. Each TRQ suspension component is designed to be a direct, maintenance-free replacement to the stock unit. To extend the life of your steering and suspension components, TRQ recommends replacing components in pairs, sets, or kits. All products are fit and road-tested in our Massachusetts R&D facility to ensure we deliver on our promise of Trusted Reliable Quality.
Install Tip: When replacing steering components, have a professional alignment performed afterwards. This ensures proper tracking and even tire wear.
Our steering and suspension components are pre-greased and sealed for long life and do not require the extra maintenance typically required by greaseable versions.
Attention California Customers:
WARNING: This product can expose you to chemicals including Lead and Lead Compounds, which are known to the State of California to cause cancer, and birth defects or other reproductive harm. For more information, go to www.P65Warnings.ca.gov.
This part fits 3 vehicles spanning 2000-2004.
| Year | Make | Model | Description |
|---|---|---|---|
| 2000-2001 | Infiniti | I30 | Infiniti I30 Front 8 Piece Steering & Suspension Kit TRQ PSA58702 |
| 2002-2004 | Infiniti | I35 | Infiniti I35 Front 8 Piece Steering & Suspension Kit TRQ PSA58702 |
| 2000-2002 | Nissan | Maxima | Nissan Maxima Front 8 Piece Steering & Suspension Kit TRQ PSA58702 |
| Brand Label | Part Number |
|---|---|
| Dorman | 520-517 |
| ACDelco | 45D3214 |
| Dorman | 520-518 |
| ACDelco | 45D3215 |
| MOOG Chassis Products | ES3438 |
| NAPA Premium | 2605413 |
| Datsun/Nissan | 54500-2Y412 |
| Dorman - OE Solutions | 520-518 |
| Precision Driveline | 5CB30029 |
| Ingalls Engineering | CAK620354 |
| Beck/Arnley | 101-4932 |
| Datsun/Nissan | 545012Y421 |
| MAS Industries | CB69003 |
| Nissan | 545002Y470 |
| Precision Driveline | CB30029 |
| Mevotech | CMS20458 |
| Mevotech | GS20458 |
| MOOG Chassis Products | K620355 |
| MAS Industries | CB69004PR |
| Nissan | 545006Y301 |
| Precision Driveline | CB30030 |
| MOOG Chassis Products | CK620355 |
| Mcquay-Norris | FA4286 |
| Nissan | 545012Y470 |
| Mevotech | MS20458 |
| MOOG Chassis Products | K620354 |
| Mevotech | CMS20459 |
| Raybestos Chassis | 507-1214 |
| Precision Driveline | 5CB30030 |
| Dorman - OE Solutions | 520-517 |
| Nissan | 545012Y412 |
| MOOG Chassis Products | EV458 |
| SYD | 1516002 |
| Mevotech | GS20459 |
| Datsun/Nissan | 545012Y412 |
| SYD | 1516001 |
| Datsun/Nissan | 545015Y720 |
| Mevotech | MS20459 |
| NAPA Premium | 2605412 |
| Falcon Steering Systems | FCA335 |
| Nissan | 545002Y412 |
| MOOG Chassis Products | K90432 |
| NAPA | 260-5412 |
| Datsun/Nissan | 545012Y470 |
| Nissan | 545012Y411 |
| Ingalls Engineering | CAK620355 |
| MOOG Chassis Products | RK620354 |
| Nissan | 545002Y411 |
| Raybestos Chassis | 507-1215 |
| MOOG Chassis Products | RK620355 |
| Centric Parts | 623.42057 |
| Centric Parts | 623.42056 |
| Beck/Arnley | 102-4932 |
| MAS Industries | CB69003PR |
| Datsun/Nissan | 545012Y411 |
| Mcquay-Norris | FA4285 |
| Beck/Arnley | 101-4931 |
| Datsun/Nissan | 545016Y301 |
| Beck/Arnley | 102-4931 |
| NAPA | 260-5413 |
| Nissan | 545016Y301 |
| Falcon Steering Systems | FCA336 |
| Datsun/Nissan | 545002Y470 |
| MOOG Chassis Products | CK620354 |
| MAS Industries | CB69004 |
| MOOG Chassis Products | K90431 |
| DIY Solutions | SUS07531 |
| DIY Solutions | SUS06673 |
| DIY Solutions | SUS06672 |
| DIY Solutions | SUS07380 |
| DIY Solutions | SUS05400 |
| DIY Solutions | SUS05399 |
| Falcon Automotive | CA335 |
| Falcon Automotive | CA336 |
| Mevotech | MK90431 |
| Mevotech | MES3438 |
| Mevotech | MK90432 |
| Mcquay-Norris | ES3438 |
| TRW Steering and Suspension Parts | JTE572 |
| Dorman | T3438XL |
| NAPA Chassis Parts | 2693103 |
| MAS Industries | T3438 |
| Centric Parts | 612.42024 |
| NAPA Chassis Parts | 269-3150 |
| Mevotech | MES3407 |
| Datsun/Nissan | 48520-0M085 |
| MAS Industries | T3407 |
| Firestone | ES3438 |
| NAPA Chassis Parts | 269-3103 |
| Parts Master | ES3438 |
| AutoZone | ES3438 |
| NAPA Proformer | ES3438 |
| Duralast | ES3438 |
| ACDelco | 45A0813 |
| Dorman | 534-601 |
| ACDelco | 45A0766 |
| TRW Steering and Suspension Parts | ES3438 |
| Import Direct Chassis | ER02002 |
| Mcquay-Norris | ES3407 |
| Centric Parts | 613.42121 |
| Raybestos Brakes | 401-1813 |
| Autospecialty | 03-51015 |
| Raybestos Brakes | 401-1766 |
| Autospecialty | 351015 |
| Datsun/Nissan | 546682Y000 |
| Datsun/Nissan | 485215Y425 |
| Datsun/Nissan | 485215Y485 |
| Datsun/Nissan | 546182Y000 |
| Datsun/Nissan | 485215Y085 |
| Datsun/Nissan | 485212Y085 |
| Datsun/Nissan | 485212Y405 |
| Datsun/Nissan | 485212Y485 |
| Datsun/Nissan | 485215Y025 |
| Datsun/Nissan | 485212Y425 |
| Datsun/Nissan | 485212Y025 |
| Datsun/Nissan | 485200M085 |
| Carquest | CA352B |
| Carquest | CA351B |
| Dorman - OE Solutions | 534-601 |
| Dorman - Premium | CB69003PR |
| Dorman - Premium | CB69004PR |
| Dorman - Premium | T3438XL |
| Hollander | 512-58322L |
| Hollander | 512-58521R |
| Datsun/Nissan | 485200M025 |
| INFINITI | 485200M025 |
| INFINITI | 48520-0M085 |
| Mevotech Supreme | MES3407 |
| Mevotech Supreme | GS20459 |
| Mevotech Supreme | MS20459 |
| Mevotech Supreme | CMS20459 |
| Mevotech Supreme | MES3438 |
| Mevotech Supreme | MS20458 |
| Mevotech Supreme | CMS20458 |
| Mevotech Supreme | GS20458 |
| Mevotech Supreme | MK90431 |
| Nissan | 54500-2Y400 |
| Nissan | 54501-2Y400 |
This item may be interchangeable with parts from other brands with the above part numbers. This information is provided only for reference and does not guarantee that the item you are purchasing is identical to parts with part numbers from the brands listed above. To confirm that this item fits your vehicle, use the above "Check Vehicle Fit" option.
Lifetime Warranty
This item is backed by our limited lifetime warranty. In the event that this item should fail due to manufacturing defects during intended use, we will replace the part free of charge. This warranty covers the cost of the part only.
FREE Shipping is standard on orders shipped to the lower 48 States (Contiguous United States). Standard shipping charges apply to Hawaii and Alaska.
Shipping is not available to a P.O. Box, APO/FPO/DPO addresses, US Territories, or Canada for this item.
Expedited is available on checkout to the United States, excluding Alaska, Hawaii.
Final shipping costs are available at checkout.
Created on:
Tools used
Brought to you by 1AAuto.com, your source for quality replacement parts and the best service on the Internet.
Hi, I'm Don from 1A Auto. I hope this how-to video helps you out, and next time you need parts for your vehicle, think of 1AAuto.com. Thanks.
In this video, we're going to show you how to replace a front stabilizer link on this 2003 Maxima, pretty much the same procedure for any of this era of Maxima. Stabilizer links will rattle if you're going over bumps. Then you'll notice if you're going through turns, at the same time the rattle will go away. That's usually a good sign that your stabilizer link is getting loose. What you'll need is a new pair of stabilizer links from 1A Auto. In this video, we show how to replace the right-hand or passenger side one; the left-hand is the same procedure. We always recommend you replace them in pair. You'll need jack and jack stand, and 15 and 21 millimeter sockets. You'll need a ratchet or a breaker bar and pipe for some extra leverage, and a 14-millimeter wrench. Let's start off by removing the wheel. You're going to want a 12 millimeter socket and ratchet, or a breaker bar or your tire iron.
You'll probably want to start with the wheel on the ground. Loosen the lug nuts. Then raise and secure the vehicle with jack stands. Then remove the wheel and the tire.
I'm removing the 15 millimeter nut on the lower stabilizer link. You need a breaker bar and a pipe. I've broken the nut free, but I'm going to use a 14 millimeter wrench to hold the link rod and continue. We'll speed up here as we take that nut the rest of the way off. Again, using a 15 millimeter socket on one side and holding the stabilizer link rod. It was a 14 millimeter wrench on the other. I'm removing the upper 15 millimeter nut on the stabilizer link. It's the same thing here. You see Don gets going with a little bit of extra leverage from that pipe, then uses a 14 millimeter wrench to hold on to the shaft basically between the boot and the bracket while he removes the nut the rest of the way. We've got two nuts off. Pull out the stabilizer rod.
Here's the front stabilizer link. Now, we'll speed it up as we tighten up both those nuts. You want to get them about as tight as you can with a ratchet handle. You can see that probably the hardest part of this repair is making sure you have a pipe or something to get those nuts loose initially. Once you break that free, then it's a pretty straight-forward repair, taking off two 15 millimeter nuts, taking the part out, putting a new part in from 1A Auto, and then tightening it up.
Fast-forward. Put your wheel and tire back on. Start the lug nuts by hand first, and then tighten them up preliminarily. Set your torque wrench to 100 foot pounds and tighten the lug nuts. Use a star pattern. Draw a star pattern as you tighten them. Then just recheck them.
We hope this video helps you out. Brought to you by www.1AAuto.com, your source for quality replacement parts and the best service on the Internet. Please feel free to call us toll-free, 888-844-3393. We're the company that's here for you on the Internet and in person.
Tools used
Brought to you by 1AAuto.com, your source for quality replacement parts and the best service on the Internet.
Hi, I'm Don from 1A Auto. I hope this how-to video helps you out, and next time you need parts for your vehicle, think of 1AAuto.com. Thanks.
In this video, we're going to show you how to replace the right hand outer tie rod on this 2003 Nissan Maxima. Obviously the left hand is the same procedure. This is the same for any 2000-2003 Maxima as well as the Infiniti I30.You'll need a new tie rod from 1aauto.com, jack and jack stands, 15-21 mm sockets. You'll need a ratchet and probably a breaker bar or a pipe for some extra leverage, pliers, a large hammer, penetrating oil, as well as you will, or we recommend, you get an alignment after you replace a steering component like this.
Let's start off by removing the wheel. You're going to want a 21 mm socket and ratchet or breaker bar or your tire iron and you'll probably want to start with the wheel on the ground, loosen the lug nuts, then raise and secure the vehicle with jack stands, and then remove the wheel and the tire.
At this point we're going to measure the distance between the end of the boot and the center of the top of the tie rod. It's roughly 11 and 3/4 inches. Yours might be different. It's always a good idea to use some penetrating oil on the lock nut. Spray that down and let it soak in. With our adjustable wrench, size up the nut holding on to the end of the tie rod, with a 13 mm open ended wrench holding the inner tie rod and free it up. Move the steering wheel to the right to gain better access. We're going to remove the securing cotter pin through the outer tie rod. We're just going to speed it up here as Don tries to get that cotter pin out. We couldn't get the cotter pin fully out, so we're going to use our 19 mm, 1/2 inch wrench and then try and sheer it. In this case we're going to use a little extra leverage with the bar on the end of our wrench. I'll speed it up here as we work that bolt the rest of the way off. Quick summary: we tried to get the cotter pin out. It just wouldn't come out. It was basically frozen in there so what we did is took the pliers and broke the ends off as much as we could and then just got the socket on there and sheered the cotter pin right off by moving the bolt.
To help release the outer tie rod from the spindle we use a hammer and hit against the spindle until it frees up. Now it's free. Pull the inner tie rod with your 14mm wrench and twist off the outer tie rod. OK, speed up and Don did misspeak a little bit there: he is using a 13 mm wrench to hold that tie rod.
We got the old outer tie rod and the new one and you can see that dimensionally they're very close, so when they go back in the alignment should be relatively close to what it was before we removed it. It's always a good idea to put a little anti-seize on the end of your inner tie rod so that if you ever have to replace it again, it'll come off just as easily as this did. Holding the inner tie rod, twist the new tie rod on. Check our length from the end of the boot to the center of the tie rod and it is 11 and 3/4 inches just like it was when we took it out. Place the other tie rod back into the spindle. It can be a little stiff. Now we'll secure the nut and set our torque wrench to 55 foot pounds and we're going to torque the nut. Now what you do is make sure that the hole in the outer tie rod matches the slot or one of the slots on the nut and if it doesn't, giving it a little bit more torque is acceptable to the point where the cotter pin slides through the outer tie rod. Bend the ends that come through back along the side of the nut. With the 13 mm wrench hold your inner tie rod and lock down on the nut. Fast forward here as we take that lug nut back off, put the wheel and tire on, and just put the lugs on by hand first and then preliminarily tighten them. Set your torque wrench to 100 foot pounds and tighten the lug nuts. Use a star pattern. Kind of draw a star pattern as you tighten them and then just recheck them.
We hope this helps you out. Brought to you by www.1AAuto.com, your source for quality replacement parts and the best service on the Internet. Please feel free to call us toll-free, 888-844-3393. We're the company that's here for you on the Internet and in person.
You guys at A1 Auto are exactly that... A1! The suspension parts fit flawlessly and the tutorial videos are super helpful should you get stuck when doing the repair. Thank you, thank you, THANK YOU! I will never use anyone else! Max
The price for the amount of parts included in the kit is great, and everything fit and is operating great! My only complaints (and the only reason I did not give it five stars) is that some of the replacement bolts are not the same size as either the original factory or what they say in the video. Because of this I had to stop in the middle of the repair to go buy an additional socket size that I shouldn't have needed. The other small issue I noticed was that after installing the castle nut for the ball joint of the lower control arms, and torquing to specs indicated in the video, the cotter pin hole was above the slots of the castle nut so that it is not going to prevent the nut from reversing. It seems that the hole for the hotter pin was positioned too high. The parts are made in China and other countries "as available" so I'm not so sure about the quality control and uniformity. But, it all installed and is functional and saved me a lot of money taking it somewhere so overall I am
With the help of the 1A Auto video this job was simple and took less time then I expected. The parts are well built and with the warranty you have no worries.
The left control arm did not fit. I had to purchase a MOOG control arm from Autozone which cost the entire purchase I had originally paid for in the 1A Auto parts. I thought I had found the perfect auto parts site particularly since women are always taken advantage of in auto parts stores, however due to this experience I probably won't buy auto parts from 1A Auto either.
PSA58702
No
