Nissan Altima Maxima Front & Rear 8 Piece Steering & Suspension Kit TRQ PSA58968

Brought to you by 1AAuto.com, your source for quality replacement parts and the best service on the internet. Hi, I'm Don from 1AAuto, I hope this how-to video helps you out, and the next time you need a part for your vehicle, think of 1AAuto.com. Thanks.

In this video, we show you how to replace a sway bar link on this 2003 Nissan Altima. It's the same process on these Altimas from 2002 to 2006. We show you how to replace the passenger side sway bar link, but it's the same process on the driver's side. The items you'll need for this is a new sway bar link from 1AAuto.com, flat blade screwdriver; 17mm, 19mm, and 21mm sockets and ratchet with a breaker bar or a piece of pipe for some extra leverage; a 19mm wrench, a hammer, jack and jack stands, and depending on the condition of your vehicle you may also need a torch. Start off by removing your wheel. If you don't have air-powered tools, you're going to want to loosen the lug nuts while the vehicle's on the ground, then jack it up and remove them the rest of the way. You'll want to douse the studs on the end of the links in penetrating oil. There's a 17mm nut to remove there, and then another 17mm nut right down here.

Put a 19mm wrench on the back, and then using your 17mm socket and ratchet and a piece of pipe or a breaker bar for some extra leverage, you want to just try to break that bolt free and remove it. Because of the condition of our bolt, however, we're forced to use a torch to heat it up so that we can remove it, but once it's heated up, we can remove it with the 19mm wrench and the 17mm socket. Then on this lower bolt, same thing, use a 19mm wrench in the middle there, and then use your 17mm socket and the breaker bar or piece of pipe. Again we have no luck with it and have to use a torch. Again, once it's heated up, it comes right out. Once those nuts are removed, that sway bar will pull right off. You can see in the back is the old sway bar link, and in the front is the new one from 1AAuto. You can see it's identical, and it will mount exactly the same. Feed your sway bar link up and into place and push those studs through those holes. Twist on the 19mm nuts that came with your sway bar. Then tighten both of those up until they're nice and firm. Replace your wheel, hubcap, and lug nuts. Tighten the lug nuts preliminarily, lower the vehicle, and tighten them the rest of the way. Then you want to torque the lug nuts in a crossing pattern to 100 foot pounds.

We hope this video helps you out. Brought to you by 1AAuto.com, your source for quality replacement parts and the best service on the internet. Please feel free to call us toll-free 888-844-3393. We're the company that's here for you on the internet and in person.

Hi, I'm Mike from 1A Auto. We've been selling auto parts for over 30 years!

Before you lift and support the vehicle, loosen the lug nuts with the wheel on the ground. Use a 21mm socket and a breaker bar. Lift and support the vehicle. Lug nuts loose. You can use the 21mm socket with just your hand. Finish removing the lug nuts. Remove the wheel, place it aside.

Replace the outer tire rod ends. Turn the whole hub assembly out so you can reach it. Start by removing this cotter pin. Use needle nose pliers, or side cutters. This one's pretty rusty. I'm going to grab onto it, and get the needle nose pliers in there. Trying to pry it. Pry it against the knuckle, there we go. Before you remove this, you will have to have the car aligned. I'll show you that I will mark this with some tape. Some people like to count the turns that it comes off. I'm just going to put some tape near the lock nut and mark it and thread it on in generally the same measurement or location so it will be close, but it will need to be aligned afterwards. Spray the lower castle nut with some rust penetrate before I try to remove it. It's pretty rusty. Also let's spray some up here on the lock nut to let that set. I'm going to come back to it. It should be ready to go.

I'll take an 18mm wrench and loosen the castle nut. Leave this nut on here for now, but fairly loose because I want to have the entire end captured in the end of the knuckle here so it doesn't try to turn while I undo the lock nut. I'm going to loosen this lock nut or jam nut ever so slightly because afterwards I'm going to take some masking tape and mark where it was so I don't want to thread it all the way back out. I just want to loosen enough so that I can get this tire rod end off. It's a 22mm. Just give it one more turn. So that should be just loose enough to get this outer tire rod off.

I'm going to take some masking tape and just mark where it was in case it moves. I'm just going to wipe off some of rust penetrate oil so the tape will stick. Take some masking tape and just mark where it was. That also keeps the nut from spinning out any further and will keep me in the general area of where it was. We'll remove the castle nut the rest of the way off.

It's pretty rusty, so you use the 18mm to get it off. Ball joint has a taper and it sits into the knuckle here. That's what makes it really tight. You can hit this with a hammer to try to break it free. You have to be very careful, as this knuckle is fragile. You could break the knuckle. It's better to use the ball joint removal tool, or tire rod end removal tool. I'm going to slide this underneath the tire rod end. I may need to turn it a little bit off it' seat. Use the appropriate sized wrench for your ball joint tool and thread it down and this will push the ball joint out of the knuckle. They tend to snap out like that. I was trying to hold the tool so I didn't drop it, but it’s okay. This will come right out with it loose. Tire end will thread right off. Now, you could try to count this if you didn't mark where this was or you moved it. I like putting the tape there, and just thread right off and there it is.

Here's our old tire rod end we pulled for our vehicle. This is our new one from 1AAuto.com. See how they're similar in design? They do have the same threads. The one from 1A Auto comes with a new castle nut. It also comes with a new cotter pin, and if you need a new lock nut, it comes with a new one. It should thread right into place and make our steering nice and tight again.

I'm going to take our new castle nut off. Put that aside. Just start by threading on the new tire rod end. I'm actually going to put it just about where the old one was. It was like that. Clean the grease off that's in here. Put your new tire rod in. Put it right into place. Sometimes you've got to push the ball joint a bit to line it up. Just like that.

Install our new castle nut. Thread the lock nut down. Just tighten it up nice. Use a little razor blade just to get our tape off. Use our 18mm again, and tighten the castle nut. Try and get it nice and tight and line it up with the hole for the cotter pin. Install our new cotter pin. Take needle nose pliers, turn it and bend it over. Tire rod end is replaced.

We reinstall our wheel, and we'll torque the lug nuts. Just going to use the socket to get these lug nuts as tight as you can by hand and torque the wheel afterwards once it's on the ground. Torque on the lug nuts is 73 to 86. I torque these to 80. Cross pattern. Job is complete.

Thanks for watching. Visit us at 1AAuto.com for quality auto parts, fast and free shipping, and the best customer service in the industry.

Hi, I’m Mike from 1A Auto. We’ve been selling auto parts for over 30 years!

Before you raise and support the vehicle, take a breaker bar and a 21mm socket and break the lug nuts free while the vehicle's on the ground. Raise and support your vehicle. Since the lug nuts are loose, I can use the socket and finish removing them. I remove the wheel, place it aside.

Working at the sway bar link, there are two nuts holding it on. And there is a 19mm head on the back on this that you can counterhold. So I'm going to put a 19mm wrench in there. Use some rust penetrant on the threads. Take a 14mm socket and a breaker bar and counterhold it. Break this free. I'm going to work on the upper one before it comes completely out. I've switched to a ratchet now that I've got it free. And I'm just going to turn it off.

These are locking nuts, so they can be a little slow moving. It's pretty common that the part on the back of the sway bar link, that you want to counterhold, there's sometimes just basically a round part with two flat spots for your wrench, and they can strip really easily. It's very, very common. So now I'm going to use some locking pliers because it's almost out. I'm going to try to lock the sway bar link in place, this part, so it can turn the nut without spinning the link inside the ball joint. Need to tighten these up. It's actually starting to smoke from the friction. Now I've got it past the locking part of the nut, it's coming a lot smoother.

You can actually see it steaming a little bit. It's not a completely round opening. It's sort of an oblong opening. That's what makes this nut a locking nut. It'll be easier to see on the brand new one. But that's why it's so difficult to come off. You can put an Allen key in here and try to counterhold it, that might work for a little while. Usually Allen keys strip out. The best bet is to try to get something behind it, like locking pliers or a wrench that fits to try to counter-hold this while you take it off. Going to remove the locking pliers now. This link should come out of this up here. You can finish removing the bottom. And counterhold the bottom. I'm actually going to put this link back in here so it's not bouncing around on me. Now our sway bar link is removed.

Here's our old sway bar link from our vehicle. Here's our brand new one from 1AAuto.com. They are similar in design and size. As you can see, it comes with locking nuts and that they have an oval shape to them. So as you tighten this down and it gets to this oval part, that's when it starts to lock. Here, we have the counter-hold area, so you can put a wrench on there and counter-hold it. On the originals, it just had flat spots and then they're mostly round so that's why they rounded off so easily when we were trying to remove it and had to use vice grips. These are easier to install by having the wrench on there. So this should fit great and get your car on the road.

Take our new sway bar link, slide it into place, and capture the bottom one. It's got like a ball joint in it so I'll throw the nut on here so it won't fall out. There's a ball joint on it so you can bend it a little bit, get it to fit. Capture this nut up here. Counter-hold with a 14mm. Use a 16mm wrench to tighten it. If you've got a ratcheting wrench, you can use that, or a socket and ratchet. It will start to get tighter as you come over the locking part. Just going to bring this bottom one snug and then we'll come back and torque it. Tighten up the top one the same way. Going to counter-hold the sway bar link.

Torque is 37 to 44, so I'm going to torque it to 40 foot-pounds. Repeat for the upper nut.

Install the wheel. Thread them on by hand first. Torque on these is 72 to 85. I've got the torque wrench set to 80 foot-pounds. Go in a cross pattern. The wheel's installed and torqued.

Thanks for watching. Visit us at 1AAuto.com for quality auto parts, fast and free shipping, and the best customer service in the industry.

Brought to you by 1AAuto.com, your source for quality replacement parts and the best service on the Internet. Hi. I'm John from 1A Auto. I hope this how-to video helps you out, and the next you need a part for your vehicle, think of 1AAuto.com. Thanks. In this video, we show you how to replace an outer tie rod on this 2003 Nissan Altima, and it's the same process on these Altimas from 2002 to 2006, and we show you on the passenger's side; however, it is the same process on the driver's side. The items you'll need for this is a new outer tie rod from 1AAuto.com, a 22-mm or 7/8-inch wrench, a 7-, 19-, and 21-mm sockets and ratchet, tape measure, pliers, and jack and jack stands. Start off by removing the wheel. If you don't have air-powered tools, you're going to want to loosen the lug nuts while the vehicle is on the ground. Then, jack it up and remove them the rest of the way.

First, measure from your inner tie rod to the end of your outer tie rod and remember that length. Next, you want to remove the cotter pin from this castle nut, and ours is in such bad shape that we actually just break it off, but what you should do is just pull it from the other side with a pair of pliers and pull it out. We just don't have that option. Once you have it removed, you want to remove this 19-mm castle nut. Then, using your 22-mm or 7/8-inch wrench, you want to just break this loose. Now, use a hammer and hit the knuckle to break the outer tie rod free, and then, it just lifts up and out, and you can just twist it off. On the right is the old outer tie rod. On the left is a new one from 1A Auto. You can see they're identical, and they'll mount exactly the same. Twist in this grease fitting, and just tighten it up. It's a 7-mm socket to do this. Then, twist your new outer tie rod into place. Then, put it into place in the knuckle, and replace that 19-mm castle nut and just tighten that up.

Now, you want to measure from your inner tie rod to the edge of the outer and make sure it's the right distance, and if it is, then you just want to tighten that nut up. If the distance needs to be adjusted, just turn the inner tie rod to get it correct, and you will want to have, if your vehicle doesn't steer correctly at all, you'll want to have your alignment checked and adjusted after this repair. Push your cotter pin through and just bend the ends of it. Replace your wheel, hubcap, and lug nuts, and tighten the lug nuts preliminarily, lower the vehicle, and tighten them the rest of the way. Then, you want to torque the lug nuts in a crossing pattern to 100 foot-pound. We hope this helps you out. Brought to you by 1AAuto.com, your source for quality replacement parts and the best service on the Internet. Please feel free to call us toll free 888-844-3393. We're the company that's here for you on the Internet and in person.