Positive Molded: Less dust resulting in clean wheels
Application Specific Design: Extended service life, no modifications
Hardware and grease included for a complete repair
Environmentally Compliant: Meets all Better Brake Law standards
Description
TRQ brake pads are manufactured using premium raw materials and design standards to restore original performance. TRQ brake pads are positive molded and utilize a multi-layer shim for enhanced performance and service life. TRQ’s combination of materials and design ensures a low dust and low noise braking experience. TRQ recommends replacing your brake rotors when you replace your brake pads to ensure even wear of components and improved braking comfort. All products are fit and road-tested in our Massachusetts R&D facility to ensure we deliver on our promise of Trusted Reliable Quality.
Attention California Customers:
WARNING: This product can expose you to chemicals including Lead and Lead Compounds, which are known to the State of California to cause cancer, and birth defects or other reproductive harm. For more information, go to www.P65Warnings.ca.gov.
Lifetime Warranty
This item is backed by our limited lifetime warranty. In the event that this item should fail due to manufacturing defects during intended use, we will replace the part free of charge. This warranty covers the cost of the part only.
FREE Shipping is standard on orders shipped to the lower 48 States (Contiguous United States). Standard shipping charges apply to Hawaii and Alaska.
Shipping is not available to a P.O. Box, APO/FPO/DPO addresses, US Territories, or Canada for this item.
Expedited is available on checkout to the United States, excluding Alaska, Hawaii.
Final shipping costs are available at checkout.
How to Replace Front Brakes 1994-2005 Honda Civic
How To Replace Front Brakes 1990-97 Honda Accord
Created on:
Tools used
12mm Socket
Large C-Clamp
Torque Wrench
17mm Socket
Jack Stands
19mm Socket
Flat Blade Screwdriver
Phillips Head Screwdriver
Anti-Seize Grease
Ratchet
Wire Brush
Floor Jack
1/2 Inch Breaker Bar
1. Removing the Wheel
Loosen the 19mm lug nuts with the vehicle on the ground
Raise the vehicle with a floor jack
Secure the vehicle on jack stands
Remove the lug nuts
Pull off the wheel
2. Removing the Brake Pads and Rotor
Remove the two Phillips screws from the rotor
Unbolt the two 12mm caliper bolts from the caliper bracket
Pry the brake pads into the caliper with a flat blade screwdriver to push in the pistons
Pull the caliper aside
Remove the brake pads
Unbolt the 17mm bolts from the caliper bracket
Remove the caliper bracket
Remove the rotor
3. Installing the New Brake Pads and Rotor
Clean the rotor with brake parts cleaner
Mount your new rotor onto the hub
Apply a dab of anti-seize grease to the Phillips screws
Tighten the Phillips screws to the rotor
Clean the brake pad slides with a wire brush
Mount the caliper bracket onto the rotor
Apply grease to the brake pad tabs
Use a large C-clamp and the old pad to push the pistons back
Put the caliper on
Apply grease to the caliper bolts
Thread bolts by hand
Torque the caliper bracket bolts and the caliper bolts to 74 foot-pounds
4. Reattaching the Wheel
Slide the wheel into place
Start the lug nuts by hand
Tighten the lug nuts preliminarily
Lower the vehicle to the ground
Tighten the lug nuts to 100 foot-pounds in a crossing or star pattern
Brought to you by 1AAuto.com, your source for quality replacement parts and the best service on the internet.
Hi, I'm Jeremy from 1AAuto. I'm going to help you fix your car today, and the next time you need parts for your car think of 1AAuto.com. Thank you.
In this video, we're going to show you how to replace the front brakes on a 2003 Honda Civic. It's pretty much the same for a 2001-2005 Honda Civic. The tools that you'll need for this job include a jack and jack stands, 19mm socket and breaker bar, 12mm wrench, 17mm wrench, Phillips screwdriver, large c-clamp, wire brush, some anti-seize, and a torque wrench.
The first step is to break the lug nuts loose, and you do that by leaving the car on the ground so that the wheel doesn't spin when you lift up on it. Here we go. Now we're going to raise the car up and take the wheel off. Now we're going to pull it off.
The next step is to pull these two screws out of the rotor. Normally they're stuck in there really tight, so I try to use a screwdriver first, and then go on to more drastic measures if need be. These are actually coming out.
The next step is to remove these two 12mm bolts that hold the caliper to the caliper bracket. You can use a ratchet or the style wrench. One trick is to connect the two wrenches together, and then bump them with your fist so you can pull them out. The next thing I like to do is pull the caliper really hard toward me so that it compresses the piston inside the caliper. It makes the caliper loose, making it easier to remove. Remove the caliper.
Now we can take the brake pads out. These ones are in pretty good shape, so we'll probably end up putting these right back in. Then you're going to take off the caliper bracket, which, once again, you can use the same method of linking the wrenches together to break it loose. Now the caliper bracket is off.
Now that we have the caliper bracket off, we can take off the rotor, as you can see.
For reinstall, place the rotor back on the hub. Apply a little anti-seize to the Phillips screws, and put them back in the rotor. Clean up the brake pad slides to make sure that they're not going to make the brake pad bind up and cause uneven brake pad wear. Now we have the caliper bracket that needs to go back on.
Then we can put the bracket right back on after it's nice and clean. We are now ready to put the brake pads in. Normally, they're brand new and you can just slide them in, where this one is used. I'm probably going to put a little anti-seize on this as well. It does exactly what it is called, and it prevents the brake pads from sticking in the slides. You can see the squeaker right here. This is the thing that makes all the noise whenever you need new brake pads. That goes right here on the inside. You're going to need to compress this caliper. The best way to do that is actually with a giant C-clamp. As you can see, as you tighten the C-clamp, it pushes the piston in. Pretty awesome, right? Now it's completely compressed and you can pull the C-clamp out.
Like I said before, put the caliper on. Here's the caliper bolts. Once again, anti-seize. If you live in a dry climate, these things won't be rusty, but in New England, they're always rusty. Voila, your brakes are back together again.
It's now time to put the tire back on. Slide the wheel into place and tighten the lug nuts preliminarily. Lower the vehicle to the ground. The last step is to torque the wheels. I usually a hundred foot-pounds on pretty much all the wheels that I tighten. Basically, grab your torque wrench, always do it in a cross pattern so that the wheel goes on straight. Now the pedal's pumped and the brakes feel good again.
Hopefully this video has helped you out. You can visit us at 1AAuto.com for replacement parts and the best service on the internet.
Tools used
21mm Socket
Large C-Clamp
Flat Blade Screwdriver
Torque Wrench
14mm Socket
17mm Socket
Jack Stands
Lug Wrench
Ratchet
Floor Jack
1. Removing the Wheel
Remove center cap
While your car is still on the ground, use your 21mm socket to loosen your lug nuts
Jack up and secure your car with jack stands
Remove the lug nuts with your 21mm socket and ratchet
Remove the wheel and set aside
2. Removing the Calipers
Remove the 14mm bolts to remove the calipers
Use a wire tie to fasten the caliper out of the way
Use your 17mm socket and ratchet to remove your caliper brackets
Pop out your brake pads
3. Install New Pads
Check your caliper pins to make sure they are in good working order
Put your caliper bracket back on, and tighten the 17mm bolts to 70 ft lbs
Insert your new pads into the brackets
Use your C-clamp or caliper tool to compress your caliper
Place your caliper onto the bracket
Tighten your 14mm bolts
4. Replacing the Wheel
Make sure to use a star pattern when putting your wheel lugs back on
Tighten to 75-85 ft lbs
Replace center cap
5. Testing the Brakes
Before driving the car again, start it up and pump the brakes a few times to get the pistons in the brakes in place
Test the brakes in your driveway before taking the car onto the road
Brought to you by 1AAuto.com. Your source for quality replacement parts and the best service on the Internet.
Hi, I'm Mike Green. I'm one of the owners of 1A Auto. I want to help you save time and money repairing or maintaining your vehicle. I'm going to use my 20 plus year experience restoring and repairing cars and trucks like this to show you the correct way to install parts from 1AAuto.com. The right parts installed correctly, that's going to save you time and money. Thank you and enjoy the video.
In this video, we'll be replacing the front brake pads on this '95 Accord, same as any '94 to '97 Accord. Tools you'll need are a flat blade screwdriver, 14 mm, 17 mm, and 18 mm sockets with ratchet, and a large C-clamp, and obviously jack and jack stands.
Start on these aluminum wheels by removing the center cap. Next, if you don't have the benefit of air tools you want to loosen your lug nuts while your car is still on the ground, and then after you loosen the lug nuts jack it up and support it. You always want use a jack and you want to use a jack stand. Then, remove the lug nuts and the wheel. These are 18 mm bolts.
Now we have the tire off and you can see I've turned the wheels all the way to the right. Now to remove the caliper you want to remove four bolts, one, two, and then inside here these larger bolts. This one up here, three, and then its counterpart right down here, four. These two bolts are 14 mm. They actually hold the caliper to this larger bracket. The other two bolts are larger. They're 17 mm on this car. After you remove the larger bolts, now your whole assembly will come off the rotor. Here's your whole caliper assembly and here are your pads. You can take this large bracket off your caliper. Put your caliper up there, and then your pads just come right out.
Once you've removed your caliper and your pads, you want to determine if you can reuse your rotors. There're three ways. There's the technical way which is you measure how thick they are, and I will if your rotors look very crusty and old I'd just replace them. You can see on these rotors they're actually off the market set of rotors. They look pretty good. They don't look worn down. I can take my finger and run it across and I don't feel any deep gouges or grooves. I just feel very fine like vinyl record type grooves in it. You want to check both the face of it and the backside as well. These rotors are fine. I'm going to reuse them. If you feel like you need to replace your rotor you're going to want to check out our other videos. Changing the rotors on these cars require some more advanced tools and requires taking apart of the steering knuckle. For this video we're going to go back to showing you how to put the pads back on. You're going to want to take your big bolts, slide it in behind. Get the bolts started. Now we'll take those 17 mm bolts up. They probably should be about 70 foot pounds. I'm just using a nice big half-inch ratchet and pulling good and hard. Now these brake pads are actually fine. They have a lot of life left on. You do want to make sure you check the other side as well, which I did on this car, and both sides the brake pads the wear was nice and even. There can be times where one side will look fine and then the other side is worn down more, and you always want to replace sides at the same time.
This tab here is your wear tab. You want to make sure you put this pad on the backside with the wear tab facing up. That's when your pads start to wear out that tab is going to start making that squeaking noise so you know that you need to replace your brakes, that one in and this one. Now if you're replacing your pads with new pads, your caliper, this piston is going to work its way out. What you want to use is a large C-clamp. Now as I tighten you can see that the piston will go back in to the caliper. You need to work the piston all the way back in in order to get it down over the new brake pads. Now with your caliper back, we can just put it all right on and your bolts. These are 14 mm bolts. I'm just going to tighten them up a little bit with my air wrench here. Now I'm going to use my hand ratchet to tighten them up the rest of the way so I know how tight they are. Never want to use an impact wrench to tighten bolts like that because what you can end up doing is breaking those bolts, and obviously on a brake system you don't want any broken bolts. We put the wheel back on. Again, I'm just going to use my impact wrench to tighten them up a little bit.
Once you have the car down on the ground, use a nice big wrench, and then generally lug nuts you want to tighten up between 75 and 85 foot pounds. I usually just use a breaker bar and get them tight. Take your cap put it back on. Very important, you want to pump your brakes a bunch of times before you test drive because when you have pushed the pistons back into the calipers it'll take a few presses of the brakes for the pistons to work their way out enough to make the brakes effective. You want to pump your brakes a bunch of times, and then just be very careful when you first test drive the car because on the first few times you use your brakes the brakes might not work exactly great until the pistons have worked their way back out.
We hope this helps you out. Brought to you by www.1AAuto.com, your source for quality replacement parts and the best service on the Internet. Please feel free to call us toll free, 888-844-3393. We're the company that's here for you on the internet and in person.
BFA73596
In Stock
Product Reviews
Loading reviews
Customer Q&A
No questions have been asked about this item.
Customer service
877-844-3393
Monday - Friday 8:00am - 9:30pm ET Saturday - Sunday 8:00am - 4:30pm ET
Honda is a registered trademark of Honda Motor Co., Ltd. 1A Auto is not affiliated with or sponsored by Honda or Honda Motor Co., Ltd.See all trademarks.
Enter Vehicle Year Make Model
Specify your vehicle's year, make and model to guarantee fit.
Year
Make
Model
Options
Drivetrain
This part doesn’t fit a . Select from parts that fit.