About TRQ: TRQ is a trusted brand dedicated to making every repair a success story by combining premium parts with easy installation. Each TRQ part is engineered by a team of automotive experts to meet or exceed OEM standards, delivering enhanced performance and maximum longevity. With rigorous in-house testing, the brand ensures superior fit and function across every product line. TRQ also provides customers with best-in-class, step-by-step installation videos—so you can complete repairs with confidence, whether you're a first-time DIYer or an industry professional.
Product Features
Application Specific Design: No modifications necessary
Anti-Corrosion Coated: Enhanced surface life
Pre-greased: No additional maintenance required
Kitted for Restored Performance: Improved road-feel and handling
Description
TRQ suspension kits are manufactured using premium raw materials and coatings for extended service life. Each TRQ suspension component is designed to be a direct, maintenance-free replacement to the stock unit. To extend the life of your steering and suspension components, TRQ recommends replacing components in pairs, sets, or kits. All products are fit and road-tested in our Massachusetts R&D facility to ensure we deliver on our promise of Trusted Reliable Quality.
Install Tip: When replacing steering components, have a professional alignment performed afterwards. This ensures proper tracking and even tire wear.
Our steering and suspension components are pre-greased and sealed for long life and do not require the extra maintenance typically required by greaseable versions.
Attention California Customers:
WARNING: This product can expose you to chemicals including Chromium (Hexavalent Compounds), which is known to the State of California to cause cancer, and birth defects or other reproductive harm. For more information, go to www.P65Warnings.ca.gov
Lifetime Warranty
This item is backed by our limited lifetime warranty. In the event that this item should fail due to manufacturing defects during intended use, we will replace the part free of charge. This warranty covers the cost of the part only.
FREE Shipping is standard on orders shipped to the lower 48 States (Contiguous United States). Standard shipping charges apply to Hawaii and Alaska.
Shipping is not available to a P.O. Box, APO/FPO/DPO addresses, US Territories, or Canada for this item.
Expedited is available on checkout to the United States, excluding Alaska, Hawaii.
Final shipping costs are available at checkout.
How to Replace Tie Rod 2002-06 GMC Envoy XL
How to Replace Ball Joint 2003-06 GMC Envoy XL
How to Replace Control Arm 2002-09 GMC Envoy XL
Created on:
Tools used
Torque Wrench
Hammer
Rust Penetrant
Jack Stands
19mm Socket
10mm Wrench
21mm Socket
Measuring Tape
Flat Blade Screwdriver
26mm Wrench
22mm Wrench
Ratchet
Floor Jack
Needle nose pliers
1. Removing the Wheel
Pry off the hub cap with a flat blade screwdriver
Loosen the 35mm hub nut with the vehicle on the ground
Loosen the lug nuts
Raise the vehicle with a floor jack
Secure the vehicle on jack stands
Remove the lug nuts
Pull off the wheel
2. Removing the Outer Tie Rod
Spray both ends of the outer tie rod with penetrating oil
Measure from the either end of the outer tie rod
Place a 26mm wrench on the larger nut
Place a 22mm wrench on the smaller nut
Break the 22mm nut free
Straighten the cotter pin with pliers and pull it through
Remove the nut with a 21mm socket from the wheel knuckle
Hit the wheel knuckle with a hammer
Twist off the outer tie rod
Remove the 22mm nut off the outer tie rod
3. Installing the New Outer Tie Rod
Mark where the 22mm nut was located on the old tie rod to the new tie rod
Screw on the nut
Twist the outer tie rod into place
Push the outer tie rod into the wheel knuckle
Measure and check the outer tie rod distance
Tighten the 21mm nut on the wheel knuckle
Insert and twist the cotter pin with a pair of pliers
Tighten the two nuts on the outer tie rod
4. Reattaching the Wheel
Slide the wheel into place
Start the lug nuts by hand
Tighten the lug nuts preliminarily
Lower the vehicle to the ground
Tighten the hub nut
Torque the lug nuts to 100 ft/lbs in a crossing or star pattern
Torque the hub nut to 103 ft/lbs
Reattach the center cap
Brought to you by 1AAuto.com, your source for quality replacement parts and the best service on the Internet.
Hi, I'm Mike from 1A Auto. I hope this how-to video helps you out, and next time you need parts for your vehicle, think of 1AAuto.com. Thanks.
In this video, we're going to show you how to replace an outer tie rod on this 2003 GMC Envoy XL. We show you on the passenger side, but the driver side is a similar procedure. The items you'll need for this include a new outer tie rod from 1AAuto.com, 19mm and 21mm socket and ratchet, 10mm, 22mm and 26mm wrenches, flat blade screwdriver, tape measure, pliers, hammer, torque wrench, and jack and jack stands.
Start by removing your wheel and tire. Pry off the cap first. If you don't have the benefit of air tools, you'll want to loosen the lug nuts, then raise and secure the vehicle on jack stands, and remove the lug nuts the rest of the way. We have air tools, so we put the vehicle up on jack and jack stands, remove the lug nuts, and remove the wheel and tire.
Start off by just spraying both ends of your outer rod with some penetrating oil. This will just help to remove those nuts. Then you want to measure from the end of the first nut on the outer tie rod to the center of this nut. You can see we actually marked on the outer tie rod where you should measure to. You want to make sure when you put your new outer tie rod on that it's the same distance.
Put a 26mm wrench on the larger nut and a 22mm wrench on the smaller nut. Just break that smaller one free. Now, using a pair of pliers, just straighten out this cotter pin. Once it's straightened out, try to hit it through or pull it through. If it doesn't move, then you can just break off this end. You just move each tab up and down until it breaks off. After you've done that, you can again try pulling it from the other side. If that doesn't work, you can just use a hammer and a punch.
Using a 21mm socket, just remove that nut. Hit the wheel knuckle with a hammer. That will just break that free. Then you can just twist your outer tie rod off. Now, just remove that nut on the outer tie rod the rest of the way.
I can see that my bolt was on to here, so I'm just going to make a mark on the new one to here. That's where I'm going to put my bolt onto, just a preliminary alignment. Twist the outer tie rod into place. Make sure that rubber boot is back on there. Then push the outer tie rod up into the wheel knuckle.
Just measure and make sure it's the same distance. If it is, you're all set. If not, you want to just adjust the nuts on the end of the outer tie rod. Since it is, we're just going to replace this nut and tighten it up. You can see we're using a 10mm wrench to just hold the stud steady. Now just tighten up these two nuts.
Replace your wheel. Replace the lug nuts and tighten them up preliminarily. Lower the vehicle. Tighten them the rest of the way, and torque each of them to 100 foot-pounds in a crossing pattern.
We hope this video helps you out. Brought to you by www.1AAuto.com, your source for quality replacement parts and the best service on the Internet. Please feel free to call us toll-free, 888-844-3393. We're the company that's here for you on the Internet and in person.
Tools used
Razor Blade / Gasket Scraper
15mm Wrench
Torque Wrench
Hammer
15mm Socket
Ball Joint Press
Rust Penetrant
Pry Bar
Jack Stands
19mm Socket
10mm Wrench
Grease Gun
Bearing Grease
Flat Blade Screwdriver
Wire Ties
10mm Socket
Ratchet
Floor Jack
Wire Cutters
1. Removing the Wheel
Pry off the center cap with a flat blade screwdriver
Loosen the lug nuts with the vehicle on the ground
Raise the vehicle with a floor jack
Secure the vehicle on jack stands
Remove the lug nuts
Pull off the wheel
2. Removing the Ball Joint
Separate the axle from its housing with a pry bar and a hammer
Unclip the brake line from its clips
Remove the ball joint retaining ring with a hammer and punch
Remove two 10mm bolts from the steering knuckle bracket
Apply penetrating oil to the control arm nut and bolt
Remove the 15mm nut and bolt from the control arm
Strike the control arm with a hammer to loosen it
Pull the steering knuckle forward
Support the wheel knuckle with wire ties
Cut off the ball joint boot with a razor
Fit a ball joint press to the ball joint
Tighten the press to press out the ball joint
Remove the ball joint press
Tap out the ball joint with a hammer
3. Installing the New Ball Joint
Push the new ball joint into place
Fit the ball joint press onto the ball joint
Tighten the ball joint press to press in the ball joint
Tap the ball joint in with a hammer
Tap the snap ring into place with a hammer and punch
If you are replacing the snap ring, put the new ring on with snap ring pliers
Push the steering knuckle into place
Push the control arm onto the ball joint
Tap the control arm onto the ball joint with a hammer
Start the 15mm nut and bolt into the control arm
Remove the wire ties from the steering knuckle
Push the axle into its housing
Tighten the 15mm nut to 50 foot-pounds of torque
Fasten the grease fitting onto the ball joint with a 10mm wrench
Add grease to the ball joint with a grease gun
Insert the two 10mm bolts into the steering knuckle bracket
Clip the brake line into place
4. Reattaching the Wheel
Slide the wheel into place
Start the lug nuts by hand
Tighten the lug nuts preliminarily
Lower the vehicle to the ground
Tighten the lug nuts to 100 foot-pounds in a crossing or star pattern
Reattach the center cap
Brought to you by 1AAuto.com, your source for quality replacement parts and the best service on the Internet.
Hi, I'm Mike from 1A Auto. I hope this how-to video helps you out, and next time you need parts for your vehicle, think of 1AAuto.com. Thanks.
In this video, we're going to show you how to replace an upper ball joint on this 2003 GMC Envoy XL and we show you on the passenger's side but the driver's side is the same procedure. The items you'll need for this are a new upper ball joint from 1AAuto.com; flat blade screwdriver; 10, 15, and 19 millimeter socket and ratchet; 15 millimeter wrench; hammer; punch; snap ring pliers, depending on the condition of your old ring around your ball joint; razor; ball joint press; jack and jack stands; and a torque wrench.
Start off by removing your wheel and tire. Pry off the cap first. If you don't have the benefit of air tools, you want to loosen the lug nuts then raise and secure the vehicle on jack stands and remove the lug nuts that way. We have air tools so we put the vehicle up on jack and jack stands to remove the lug nuts and remove the wheel and tire.
Using a pry bar or a large flat blade screwdriver, just insert it in between the axle and the axle housing and just hammer it to separate the axle. Now, remove this clip here, and ours is broken so we're just going to use some wire cutters to remove the wire tie, but normally you just pry the clip open with the flat blade screwdriver. There's a rotating ring that holds the ball joint in. You want to use a punch and a hammer and you can see we do it before we release the upper control arm. You want to get that retaining ring out. Next, remove these two 10 millimeter bolts. We'll fast forward as Mike does that. Just pull the wheel knuckle forward and just make sure your axle pulls free and then support your wheel knuckle with wire ties or string just so that it's not being supported by those harnesses. We're just going to cut off this boot around the ball joint.
With this little tool, we'll be able to press on the hard part of the ball joint and we actually have the augment ours with another little attachment. Then this cup goes around the outside of the ball joint there. Put the press on here. Now, the press will be pushing around the edge of the ball joint and down into the cup and the cup is holding. It's not hitting the ball joint. It's holding around the steering knuckle. It's very important that you line everything up straight. Go nice and slow. You can see the ball joint has been pushed down and out.
Take your new ball joint and push it up into place. Push that up in. You need a sleeve to go up on top and this can just contact right against the bottom of your ball joint. We use the press to push the ball joint up and in and sometimes it helps to just use a hammer. You put a lot of pressure on with the press then use the hammer to get the ball joint, and seed it all the way in. If your old ring is still in good condition, just hit it back into place. Otherwise, use snap ring pliers and put the new snap ring into place.
Push the wheel knuckle back and then just push your upper control arm down on to the ball joint and hammer it down the rest of the way and just slide that bolt through. Replace the nut and make sure you remove your wire ties or string. Push the axle back into place. We'll fast forward as Mike tightens this up. Torque this to 50 foot-pounds. Twist the grease fitting into place and tighten it up with a 10 millimeter wrench. If you have a grease gun, just top it off. Then, just put the bolts back into place and re-clip your harness. Our clip is broken so we're just going to use a wire tie and then just tighten up those two 10 millimeter bolts.
Replace your wheel and replace the lug nuts and tighten them up preliminarily. Lower the vehicle, tighten the rest of the way and torque each of them to a hundred foot-pounds in a crossing pattern. Once you have them torqued, replace you cap then you should be all set.
We hope this video helps you out. Brought to you by www.1AAuto.com, your source for quality replacement parts and the best service on the Internet. Please feel free to call us toll-free, 888-844-3393. We're the company that's here for you on the Internet and in person.
Tools used
15mm Wrench
Torque Wrench
Hammer
15mm Socket
Rust Penetrant
Jack Stands
19mm Socket
Wire or String
21mm wrench
Flat Blade Screwdriver
Wire Ties
Ratchet
Floor Jack
Needle nose pliers
Wire Cutters
1. Removing the Wheel
Pry off the center cap with a flat blade screwdriver
Loosen the lug nuts with the vehicle on the ground
Raise the vehicle with a floor jack
Secure the vehicle on jack stands
Remove the lug nuts
Pull off the wheel
2. Removing the Control Arm
Apply penetrating oil to the 15mm bolt that holds the control arm to the steering knuckle Remove the 15mm bolt that holds the control arm to the steering knuckle
Pry the brake line from its clips with a flat blade screwdriver
Strike the control arm with a hammer to separate it from the steering knuckle
Secure the knuckle with wire ties, wire, or string
Apply penetrating oil to the two 21mm control arm bolts
Remove one 21mm bolt from the control arm
Loosen the other 21mm bolt
Push out the second 21mm bolt with a hammer and a flat blade screwdriver
Pull off the control arm
Strike the remaining bolt out of the control arm with a hammer
3. Installing the New Control Arm
Pry the brake line clips out of the control arm with a flat blade screwdriver
Push the new control arm into place
Start the two 21mm bolts into the control arm
Tighten the two 21mm bolts preliminarily
Remove whatever is securing the wheel knuckle
Put the control arm onto the wheel knuckle
Tap the control arm onto the wheel knuckle using a hammer
Start the 15mm bolt and nut that hold the control arm to the steering knuckle
Tighten the 15mm bolt to 50 foot-pounds of torque
Push the brake line clips onto the new control arm
Clip the brake line into the clips
4. Reattaching the Wheel
Slide the wheel into place
Start the lug nuts by hand
Tighten the lug nuts preliminarily
Lower the vehicle to the ground
Tighten the lug nuts to 100 foot-pounds in a crossing or star pattern
Reattach the center cap
Brought to you by 1AAuto.com, your source for quality replacement parts and the best service on the Internet.
Hi, I'm Don from 1A Auto. I hope this how-to video helps you out, and next time you need parts for your vehicle, think of 1AAuto.com. Thanks.
In this video, we're going to show you how to replace an upper control arm on this 2003 GMC Envoy XL. We show you on the passenger side, but the driver's side is the same procedure. The items you'll need for this are a new upper control arm from 1AAuto.com, flat blade screwdriver, 15mm and 19mm socket and ratchet, 15mm and 21mm wrenches, a hammer, torque wrench, pliers, and jack and jack stands.
Start out by removing your wheel and tire. Pry off the cap first. If you don't have the benefit of air tools, you'll want to loosen the lug nuts then raise and secure the vehicle on jack stands and remove the lug nuts the rest of the way. We have air tools, so we put the vehicle up on jack and jack stands, removed the lug nuts, and removed the wheel and tire.
Next, spray some penetrating oil on this 15mm bolt and then remove it using a 15mm socket and ratchet and a 15mm wrench. Now, remove this clip here. Ours is broken, so we're just going to use some wire cutters to remove the wire tie, but normally you would just pry the clip open with a flat blade screwdriver. Then, just pry this clip open and pull the harness free. You just use a flat blade screwdriver. Push in on the tab and it'll open up. Hit the upper control arm with a hammer to break it free. Hit it up and off the ball joint. Now, you want to secure your wheel knuckle. We're just going to use some wire ties to secure it. You could also use string or wire. You just want to make sure it's not going to move around too much.
Next, you want to remove these two 21mm bolts at the top of the control arm. Start off using a 21mm wrench and another wrench for some extra leverage. Just break both bolts free. Now we'll fast forward as Mike removes those bolts.You won't be able to remove them entirely, but you only need to remove them so that the bolt is not sticking out past the bushing. Sometimes, the bolts may get jammed and not move as far as you need them to. Just use a flat blade screwdriver and a hammer. You want to hit just underneath the upper control arm. The,n you can slide down the front and then remove that bolt the rest of the way by hand. Then angle it and remove the other bolt by hand. If it's jammed in there, you only really need one out. You can angle it and pull it out. Then just use a hammer to remove that other bolt.
As you can see, this upper control arm is in bad shape. You shouldn't have that much play. Now, just pry this clip out using a small flat blade screwdriver. On the right is the old upper control arm.
On the left is the new one from 1AAuto. You can see they are identical and they'll fit exactly the same. Push the back bolt in first and angle it into place. Tip the front of the upper control arm down and put the other bolt in. Then, angle it up into place. Then, just start both of those bolts in by hand until it secures the upper control arm into place. To start off, this bolt at the front, you won't be able to actually get the wrench onto it so just use a pair of pliers to tighten it in a little bit until you can get the wrench on it. We'll just fast forward as Mike tightens both of those 21mm bolts up. You're only really tightening these preliminarily.
Remove whatever you used to secure your wheel knuckle. Using a hammer, knock the upper control arm back down onto the ball joint and replace that 15mm bolt and the nut. Then just tighten it up and torque it to 15 foot-pounds. Push your clip into your new upper control arm. Re-clip the harness into it. Re-clip the harness into the clip on the wheel knuckle. Again, since ours is broken, we're just going to use a wire tie.
Replace your wheel. Replace the lug nuts and tighten them up preliminarily. Lower the vehicle. Tighten them the rest of the way and torque each of them to a hundred foot pounds in a crossing pattern. Have your vehicle back down on the ground with all the weight back on the suspension. Now you tighten up the two bolts that hold the control arm in and you want to tighten them to about roughly a hundred foot- pounds. I'm pulling them as tight as I can with that wrench. Then, the last thing you want to do is you do want to have your alignment checked and fixed after you perform this repair.
We hope this video helps you out. Brought to you by www.1AAuto.com, your source for quality replacement parts and the best service on the Internet. Please feel free to call us toll-free, 888-844-3393. We're the company that's here for you on the Internet and in person.
PSA59254
In Stock
Product Reviews
4.7/ 5
★★★★★
29 reviews
5★
24
4★
2
3★
2
2★
0
1★
1
★★★★★May 7, 2025
Don't buy these junk parts!
Purchased in 2023. I have drove 22347.6 miles. All for ball joints are shot. My vehicle is a suv. I do not drive it off road mudding nor do I abuse my vehicle. I'm 58 and way past all that monkey business. The bushings in my arms are shot, sway bar links are shot front and rear. My trail arms are shot! This is just unacceptable at this point. I wasted a $1000.00 on crap parts!! Don't do the same!! Now I have to spend money on parts that I should not have too! Buying Moog this time. I can't believe I fell for the reviews on this website. I feel like vomiting.
★★★★★April 15, 2025
Exact fit , no problem installing it looks like original parts , I would recomend to try I'm happy with the quality
★★★★★January 11, 2024
Very impressed with shipping and parts communication very good
Fast free shipping
Parts were correct
Came with new hardware
Pre-greased and boot equipped
We definitely order more parts again
★★★★★August 8, 2023
Front end kit review
All parts arrived just as promised right on time. They seem to match with if not succeed oem part quality, however my project isn't entirely finished so time will tell. The only critique I can think of is the clip for the abs sensor doesn't want to stay fixed in the appointed spot in the upper control arm, but there could easily be something I'm missing on that. Thanks 1A auto for the extremely helpful how-to videos and quality service.
Love,
Derek ??
★★★★★May 31, 2023
Great quality parts arrived on time will be using this site again!
★★★★★March 4, 2023
These parts were great. I'm totally glad I have them on my truck. Quality parts from a Quality supplier
★★★★★October 5, 2022
Excellent
Excellent
★★★★★September 18, 2022
Suspension parts - theyre just okay.
Fit like original, but dont seem to be holding up. Have already had to upgrade the sway bar links to Moogs. Good for an immediate fix, but expect to bring doing the same job within a few years.
★★★★★June 20, 2021
Kit was all the major components that I need to get the job done right. Liked ease of use for the site. Nice to have a place to get complete kits takes guess work out of what you might and might not need.
★★★★★April 7, 2021
Steeeing and suspension kit
you guys are awesome!!!!! Your parts are a1 for sure and the prices are even more amazing!!! Careful packaging, great prices, quality parts, and a team that cares about your vehicle!!!! You guys really are A1!!!!! YOU HAVE MADE ME A LIFETIME CUSTOMER!!!! I CANT WAIT TO ORDER MORE STUFF FOR MY VEHICLE!!!!!!!
Showing 1–10 of 29 reviews
Customer Q&A
Got a question about this part? Post it and get answers from our team.
JakeMay 2, 2023
Are necessary bushings included in: 2004 GMC Envoy Front & Rear 14 Piece Steering & Suspension Kit TRQ PSA59254?
Yes, this will come with the bushings needed.
Emma · May 3, 2023
ChrisApril 14, 2020
Everytime I drive over a hole or a ruff piece of road it sounds like bad loud ratteling?
Hey Chris,
You may want to inspect your suspension parts along with your struts.
Thank you,
Corey
Corey · April 14, 2020
ClaySeptember 1, 2019
Does this fit an SS? Seems your menu system doesn't include it
Thank you for the inquiry! These parts are not specific to trim.
Andra · September 2, 2019
JoeyJune 14, 2019
Does this kit come with all the hardware, nuts, and bolts?
it was awesome quality parts!!! Came with everything needed!!!! Great kit for sure
A · April 7, 2021
SeanDecember 7, 2017
Do I have to grease these or are they pre greased?
Pre greased
Luis · December 8, 2017
FrankApril 9, 2017
What brand makes this kit? Do u have a kit with a longer warranty?
We have a few different aftermarket companies build these parts specifically for us, as our 1A Auto house brand. They are manufactured to the same OEM specifications as the original part that came with your vehicle. These parts have a lifetime warranty, and we do not have another kit with a better warranty. If you have any further questions, please don't hesitate to ask.
Tim · April 9, 2017
Showing 1–6 of 6 questions
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WARNING: This product can expose you to chemicals including Chromium (Hexavalent Compounds), which is known to the State of California to cause cancer, and birth defects or other reproductive harm. For more information, go to www.P65Warnings.ca.gov
