2001 Mazda B4000 Truck SE Front Driver & Passenger Side 2 Piece Wheel Bearing & Hub Assembly Set TRQ BHA53325

Hi, I'm Mike from 1AAuto. We've been selling auto parts for over 30 years! We're dedicated to delivering quality auto parts, expert customer service, and fast and free shipping, all backed by our 100% satisfaction guarantee. We've created thousands of videos to help you install our parts with confidence. That saves you time and money, so visit us at 1AAuto.com, your trusted source for quality auto parts.

In this video, we're going to be working with our 2001 Ford Ranger, four-wheel drive. We're going to show you how to remove and replace your front wheel bearing and hub assembly.

If you like this video, please click subscribe. We have a ton more information on this truck, as well as many other makes and models. If you need these parts for your vehicle, you can follow the link down in the description over to 1AAuto.com.

Here are the items you'll need for this repair: trim tools, flat blade screwdriver, wheel lock key, 8-32mm sockets, ratchet, socket extension, breaker bar, bungee cord, pry bar, hammer, chisel, torque wrench, jack and jack stands

Using the taped flat blade screwdriver, locate the relief cuts in the hubcap. Stick the screwdriver in and pry out to release it from the wheel. Before removing your wheel and tire, or jacking up the vehicle, loosen your 32-millimeter axle nut with a socket and breaker bar. This particular truck has a wheel lock on it, so we'll need the wheel lock key in order to remove it. Otherwise, the rest of the nuts come off with a 19 millimeter socket and breaker bar. Simply crack them loose for now. Then raise and support your vehicle and remove the lug nuts the rest of the way. Remove the wheel from the vehicle.

Remove the two 15-millimeter bolts securing the caliper bracket to the spindle. Be sure to crack both of these loose before removing either one fully. Using a bungee cord, mechanics wire, or zip tie, secure the entire caliper bracket and assembly up out of your way. Remove your rotor.

Follow the ABS sensor wire along the frame. Right up here, behind the front bumper, is our connector. Simply push down and disconnect it. A great use for these trim tools, available from 1A Auto, is popping out the connectors. Simply push it underneath the pad, on the bottom of the retainer, and pop them out. At the back of the spindle is an 8 millimeter bolt securing the rest of the harness in place. We'll remove this with a socket and ratchet. Once the bolt is out, our harness is free. Finish removing your 32-millimeter axle nut with a socket and breaker bar. You may need a pry bar to keep the hub from turning while you remove the nut. Tap the end of the axle with a hammer to release it from the splines on the wheel hub. Remove the three 15-millimeter bolts on the backside of the spindle to release the hub. Do this using a 15-millimeter socket and ratchet.

Using a chisel, put a wedge between the hub and the spindle. Once it starts coming out, we'll keep tapping that axle to make sure it's releasing from the spines. Remove the hub and bearing assembly. Make sure that you pull the wiring harness out through the dust shield.

Here we have our old part that we removed from our vehicle and our new part from 1AAuto.com. As you can see, these parts are exactly the same with the same three bolt mounting flange on the back, same internal splines and bearing. We have a brand new ABS sensor on our new part, along with a harness and connector. The same face and center board, along with the same bolt pattern and a nice, new set of studs.

A bad wheel bearing, like these, which have the ABS sensor ring inside of the bearing itself, can cause a poor ABS reading, which can cause a low-speed vibration, an ABS light, or your ABS not to work at all. As well as creating a loud grinding noise, which will get louder and softer as you turn left and right, loading and unloading the bearing. Fortunately, these are easy to change, keep your vehicle rolling smoothly, nice and quiet when it goes down the road, and preventing your tires from getting odd or uneven wear. If your wheel bearing is making noise, or causing an ABS fault, this new part from 1A Auto is going to go in direct fit, just like your original equipment, and fix you up right.

Carefully fish the ABS sensor wire back under the dust shield. Line up the holes, and set it onto the splines of your CB axle, being sure that the sensor tucks under that dust shield. Start all of your 15-millimeter bolts before tightening any of them. Once you've got all of your 15-millimeter bolts started, go ahead and tighten them down with a socket and ratchet. Torque these bolts to 85 foot-pounds.

Reinstall your axle nut. Reinstall the ABS harness. We have the one 8-millimeter bolt connecting the harness at the rear of the spindle here. Tighten that bolt down with an 8-millimeter socket and ratchet. Reattach the harness along the frame. These connectors simply pop back in, and reconnect the electrical connector at the end. Reinstall your rotor. One trick I like to use is taking an old axle nut and placing it over one of the wheel studs, putting a lug nut on hand tight. This keeps the rotor upright while we install our caliper carrier and makes it that much easier. Unhang your caliper from whatever it is you hung it from. Reinstall all of it over the rotor. Reinstall your two 15-millimeter bolts. Tighten down the hardware with a socket and ratchet. Torque the bolts to 85 foot-pounds. Remove the lug nut and axle nut from your rotor.

Reinstall your wheel and tire. Start your lug nuts by hand. Torque the lug nuts to 100 foot-pounds in a cross pattern. Tighten the axle nut socket back on with your 32-millimeter socket and a breaker bar. Once you've got it tight, torque the axle nut to 162 foot-pounds. Reinstall your center cap, and you're good to go.

Thanks for watching. Visit us at 1AAuto.com for quality auto parts, fast and free shipping, and the best customer service in the industry.