2005 Ford Ranger Edge Rear Wheel Drive Front & Rear 4 Piece Shock Absorber Set TRQ SBA60439

Hi, I'm Mike from 1AAuto. We've been selling auto parts for over 30 years! We're dedicated to delivering quality auto parts, expert customer service, and fast and free shipping, all backed by our 100% satisfaction guarantee. We've created thousands of videos to help you install our parts with confidence. That saves you time and money, so visit us at 1AAuto.com, your trusted source for quality auto parts.

In this video we're going to be working with our 2001 Ford Ranger. We're going to show you how to remove and replace your rear shocks.

Now these shocks are specific to the four wheel drive torsion bar style trucks, however the process for replacing them in the two wheel drive or coil sprung style should be very similar, as well as being similar to the same generations of Ford Explorers.

If you like this video, please click subscribe. We have a ton more information on this truck as well as many other makes and models. If you need these parts for your vehicle, you can follow the link down in the description over to 1AAuto.com.

Here are the items you'll need for this repair: 15-18mm sockets, ratchet, socket extension, 15-18mm wrenches

It's not necessary to raise and support your vehicle in order to replace your rear shocks however we've put our truck up on the lift to make it easier to show you what's going on. We're going to show you how to remove the passenger side here where the bolts are on the front of the axle at the bottom, as well as in front of the rear axle up at the top there on the frame. However, the driver's side procedure is exactly the same, although the shock is a mirror image of the one we're working with over here.

Using an 18 millimeter socket and ratchet on the nut and a 15 millimeter wrench on the bolt or vice versa, remove the bottom shock bolt. You may have to work the bolt back and forth a little bit to get it out of that bushing. Using an 18 millimeter socket ratchet and extension, remove the nut on the top of the shock at the frame. Pull the bottom of the shock out of the axle, and you can use it to work the top bushing back and forth off of its stud and to remove the shock from the vehicle.

If you're installing your shock absorber with the weight of the vehicle on the tires, you may try to install it as it comes here with this strap on it. Once the bolts are in, you can cut the ends here. Otherwise, if you're installing them at full length like we are, you'll want to compress the shock and remove the loop, allowing it to extend all the way out, at which point we'll install the top back over its stud.

The bottom may have to be compressed up a little and dropped into its opening. Slide the bolt back through. The bolt goes from diff through to the tire. We'll start our 18 millimeter nut there, and you can tighten these in any order you want to, but our 18 millimeter nut for the top got stuck in the socket here, so we'll install that first. Once it's on there tight, use the extension as leverage to wiggle the socket back and forth until it releases from the hardware. Now we can tighten up our bottom bolt with our 18 millimeter socket and ratchet and our 15 millimeter wrench.

Now shocks like most other suspension items should always be replaced in pairs considering the fact that if this shock has traveled up and down enough to wear out odds are the shock on the opposite side of the same axle has traveled the same amount.

Thanks for watching. Visit us at 1AAuto.com for quality auto parts, fast and free shipping, and the best customer service in the industry.

Hi, I'm Mike from 1AAuto. We've been selling auto parts for over 30 years! We're dedicated to delivering quality auto parts, expert customer service, and fast and free shipping, all backed by our 100% satisfaction guarantee. So visit us at 1AAuto.com, your trusted source for quality auto parts.

In this video we're going to be working with our 2001 Ford Ranger 4.0-liter four wheel drive. We're going to show you how to remove and replace your front shock absorber. We're working on the passenger side, but this process will be exactly the same on the driver side.

If you like this video, please click subscribe. We have a ton more information on this truck, as well as many other makes and models. If you need these parts for your vehicle, you can follow the link down in the description over to 1AAuto.com.

Here are the items you'll need for this repair: flat blade screwdriver, wheel lock key, 10-19mm socket, ratchet, socket extension, 10-19mm wrench, hammer, breaker bar, torque wrench, jack and jack stands

Using a taped flat blade screwdriver, locate the relief cuts in the hubcap. Stick the screwdriver in, and pry out to release it from the wheel. This particular truck has a wheel lock on it, so we'll need the wheel lock key in order to remove it. Otherwise, the rest of the nuts come off with a 19 millimeter socket and breaker bar. Simply crack them loose for now. Then raise and support your vehicle, and remove the lug nuts the rest of the way. Remove the wheel from the vehicle.

With the wheel and tire removed, you can fold up the skirt on the inside of the inner wheel well and see the 14 millimeter nut, as well as down here on the cap of the shock is a 16. Now, that can be pretty tight, so you may need to use a hammer to tap the wrench onto those flats. Just tap the wrench into place. You'll need to pair up a 14 and a slightly larger wrench for some extra leverage. Put the boxed end over the stud, and break the nut loose. Once the nut has been broken loose, if you have a ratcheting wrench, now is a great time to utilize that to finish removing the nut. Otherwise, you can remove it manually with a regular wrench. Once you've removed the nut from the top of the shock, you'll also need to remove the washer and the top bushing. Remove your wrench, and this should be even easier if you're replacing a shock that's already failed. You pull down and compress the shock. Once the stud comes out of the opening, go ahead and place it off to the side.

Place a 10 millimeter wrench over the bolt on the top side of the lower control arm and loosen up the 13 millimeter on the bottom. Remove the bolt from the top, and repeat this process with the opposite bolt. Move the top of the shock. Release the bottom. Slide the shock out of the upper control arm. You may have to compress it a little to help get it out, or you may just want to drop it out of the bottom, whichever is easiest.

Here we have our old shock that we removed from our vehicle and our new part from 1AAuto.com. As you can see, these parts have the same height, diameter, the same bar pin at the bottom where it will bolt on to our lower control arm with a nice new bushing as well as the same cap on the top of the shock to hold while we tighten up the stud here. It comes with a nice new set of top bushings and washers, one for below the bracket, and one for above, as well as a new nut, and a new set of nuts and bolts for the bottom. What your shock absorber does is control the up-and-down travel of your vehicle. Bad shocks will make the ride feel harsh or bouncy because it's not controlling the rate at which the suspension travels as well as the number of times the suspension can travel up and down.

If your vehicle has a poor ride quality, is harsh or bouncing when hitting bumps, a new set of shocks from 1A Auto will go in direct fit just like your original equipment, get your vehicle writing nice and smooth, and fix you up right. Install your washer and bushing onto the stud of the shock. Set it up into the control arm. Through the opening in the shock bracket, place the bottom over its holes, set the top bushing and washer over the stud, and tighten up the nut at the top, a few threads by hand. Install the 10 millimeter bolt for the base of the shock, start the 13 millimeter nut on the bottom. Tighten up the nuts and bolts with a 10 millimeter wrench on the bolt head and a 13 millimeter socket ratchet and extension at the bottom. Once you've tightened one bolt down, go ahead and do the other. Hold the top nut of the shock in place with your 16, and tighten down the top with a 14 millimeter.

Reinstall the wheel and tire and start your lug nuts by hand. That's to 100 foot-pounds in a cross pattern. Reinstall your center cap, and you're good to go.

Thanks for watching. Visit us at 1AAuto.com for quality auto parts, fast and free shipping, and the best customer service in the industry.