1999 Ford E150 Econoline V8 4.6L Ignition Coil TRQ ICA61697

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In this video, we're going to show you how to replace an ignition coil on this Ford ZX2. This has a 4 cylinder motor. This procedure is the same for a lot of fords with this 4 cylinder, two liter, dual overhead cam engine. The only tools you'll need are a 7 millimeter socket with a ratchet and an extension. You'll also need a small flat blade screw driver.

To get to the ignition coil, I'm going to pull the accelerator cable out of the way without bending it. Then I'm going to remove four 7 millimeter screws that are on either side of the coil. We're just using a 7 millimeter socket with a ratchet, and we'll speed up here as we take those screws off. You can see every once in a while we do switch to an extension on the bolt. You can use an extension it just makes it a little bit easier.

There are two ears on the connector that go to the coil. I'm using a pocket screwdriver to just gently pry between the connector and the ears. Pry them away from the connector to slip it off. With that done we can pull out the coil pack. As you can see here, we've got cylinders 1 and 3 on the top and 4 and 2 here. It's even labeled here on this one. If the new one doesn't come labeled either reference this video or take a picture of it. Mark it down the side, whatever way you think you will be able to remember it. The coil wires come off by squeezing the ears and wiggling them off.

To put the coil back in, I want to make sure I get my numbers lined up correctly. Just snap them back on. With that back in, I'm just going to make sure: 1, 3, 4, 2. What that 1, 3, 4, 2"� is referencing is the cylinder number and on this 4-cylinder if you start from left, which is the passenger side as your looking at the engine from the front, starting from left to right, it's number 1, then 2, then 3, then 4. Those are the cylinder numbers. They're numbered sequentially on the motor, but then when you hook them onto the coil you need to put them in the proper sequence so they fire in the right order. The coil can only go in one way. Put my 7 millimeter bolts back in.

It's pretty straight forward. Unbolt it, unplug it. Make sure you plug it back in the same way, as far as the spark plugs go. Obviously plug the power and feed connector back in. Then bolt it back in and tighten it down.

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Brought to you by 1AAuto.com your source for quality replacement parts and the best service on the Internet. In this video we're going to show you how to remove and install a new coil in this 2011 Lincoln Town Car. This has a 4.6L, the same as many of these vehicles. The tool you'll need is a 7 mm socket with a ratchet and extension.

With your 8 mm wrench disconnect your negative battery cable.

Okay, replacing your coil and spark plugs is pretty easy. I'm going to show you on this side; because, it's easier to film and get to. The other side is just as easy. You do just need to remove your intake hose which is three clamps and a couple of hose connections on the back and you remove that whole intake hose and get to your coils pretty easy. Okay, so the coils are held in place by a 7 mm bolt. Get the socket ratchet down on there. It can be a little tough to break loose. I'm just going to get my socket off of here before I get too far. Okay, this connection you just reach underneath and there's a little tab right here. Squeeze that tab and the harness pulls loose. You can just kind of pull your coil up and out like that. This happens to me a lot. I've removed a bolt but it twisted in the socket so it's now stuck. What I do I take a screwdriver or something that fits right up in there. Let's see here, and then I just drop it and basically that usually almost always gets the bolt from the socket. Just make sure you watch where it goes.

Okay original coil. New coil from 1A Auto. You can see pretty much all the same. It has the same connector and everything. Put it right down in. Press it in. Okay your 7 mm bolt. Reconnect your lead, you're all set. Just repeat that for the other seven cylinders. Then reconnect your battery and your engine should be purring like a kitten.

We hope this helps you out. Brought to you by www.1AAuto.com. Your source for quality replacement parts and the best service on the Internet. Please feel free to call us toll free 888-844-3393, we're the company that's with you on the Internet and in person.

Hi, I'm Mike from 1A Auto. We've been selling auto parts for over 30 years. We're dedicated to delivering quality auto parts, expert customer service, fast and free shipping, all backed by our 100% satisfaction guarantee. Visit us at 1AAuto.com, your trusted source for quality auto parts.

Your passenger side ignition coil is right here on the front of the engine, on the passenger side. The best way to do this is to start by holding your new ignition coil in its place and pulling the wires off one at a time, so that you don't get them mixed up. All right, there's one. There's two. There's three, and the last one. Make sure they're fully snapped on. With those on the coil, you can set it aside.

Now you're going to want to remove the plastic electrical connector from the side of it. You can do that with your flat tip screwdriver. If you slide it in the upper and lower tabs, it allows you to pull the connector off, just like that. The ignition coil has four bolts holding it to the engine itself. They're seven millimeters. There's two on the top, and then on the bottom. You can't see them, but they're on the opposite corners. We're going to start with the bottom ones, because they're the most difficult. Use your 7mm socket with an extension. With all four bolts loose, you should be able to hopefully just pop this off from the bracket. Nope, one of them's not quite there. There we go. On the bottom front corner, there's actually another little device hanging off the screw, so you have to pull the screw completely out.

At this point, you can take your new coil, and put the screws into the new coil. Remember the bottom front one is a special one. We'll put it right in place, and then start off by hand tightening all of the screws, because you don't want to cross-thread them. That'll make for a very bad day. Now you can use your 7mm ratchet to get on the bolts. I like to start with the bottom, because I do all the most difficult stuff first. The last part of the process is to snap the connector back onto the coil, just like that.

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Hi, I'm Mike from 1A Auto. We've been selling auto parts for over 30 years. We're dedicated to delivering quality auto parts, expert customer service, fast and free shipping, all backed by our 100% satisfaction guarantee. Visit us at 1AAuto.com, your trusted source for quality auto parts.

We're going to unscrew the clamp that's holding the air filter box in place, and once it's nice and loose like so, you can lift straight up on the air filter box and it will pop right out. You can see on the bottom it has these two posts that it sits in, and they slide right into these rubber grommets in the body itself. You can just set that aside and get it out of your way wherever it happens to fit. Right there looks like a perfect spot.

You don't want to mix up your coil wires, so what we're going to do is we're going to have the new coil just held here in place, and we'll pull the coil wires off one by one and snap them onto the new coil. That way you don't get them mixed up. Once that's done you can set the coil aside and we'll pull the old coil off.

To disconnect this connector you'll want to take a flat tipped screwdriver and kind of pry it in the upper tab and lean it back, and then you can do the same thing to the bottom and you can see it pops off just like that.

With the connector out of the way you'll use your 7 millimeter socket with an extension to reach the four bolts that hold the coil to the engine. With all four screws loose you should be able to pop it off the engine.

Then this one has the extra little device on here that you'll need to undo to get the coil out of the way.

Now you can pull your new coil right into place. Put this bottom screw in first, then you can do the other four as well and start threading them in by hand. With all four screws loosely started by hand, then you can go in with your 7 millimeter ratchet and extension and socket, and tighten them up.

Now we'll connect the connector on the side of the coil. All you have to do for that is push it right in and it will snap right into place.

Now you can take your air filter box and put it right back into place. Slide it in this end first, and then on the bottom you've got these two pins that you can push down into the body. Once it's connected at the body you can use your flat tipped screwdriver to tighten the hose clamp.

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