Replaces
2 Piece Tie Rod Set
$39.95
4 Piece Tie Rod Set
$62.95
4 Piece Tie Rod Set
$74.95
6 Piece Tie Rod Set
$92.95
Steering & Suspension Kit
$114.95
8 Piece Steering & Suspension Kit
$189.95
10 Piece Steering & Suspension Kit
$194.95
12 Piece Steering & Suspension Kit
$205.95
6 Piece Steering & Suspension Kit
$286.95
14 Piece Steering, Suspension, & Drivetrain Kit
$375.95
10 Piece Steering & Suspension Kit
$384.95
12 Piece Steering & Suspension Kit
$399.95
10 Piece Steering & Suspension Kit
$404.95
14 Piece Steering & Suspension Kit
$411.95
14 Piece Steering, Suspension, & Drivetrain Kit
$443.95
Part Details
Install Tip: When replacing steering components, have a professional alignment performed afterwards. This ensures proper tracking and even tire wear.
Our steering and suspension components are pre-greased and sealed for long life and do not require the extra maintenance typically required by greaseable versions.
Item Condition:
New
Attention California Customers:
WARNING: This product can expose you to chemicals including Lead and Lead Compounds, which are known to the State of California to cause cancer, and birth defects or other reproductive harm. For more information, go to www.P65Warnings.ca.gov.
Lifetime Warranty
This item is backed by our limited lifetime warranty. In the event that this item should fail due to manufacturing defects during intended use, we will replace the part free of charge. This warranty covers the cost of the part only.
FREE Shipping is standard on Orders shipped to the lower 48 States (Contiguous United States). Standard shipping charges apply to Hawaii, Alaska and US Territories. Shipping is not available to Canada.
Expedited is available on checkout to the United States, excluding Alaska, Hawaii and US Territories as well as P.O. Boxes and APO/FPO/DPO addresses. Final shipping costs are available at checkout.
Created on:
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Go ahead and remove your center cover here. Now it's gonna expose your lug nuts, remove all 6 of your 21-millimeter lug nuts. Remove your wheel. Now the next thing we're gonna do is break free our jam nut right here. There we are. Remove your outer tie rod end nut. Now let's go ahead and use our hammer, and we're gonna give our knuckle a couple loving bonks to break this free. Now let's use some locking pliers, come right up on this inner tie rod end stud here, and then we'll remove our outer tie rod end. You wanna make sure you count this on the way out. What I mean by that is here we go around one, two, three, and then so on. All right. So, I got 23, results may vary. Let's go ahead and fully remove that jam nut. Now we need to go ahead and get our power steering bellows boot off of here. Typically, you do that by removing the clamp here, and then on the inside, there's gonna be another clamp. Stick a nice pry bar or screwdriver or whatever you've got. Come right up against that clamp edge, give it a couple loving bonks until it breaks free. Recycle that. Grab your boot, give it a nice little twist to break it free from the power steering rack, and then, of course, from here, we wanna pull this down as well. Inspect your boot, make sure it's still in good condition. If it needs to be replaced, well, now's the time to do it.
Now it's gonna be time to remove your inner tie rod end from the rack. You wanna do that by grabbing onto this area right here. If you've got some nice long pliers, this comes in handy. There it is friends. Now, we're just gonna take a nice rag and we're gonna clean out this internal area. We don't want that out of portion. Try to get inside this area, get out any gunk or debris that might be in there for whatever reason. All right friends. Now it's time to install our brand new inner tie rod end. One thing I'd like to mention is it's always a good idea to use a little bit of thread locker. Go ahead and start this on there, we're gonna bottom it out, and then we'll, of course, snug it down. Okay. Just a little tweak after it's bottomed out, should be all it needs. Now the inner tie rod came with some nice grease. You wanna make sure that you use the majority of it right inside the ball area of the joint. So, go ahead and just put a whole bunch in there, kind of smooth it around a little bit and this is gonna help keep moisture out of there and, of course, keep it lubricated. Let's take a little bit of that grease and we're just gonna come right up along this line right there. You can go on both sides of it and I'll show you why in a minute.
So, now we're gonna go ahead and put our bellows boot back on. I like to use a nice wire tie as a clamp because it works just as well as anything else in all honesty. I'm just gonna go ahead and slide this on here, and then as I get to this point on the inner tie rod end, that's going to be approximately where I have that lubricant. So, it's gonna get into that groove, and that's going to help keep moisture out of there, and it's also gonna help the alignment professional down the line. We'll go ahead and slide the boot onto the rack. Once it's completely on, give it a nice spin, and then tighten up your wire tie. Now let's go ahead and put our outer clamp back on there. Typically, people like to use copper never- seize but if you've got a little bit of your grease still leftover, go ahead and put it right on the threads here and that's gonna help keep the moisture out of there. And then, of course, start on your jam nut. We're gonna get that about halfway, and then we'll get to our outer tie rod end.
Okay, friends. Now it's time to install our brand new outer tie rod end. You wanna make sure you put this in the same amount of turns that you removed the old one. Let's go ahead and put this back into the knuckle. Start our nut on there. Let's snag up the jam nut. Let's go ahead and snag the tie rod nut. And now we'll torque it to 44 foot-pounds. Now, we need to pay attention to our castle nut and make sure it lines up with the hole and the stud. If it doesn't, you need to continue tightening until the next hole does. That was good. Let's go ahead and put our little cotter pin in here. And then, of course, pin it over so there's no way this nut can loosen up. Let's go ahead and get our wheel back up on here. Start on the lug nuts, and then we'll torque them to manufacturer's specifications. All right. Now with the wheel just barely touching the ground, we're going to torque these lug nuts to 140 foot-pounds. The little center cover on there torqued.
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Hi, I'm Mike from 1A Auto. We've been selling auto parts for over 30 years.
Hey, everyone. Sue here from 1A Auto, and today I'm going to show you how to do an outer tie rod end on a 2011 Ford F-150. If you need this part or any other part for your car, click on the link below and head on over to 1aauto.com.
Just a little friendly reminder. Any time you do any front end suspension or steering repairs pre-set up an alignment appointment with your local garage, or the one that you wish to do so as soon as you're done doing DIY repairs you can ship it on down and get lined up properly.
To remove the tire you need a 21-millimeter socket, and you're going to break the lug nuts free with the pressure of the vehicle on the tire. Now, I'm going to raise and support the vehicle with a two post lift. You can use a jack and jack stands at home. Now that the vehicle is up I can take the lug nuts off to remove the tire. Be prepared. This thing is heavy. When you have a tire that's stuck on the hub, all the lug nuts are off, and obviously, you can't pull it off, always put a lug nut. Just hand thread it a little bit so when it does break free, it doesn't bounce back at you.
Always loosen the jam nut before you take anything out of the knuckle of the tie rod ends because this nut is really tight so you need the leverage to loosen that. This particular model is a 24-millimeter wrench. As you can see the inner tie rod end is spinning, but that's okay. I just want it even. I want it loose. I'm going to loosen the outer tie rod end mounting nut. It's a 21-millimeter socket. I'm going to back that nut all the way off. Now with a good size hammer, you're going to hit the knuckle right here at the outer tie rod end housing, and you're going to loosen up that jam spindle part of the tie rod end.
The object here now is to take this outer tie rod end off the inner, so we have to hold this inner in place and then twist the outer off. I'm going to use a pair of locking pliers, see if I can get a good grip on this, and I'll use the lower control arm as a leverage point. Let's hope that doesn't spin. I have a pair of very large locking pliers. This is almost a must for any front end repair.
Here we have the new outer tie rod end for our 2011 Ford F-150, comes from 1A Auto. It's the same length as the factory, same curve. There is a left and a right when you're looking up the specifications. It comes with this new castle nut and its own cotter pin. If you need this part or any other part for your car, click on the link below and head on over to 1aauto.com.
Just reverse procedure to install the outer, and we line it up to the knuckle, put on the new castle nut and tighten it down. I'm just going to put the castle nut on here tight to stop that from popping out. The outer tie rod end socket is a 21 millimeter on this castle nut, and the torque is 85 foot-pounds, and let's see if the--wow, I lucked out. The cotter pin lined right up. Always, always don't forget to use a new cotter pin. With our tie rod end assembly, it comes with it. Please don't use the old cotter pin. It's worn out. There we go. Now we can put the lug nuts on. Now we're just going to let them out, all the lug nuts right to the hub, lower the vehicle, and we'll torque these down to manufacturer specs 150 foot-pounds in the star pattern.
Okay, now the vehicle has pressure on the tire. I didn't lower it all the way, enough so that there's pressure on the tire, and I can torque my lug nuts 150 foot-pounds, and one more time for safe measure.
Thanks for watching. Visit us at 1aauto.com for quality auto parts, fast and free shipping, and the best customer service in the industry.
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