2013 Lincoln Navigator Front Ceramic Brake Pads TRQ BFA73352

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Hi, I'm Mike from 1A Auto. I hope this how-to video helps you out, and next time you need parts for your vehicle, think of 1AAuto.com. Thanks.

In this video, we're going to show you how to replace the rear brakes on this 2005 Ford F150. We show you on the passenger's side but the driver's side is the same procedure. The items you'll need for this is a new brake pads and rotor kit from 1AAuto.com, a 10 and 21mm socket and ratchet, a hammer, flat blade screwdriver, large C-clamp, wire brush, torque wrench, brake grease and jack and jack stands.

Pry off the hub cap and then remove these 21mm lug nuts and you just want to loosen them each up while the vehicle's still on the ground. Then you want to jack the vehicle up and support it and then remove the lug nuts the rest of the way. Then your wheel will pull free.

With your wheel off, you can do a quick inspection. You just want to feel with the back of your fingernails the rotor and you're just feeling for any deep grooves. You're going to have slight grooves. You can see the brake pads. Actually you can see them better right through here. There's the brake pad and then the rotor and the brake pad. You can see, actually, the rear brakes on this look fairly new but we're going to replace them anyways just to show you.

We'll remove these two 10mm bolts. A good idea, just to help you get it apart, take a large screwdriver or pry bar and you can just pry against the rotor and just do it slowly and easily. If you get a good enough grip, you can actually push the piston all the way back in, which is what you want to do. Then you want to pull the top up first and then pull that right off. Now the rotor will pull right off.

To remove your shoes, you want to remove the outer one first. Pry it with a screwdriver and just pull the shoe this way a little bit, pry out, and the inner one just pulls right out. These are the surfaces that your brake pads slide on and what can happen is, as these trucks age, this cast iron bracket, caliper bracket . water will get in between the bracket and slide and it will start rusting and that will cause these slides to actually expand a little bit and they'll seize your pads into the one spot and your brakes really won't work. First just clean the slide itself off with a wire brush and then we want to remove the slide. Just pry out these end tabs a little bit and now we want to wire brush the caliper bracket itself, as well.

I'm seeing just a little bit of scale here so I'm just going to take a chisel and if yours is in good shape, you don't have to worry about this but I'm just going to scrape it down some. Then there's two little indents here, the indents on the slide go to the outside, just put it in place. Then we're just going to put some brake grease on the slides. We've repeated the entire process for the slide up above it and then we're just going to apply some brake grease to that as well.

On the right, are the old brake pads and rotor. On the left, are the new ones from 1A Auto. You can see they're identical and they'll fit exactly the same.You want to push the piston back in. I was able to do that with a screwdriver at an earlier step but if you wanted to make sure, you could use a large C-clamp and take the C-clamp and press it back in. You can also just put your old brake pad in there for something for the C-clamp to be able to push on.

I'm putting my old brakes back on because as you saw they're in good shape and when you put the rotor on, make sure it goes on. You want a little bit of contact from the emergency brake shoes. You can see there's a lot of play so we're going to adjust the emergency brake shoes. On this side, we're going to go down and it's exposing more threads so that means it's pushing the emergency brake shoes out. The rotor still has quite a bit of play, so we'll continue to adjust it.

For the inner pad, again I'm using my original ones because they're in good shape. It goes into the caliper and then the outer one pushes in. Here you want to make sure these are nice and free, push them that way so it will go on. You might have to pull them out a little bit and they go right in. We'll just fast forward as Mike replaces those two 10mm bolts and tightens them up. Now torque both of those to 17 foot-pounds.

We'll fast forward as Mike replaces the wheel and then replaces those lug nuts and tightens them preliminarily. Then lower the vehicle and torque each of the lug nuts in a crossing pattern to 120 foot-pounds. Then just replace that hub cap.

After doing any work on the brakes, you just want to pump the brake pad until it firms up and then doing a stopping test from 5 miles per hour, then 10 miles per hour.

We hope this video helps you out. Brought to you by www.1AAuto.com, your source for quality replacement parts and the best service on the Internet. Please feel free to call us toll-free, 888-844-3393. We're the company that's here for you on the Internet and in person.