Replaces
About TRQ:
TRQ is a trusted brand dedicated to making every repair a success story by combining premium parts with easy installation. Each TRQ part is engineered by a team of automotive experts to meet or exceed OEM standards, delivering enhanced performance and maximum longevity. With rigorous in-house testing, the brand ensures superior fit and function across every product line. TRQ also provides customers with best-in-class, step-by-step installation videos—so you can complete repairs with confidence, whether you're a first-time DIYer or an industry professional.
Our control arms are designed to be direct replacements for the original factory parts. They are 100% brand new and require no modifications for installation. No special tools are required because all of the bushings come pre-installed.
Our steering and suspension components are pre-greased and sealed for long life and do not require the extra maintenance typically required by greaseable versions.
Updated Design: While this part may look different from the one originally installed on your vehicle, it is guaranteed to fit and operate as well or better.
Attention California Customers:
WARNING: This product can expose you to chemicals including Lead and Lead Compounds, which are known to the State of California to cause cancer, and birth defects or other reproductive harm. For more information, go to www.P65Warnings.ca.gov.
This part fits 6 vehicles spanning 1997-2004.
| Year | Make | Model | Description |
|---|---|---|---|
| 1997-2002 | Ford | Expedition | Ford Expedition Rear Wheel Drive Front 4 Piece Control Arm with Ball Joint Set TRQ PSA56087 |
| 2004 | Ford | F150 Heritage Truck | Ford F150 Heritage Truck Rear Wheel Drive Front 4 Piece Control Arm with Ball Joint Set TRQ PSA56087 |
| 1997-2003 | Ford | F150 Truck | Ford F150 Truck Rear Wheel Drive Front 4 Piece Control Arm with Ball Joint Set TRQ PSA56087 |
| 1997-1999 | Ford | F250 Truck | Ford F250 Truck Rear Wheel Drive Front 4 Piece Control Arm with Ball Joint Set TRQ PSA56087 |
| 2002 | Lincoln | Blackwood | Lincoln Blackwood Front 4 Piece Control Arm with Ball Joint Set TRQ PSA56087 |
| 1998-2002 | Lincoln | Navigator | Lincoln Navigator Rear Wheel Drive Front 4 Piece Control Arm with Ball Joint Set TRQ PSA56087 |
| Brand Label | Part Number |
|---|---|
| ACDelco | 46D1032A |
| ACDelco | 46D1031A |
| Motorcraft | MCSOE26 |
| Motorcraft | MCSOE24 |
| Motorcraft | MCS10751 |
| Motorcraft | MCS10752 |
| TRW | JTC7006 |
| MOOG Chassis Products | K8728T |
| Precision Driveline | CB40021 |
| Mevotech | MK8728T |
| MOOG Chassis Products | CK8728T |
| NAPA Premium | 2605137 |
| Raybestos Chassis | 502-1031 |
| MOOG Chassis Products | CK8726T |
| Dorman - OE Solutions | 520-217 |
| MOOG Chassis Products | X8726T |
| Centric Parts | 622.65088 |
| Ford | F65Z3084AB |
| SYD | K8728 |
| Crumex | K8728 |
| MOOG Chassis Products | K8694 |
| Ford | F65Z3085AB |
| MAS Industries | CB8726PR |
| NAPA Premium | 2605138 |
| MAS Industries | CB8728PR |
| Mevotech | CMK8726T |
| Mcquay-Norris | FA4064E |
| MOOG Chassis Products | RK8728 |
| Centric Parts | 623.65061 |
| Crumex | K8726 |
| Mcquay-Norris | FA4065E |
| Ford | XL3Z3085AA |
| Mevotech | CMK8728T |
| Ingalls Engineering | CAK8728T |
| MOOG Chassis Products | K8695T |
| Mcquay-Norris | FA4064 |
| NAPA Premium | 2605138M |
| MAS Industries | CB8728 |
| Centric Parts | 623.65088 |
| MOOG Chassis Products | RK8726 |
| MasterPro | 4CB40241 |
| Mevotech | GK8728T |
| Mevotech | MK8726T |
| Precision Driveline | CB40022 |
| TRW | JTC7007 |
| NAPA Premium | 2605137M |
| Mevotech | GK8726T |
| MOOG Chassis Products | K8726T |
| MasterPro | 4CB40242 |
| Precision Driveline | 4CB40022 |
| Ford | 5l3z3084b |
| MAS Industries | CB8726 |
| Ingalls Engineering | CAK8726T |
| Dorman - OE Solutions | 520-218 |
| MOOG Chassis Products | K80771 |
| MOOG Chassis Products | X8728T |
| Ford | XL3Z3084AA |
| Mcquay-Norris | FA4065 |
| Ford | 5L3Z3085B |
| Raybestos Chassis | 502-1032 |
| Precision Driveline | 4CB40021 |
| SYD | K8726 |
| DIY Solutions | SUS00100 |
| DIY Solutions | SUS05045 |
| DIY Solutions | SUS05046 |
| MOOG Chassis Products | K8771T |
| MOOG Chassis Products | CK622997 |
| Motorcraft | MCF2233 |
| Mevotech | MK8695T |
| Carquest | CA039B |
| Carquest | CA038B |
| Dorman - Premium | CB8726PR |
| Dorman - Premium | CB8728PR |
| Hollander | 511-01022BR |
| Hollander | 511-01022BL |
| Mevotech Supreme | GK8728T |
| Mevotech Supreme | MK8726T |
| Mevotech Supreme | GK8726T |
| Mevotech Supreme | CMK8728T |
| Mevotech Supreme | MK8695T |
| Mevotech Supreme | CMK8726T |
| Mevotech Supreme | MK8728T |
This item may be interchangeable with parts from other brands with the above part numbers. This information is provided only for reference and does not guarantee that the item you are purchasing is identical to parts with part numbers from the brands listed above. To confirm that this item fits your vehicle, use the above "Check Vehicle Fit" option.
Lifetime Warranty
This item is backed by our limited lifetime warranty. In the event that this item should fail due to manufacturing defects during intended use, we will replace the part free of charge. This warranty covers the cost of the part only.
FREE Shipping is standard on orders shipped to the lower 48 States (Contiguous United States). Standard shipping charges apply to Hawaii and Alaska.
Shipping is not available to a P.O. Box, APO/FPO/DPO addresses, US Territories, or Canada for this item.
Expedited is available on checkout to the United States, excluding Alaska, Hawaii.
Final shipping costs are available at checkout.
Created on:
Tools used
Brought to you by 1AAuto.com, your source for quality replacement parts and the best service on the internet. In this video, we're going to show you how to remove and replace the upper control arm on this 1997 Expedition. At 1A Auto, we sell a nice replacement upper control arm. This takes care of if you have worn out bushings as well as a worn out upper balljoint. Replacing the whole assembly will take care of both those issues. We're doing this on this Expedition, but it's also the same for a lot of different Ford and Lincoln SUVs and pickup trucks.
Tools you'll need are 19 and 21 mm sockets and that could vary depending on what vehicle you're working on, a ratchet, breaker bar, and a pipe for leverage. Some of those bolts can be a little stubborn so having some extra leverage is always good, pliers, penetrating oil, a marker, a balljoint removal tool, a hammer, as well as jack and jackstands.
We're going to start out by removing your wheel. If you don't have impact tools, start with your wheel on the ground. Loosen the lug nuts then raise and support the vehicle, then take the lug nuts off and the wheel off. Once you have the tire off, you're going to want to roll a jack underneath the lower control arm and lift up and support the suspension. Now there's basically three bolts. You've got the balljoint bolt here that you're going to remove. You have to take the cotter pin out first. Then you have two bolts up here that hold it to the frame, and one there and then obviously one right here. The bolts and washers that hold the control arm to the frame are actually what you use to align and set caster and camber. What I'm going to do is I'm going to use a marker and just make a vertical line on them so I have a good reference point to put them back together which gives you a pretty decent preliminary alignment. You will want to have your alignment checked and possibly adjusted after this repair.
What I'm going to do, I'm going to take a black marker and we'll make a line just straight up and that would I know that, that one's in there like that and then same thing over here. Make a line straight up so I know how they came out. Here, I'm using a pair of pliers and just grab in the ends of the cotter pin that have been pushed through and bent and you basically just break them off, that's usually the easiest way then you can pull it out from the other side. There's the cotter pin. I am going to get my screwdriver in here and pry that right out. I'm going to spray that with penetrating oil, also spray my other ones up top here.
Now, I'm going to take a 21mm socket and put it on that bolt. Now, I'm using a hammer just to make sure it's all in there all the way. You're going to want at least a breaker bar and get it on here. Have to reposition my socket here so that I can make sure. I'm actually going to put an extra piece of pipe on my breaker bar. It gives me even more leverage. Get it loose. Now, I could switch to the ratchet and remove it all the way. I'm just going to keep the bolt on there a little bit. I'm going to turn my attention towards these bolts here. Same thing, get our socket on there.
Breaker bar, they seemed to be coming off all right. I loosen up that one a couple of turns then turn my attention towards the rear one. Use a hammer to try and get the socket on there. The bolt or the nut is a little crusty, so I just get it that on there and then it comes part as well. Once we get that bolt or the nut to the end there like that, our hammer, make sure we can get that bolt out. Here we're just making sure that we can get the bolts loose. You don't want to take them out yet, but you do just want to make sure, give him a couple of taps and turn them with a wrench and make sure they're free.
I was pleasantly surprised even though this truck is pretty crusty and rusty, they did come free pretty easily. Now, you're going to want to remove the nut from the upper balljoint and then use a balljoint puller tool to separate the arm, the control arm and the steering knuckle. You can see here I removed that plastic around the upper balljoint then put my balljoint separator tool on and get it in position. I'm going to use this, the 19 mm and you basically just tighten it up until it pops. You see your steering knuckle comes out of the way. Now, I just remove the nuts and washers from the ends of those bolts that hold the frame.
Pull the bolts out. I just kind of put everything right on the frame next to it so I keep the same hardware with the same sides. Take my old control arm out. Use a wire brush and or a screwdriver, just clean off some of the scale on the inside of the frame there then put your new control arm up in place and you just want to start the bolts in. For right now, pay attention to where the marks are that you made on the washers on the bolt heads. Just work them right into place. All right, I've got the bolts in. I'm going to now just put this down and in.
Just start my bolt on. Now, I'm just going to kind of preliminarily tighten these up. I'm going to put my breaker bar on here. I'm just kind of pulling that so that my mark up there is straight up and down the way I marked it. All right, washer on the back, start my bolt on. Once I get the nut on there, I'll use my ratchet and socket and just tighten up that nut snug, you don't want to have it tight, just want to start getting seated and then repeat the same thing for the other frame bolt. I'm going to torque this balljoint nut to 67 foot pounds. Now, insert our new cotter pin and pliers to bend it, pull it through and bend it.
I'm just going to put little grease fitting on with an 8mm wrench or a pair of pliers, and then make sure we grease that upper balljoint. Basically just to install grease there's a small slot on the boot where the grease will start coming up once it's full. Now, we're going to raise the vehicle so that all the weight is on the suspension. I know the space between here, all my weight is on my suspension. I'm going to need my breaker bar. I'm looking at the mark I made to make sure it's still straight up and down. Put that on there to hold that and now I'm going to torque these nuts to 100 foot pounds.
We'll speed things up here as we repeat that for the other bolt and nut assembly. You can put your tire back on and start each lug nut one by one, make sure you don't cross-thread them and tighten them down preliminarily. Torque the lug nuts to 100 foot pounds using a star pattern. Then put your center cap back on and you should be all set. We hope this helps you out.
Brought to you by www.1AAuto.com, your source for quality replacement parts and the best service on the internet. Please feel free to call us toll free, 888-844-3393. We're the company that's here for you on the internet and in person.
Tools used
Brought to you by 1AAuto.com. Your source for quality replacement parts and the best service on the Internet. Thanks for tuning in, this is Part Two of a two part series. We're going to go through reinstalling your lower ball joint on this '97 Expedition. This procedure is similar for a whole bunch of different Ford trucks and SUVs. Here's a list of tools that we used on this Expedition. If you have a different vehicle some of the sizes may differ and one thing that is not on here, you will want a grease gun to grease up the ball joint after you install it.
We've got our control arm here. We're just going to put it right on there like that. Our ball joint, our collar and then that's going to go up and in. We put our press on there. I'm going to speed it up here so we use the press to push the ball joint up and in and you do this in two steps. This first step is just going to get the top of the ball joint flush with the top of the control arm. We're going to take this boot off. Now with this ramp here on top of it. I'll fast forward here again as we use that press to push the ball joint the rest of the way up into the control arm until it's nice and tight, the bottom is nice and tight against the bottom of the control arm and then put your protective boot back on. Now you want to lock it in place with a snap ring. You can get this on without snap ring pliers, but they certainly are a help. Just get this set up.
What I'm going to do is I'm just going to thread the nut on a little bit and then use a hammer to kind of knock the ball joint outward, that helps make it easier to get the other and just keep that protective boot up on there. That's just going to allow your knuckle down on there, your knuckle up, take your jack out of the way. Lift it up on the knuckle and bolt. Okay, I'm going to speed through putting the half shaft back in. One thing I did forget to do, I do a little bit later, is now is the best time to put the grease fitting on top of the ball joint, before you put that axel in there, but put the axel in place to get it into the hub and then get it lined up on the axel and start a couple of those 13 mm bolts. Once you get all the bolts in you want to torque them to 60 foot pounds and what I do is I use a black marker.
I mark the head of them after I torque them. Then you want to kind of go to the opposite side, torque the next bolt, mark it and just keep going until they're all torqued. I'm just putting the tie rod back on. Just put the nut on there and keep it in place. Now we want to tighten the ball joint nut to 98 foot pounds and that's for this '97 Expedition. It could be different for your vehicle. Okay, I put our cotter pin through, bend it down and around. I'm going to fast forward through putting the grease fitting on top. Like I said earlier a little bit easier to do this step before you put the axel in. Then continue to fast forward as a put a grease gun onto that fitting and fill the lower ball joint with grease. Okay, I'm going to tighten my tie rod nut to 60 foot pounds. Next the cotter pin through, bend it down. Here I'm going to install this sway bar link. I've already put a new link on the other side, then just started the nut on it. Bushing, the bushings always go towards the metal.
Okay, so I've got a bushing on the bottom going up to the mount control arm and a bushing above that. Then my shaft goes on there and then the washer, then the bushing pushing down and in. Make sure the bushing is centered in the stabilizer bar unit. Now bushing and washer, then my nut. Now you'll want to use your jack to put some pressure on the suspension and then tighten up the stabilizer to 15 to 17 foot pounds. Then we'll put on our center hub nut. We're just going to tighten that preliminarily. We're not going to torque it until the wheel's back on. Now you can let your suspension back down and you want to re-tighten your torsion bar and since we marked it we can tighten it right back up to where it was before. You can put your tire back on and start each lug nut one by one. Make sure you don't cross thread them. Tighten them down preliminarily. Torque the lug nuts to a hundred foot pounds using a star pattern. Okay, now using a 35 mm socket torque your lug nut to 220 foot pounds. Put the retainer back on and then the cotter pin, then your wheel cap. We recommend you have your alignment checked and adjusted if necessary.
We hope this helps you out. Brought to you by www.1AAuto.com, your source for quality replacement parts and the best service on the Internet. Please feel free to call us toll free 888-844-3393. We're the company that's with you on the Internet and in person.
Fit good. Plastic tabs that were original equipment to hold brake hose could not be reused because bar was thicker and didnt have the bump on top to secure the tab.. replaced plastic tab with hoes clamp.
I buy from this company when we need any car parts, have never had a bad experience. and free delivery
Great price. Parts arrived before estimated time. Packaged well, no damages. Exact fit for my truck. No problems with installation.
The shipping was not only free but fast. Parts came exactly as described, no surprises. Love to shop here online. We have recommended to our family and friends.
My truck rides like it's new it was a very easy installation and thank you for getting it to me so quick I will definitely use you guys in the future seems to me these parts are pretty good I definitely had no problem installing them thank you very much
Everything came in before it was supposed to. Its just what i ordered and saved me alot of money. Cant complain. Fit perfect
PSA56087
These are manufactured by TRQ. TRQ is a high quality, high-end name brand that we offer and back with our 1A Auto Limited Lifetime Warranty.
Yes
The ball joints will be sealed units, and will not include the grease fittings.
No
