Ford Explorer Front 12 Piece Steering, Suspension, & Drivetrain Kit TRQ PSA70037

Hi, I'm Mike the 1A Auto, we've been selling auto parts for over 30 years. What's up guys, I'm Andy from 1A Auto. Today I'm going to show you how to install this hub on this 2011 Ford Explorer. If you need these parts or other parts for your vehicle, click the link in the description and head over to 1AAuto.com.

We're gonna loosen the lug nuts up. I'm just gonna use a 19mm socket and a breaker bar. I'm just gonna crack them free. Now we're going to raise and support the vehicle. We're using a to post lift, you're doing this at your house you can use a jack and jack stands.

We're gonna remove the lug nuts. Once those lug nuts are off, take the tire off.

Okay, next we're gonna take these two bolts out. We're gonna use a 17mm wrench, loosen these bolts up, they're on there a little bit tight. You could use a socket and a ratchet.

Next I'm gonna take a straight blade screwdriver, I'm just gonna pry this out a little bit, compress the caliper just a little bit, and then pull the caliper out. And then we're going to use a bungee cord, tie it up up top, wrap around the spring and do this so that the that we don't just let the caliper hang, and that could damage the hose.

And at this point we can take these brake pads out. There is these little springs, oops, these springs will come up with the brake pads. It's a good idea to change these, but if they're in good shape you can reuse them. Take the inside brake pad out, just use a screwdriver to help guide it out.

I'm gonna take an 18mm socket and a breaker bar, and I'm gonna take these two bolts out that hold the caliper bracket on. These are on there pretty tight.

Once I break those free then I can use an 18mm socket and a ratchet and loosen these up all the way. What take me, also there is some thread locker on these bolts. You can either add some thread locker or get some new bolts.

Take this bracket out. Now it can remove the rotor. Just pull it straight out. If it was stuck on there you can take a hammer and just hammer on on the rotor and get it off if it's rusted on there.

All right, we're gonna have to loosen up this axle nut. So what I'm gonna do is I'm gonna take a pry bar, I'm gonna stick it right here. I'm gonna take a 1 and 1/4 socket and a breaker bar. Now be careful when you're doing this. We had to lower this down to the ground. We're gonna loosen up on this. Once it's broken free you're good to go. We can raise the vehicle up again.

We're gonna take the socket and I'll just take this nut off by hand. Use my ratchet, take it off. The rust blew away. Pull this axle nut off.

Alright, just to be careful so I don't break the ABS sensor I am gonna take it out. I'm gonna use an 8mm socket and extension and a ratchet. Take this bolt out here, take that 8mm bolt out. Then I can take it, wiggle the sensor back and forth, try to get it out. Use some needle nose pliers, help take the sensor out. Here we go, just pull that out of the way. That's just so it doesn't crack when I'm pulling the hub out.

I'm gonna use a 18mm socket and I extension, this is actually a wobble extension that kind of helps out a little bit. And I'm gonna take these bolts out on the backside. Oh, they're in there pretty tight. Take this bolt out, and then we have three more bolts. There's a bolt here, bolt there, and then both there. So we're gonna take all those bolts out.

With the bolt loosened I can't pull it out completely, but it's okay that I'm not taking it out. I'm just gonna loosen them up to this point, and then I'll be able to pull the hub off and put the new hub on, and these bolts will just screw into the new hub.

All right, so I got all four of these bolts loose in the back holding the hub on. So next I just put the nut back on the axle, and then I can use a hammer, tap on the axle just to loosen that, and I'll take the nut off. The only reason I put the nut on was to protect the threads, I didn't want to mar them up from using the hammer.

Then with all this loose, let's take my sledgehammer and just hit it from the backside, pushing it outwards. This is frozen on there pretty good, but I did break it free a little bit. There is a little bit of an air gap between the hub and the knuckle, but I'm gonna take some rust penetrant and just fill it up and let it soak for a little while, because there's a lot of corrosion between the aluminum and the steel of the hub. So we'll do that, let it sit for a little bit.

It's coming apart a little bit. It's gonna take a lot of effort to get this off. There's many methods to try to get this off. You could try a slide hammer, but this slide hammer is probably going to separate it, so I'm just gonna get a bigger hammer and hit it from this side. A little bit a little bit of a gap over here, I'm just gonna take a pry bar, tap it in behind here and tap it over here. Top the axle back in, and there it is. Took a little bit of effort, but we got it out.

This is our old hub and bearing. This is our new hub and bearing from 1AAuto.com, it's made by TRQ. As you can see, the studs are the same, the machined surfaces are the same, the mounting bolt holes are in the same position, it's got the ABS reluctor wheel, is the same. Get yours at 1AAuto.com and you'll be ready to rock and roll.

So this is the area that the hub was sticking in, right in the hole here, so I'm going to take a wire brush to try to clean up some of this corrosion. Just gonna use a little bit of brake parts cleaner, clean this off. Let's use a rag, wipe it down. Just gonna take a little bit of copper anti-seize, just go all around the knuckle, just a little bit, like coating, this way it doesn't seize in there again in case we ever have to take it out again.

No I'll take the hub, and now the smaller bolt holes go on the top and the wider ones go on the bottom. Make sure you slide it in the right way. Just slide it over the CV axle, just rock it in.

And it's what's going in there, good, a lot easier than how it came out. Now I'll line the bolts up the holes, might have to twist it a little bit, get those all started. It'll take our 18mm socket, tensions, and a ratchet. Just snug these up, all four of them.

Next we're gonna torque these with a torque wrench to a hundred and twenty two foot-pounds. I'm gonna start with this one right here in the upper upper left corner, and then after that you're going to do this in the sequence. We'll go from there, we're going to cross over to this bottom one, and then the next top one, and then last this bottom one.

Next we can install this wheel speed sensor. Just slide that down there into position, install our eight millimeter bolt. We're gonna tighten this down with our 8mm socket and our extension and a ratchet, just snug.

Next we're gonna install the nut. It's recommended that you replace this nut when you're doing this job. I'm gonna put my pry bar right there, just use my socket, one-and-a-quarter socket and a ratchet, tighten the nut down.

We're gonna tighten this nut down, we're gonna use a 1 and 1/4 socket in the torque wrench. We're gonna torque this down to 258 foot-pounds. It's a lot of torque, so be careful. Make sure the pry bar is in there good, there we go.

Reinstall this brake rotor, backwards first. I'm gonna spray this down with brake clean, brake parts cleaner, and we'll wipe it down with a rag. There is a protective coating on these rotors so that they don't rust.

Flip it back over, you're gonna want to line up this hole with that screw hole there. Our vehicle didn't have a screw in, but yours may. Won't spray this down the brake parts cleaner and wipe it down on the rag.

Next we're going to take a lug nut, because I don't have that screw there, I'm just gonna screw this lug nut down so that'll hold my rotor on there better.

Now install this brake caliper bracket, these bolts. It's recommended that you replace these bolts, we're gonna reuse ours. Now with those two bolts tightened up, we're gonna torque these to a hundred and eleven foot-pounds. Use my eighteen millimeter socket and a torque wrench, those are good and tight.

Next we'll install the brake pads. We're just gonna take a little bit of caliper grease, put it on where the pads will sit in the bracket.

And careful, you don't want to get any grease on the pad material itself. Slide it into the bracket, do the same with the inside one, and we're gonna take the brake caliper off the bungee, or the bungee off the brake caliper. Flip it over.

I'm gonna take one of the old brake pads, slide it in here, and I'm gonna use this brake caliper compressing tool. It's made for one piston caliper, this is obviously a two piston caliper, but with the brake pad there I can go back and forth slowly, you just compress both pistons. We actually sell these tools at 1AAuto.com, so we're just gonna compress this slowly. As we're compressing this, fluid's coming out of the caliper, going through the hose, through the pipes, up to the master cylinder and into the reservoir, and it's a good idea to check the fluid level after you're done to make sure that it's at the proper level and adjust when needed.

So we'll just go back and forth, just compress it a little bit. That's fully compressed. Pull that brake pad away. Make sure these dust boots didn't get folded or anything, if you go slowing up generally they go down properly and they look good.

Now we'll take the counter, another thing you want to make sure, you never want to let the caliper hang from the hose because it could damage the hose. Slide the caliper over the bracket and the brake pads, slide that into position. All this caliper bolt and the top countable, I'll take a 17mm socket and a ratchet, snug these down. Then I can torque these with a torque wrench, 253 foot-pounds.

Next we're gonna install these pad springs. It's recommended that you replace these when you do this job. You can put these on before you put the caliper on, but sometimes they spread the pads out and get a hold the pads, so I decided to do it after, which might be a little bit tricky to do it after, so whatever you guys want to do. If you're gonna do it before, then push that there, there's some little holes in the caliper pad themselves, this basically just pushes the pads out when the caliper is released, and do the same for the top one.

Reinstall the tire, put the lug nuts on and lower the vehicle. Now we're gonna torque these lug nuts to a hundred foot-pounds. We're gonna use a torque wrench and we're gonna torque them in a star pattern. Reason you do it in a star pattern is so that the wheel gets tightened down properly against the rotor and evenly. And go around again, just a double check, make sure you got them all good to go.

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