Ford Blower Motor Resistor TRQ HCA40092

Brought to you by 1AAuto.com, your source for quality replacement parts and the best service on the internet. In this video, I'm going to show you how to replace the AC and heater fan speed resistor on this 2003 F-250, same as any '99 to '07 F-250 and F-350. In a perfect world the only tool you'll need is the is the 8 millimeter socket with a ratchet and a small extension but most of these go bad because the contacts corrode so you'll need some needle nose pliers as well as a flat blade screwdriver to force the resistor and the harness plug apart. Then some penetrating oil and grease to condition the contacts before you put it back together.

With they key on, turn on the ... Now if you listen you can hear the blower motor and as I turn it up you don't really hear any difference in the sound of the motor. Then when I go to high ... okay, so I'm basically missing my 2 middle speeds and this is not the switch, it's usually the resistor. Blower motor resistor is right here on the passenger side. This is it right here and it's held in by 2 8 millimeter screws, one up there and then there's one down below that you can't really see. For the bottom one, I've got an 8 millimeter socket. If you have a small extension like that it'll help but you can just do it with a socket and ratchet. Okay, I'm just going to hit fast-forward here so you don't have to sit there and watch my hands working a ratchet.

Now once the bolt's not giving the ratchet much resistance then you can just reach in there and take it out the rest of the way with your hand. Again, fast-forward for that top bolt. Use the ratchet and then once it doesn't give resistance, use your hand. You might ask why didn't I unplug it first, because generally these things are so corroded together that they don't just unplug in the conventional manner. What I usually do is take a pair of needle nose pliers ... You don't want to break the harness part of the connection but ... I just start breaking the resistor side. I'm going to fast-forward here as I go at the plastic part of the resistor side. Again, do not break the part of the plug that the wires go into. You want to just break off the plastic that is part of the resistor. You can look at your new resistor to see which part that is. Now I'll trade in for a screwdriver and now I'm just trying to pry away the remains of the resistor from the connection.

Once you get it pretty much to that point ... This doesn't want to come apart ... Now you've gotten the resistor part off ... now the plastic part ... Put your screwdriver in there, pry up ... I generally like to take a little penetrating oil and clean up the contacts a little bit. New resistor from 1A Auto, only the color is a little different. Put it back in place. Start our upper bolt a little bit by hand first. If I reach in here with my left hand underneath, I can feel the hole and start our lower bolt as well. Make sure it's in there well. Now I'll just use my 8 millimeter socket with my ratchet and extension and tighten up those 2 screws. When you tighten them up, you want to tighten them firm but don't over-tighten them because you could strip the plastic housing. Okay, that's installed. Now we can take our lead and plug it back in.

At this point you're going to want to run a test, see if you have all your speeds back. I found on this truck that I actually ... it changed and that was because the contacts still weren't making good contact so I actually unplugged it again, sprayed some more penetrating oil in there, then re-plugged it in and just moved the connection around a little bit and that restored my fan speeds. Also, putting a little bit of bearing grease or something more permanent on there, that helps make a better connection with the prongs clips. Now you can hear speed 1, 2 ...

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