Replaces
Frequently bought together
Part Details
About TRQ:
TRQ is a trusted brand dedicated to making every repair a success story by combining premium parts with easy installation. Each TRQ part is engineered by a team of automotive experts to meet or exceed OEM standards, delivering enhanced performance and maximum longevity. With rigorous in-house testing, the brand ensures superior fit and function across every product line. TRQ also provides customers with best-in-class, step-by-step installation videos—so you can complete repairs with confidence, whether you're a first-time DIYer or an industry professional.
Product Features
TRQ brake pads are manufactured using premium raw materials and design standards to restore original performance. TRQ brake pads are positive molded and utilize a multi-layer shim for enhanced performance and service life. TRQ’s combination of materials and design ensures a low dust and low noise braking experience. TRQ recommends replacing your brake rotors when you replace your brake pads to ensure even wear of components and improved braking comfort. All products are fit and road-tested in our Massachusetts R&D facility to ensure we deliver on our promise of Trusted Reliable Quality.
Attention California Customers:
WARNING: This product can expose you to chemicals including Lead and Lead Compounds, which are known to the State of California to cause cancer, and birth defects or other reproductive harm. For more information, go to www.P65Warnings.ca.gov.
Lifetime Warranty
This item is backed by our limited lifetime warranty. In the event that this item should fail due to manufacturing defects during intended use, we will replace the part free of charge. This warranty covers the cost of the part only.
FREE Shipping is standard on orders shipped to the lower 48 States (Contiguous United States). Standard shipping charges apply to Hawaii and Alaska.
Shipping is not available to a P.O. Box, APO/FPO/DPO addresses, US Territories, or Canada for this item.
Expedited is available on checkout to the United States, excluding Alaska, Hawaii.
Final shipping costs are available at checkout.
Created on:
Tools used
Brought to you by 1AAuto.com, your source for quality replacement parts and the best service on the internet. Hi, I'm Mike Green. I'm one of the owners of 1A Auto. I want to help you save time and money repairing and maintaining your vehicle. I'm going to use my 20-plus years' experience restoring and repairing cars and trucks like this to show you the correct way to install parts from 1AAuto.com. The right parts installed correctly, that's going to save you time and money. Thank you and enjoy the video.
In this video we're going to show you how to remove and reinstall the front brakes on this 2004 Dodge Intrepid. This car does not have ABS brakes, so things are a little bit different, but if you have ABS brakes this procedure in this video should be able to get you through it. The tools you'll need are a jack and jack stands; 19mm socket and ratchet or your lug wrench; 10mm socket and ratchet; a large screwdriver, or a small pry bar, or if you can't get a hold of one of those, a large C-clamp; and you'll need a torque wrench to put it back together. If you're just working with hand tools you want to loosen your lug nuts while the wheel's on the ground first, then raise up and support your vehicle. I have the benefit of air tools, so I'm going to use it. We'll fast forward through the rest of removing the wheel here, and we'll use fast forward in this video quite a bit when I'm doing monotonous tasks. Now you want to turn your wheel so you can reach your brakes easily, either by pulling it like this or using the steering wheel.
If you want to check your brakes, you can see, look in here, and you see as I kind of turn the rotor, you can see where the rotor is, and this little hole that you see here is actually the wear indicator. You can see this inside pad has plenty of life left. You can see here, this pad here has plenty of life left as well. We're not even going to change these brakes but I want to show you how to take them apart and put them back together anyways. This piston is pushed out. As your brakes wear, the piston pushes out more. You can actually reset it by sticking a large screwdriver, or a small pry bar like this, in and just prying on the brakes. That does two things for you. It pushes that piston down in there, and it also helps to get your caliper up and off easily. To remove your caliper you're going to remove two 10mm bolts, one there, and one down there. It's easily done with a small ratchet or wrench. Now your caliper comes up and off. Stop the action here for a second. You saw something drop out there. Those are the little slides and you'll see how to reinstall them later in the video. Obviously if you drop anything out you want to keep hold of it. It has the brake pads in it. The inner on, we'll just pull out like so. You probably want to have a screwdriver just to help you pry it right up and out. Hang the caliper up there like that just for now, and really easy, the rotor comes right off if you wanted to replace it or have it turned. This one, even though it's a little rusty looking, just looks like it's from sitting, it's still in good shape.
Even though we're going to put the original brakes back on, just want to show you new parts from 1A Auto. They're going to fit right on there correctly, just like the originals. Real quickly we're back to the original rotor. What I like to do is just put a lug nut on here, just to hold the disc in place while you're putting the brakes together. Before you go to put your calipers back on, you want to make sure that your piston is reset all the way into your caliper. Hopefully, if you pried it out, that's already the case, but if you didn't have something to pry it with, you can use a large C-clamp. Put your old pad back in there, and then use the C-clamp to push that piston back into your caliper. Here's my original pads, new pads from 1A Auto, the original pads still have some good life on them, so we're going to reinstall them, but you can see that the pads from 1A Auto, all the same, all the same brackets and everything. They're going to mount in there correctly. Just want to show you that so you know that when you order from 1A Auto you're going to get the right stuff. The rear pad has that clip on it. Just press it into the caliper, and then the front pad has this kind of butterfly clip on it. You just take it, and kind of pull that clip out a little bit, and then snap it down in there. You've got your pads back into your caliper, and these are the little slides. They actually just kind of hang off of here, so you put the lower one on, and you take your caliper, and make sure that ... I don't know what this is. Make sure that these boots are back on these bolts or these sleeves here.
Then what you want to do is put your pad against it, and push out on your caliper, and seat your- the shoes- or the pads- have little teeth that go right on to that slide. Then you do have to pull it out and put it down on. Then this upper slide, basically you can push your pad up like that, pull your rotor and pad back a little bit, slide underneath, and it goes in just like that. Close up on what that should look like, and then down here what it should look like. Now you take your bolts, put them in the back side, just kind of push on the caliper a little bit. Get them started, get that one started, 10mm. Torque wrench, we're going to use, and we're going to tighten these up to 25 foot-pounds. Now we can remove this lug not. We'll fast forward as I remove that lug nut, and then I'm obviously going to put the wheel and tire back up in place, and what I'm going to use is my ... I'm going to thread the lug nuts on by hand and then use my air ratchet to tighten them preliminarily. Now with the wheel on the ground, and you hawk eyes will notice that the cap was off and now that little center cap is on, that's just because I was shooting two videos at once here, but I'm going to torque the lug nuts to between 90 and 100 foot-pounds. I'm going to use a star pattern, and very important while I'm torqueing these, before you drive your vehicle, make sure you pump the brakes a bunch of times. Then make sure that the brakes hold the car while it's in gear, then do a stop from 5 miles an hour, and then a stop from 10 miles an hour, just to make sure your brakes are working, obviously, before you drive it out on the road. We hope this helps you out.
Brought to you by www.1AAuto.com, your source for quality replacement parts and the best service on the internet. Please feel free to call us toll free, 888-844-3393. We're the company that's here for you on the internet and in person.
Tools used
Brought to you by 1AAuto.com, your source for quality auto replacement parts and the bets service on the internet. Hi, I'm Mike Green. I'm one of the owners of 1A Auto. I want to help you save time and money repairing and maintaining your vehicle. I'm going to use my 20 plus years experience restoring and repairing cars and trucks like this to show you the correct way to install parts from 1AAuto.com. The right parts installed correctly, that's going to save you time and money. Thank you and enjoy the video.
In this video, we're going to show you how to do a break job on a 2004 Dodge Stratus, the front disk brakes. It ends up, this vehicle has the breaks are in fine shape. We just take them apart, put them back together to show you how to do it. The tools you'll need are jack and jack stands, 18 and 19 millimeter sockets. Also, you can use your lug wrench to get the lugs off on the wheel. You'll need a breaker bar or ratchet with a pipe for extra leverage. A T45 Torx bit, large screwdriver and a large C-clamp. This vehicle has hub caps; some of them will have aluminum wheels. Just a screwdriver, pull that cap off. These lug nuts are 19 millimeters. If you don't have air tools, you'll want to leave the wheel on the ground, loosen the lug nuts first then raise it and secure the vehicle then remove the lug nuts. We'll speed it up here as we remove the lug nuts and then remove the wheel and tire. You can inspect your brakes. Two things you'll want to inspect. The pads as you can see here. You can see that slot right there. That's a wear indicator.
These pads are fairly new on this vehicle. We're just going to show you how to take them off, put them back on and then your rotors, you'll want to check for the width of them as well as how they look. A little bit of rust scale on here, not a big deal. You'll also want to check the back of you panel winding up the disk and you want to feel for any large groves. You're going to feel a lot of small groves like a vinyl record but you shouldn't feel any large groves. If you do, you'll want to replace the rotors. Again, it looks like on this vehicle, your rotor, disk brakes were done pretty recently. Now, to remove the calipers from the bracket, there are two bolts. There's a little dust cap back here. You can see in here there's an Allen bolt. I actually use a T45 Torx bit. It goes right in there. I can get a ratchet on there. I'll speed up as I remove up as I remove those two Allen bolts. You take a good sized screwdriver and put it in and depending on how worn your breaks are, this would be in different place but use a screwdriver and just kind of pry in here and pry out on the caliper and it just kind of helps to loosen things up.
Basically what you're doing is you're pushing this piston back into the caliper. Pull your caliper up and off. You can see the outer pads stayed right there. The inner pad is clipped into my caliper. There's the clip right there. Now, I secured my caliper up here with some wire ties. I'm going to show you, if you wanted to remove and replace your rotor, the next you're going to do is take off this caliper bracket. To do that, you remove two large bolts, this one here and one here. To remove these bolts, you're going to want an 18 millimeter socket and I have a breaker bar here. If you find you can't do it with that, a piece of pipe gives you even more leverage, slow and controlled. If all you have is a ratchet, I recommend using the pipe. It's really no problem getting them off, the breaker bar as well. Remove these. After loosening them up with your breaker bar or ratchet with pipe, I just switch over to my ratchet and I'm removing the bolts the rest of the way. Once those two bolts are out, this bracket comes off. Simply enough, the rotor comes off.
If you want to replace it with a new rotor from 1A Auto, it's going to fit on there exactly as it is. You can also have your rotor's machine. This rotor is in fine shape so I'm going to put it back on. It gives you kind of falls off a little bit. I'll put a lug nut on. Just tighten it up in place. Take your bracket, put it up on the rotor. It bolts in from the back side. Fast forward as I just preliminarily tighten them by hand and then with my ratchet and socket. Here's a torque wrench, 18 millimeter socket and torque it to 95 foot pounds. I'm going to bring my caliper down here again. Put it here like this. Now if your brakes are worn, this piston, watch it come out of your caliper or it will work its way out some, when you use the big screwdriver, you are working the piston back in there. If you didn't get it all the way then, what you'll want to do is use a big C-clamp, put on your caliper. Use a clamp to tighten that. It pushes the piston back in with the caliper. You can remove the clamp. Make sure that your inner pad is all in. These bolts, you want to make sure that they are pushed out. Put our outer pad back on here.
With your outer pad in place and your inner pad in place, make sure, start pushing this on. This retainer should go in there, pull it out and down, push your top in and down. You just kind of push on the caliper a little bit, start the bolts in clockwise. Put some pressure on there and they'll go in. I'll use a torque wrench to tighten these between 15 to 17 foot pounds. Replace the dust caps over those bolts. Fast forward here as I straighten the wheel. Then remove that one lug nut that I put on. Install the wheel and tire again, thread the lug nuts on first by hand then preliminarily tighten them with my impact wrench and then I'll put the vehicle down on the ground and torque them. You'll want to torque these lug nuts to 100 foot pounds. Speed it up again here. Torque them up again to 100 foot pounds and kind of draw a star pattern as you're torqueing them and then reinstall your hub cap. Make sure the brakes are working before your drive it. Pump them up. Do a stop from 5 miles an hour and 10 miles an hour before you take them out on the road.
We hope this helps you out. Brought to you by www.1AAuto.com, your source for quality auto replacement parts and the bets service on the internet. Please feel free to call us toll-free, 888-844-3393. We're the company that serve you on the internet and in person.
BFA73279
