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Hi, I'm Mike from 1A Auto. I hope this how-to video helps you out, and next time you need parts for your vehicle, think of 1AAuto.com. Thanks.
In this video we're going to show you how to replace the sway bar end links on this 2008 Dodge Ram. Typically, you want to replace them in pairs. These are the tools that you're going to need: rust penetrant, 15mm, 16mm, 17mm, 18mm sockets, ratchet, socket extension, locking pliers, torque wrench, jack and jack stands
Raise and support your vehicle. You can do it with jack stands, but in this case we have a lift so we're going to use the lift. In the front end of the truck you can see that your sway bar end link is right here. We're going to start by shooting the threads with some rust penetrant so that it makes our whole job a whole lot easier.
To remove the sway bar end link, you're actually going to have to rotate the sway bar up. To do that, you have to disconnect the opposite side sway bar end link. If you're going to just be replacing one of the sway bar end links, then you just need to disconnect the bottom of the other side, but if you're going to be replacing both like us, and we recommend replacing both at the same time, you're going to want to lubricate the top and the bottom with the penetrating oil.
You'll see that the sway bar end link has a 15mm hex on the bottom side of it so that you can hold it with a wrench. Then on the top you're going to need a 17mm deep socket and ratchet. The bottom end of the sway bar end link has an 18mm spot for a wrench on it. You can wedge it in between the wheel. The bottom side is an 18mm 6-point. Now you can take the nut right off the bottom. We're going to be replacing both of the sway bar end links, but if you're just doing one, you need to disconnect the opposite side, the bottom of it. The 18mm wrench that we were hoping to use didn't fit in this scenario, so we went right to the locking pliers.
With an 18mm socket on the bottom, you should be able to loosen it right up. Then you can pop the nut right off the bottom. Now we need to raise up the sway bar so that we can pull the sway bar end links out. Unfortunately, we just put brand new bushings in here, so the sway bar is really tight, and it's tough to push up. We're going to start by loosening up the sway bar bushing brackets. You don't have to take all the bolts out. We just need to loosen them up so that the sway bar will move a little freer.
Now we're going to push the sway bar up on this side so that we can come over here and remove the sway bar end link from the sway bar. We're going to be replacing both of the sway bar end links, so the next thing that we do is rotate the sway bar like this. You haven't easier access to this upper nut on the sway bar end link. You can put a 15mm here, 17mm socket on the top, and loosen it up.
This right here is a 1ASSL00405. This is also an aftermarket piece; it's actually been replaced before on the truck. You can see that they're obviously very similar. Ours has the new bushings and washers, and nuts, along with the grease fitting included. The only difference between these two that I can come up with is these points right here, where you put the wrench on to remove them. It's just 18mm versus 19mm. It's going to fit just like the original one does and hopefully solve your problem.
Get your 1A Auto sway bar end link, and take the nut and the washer and the rubber bumper off the top, leaving one rubber bumper and the washer on there. Slide it through your sway bar. Then put the nut on, but leave it really use so that we can actually slide it down into the control arm later. We're going to repeat this step on the opposite side. We're now going to spin the sway bar up, and set the sway bar end links down through the control arms. Then we'll loosely install the nuts on the bottom of the sway bar end links.
We're going to start by tightening up the top of the sway bar end link with a 15mm wrench right in here and a 16mm socket and ratchet on the top. Just snug it up. Then we'll move to the bottom. We'll take a 19mm wrench, slide it right over here, and an 18mm socket and ratchet for the bottom. Once it's tight, you'll want to repeat these steps on the opposite side.
Next, we're going to tighten up all of the sway bar bushings bolts that we had loosened earlier in the job. These we should set to 45 foot-pounds. With the sway bar bushings torqued and the sway bar end links replaced, now you can lower the truck back down to the ground and you'll be all set for the road ahead.
Thanks for tuning in. We hope this video helped you out. Next time you need parts for your car, please visit 1AAuto.com. Also check out our other helpful how-to and diagnosis videos.
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Brought to you by 1AAuto.com, your source for quality replacement parts and the best service on the Internet.
Hi, I'm Mike from 1A Auto. I hope this how-to video helps you out, and next time you need parts for your vehicle, think of 1AAuto.com. Thanks.
In this video, we're going to show you how to replace the front sway bar bushings in the 2008 Dodge Ram 1500. Here are the items you'll need for this repair.
To replace the front sway bar bushings, you're going to undo these two brackets. Each one has two 15mm bolts. We're going to use the 15mm deep socket. You could also use a short socket and extension and a ratchet. The reason we're doing this job on the ground is because jacking it up and allowing the suspension to hang will put load on the sway bar, making it more difficult to line up these brackets and bolt them into place. Remove the bracket and repeat these steps on the opposite side. To remove the bushing from the bar, find where the bushings split from the factory. Our bushings here have either been glued together for some reason or just corroded, built up with gunk and stuck together over all the years they've been on this truck. We're going to use a razor blade to open up the factory slot that was in them. Remove them from the sway bar.
Here we have our old sway bar bushings that we removed from the vehicle and our new sway bar bushings from 1A Auto. You probably can't tell, but this is what these used to look like. See that they're all worn out. They’ve got some rust scaling in here. The rubber is corroding and falling apart. We've actually rubbed a hole completely through over here. It's not going to sit on our sway bar right and it's going to allow it to move up and down inside of this bore, which is going to create some noises and handling issues. This new sway bar bushing from 1A Auto, you could see is nice and round with nice thick rubber. It's going to fit our sway bar nice and tight and insulate it from any noise or vibration that we may have, especially from this. While this particular one is blue, they do come in a variety of colors just based on the manufacturing and what color rubber they decide to use. It's going to go on direct fit just like your original equipment and fix you up right.
We'll split the bushing and install it over our sway bar. This gap may not close fully. That's fine. The new bushings are much firmer than the old ones, obviously because the rubber is much thicker. It hasn't been worn away and deteriorated by chemicals and road grime. Line them up and reinstall the bracket onto the bushing. Start your two 15mm bolts. Do the same thing over here. Don't be afraid to tap that bracket on a little bit. Once both brackets are one and all four bolts have been started, go ahead and tighten them down with your 15mm socket and ratchet. Torque these bolts to 45 foot-pounds.
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Hi, I’m Mike from 1A Auto. We’ve been selling auto parts for over 30 years!
What's up, guys? I'm Andy from 1A Auto. Here I'm going to be replacing the front sway bar links in this 2016 Ram 1500. If you need this part or other parts for your vehicle click the link in the description and head over to 1aauto.com. You don't have to remove the tire to get to this sway bar link but we did for the sake of the video. It is a little bit easier to access it, but it's not necessary. I'm going to take a 18 millimeter socket and a breaker bar. It will loosen up this nut on the bottom.
And the stud is starting to spin, I am going to use a little bit of rust penetrant. Spray the top as well. So up to the bottom nut, I'm going to use an 18 millimeter wrench, and I'll use an 18 millimeter socket and ratchet. I'm going to hold the stud with the ratchet and the socket, loosen up the nut with the wrench. That's loose enough to do by hand. Take that off. With the top, I'm going to use a 16 millimeter socket and a ratchet, and I can use a 15 millimeter wrench and I'm going to keep the link from spinning, right there. Take the nut off.
At this point we're going to need to do the same procedure on the other side. The other side also removed and I can take a prybar, can just bend the sway bar up, pull this link out, just like that. Here's the old link, here's the new link from 1aauto.com. The shape is the same, it's got the same length, comes with new nuts, comes with bushings. The lower stud has a little area where you can put a wrench so that you can keep it from spinning. Get yours at 1aauto.com and you'd be ready to rock and roll.
Right. Now we're going to separate the nut and pull the bushing off. Get this started up here. Get the nuts started. And down below, get this started. And you're going to want to do the same with the other side. It's a good idea to do these in pairs. I'll take a pry-bar, fix this down, get this nut started.
Now, with the other side the sway bar link in the same position as this, I will take a 18 millimeter wrench and 18 millimeter socket and a ratchet, I'll tighten up the nut on the bottom. Now, I'm going to use the torque wrench and I'm going to torque this to 75 foot pounds, pull the wrench out, take a 15 millimeter wrench and I'm going to put it right there in a 16 millimeter socket and a ratchet and we'll tighten this up.
Once that starts to get tight, we'll get a torque wrench. I'm going to torque this to 16 foot-pounds. It's good. Now I'll do the same to the other side. If you took the wheel off, put the wheel on at this time.
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