Replaces
Replaces Dodge Chrysler Mitsubishi Eagle Front Upper & Lower 6 Piece Control Arm with Ball Joint Set TRQ PSA62278
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Replaces Dodge Chrysler Mitsubishi Eagle Front Lower 4 Piece Control Arm with Ball Joint Set TRQ PSA62280
$174.95
Replaces Dodge Chrysler Mitsubishi Eagle Front 8 Piece Steering & Suspension Kit TRQ PSA59213
$137.95
Replaces Dodge Chrysler Mitsubishi Eagle Front Driver Side Control Arm with Ball Joint TRQ PSA83872
$69.95
Replaces Dodge Chrysler Mitsubishi Eagle Front Passenger Side Control Arm with Ball Joint TRQ PSA83873
$69.95
Replaces Dodge Chrysler Mitsubishi Eagle Front Driver Side Control Arm with Ball Joint TRQ PSA83942
$49.95
Replaces Dodge Chrysler Mitsubishi Eagle Front Passenger Side Control Arm with Ball Joint TRQ PSA83943
$49.95
Replaces Sway Bar Link TRQ PSA67914
$29.95
Replaces Front Outer Tie Rod TRQ PSA68376
$25.95
Replaces Dodge Chrysler Mitsubishi Eagle Front Inner Tie Rod TRQ PSA68652
$24.95
Replaces Steering Rack & Pinion Bellow EMPI 88-1513-K
$21.45
Replaces Dodge Chrysler Mitsubishi Eagle Front Upper Ball Joint TRQ PSA66293
$17.95
Part Details
Install Tip: When replacing steering components, have a professional alignment performed afterwards. This ensures proper tracking and even tire wear.
Complete Repair in One Purchase - Stop searching for parts individually and complete your repair with a customized kit or set from DIY Solutions.
High-Quality Parts from Trusted Brands - DIY Solutions' kits and sets are selected from the best automotive brands and include hard-to-find and even obsolete parts you may need for your vehicle.
Guaranteed Fit - DIY Solutions ensures its selected parts are quality-tested to guarantee fit and function.
Item Condition:
New
Attention California Customers:
WARNING: This product can expose you to chemicals including Lead and Lead Compounds, which are known to the State of California to cause cancer, and birth defects or other reproductive harm. For more information, go to www.P65Warnings.ca.gov.
Lifetime Warranty
This item is backed by our limited lifetime warranty. In the event that this item should fail due to manufacturing defects during intended use, we will replace the part free of charge. This warranty covers the cost of the part only.
FREE Shipping is standard on orders shipped to the lower 48 States (Contiguous United States). Standard shipping charges apply to Hawaii and Alaska.
Shipping is not available to a P.O. Box, APO/FPO/DPO addresses, US Territories, or Canada for this item.
Expedited is available on checkout to the United States, excluding Alaska, Hawaii.
Final shipping costs are available at checkout.
Created on:
Tools used
Brought to you by 1AAuto.com, your source for quality replacement parts and the best service on the Internet.
Hi, I'm Don from 1A Auto. I hope this how-to video helps you out, and next time you need parts for your vehicle, think of 1AAuto.com. Thanks.
In this video, we show you how to replace the inner tie rod on this 2004 Chrysler Sebring. It's the same process on the Sebrings from 1996-2005. Your vehicle will need an alignment after this repair is done. The only tools you'll need for this are an adjustable wrench, pliers, a hammer, a tape measure, monkey wrench, and jack and jack stands.
Start by removing the wheel and tire. If you don't have the benefit of air tools, loosen the lug nuts with the vehicle on the ground. Raise and support the vehicle and then remove the lug nuts the rest of the way, as well as the wheel and tire.
Turn your wheel so that you have better access to the tie rods, and then just remove this cotter pin. Use a pair of pliers to just straighten it out, and then pull it right out of there. Using your adjustable wrench, just remove this castle nut. It's important to measure from your inner tie rod to the outer tie rod so that you can remember exactly how far up the outer tie rod's supposed to be. Loosen the nut in between the inner and outer tie rod. With a hammer, just hammer the knuckle right here to loosen up your outer tie rod, and now you should just be able to pull it up and out, and twist that off of the inner tie rod.
Now, you can twist off this nut as well. With a pair of pliers, just push in this clamp and pull it down. You can see this boot's held on with a wire tie, and we're just clipping a wire tie. In most cases this won't be what you have so we're going to show a different repair here just to show you what you will have. There's a clip underneath and you just stick a screwdriver in there, hit it with a hammer, and that clamp will just pull right off. Using a pipe wrench, remove the inner tie rod. You can see, you just loosen it up and then it twists right out.
Now, take your new inner tie rod and twist it into place. Now, take a wire tie and put it on the end of the boot, and just feed that boot back into place and tighten up that wire tie. It's going to act as that clamp you removed earlier. Using your pliers you can slide that other clamp back onto the front of the boot, and twist that nut on.
Now, take your outer tie rod and twist it back onto the inner tie rod. Now, using the tape measure, make sure it's back to exactly where it was. You can see ours is. Then you want to just tighten that nut back into place and push the outer tie rod back into the knuckle. Now, you can replace your castle nut. When you tighten up the castle nut, make sure that you have this hole lined up so you can put that cotter pin back into place. Then use a pair of pliers, just pry out the ends of it. Using your adjustable wrench tighten that nut up just the rest of the way, and using your grease gun, just fill up that grease filler on your outer tie rod.
I'm going to fast forward here as Don replaces the wheel. You want to replace the lug nuts, tighten them preliminarily, lower the vehicle, tighten them the rest of the way, and then torque them to 100 foot-pounds.
We hope this video helps you out. Brought to you by www.1AAuto.com, your source for quality replacement parts and the best service on the Internet. Please feel free to call us toll-free, 888-844-3393. We're the company that's here for you on the Internet and in person.
Tools used
Brought to you by 1AAuto.com, your source for quality replacement parts and the best service on the Internet.
Hi, I'm Mike from 1A Auto. I hope this how-to video helps you out, and next time you need parts for your vehicle, think of 1AAuto.com. Thanks.
In this video, we're going to show you how to replace the front wheel bearing and hub assembly in this 2006 Cadillac CTS.
Here are the items you'll need for this repair: 15mm, 19mm socket, ratchet, socket extension, breaker bar, torque wrench, 14mm wrench, rust penetrant, jack and jack stands
Using your 19mm socket and breaker bar, crack the lug nuts loose. Just about a turn is fine, you just want to make sure that there's no tension on them when you jack it up, and obviously you can't remove it with the weight of the vehicle on the tire. Once your lug nuts are loose, you can jack up the vehicle and secure it with jack stands.
You'll see on the rocker panel there's a small arrow, this indicates where the jack point is on the pinch weld under the vehicle, so we'll place our jack under there, bring the vehicle up until the wheel is off the ground, and we have enough height to get a jack stand underneath the car.
Directly in front of your jack, you'll notice this boxed frame-like piece of the unibody. That's the point we're going to use for our jack stand. Slowly lower the vehicle onto the stand. Once the vehicle has been raised and supported, we finish removing the lug nuts. Remove the wheel from the hub.
We're going to use a lift to make this easier to show you guys at home, but you should be able to do this in the driveway with a jack and jack stands. After raising and supporting your vehicle and removing the wheel, locate the nut for the sway bar link. There's one on the top here, and one on the opposite side down bottom. Remove those with a 15mm deep socket extension and a ratchet. You may want to soak these in penetrating oil, and you may need a small pair of vice grips if they spin, like you can see ours are here. Get a pair of vice grips onto the backside of the sway bar link, and clamp them onto the joint to keep it from spinning while you remove the nut. Remove the link from the sway bar, and repeat these steps on the bottom.
This one's tough to get a pair of vice grips on, so we'll pop off that harness retainer, pull down, pop our link off of the ball socket, clamp the vice grips onto the newly exposed ball socket to keep it from spinning while we remove the nut and remove it from the vehicle. Here we have ours that we removed from our vehicle and our new part from 1AAuto.com. What happens with these sway bar links a lot of the time is you can see the factory one. This ball socket just sits into this little plastic bushing here. We actually had to pop ours out in order to remove it. That can develop some play and allow these to click up and down when you hit bumps. It can sound like a serious suspension issue when in reality it's a small part and an easy fix.
Here we have our new part, and you can see they're the same length, same orientation here, and it comes with a new nut. The nice thing about these is that we'll be able to grab with a normal wrench, keep that from spinning, make it a lot easier to remove and install. So if you have a clicking noise when going over bumps and you've determined that it's your sway bar links, this new part from 1AAuto.com is going to go in, direct-fit just like your original equipment and fix you up right.
Reinstall your sway bar link into the slots. Make sure you line up the bottom hole as well and reconnect the harness retainer onto the sway bar link. We'll reinstall the nut on both ends of the sway bar link, and since our new sway bar links have that nice hex we showed you there on the backside of the joint, we use a 14mm stubby wrench to hold that in place while we tighten down the new nut with a 15mm socket ratchet and extension. Repeat these steps on the top side of the sway bar link. Torque the new nuts to 37 foot-pounds.
This is the part that we always recommend you replace in pairs, so repeat these steps on the opposite side. Reinstall the wheel onto the hub. We're going to bring them down as tight as we can while the tire is still in the air, and we'll finish tightening them once the vehicle's been taken off the jack stands. Always be sure to tighten your lug nuts in a cross pattern.
We'll jack our vehicle off the stands, with the weight of the vehicle back on the tire. If you don't have a torque wrench, get them as tight as you can by hand with a breaker bar. It takes a lot of force to break one of these lug studs, so you don't need to go crazy tight, but don't be afraid to put a little bit of your weight into them to make sure they're tight. Of course, if you do have a torque wrench available to you, you'll want to torque your lug nuts to 100 foot-pounds. You can see with the breaker bar we actually got it pretty close.
Thanks for tuning in. We hope this video helped you out. Next time you need parts for your car, please visit 1AAuto.com. Also check out our other helpful how-to and diagnosis videos.
