Replaces
Ceramic Brake Pad & Rotor Kit
$127.95
4 Piece Brake Rotor Set
$168.95
Ceramic Brake Pad & Rotor Kit with Wheel Bearings
$192.95
Ceramic Brake Pad & Rotor Kit with Wheel Bearings
$197.95
Ceramic Brake Pad & Rotor Kit
$204.95
Semi-Metallic Brake Pad & Rotor Kit
$210.95
Semi-Metallic Performance Brake Pad & Rotor Kit
$241.95
Semi-Metallic Performance Brake Pad & Rotor Kit with Calipers
$249.95
Semi-Metallic Brake Pad & Rotor Kit with Calipers
$256.95
Ceramic Brake Pad & Rotor Kit with Calipers
$270.95
Part Details
Specifications
Product Features
TRQ brake kits are designed to restore your brake system to like-new performance. TRQ brake pads are positive molded, thermal scorched, chamfered, and utilize a multi-layer shim for enhanced performance and service life. TRQ rotors have a non-directional finish that reduces the break-in period for new rotors as well as reducing vibrations throughout the rotor’s lifecycle. All products are fit and road-tested in our Massachusetts R&D facility to ensure we deliver on our promise of Trusted Reliable Quality.
Rotors do not include wheel bearings or seals.
Attention California Customers:
WARNING: This product can expose you to chemicals including Lead and Lead Compounds, which are known to the State of California to cause cancer, and birth defects or other reproductive harm. For more information, go to www.P65Warnings.ca.gov.
Lifetime Warranty
This item is backed by our limited lifetime warranty. In the event that this item should fail due to manufacturing defects during intended use, we will replace the part free of charge. This warranty covers the cost of the part only.
FREE Shipping is standard on orders shipped to the lower 48 States (Contiguous United States). Standard shipping charges apply to Hawaii and Alaska.
Shipping is not available to a P.O. Box, APO/FPO/DPO addresses, US Territories, or Canada for this item.
Expedited is available on checkout to the United States, excluding Alaska, Hawaii.
Final shipping costs are available at checkout.
Created on:
Tools used
Brought to you by www.1AAuto.com-- your source for quality replacement parts and the best service on the internet.
Hi, I'm Mike Green. I'm one of the owners of 1A Auto. I want to help you save time and money repairing and maintaining your vehicle. I'm going to use my twenty plus years' experience restoring and repairing cars and trucks like this to show you the correct way to install parts from 1AAuto.com. The right part installed correctly, that's going to save you time and money. Thank you and enjoy the video.
In this video we're going to show you a front brake job on this 2003 Chrysler Voyager same as many of the Chrysler and Dodge minivans from this era Chrysler Town and Country, Voyager, as well as Dodge Caravan. Tools you'll need are jack and jack stands, 19mm and 21mm sockets with a ratchet or your lug wrench would work for the 19mm socket, and you'll need a breaker bar or pipe for some extra leverage on a couple of the bolts; they can be tight, 5/16 large Allen wrench or T45 Torx bit with a handle, a large screwdriver or pry bar, and a large c-clamp.
If you don't have air tools, you'll want to loosen the lug nuts on the ground first, then raise and secure the vehicle, then remove the lug nuts the rest of the way. We'll speed it up here as I take off the lug nuts, hub cap, and then remove the wheel. Once you have the tire off, turn your steering so that you have easy access to the back of the caliper and we can check for condition of the brakes when I turn the rotor. You can see this is the rotor, this is the metal part of my pad and there is very little left on my brake pad there so it definitely needs new pads and then these rotors are pretty well worn, they're probably the original rotors. I can tell that by using the back of my finger nail and there are pretty some grooves in the rotor, so I'm going to replace the rotors as well.
So my next step is to remove these two bolts here. The correct tool for this is 5/16 Allen bit or T45 Torx bit, which is what I'm using. It allows me to get in there and get a handle on it so I can get good leverage. I'm just going to speed up as I remove those two bolts the rest of the way. Before you pull your caliper off right here is your piston, as you can see as your pads wear the piston works its way out and you can reset it in a couple ways. You can use a clamp, which I'll show you later or you can use a large screwdriver or pry bar. As you see I'm just prying out and that piston is working its way back inside the caliper. You can see the piston is back inside the caliper now. In order to get the caliper off push it out forward and pry it out on these little tabs. That kind of comes apart, and off. Just going to rest the caliper right up here, like that. Now I need to get this bracket off.
Get a bolt set holder 21mm, I'm going to put my ratchet on here and then I'm going to slide a piece of pipe on here that allows me more leverage, then slowly pull down and that one up, again slowly push down. Then the rotor comes off. The rotor from 1A Auto goes right on. What I like to do is I like to stick a lug nut on here to kind of hold everything in place. Then the bracket goes back on. Now using a torque wrench I'm going to tighten these up to 120 foot-pounds. Now you want to make sure that your piston is all the way back in your caliper. You can use a big c-clamp like this, all I'm doing is just pushing, making sure that piston is pushed all the way back into the caliper. Your pads from 1A Auto, put this one in and push it right into the caliper like that. This one we can put right here against the disc. Slide the caliper right down and on, push that right on like that. Caliper mounting bolts, push them in the backside. With my Torx bit basically kind of pull on them, pull the plates, they don't have to be extremely tight. I've got 20-25 foot pounds.
Take the lug nut off, you'll want to slide on the tire. These ones with the wheel covers, note where your valve stem is, put two lug nuts kind of counter opposite of it. Then your valve stems here, put that on. This wheel cover is broken; it's supposed to snap over those two lug nuts. Speed it up as we just put the lug nuts on, snug them up with the impact wrench and we'll torque them when the vehicle is on the ground. Now torque them to 100 foot-pounds using a star pattern. Very important after you do brake work, pump your brakes a bunch of times to make sure the pedal is nice and firm, then do a stop from 5 miles per hour and 10 miles per hour before you do the road test.
We hope this helps you out. Brought to you by www.1AAuto.com -- Your source for quality replacement parts and the best service on the internet. Please feel free to call us toll free 888-844-3393. We're the company that's with you on the internet and in person.
Tools used
Brought to you by 1AAuto.com, your source for quality replacement parts and the best service on the internet. Hi, I'm Mike from 1A Auto. I hope this how to video helps you out. Next time you need parts for your vehicle, think of 1AAuto.com. In this video, we're going to show you how to service the front breaks on this 2005 Town and Country, same as most '04 to '08s and this is a vehicle that has the rear disk brakes. The front breaks are a little different from vehicle.
Tools you'll need are jack and jack stands, 19mm socket and ratchet or your tire iron, penetrating oil, hammer, the bigger the better, T45 Torx or an 8mm Allen driver, flat blade screwdriver, a 21mm socket with a breaker bar or a pipe for some leverage, a large C-clamp and a torque wrench. If you don't have the benefits of air tools, you'll want to start your vehicle on the ground, loosen the lug nuts then raise and support your vehicle then take the lug nuts, wheel and tire off. I do have a lift and impact wrench so I will use them.
If you find it's tough to get your wheel off, what you can do is put a couple of lug nuts back on and then basically just hit the top or bottom of it and that usually breaks it free. The lug nuts just help to hold it in place when it breaks free. Okay, we can check the condition of our break. Okay, you can see the rotors. You take the back of your fingernail, this surface should be smooth. On this vehicle, these are pretty deeply grooved so this rotor at the very least needs to be turned and by the look of the condition of it, we're going to replace it and if you're replacing the rotor, you're going to replace your brake pads anyways and we can look in here and you can see that that break pad, here's the metal of the pad, the metal of the rotor and then between there is the pad and you can see it's pretty thin so this is in need of some new brakes in the front here.
Straighten the steering wheel or turn the wheel just so you can get to the back of the cover. There's our brake calipers here, there are two bolts, one there and one down there and there's actually a T45 or proper sized Allen. TheT45 Torx bit this style I can use a 3/8 ratchet to turn it. Okay, I'll just fast forward here as I use that Torx bit and my ratchet and remove those two bolts. Okay, that's a big square. This is a caliper piston. Let's fit and work its way out. What you're going to do is take a big screw driver and pry on the caliper. Just pry slowly and you can probably see that the piston is kind of working its way back in. Now there's a bracket that holds the caliper, you pry that off with a flat blade screwdriver. Now your caliper comes off and you can just pull the inner break shoe right out. Then put your caliper, I kind of hung it on the strut. Okay, we'll put the caliper up and if we're going to do any other work secure it with some wire tires and then you can take your outer pad off just by pulling it right out. Next, I'll want to remove this bracket. Okay, there are two 21mm bolts here and here. You'll need a 21mm socket and I suggest a breaker bar and if you don't have a breaker bar, you can use your ratchet, okay and hook a piece of pipe on to it .That gives us some extra leverage. Apply pressure nice and easy and the bolt will start to go.
Speed up here as I loosen that one up and I'll do the same thing for the lower bolt. Then I remove the pipe and just use the ratchet and take them out the rest of the way and then take that bracket right off. Your vehicle may still have these little locks on it. Pull those right off with a pair of pliers. I'm going to coat this with penetrating oil, hopefully it will let me get the disk off easier. Okay, I'll just fast forward through this a little bit. You'll see I put a couple of lug nuts onto the disk and then the bigger the hammer the better. Ours is pretty rusted on there so I just give it some strategic hits and eventually it comes off.
Here's a new one from 1A Auto. Take your bracket. The bracket goes between the steering knuckle back here and the rotter. Okay, poor shooting here but I'm just putting that bracket in place, holding it in place, starting the bolts on and then tightening it up preliminarily. I'll also put a lug nut on to the stud just to hold things in place, make it a little easier to work. You'll want to tighten these with 120 foot pounds. Just use a pair of wire cutters, something to clip your wire tires or whatever you have holding the caliper up top.
Okay, now you'll want to actually put your old pad back in and use the large C-clamp and force the piston back in. I'm going to tighten up the C-clamp right over there. I'm going to tighten up the C-clamp. You'll see the piston go back in the rest of the way. All right. Take it off and take the old pad out. Okay, new pad, it comes with the clips to put it right in. This one just goes right into the piston. Put the other one into your caliper bracket. Then put your caliper down on. Okay, once your disk is on there, kind of put the one side of this bracket in and then push the other side in and push the bracket down and on.
Then come around the back, push your bolts in. Let's speed up here a little bit as I just tighten up those bolts, the Allen or Torx bit and ratchet. Torque for 30 foot pounds. Okay, now take that lug nut off and then you lift your wheel in place. Start the two lug nuts that are opposite the valve stem and then put your wheel cover on and start with the rest of the lug nuts. Now with the van on the ground, you want to torque the lug nuts to 100 foot pounds using a star pattern as you tighten them. Once you're done on both sides, pump the break a bunch of times and then test stops from 5 to 10 miles an hour before road testing the vehicle.
We hope this helps you out. Brought to you by www.1AAuto.com, your source for quality replacement parts and the best service on the internet. Please feel free to call us toll-free, 888-844-3393. We're the company that's here for you on the internet and in person.
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