★★★★★
January 25, 2026
Chrysler ride
I replaced them so my grandson could use the car without any problems. With the YouTube video everything went like clockwork.
Replaces
Part Details
Specifications
About TRQ:
TRQ is a trusted brand dedicated to making every repair a success story by combining premium parts with easy installation. Each TRQ part is engineered by a team of automotive experts to meet or exceed OEM standards, delivering enhanced performance and maximum longevity. With rigorous in-house testing, the brand ensures superior fit and function across every product line. TRQ also provides customers with best-in-class, step-by-step installation videos—so you can complete repairs with confidence, whether you're a first-time DIYer or an industry professional.
Product Features
TRQ fully loaded shocks and struts are manufactured using premium raw materials and calibrated to restore original ride comfort. TRQ shocks are fully loaded featuring a pre-loaded bearing plate, upper and lower spring isolator, upper spring seat, coil spring, boot kit, and premium strut. TRQ recommends replacing your shocks or struts in pairs to ensure even wear of components and improved ride comfort. All products are fit and road-tested in our Massachusetts R&D facility to ensure we deliver on our promise of Trusted Reliable Quality.
Our direct fit gas-charged shock absorbers help restore your vehicle's handling and ride quality to just like new.
Replacing struts used to require specialized tools to compress, remove, and transfer the old spring and mount. Our Pre-assembled, complete strut & spring assemblies come with all new parts and make the job much quicker and easier for the do-it-yourself mechanic.
Strut & spring assembly contains:
Attention California Customers:
WARNING: This product can expose you to chemicals including Chromium (Hexavalent Compounds), which is known to the State of California to cause cancer, and birth defects or other reproductive harm. For more information, go to www.P65Warnings.ca.gov
This part fits 9 vehicles spanning 2005-2010.
| Year | Make | Model | Description |
|---|---|---|---|
| 2005-2010 | Chrysler | 300 | Chrysler 300 Touring Rear Wheel Drive Front & Rear 4 Piece Complete Strut Assembly & Shock Absorber Kit TRQ SKA60966 |
| 2005-2010 | Chrysler | 300 | Chrysler 300 Limited Rear Wheel Drive Front & Rear 4 Piece Complete Strut Assembly & Shock Absorber Kit TRQ SKA60966 |
| 2005-2007 | Chrysler | 300 | Chrysler 300 Base Model Rear Wheel Drive Front & Rear 4 Piece Complete Strut Assembly & Shock Absorber Kit TRQ SKA60966 |
| 2008-2009 | Chrysler | 300 | Chrysler 300 LX Rear Wheel Drive Front & Rear 4 Piece Complete Strut Assembly & Shock Absorber Kit TRQ SKA60966 |
| 2009 | Chrysler | 300 | Chrysler 300 Signature Series Rear Wheel Drive Front & Rear 4 Piece Complete Strut Assembly & Shock Absorber Kit TRQ SKA60966 |
| 2010 | Chrysler | 300 | Chrysler 300 S Rear Wheel Drive Front & Rear 4 Piece Complete Strut Assembly & Shock Absorber Kit TRQ SKA60966 |
| 2006 | Dodge | Charger | Dodge Charger without Police Package without Sport Suspension Front & Rear 4 Piece Complete Strut Assembly & Shock Absorber Kit TRQ SKA60966 |
| 2007-2010 | Dodge | Charger | Dodge Charger Rear Wheel Drive without Police Package without Sport Suspension Front & Rear 4 Piece Complete Strut Assembly & Shock Absorber Kit TRQ SKA60966 |
| 2005-2008 | Dodge | Magnum | Dodge Magnum Rear Wheel Drive without Police Package without Sport Suspension Front & Rear 4 Piece Complete Strut Assembly & Shock Absorber Kit TRQ SKA60966 |
| Brand Label | Part Number |
|---|---|
| KYB | 349065 |
| Monroe Shocks & Struts | 172248 |
| Monroe Shocks & Struts | 5797 |
| Dodge | 4895682AB |
| Chrysler | 4782714AD |
| Chrysler | 4895687AC |
| Gabriel | G51721 |
| Dodge | 4895719AD |
| KYB | SR4088 |
| Unity Automotive | 253600 |
| Unity Automotive | 11260 |
| KYB | SR4087 |
| KYB | 551136 |
This item may be interchangeable with parts from other brands with the above part numbers. This information is provided only for reference and does not guarantee that the item you are purchasing is identical to parts with part numbers from the brands listed above. To confirm that this item fits your vehicle, use the above "Check Vehicle Fit" option.
Lifetime Warranty
This item is backed by our limited lifetime warranty. In the event that this item should fail due to manufacturing defects during intended use, we will replace the part free of charge. This warranty covers the cost of the part only.
FREE Shipping is standard on orders shipped to the lower 48 States (Contiguous United States). Standard shipping charges apply to Hawaii and Alaska.
Shipping is not available to a P.O. Box, APO/FPO/DPO addresses, US Territories, or Canada for this item.
Expedited is available on checkout to the United States, excluding Alaska, Hawaii.
Final shipping costs are available at checkout.
Created on:
Tools used
Hi, I'm Mike from 1AAuto. We've been selling auto parts for over 30 years! We're dedicated to delivering quality auto parts, expert customer service, and fast and free shipping, all backed by our 100% satisfaction guarantee. So visit us at 1AAuto.com, your trusted source for quality auto parts.
In this video, we're going to be working with our 2006 Chrysler 300. We're going to show you how to remove and replace your vehicle's front strut assembly. Now, we're doing this on the passenger side by the procedure is the same on the driver's, and we do recommend you replace these as a pair.
If you like this video, please click subscribe. We have a ton more information on this and many other vehicles. If you need this part for your car, you can follow the link down in the description over to 1AAuto.com.
Here are the items you'll need for this repair: full metric socket set, ratchet, socket extensions, breaker bar, torque wrench, 14mm x 2 nut, locking pliers, bungee cord, gloves, rust penetrant, jack and jack stands
Using a 21 millimeter socket and a breaker bar loosen all of your lug nuts about one turn. Raise and support your vehicle. We're using a lift to make it easier to show you what's going on, but this job can easily be done at home with a jack and jack stands. Remove your lug nuts the rest of the way by hand. Remove your wheel and tire.
Remove the nut on the bottom of your ball joint with a 19 millimeter socket and ratchet. Using the 19 millimeter socket and ratchet, loosen the nut on the upper ball joint and remove it. Remove the 19 millimeter nuts securing the sway bar link onto the strut, and we're going to try this with a 19 millimeter socket and ratchet. However, we may need a breaker bar and pair of vice grips. We couldn't quite get it loose with the socket and ratchet, so we're going for a 19 millimeter socket and a breaker bar, which seems to have done the trick. Now that it's loose, we'll go back to our ratchet.
Now, fortunately, ours isn't very rusty, so I'm just holding the back side of the sway bar link by hand to remove the nut. You may have to clamp it down with a pair of vice grips in order to get it to stay still while you remove the nut. We'll remove the top of the sway bar from the strut.
Using an 18 millimeter socket and a breaker bar, we'll loosen the bottom bolt for the strut. Now, the nut on the back of the strut is welded, so you shouldn't have to counter-hold it. However, if it starts spinning, you should be able to hold it steady with a 21 millimeter wrench. Once the bolt starts loosening up, you may be able to switch to an 18 millimeter socket and ratchet. The trick here is I'm putting my fingers behind the head of the bolt while I twist and pulling back at the same time to help spin it out of the bushing. Once the bolt is out of the threads, you should be able to just wiggle it out. Using a 13 millimeter socket, ratchet and extension remove the three 13 millimeter nuts on the top of your strut.
Now, we installed a strut bar into our vehicle; yours may or may not have one, but this process will be the same regardless. When you're removing the last 13 millimeter nut, you'll want to be sure to reach underneath the vehicle and support the strut with your other hand to make sure that it doesn't just drop out and damage something. Be careful not to overstretch the hydraulic brake hose. Go ahead and snap that ABS sensor off to give yourself a little more slack. Should be able to push down and remove the strut assembly from the vehicle.
Here we have our old strut that we removed from our vehicle, and our new part from 1AAuto.com. What you see here is actually a quick strut or a complete strut assembly. This means that your new part comes with a new shock or strut tube with a new spring, new billow, new bump stop, and a new strut top and bearing. This means that the entire assembly can be changed out as a unit without the need for special tools and spring compressors, which can make the job more difficult and a little more dangerous. As you can see, there are some aesthetic differences where the springs look just a little bit different, but everything should match up to the same spring rates on our vehicle so it rides just like new.
We have the same flange here to mount the stud for our sway bar link, and we have the same forked flange at the bottom here, which will sit over the bushing in our lower control arm. However, the old part has this welded nut on it and the new part does not come with this. We needed to get our hands on an M14 by 2.0 nut for this; a flange nut would be preferred. Other than that, the new strut top has the same three bolt mounting location on it and comes with a nice new set of flange nuts for the top here.
If your old struts are worn out, riding and handling poorly, creating odd weight transfer of the vehicle or bouncy or making noise, this new part from 1A Auto is going to go in direct fit, safe, and easy and fix you up right.
Reinstall the strut. Try to line up the top first and then maneuver the bottom back over the lower control arm. Reach up and start one of your 13 millimeter nuts by hand. Once you've got that started to secure the strut, reinstall the upper ball joint and its 19 millimeter nut. Now, you'll notice I'm pressing down on the strut here while I install the nut. This is because the tapered seat helps prevent the threads from spinning, making it easier to install by hand. Finish tightening up your ball joint with your 19 millimeter socket and ratchet. We'll then torque it to 35 foot-pounds and add 90 degrees.
Finish installing your new flange nuts onto the top of the strut. You may have to move it around a little to get that top one to seat where you want it. Tighten and torque the 13 millimeter nuts to 20 foot-pounds with a 13 millimeter socket and a torque wrench. Align the bottom bolt hole and install your 19 millimeter bolt. In place of the welded nut, which does not come on our new strut, we're going to use another 14 by 2 nut that we had. We'll put a 19 millimeter wrench on that; yours may vary. Then we'll tighten up the 18 millimeter bolt with a socket and ratchet. Then we'll torque it to 128 foot-pounds.
Install the upper portion of the sway bar link through the strut and start the new, this is a 22 millimeter nut. Now, this has a nylon lock on the end, so we're not going to be able to put it on by hand, so we'll grab the back side with a pair of locking jaw pliers just like we did on the bottom. Use a 22 millimeter socket and ratchet to snug it up before torquing it to 95 foot-pounds.
Reinstall your wheel and tire and get your 21 millimeter lug nuts as tight as you can by hand. Lower the partial weight of your vehicle back onto the tires. Torque your lug nuts to 110 foot-pounds in a cross pattern.
Thanks for watching. Visit us at 1AAuto.com for quality auto parts, fast and free shipping, and the best customer service in the industry.
Tools used
Hi, I'm Mike from 1A Auto. We've been selling auto parts for over 30 years. We're dedicated to delivering quality auto parts, expert customer service, fast and free shipping, all backed by our 100% satisfaction guarantee. Visit us at 1AAuto.com, your trusted source for quality auto parts.
In this video, we're going to be working with our 2006 Chrysler 300. We're going to show you how to remove and replace the vehicle's rear shock. If you like this video, please click subscribe. We have a ton more information on this and many other vehicles. If you need this part for your car, you can follow the link down in the description over to 1AAuto.com. Here are the items you'll need for this repair.
Using a 21mm socket and a breaker bar, break all of your lug nuts loose about one turn before raising your vehicle. Now these chrome cap-style lug nuts are prone to having this chrome covering get water behind them and loosen up, so if you can't get it on well like I can't here, just give the socket a couple of taps to make sure you get good contact when removing it. Now if these are really loose or you find a lot of them in poor condition like that, it's a good idea to change out all of your lug nuts.
Raise and support your vehicle. We're using a lift to make it easier to show you what's going on, but this job can easily be done at home on a jack and jack stands. Finish removing your lug nuts. You should be able to do this by hand now. Remove the wheel and tire from the vehicle. Now this is an aluminum wheel on a steel hub, so you may have to work it back and forth a little bit to get it to free up.
Remove the two 16mm bolts at the top of your shock with a socket, ratchet, and extension. You should now be able to grab the top of the shock and compress it. Using an 18mm wrench and a 15mm socket and breaker bar, loosen and remove the bottom bolt of the shock. Once you get it loose, you may be able to switch to a socket and ratchet. Now you can wiggle the shock and remove the bottom bolt and remove the shock from the vehicle.
You'll notice on the end of the shock stud here, there's this little portion with two flat edges. Now they do make a special socket to remove that but you don't necessarily need one. We're going to use a pair of locking jaw pliers. Simply lock onto that. Be careful not to hit the actual threads. Lock that on nice and tight. Using a 15mm wrench, loosen the nut on the top of the shock. Remove the nut as well as the top washer there, and remove the shock mount from the end of your shock.
Here we have our old shock that we removed from our vehicle and our new part from 1AAuto.com. As you can see, there are some minor aesthetic differences but the parts themselves will function in the same way. We have the same length shock body and piston under this dust boot, which is new on our new part. We have a nice new solid bushing at the bottom with the eyelet for our bolt. At the top, we have the same stud, which comes with a new nut. This actually fits a variety of applications, so we have two washers here. We'll only be using one of them when we reattach it to our strut mount. When your shocks bad, they stop controlling the rate of motion in your rear suspension and can cause it to feel like it's jarring, like a very harsh movement, or it can feel bouncy because it's not limiting the number of times the suspension can travel up and down after hitting a bump, or, if the mount itself or a bushing goes bad, it can make some loud clunking going over bumps. Fortunately, this new part from 1A Auto goes in direct fit just like the original equipment and will fix you up right.
Remove the nut on the end of your new shock. Remove the washers. This is the only one we want. We'll take our shock mount, make sure the rubber is in good condition. Ours looks nice so we'll go ahead and put it back in. Slide that on. Get your new nut on as tight as you can by hand. Using your 15mm wrench, tighten that nut up. You may need to use your vice grips to keep the top from rotating while you finish tightening it down.
Now we're ready to reinstall on our vehicle. Place the top of the shock roughly where it sits in the vehicle and compress it. Line it up with the hole in the lower control arm and allow the shock to extend out, at which point we'll reinstall our bolt and the nut. Using your 18mm wrench and your 15mm socket and ratchet, we'll snug up that bottom bolt before torqueing. Torque the bottom bolt to 53 foot-pounds.
Reinstall your two 16mm bolts. Make sure you get them both lined up before you tighten either of them down. Torque those bolts to 38 foot-pounds.
Reinstall your wheel and tire. Install all of your lug nuts as tight as you can by hand. Torque your lug nuts to 110 foot-pounds in a cross pattern.
Thanks for watching. Visit us at 1AAuto.com for quality auto parts, fast and free shipping, and the best customer service in the industry.
SKA60966
I replaced them so my grandson could use the car without any problems. With the YouTube video everything went like clockwork.
Super nice. The suspension feels like new. thank you so much. ??
Perfect fit and finish
Bolted right in fast and easy.
They fit just right. Nice affordable prices and delivered on time.
Bought these a few months ago, but waited for a break in period to give a good review. Overall they are good, they fit perfect, had all the hardware (including a new nut for the lower bolt) and the install videos make it that much easier. I could immediately feel a difference from the originals. One thing I will say, if you live in a colder climate, be wary of installing during winter. An arctic front came through about a week after install and prevented the struts from absorbing bumps and dips as designed, making for some very rough drives (hence only 4 stars). Warmer weather has softened them up, as well as some miles.
Fit was good and install was fairly easy. Although one of the front steuts was sent without the bottom nut, forcing me to cut the OE nut off and use it.
Parts were great fit perfect to bad it didn't fixs my problem .My problem ended being gears are slipping .
I don't know what was up with the first set but the new set just put them on rides like a Cadillac I really appreciate it.. the customer service here A-1 Auto is amazing very professional and back their product up 100% I'll be ordering more parts from this company their pricing is amazing..
The complete strut assembly made install a breeze. Super fast shipping. The car drives as good as new.
This kit is not specific to engine size. The parts are listed to fit 2005-2010 Chrysler 300C models that are Rear Wheel Drive and without Nivomat Self Leveling Suspension.
Currently, we do not carry this part for your vehicle. We're always updating our inventory so please check back soon!
This is listed to fit: 2005-2010 Chrysler 300 Base Model Rear Wheel Drive without Nivomat Self Leveling Suspension 2005-2010 Chrysler 300 C Rear Wheel Drive without Nivomat Self Leveling Suspension 2005-2010 Chrysler 300 Touring Rear Wheel Drive without Nivomat Self Leveling Suspension 2005-2010 Chrysler 300 Limited Rear Wheel Drive without Nivomat Self Leveling Suspension
No, this does not fit the AWD models.
No, stock height
If you can provide us with the full year, make and model of the vehicle we can confirm fit for you!
Yes these will fit your application as long as you do not have Nivomat or Sport suspension.
Yes, this kit includes the driver and passenger side for both front and rear.
This part will not fit your vehicle, but we may have a part that is listed to fit. Please enter your vehicle's year make and model in the search bar at the top of the page. This will display parts guaranteed to fit your vehicle. Just be sure to verify all of the information shown in the Vehicle Fit tab before ordering.
This will fit a 2006 Chrysler 300 C Rear Wheel Drive without Nivomat Self Leveling Suspension.
