2007 Chevrolet Malibu with 300mm Front Sway Bar Links without RPO Code FE5 (Performance Ride Handling Suspension) Front with Rear Disc Brakes 8 Piece Steering, Suspension, & Drivetrain Kit TRQ PSA56382

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In this video, we're going to show you how to replace a front stabilizer link. The symptom of a bad stabilizer link is if you're hearing a clunking in the front of your car, but when you go around a curve, either left or right, the clunking seems to go away. That's usually a sign that your stabilizer link is starting to loosen up. Tools you'll need are 8mm to 19mm wrenches as well as a hammer.

Turn your wheel all the way to one side or the other. Then you can reach in behind and you can see it here. This is the top of your link. You can reach in behind and grab that with your hand and shake it back and forth and if you can duplicate that clanking or rattling sound then that's what you need to replace.

Start out by using a 19mm socket or a wrench and loosen the plastic covers and then remove the wheel cover. If you don't have the benefit of air tools, you'll want to loosen the lug nuts up while it's on the ground, then raise and support your vehicle and then remove the lug nuts and the wheel.

Right here is our stabilizer link. Use a little bit of penetrating oil on the upper and lower, let that sit for awhile. We've got an 18mm wrench on the bolt and 8mm wrench on the end of the shaft there. It looks like it actually coming loose, there goes that bolt. Get that started. Put this on there and I'm going to put this one on down there and same thing. Here's a close up look. I've got the 18mm wrench on there. The 8mm wrench is just holding that stud in place and I just keep flipping back and forth with the larger wrench, grabbing onto the nut and removing it. I'm just going to speed up the tape here. It takes a little while to get these things apart. It's a tedious task of getting the wrenches in there, holding it with the smaller wrench and then using the small one and then just angling the larger wrench in there as best you can. Eventually it comes apart.

Here's a new link from 1A Auto. Iit's a little bit different but it actually makes it easier to install. You'll need a 15mm wrench to hold this on that side and then a 19mm socket and ratchet to put the bolt on. We're going to put down in. It mounts in just like your original. Start the locking bolt on here and we'll start the locking bolt down here. Up top, I put my 15mm wrench through from the backside and then a 19mm socket and ratchet. I'll just speed it up as I tighten it up with the ratchet and you want to get it nice and tight and probably 40 to 45 foot-pounds. Then continuing on down to the lower, it's the same as taking it apart. You really can't get a wrench in there or a ratchet in there so you just have to use a wrench. I used the 15mm wrench to hold the stud and then a 19mm wrench to tighten up the nut and it just takes a little while and, then, again, tighten it up between 40 to 45 foot-pounds.

Once you have the wheel back in place then you put the lug nuts on by hand and I just use my impact wrench to just tighten them preliminarily. Now with the vehicle on the ground, torque the lug nuts to 100 foot-pounds using a star pattern. Now put your wheel cover back on, there's a hole for the valve stem then use a socket to tighten up the retainers.

We hope this video helps you out. Brought to you by www.1AAuto.com, your source for quality replacement parts and the best service on the Internet. Please feel free to call us toll-free, 888-844-3393. We're the company that's here for you on the Internet and in person.

Brought to you by 1AAuto.com, your source for quality replacement parts and the best service on the internet.

In this video we show you how to replace a front hub on this 2006 Chevy Malibu, same as any 04 to 08 Malibu as well as the Pontiac G6. You know if you have a bad hub if you jack the front wheel off the ground, and you can grab the top and bottom of the wheel and shake it and feel play and then you can also grab each side left and right, shake it and feel the same play. That kind of four-angled play is usually because of a bad hub. Tools you'll need are jack and jack stands, various sockets 13 to 19 mm plus a 35 mm socket with ratchets and extensions. You'll need a breaker bar or a pipe for some extra leverage, flat blade screwdriver, large hammer, wire brush and a torque wrench.

Start out by using a 19 mm socket or wrench and loosen the plastic covers and then remove the wheel cover. You're going to remove the lug nuts, and if you don't have air tools, you'll want to have the wheel on the ground, loosen the lug nuts. Also at this point, you'll want to loosen that 35 mm hub nut. I do have the benefit of having an impact wrench, so I'm able to do that afterwards, but if you don't have an impact wrench, you want to use a breaker bar and a 35 mm socket and loosen that center hub nut now while the wheel is on the ground.

Grab hold of the steering knuckle and turn it to make it easier to reach the back of the caliper. The first thing we're going to do is remove these two bolts here. These two bolts are 14 mm and they should come off pretty easy. I'm just going to speed it up as I remove those two bolts. Now your disc should come off, but since there are some pretty decent ridges here. What you want to do is take a good size screwdriver and pry out with this hole and that kind of loosens up the caliper, and the caliper comes right off. Put it up there for now, and you can just kind of pry out your pads.

Now we need to remove this caliper bracket, so we'll remove two 15 mm bolts here and here. These are going to be somewhat tighter, so I'm going to use my ratchet. If you have a breaker bar, that's the best thing or use a piece of pipe, put it on your ratchet, gives you extra leverage and it comes apart pretty easily. The same thing top one. Get it started.
I'm just going to speed it up here again as I remove those bolts. I found that once I turned them probably three or four turns then they actually came out by hand. Comes over, pulls right off. Right up here is your ABS harness with a little tab pull that down, disconnect that, then just use a screwdriver, push these tabs down and pull the plug off. I take a 35 mm bolt here for the hub. As I said earlier, if you don't have the benefit of impact tools or air tools, you'll want to loosen this hub nut while the wheel is still on and the vehicle is on the ground.

Now your axle you don't want to make it a habit to just beat on this mercilessly with the hammer. What I do is I give it one good tap, and I watch closely, and if that axle moves with one good hit, you know it's broken loose. You don't have to worry too much about it. Okay, the axle moved, so I should be able to get it apart, no problem. If the axle doesn't move with the tap of a hammer, then you'll need to use an axle puller which bolts onto your lug and then use the bolt to push the axle through.

Next we're going to remove the three bolts that hold the hub. Okay, one is up there, one there and one around the back side is kind of hidden tucked right in there. These bolts, especially the top one, you're going to want probably 3/8 drive tools, because they're skinnier, and they allow you go get in there. I'm going to get a pretty good-sized flexible handle and try that. I can use my pipe for a little more leverage. These should come apart pretty easily. At this point I'll speed it up. Use the pipe for the extra leverage, get the bolts loosened up and then you can go at it with the ratchet and remove them the rest of the way. You'll want to turn your steering knuckle so that you can reach the third nut on the backside and then just remove those bolts. Once you have the bolts out, good there. I'm going to speed it up here. Basically you just hit it side to side, up and down and you'll see the hub start to separate from the steering knuckle and then eventually it comes loose, then you can pull it right off. Take the hub off, and your backing plate off. Just kind of wire tied my brake caliper up there. Use a screwdriver and a wire brush to just kind of clean the corrosion from the steering knuckle.

It may need a light coat of grease. It really helps things go back together. You can use some penetrating oil or just regular oil. Take your backing plate and I'm just going to put that in place. Your connector one you want to have that up toward the rear, through the backing plate and put your connector up and through and push on the CV a little bit. Make sure that your electro connector is toward the rear and get the hub onto the axle, spin this around in the correct position, put one of your bolts through. Push everything into place. I'll speed it up here again. You push the hub on, make sure it's in place correctly, start the other two bolts. All the time you're doing this just make sure that ABS wire doesn't get pinched in there anywhere and tighten up those bolts.

Make sure your wire is pulled through, and it's free and put the receptacle right up and clip it into place and I'll reconnect it. Tighten these bolts to hold the hub to the steering knuckle with 65 foot pounds. I'll just speed it up here. Turn the steering knuckle and tighten up the other two again to 65 foot pounds.

New rotor from 1A Auto. Put it on. Take a lug nut. Bolt it into place here. Now take your bracket and it goes basically between the knuckle and the disc, put your bolt in, find its way. These bolts you want to tighten up to 85 foot pounds. Put this one on the front. You want to make sure that your slides are pushed in here, bring your caliper down right on top, two bolts. These two bolts you want to tighten to 35 foot pounds. Once you have the wheel back in place, then you put the lug nuts on by hand, and then I'm just use my impact wrench to just tighten them up preliminarily.

Now with the vehicle on the ground, torque the lug nuts to 100 pounds using a star pattern, now torque your center hub nut, the 35 mm nut with 159 foot pounds, put your wheel cover back on, there's a hole for the valve stem, then use a socket to tighten up the retainers. Last but certainly not least before you drive your vehicle, make sure you pump the brakes a bunch of times, get the pedal to feel nice and firm when you have to reset those caliper pistons, then do stops from five and ten miles an hour before you road test the vehicle.

We hope this helps you out. Brought to you by www.1AAuto.com, your source for quality replacement parts and the best service on the internet. Please feel free to call us toll free 888-844-3393. We're the company that's here for you on the internet and in person.

Brought to you by 1AAuto.com, your source for quality replacement parts and the best service on the Internet.

Hi, I'm Don from 1A Auto. I hope this how-to video helps you out, and the next time you need a part for your vehicle, think of 1AAuto.com. Thanks.

In this video, we're going to show you how to replace an outer tire rod on this 2007 Pontiac G6. It's pretty much the same as any 2005 to 2010 G6, as well as a Saturn Aura. We show you the right-hand or passenger side, but the left-hand driver side is the same procedure. You'll need a new tie rod or tie rods from www.1AAuto.com, jack and jack stands, 18mm and 19mm sockets with a socket wrench, maybe even a breaker bar or a pipe for leverage, tape measure, 18mm wrench, large adjustable or a 13/16 wrench, hammer, and a torque wrench.

Depending on what wheels you have, start out be removing the lug caps, and then we'll cover if applicable. Then, if you don't have the benefit of air tools, you're going to want to loosen the lug nuts with the vehicle on the ground. Then raise and support the vehicle. I'll remove the lug nuts, wheel, and tire.

Use a tape measure to get a general idea of a total length. You can use a reference point of the outer part of the boot, and then the outer part of the tie rod end, and just remember that number. On the end of the tie rod is an 18mm, so I'm using the socket and socket wrench to remove that nut. I'll fast-forward as I take off that nut.

Locate the nut at the end of the outer tire rod. We're going to go ahead and just loosen it just a little bit. I'm using a 13/16 wrench. You can use the metric equivalent. With a hammer, go ahead and give the end of that spindle a whack and pull the outer tie rod out. Then you can go ahead and unscrew it. I'll fast-forward through that. Be as careful as you can to not turn the inner tie rod.

Here, we're going to reinstall. You'll notice we are reinstalling the old one. There's nothing wrong with the tie rods on this vehicle. We just are doing this to show you how to do it. Tie rods from 1A Auto are going to be an exact match to the original. You may want to just measure the length. There could be a slight difference in length, and you would want to make sure you align it well.

Go ahead and put that 18mm nut back on the outer tire rod. I'm using a small pair of vice grips to hold the other part of the ball joint so that it doesn't spin as I tighten up that 18mm nut. There might be other ways that you would find easier to do it, but that's the one that I use. Then once I get it through, I'll be able to put the vice grip on the end that's coming through the nut. You can see here that once I take that socket off, I'll have plenty of room to put that on, and then use an open-ended wrench.

Here, I'm using that vice grip on the bottom, and I'm going to use an open-ended wrench to finish up tightening it up. I'll fast-forward through this. Now tighten up the nut on the inner tie rod that we just slightly loosened. Make sure that's snug up against the back portion of that outer tie rod. I'm just verifying that the tire rod is in somewhat of a right position, and it will be ready for me to take over to have an alignment done.

Install the wheel, and tighten up on your lug nuts. I'll go ahead and fast-forward through this. In a star pattern, go ahead and torque your lug nuts to roughly 100 foot-pounds. Reinstall your hubcap, and make sure that you line up the notch in the hubcap for where your valve stem is. Then, by hand, use your 19mm socket to tighten up those plastic lug nut covers. I'll fast-forward through that.

We hope this video helps you out. Brought to you by www.1AAuto.com, your source for quality replacement parts and the best service on the Internet. Please feel free to call us toll-free, 888-844-3393. We're the company that's here for you on the Internet and in person.

Brought to you by 1AAuto.com, your source for quality replacement parts and the best service on the Internet.

Hi, I'm Don from 1A Auto. I hope this how-to video helps you out, and the next time you need a part for your vehicle, think of 1AAuto.com. Thanks.

In this video, we're going to show you how to replace a front control arm on this 2007 Pontiac G6. It's pretty much the same for any G6 from 2005 to 2010, as well as the Saturn Aura. We show you the right hand or passenger's side, but the left hand or driver's side is the same procedure. You'll need a new control arm or control arms from 1AAuto.com. If one of your control arms bushings have gone bad, most likely the other one's not far behind. Replacing them in pairs is usually a good idea. You'll also need jack and jack stands, 15mm to 18mm wrenches and sockets, a ratchet and a breaker bar or a pipe for some leverage, a pry bar, and a torque wrench.

Start out by using just a socket to loosen the lug nut covers or the wheel cover as in this case. We're going to use an impact or air tools sometimes, if you don't have the benefit of air tools just start with the vehicle on the ground, loosen the lug nuts, then raise and secure the vehicle and remove the lug nuts, wheel and tire.

Okay, now from underneath looking out, use a 15mm wrench and a 16mm socket and ratchet, and loosen the ball joint, bolt, and nut. Use an 18mm socket and a ratchet and a pipe for extra leverage to remove the front bolt. This is looking towards the center of the car. There's a bolt in the front of the control arm and we remove that.

Towards where the back of the tire would be, you'll see a large bushing here. There are two 18mm bolts right on the bottom and they have nuts on top. We use an 18mm socket and a ratchet, and we're going to use a piece of pipe for extra leverage. You can also use a breaker bar and just break those bolts free a little bit. Now, I'm going to fast-forward as we take an 18mm wrench, feed it right under the stabilizer bar there, grab onto the nut that's on top, and then remove the bolts. We're just going to want to use a wrench and loosen up this bolt a little bit, it just makes things easier to come around. And, actually, you can take it right off because it comes off fairly easily.

Now, using a pry bar, we start by prying the front of the control arm out. Then go to the back bushing, put the pry bar behind, and pry out. Reinstall the control arm, and you can see our control arm we're re-installing the original. There's nothing wrong with it, so we're not going to put a new one on. Fairly new car, we're just showing you how to do it.

Put the control arm up in place. The ball joint in place next, and then put the bolt through, and put the nut on to hold it. Now you can take the rear part of the control arm and feed it up into the frame as well as the same time you're feeding the front part up into the frame. Then a little help from the pry bar, get everything lined up and in.

Turn your attention towards the front. Use of a little hammer, and just make sure you get the front lined up fairly well. Put that bolt in place, and you'll have to just grab onto the suspension and work it around. You can use a hammer to tap in once you get it started as well. Have your pry bar in hand, just to help you move around that bushing a little bit until you get the first bolt up through, and then you can put the second bolt up through, put the nuts on the back as well as start the bolt into the end of the bushing.

I'll keep the speed going here as I put a wrench behind and tighten up these two 18mm bolts. These bolts should be between 75 and 85 foot-pounds. Torque the nut for the tie rod to 50 foot-pounds. We apologize, we didn't film this very well. What you want to do is put a jack underneath the lower ball joint and lift your suspension up until there's just weight off the jack stand that gets your suspension into the right geometry, and then tighten that rear bushing bolt. You need to tighten that up to about 55 foot-pounds and then tighten this front bolt to 75 foot-pounds.

Reinstall the wheel. Put the lug nuts on by hand first just to make sure you don't cross thread them and then tighten them preliminarily. Put the vehicle on the ground, and torque the lug nuts to 100 foot-pounds using a star pattern. Now reinstall your hub cap, and we're going to do that with that 19mm socket. I'm just going to screw them in by hand. Also, you want to make sure that you line up the valve stem with the notch in the hub cab for the valve stem.

We hope this video helps you out. Brought to you by www.1AAuto.com, your source for quality replacement parts and the best service on the Internet. Please feel free to call us toll-free, 888-844-3393. We're the company that's here for you on the Internet and in person.