★★★★★
March 15, 2026
I'm satisfied with these parts that I ordered.
They were the right parts for my vehicle and at a good price.
Replaces
About TRQ:
TRQ is a trusted brand dedicated to making every repair a success story by combining premium parts with easy installation. Each TRQ part is engineered by a team of automotive experts to meet or exceed OEM standards, delivering enhanced performance and maximum longevity. With rigorous in-house testing, the brand ensures superior fit and function across every product line. TRQ also provides customers with best-in-class, step-by-step installation videos—so you can complete repairs with confidence, whether you're a first-time DIYer or an industry professional.
Product Features
TRQ brake kits are designed to restore your brake system to like-new performance. TRQ brake pads are positive molded, thermal scorched, chamfered, and utilize a multi-layer shim for enhanced performance and service life. TRQ rotors have a non-directional finish that reduces the break-in period for new rotors as well as reducing vibrations throughout the rotor’s lifecycle. All products are fit and road-tested in our Massachusetts R&D facility to ensure we deliver on our promise of Trusted Reliable Quality.
Rotors do not include wheel bearings or seals.
Attention California Customers:
WARNING: This product can expose you to chemicals including Lead and Lead Compounds, which are known to the State of California to cause cancer, and birth defects or other reproductive harm. For more information, go to www.P65Warnings.ca.gov.
This part fits 11 vehicles spanning 1991-2002.
| Year | Make | Model | Description |
|---|---|---|---|
| 1995-1996 | Chevrolet | Blazer | Chevrolet Blazer Rear Wheel Drive Front Ceramic Brake Pad & Rotor Kit TRQ BKA11550 |
| 1991 | Chevrolet | Blazer S10 | Chevrolet Blazer S10 Rear Wheel Drive Front with 4 Wheel ABS Brakes Ceramic Brake Pad & Rotor Kit TRQ BKA11550 |
| 1992-1994 | Chevrolet | Blazer S10 | Chevrolet Blazer S10 Rear Wheel Drive Front Ceramic Brake Pad & Rotor Kit TRQ BKA11550 |
| 1994-1995 | Chevrolet | S10 Pickup | Chevrolet S10 Pickup Rear Wheel Drive Front with 4 Wheel ABS Brakes Ceramic Brake Pad & Rotor Kit TRQ BKA11550 |
| 1996-2002 | Chevrolet | S10 Pickup | Chevrolet S10 Pickup Rear Wheel Drive Front Ceramic Brake Pad & Rotor Kit TRQ BKA11550 |
| 1992-1997 | GMC | Jimmy | GMC Jimmy Rear Wheel Drive Front Ceramic Brake Pad & Rotor Kit TRQ BKA11550 |
| 1991 | GMC | Jimmy S-15 | GMC Jimmy S-15 Rear Wheel Drive Front with 4 Wheel ABS Brakes Ceramic Brake Pad & Rotor Kit TRQ BKA11550 |
| 1994-1995 | GMC | S-15 Sonoma | GMC S-15 Sonoma Rear Wheel Drive Front with 4 Wheel ABS Brakes Ceramic Brake Pad & Rotor Kit TRQ BKA11550 |
| 1996-2002 | GMC | S-15 Sonoma | GMC S-15 Sonoma Rear Wheel Drive Front Ceramic Brake Pad & Rotor Kit TRQ BKA11550 |
| 1996-1997 | Isuzu | Hombre | Isuzu Hombre Front Ceramic Brake Pad & Rotor Kit TRQ BKA11550 |
| 1998-2000 | Isuzu | Hombre | Isuzu Hombre Rear Wheel Drive Front Ceramic Brake Pad & Rotor Kit TRQ BKA11550 |
| Brand Label | Part Number |
|---|---|
| Raybestos Brakes | SGD154C |
| Raybestos Brakes | EHT154 |
| Raybestos Brakes | MGD154CH |
| Aimco | 5575 |
| Bendix | PRT1631 |
| Bendix | PRT5241 |
| DuraGo | BR31254 |
| Aimco | 31254 |
| Wagner | BD125172 |
| Raybestos Brakes | 56757 |
| Raybestos Brakes | 56137 |
| DIY Solutions | BFS00744 |
| Cadillac | 18026297 |
| Chevrolet | 12300242 |
| Buick | 18026297 |
| Oldsmobile | 18026297 |
| FMSI | CD154 |
| Raybestos Brakes | 56137FZN |
| Raybestos Brakes | 56757P |
| Raybestos Brakes | 56137P |
| Raybestos Brakes | 56757FZN |
| Raybestos Brakes | 56137R |
| Raybestos Brakes | 56757R |
This item may be interchangeable with parts from other brands with the above part numbers. This information is provided only for reference and does not guarantee that the item you are purchasing is identical to parts with part numbers from the brands listed above. To confirm that this item fits your vehicle, use the above "Check Vehicle Fit" option.
Lifetime Warranty
This item is backed by our limited lifetime warranty. In the event that this item should fail due to manufacturing defects during intended use, we will replace the part free of charge. This warranty covers the cost of the part only.
FREE Shipping is standard on orders shipped to the lower 48 States (Contiguous United States). Standard shipping charges apply to Hawaii and Alaska.
Shipping is not available to a P.O. Box, APO/FPO/DPO addresses, US Territories, or Canada for this item.
Expedited is available on checkout to the United States, excluding Alaska, Hawaii.
Final shipping costs are available at checkout.
Created on:
Tools used
In this video I'm going to show you how to service the front wheel bearings in this 2001 Chevy S-10 pickup. Same as any S-10 pickup, or the Blazer, and this is a two wheel drive vehicle.
Tools you'll need for this job are jack and jack stands, 19mm socket and ratchet or a lug wrench, 3/8 Allen wrench, a combination wrench for some extra leverage on that Allen wrench, a wire brush or medium sandpaper to clean off some bolts, 27mm socket and ratchet, pliers, torque wrench, bearing grease, a hammer or a press, and race installation tools or large sockets.
For the next two minutes or so here, I'm going to show you taking apart the wheel and the breaks to get the rotor off. Here I'm just taking the caps off of the lug nuts, then removing that center cap, then removing the wheel. Here I'm actually removing the dust cap from the hub. Now removing the wheel. Now going through removing the breaks. The brakes are held on by two 3/8 Allen bolts. Use a large screwdriver to pry out and loosen up the caliper, it helps get it off easier. Use a wrench on the Allen wrench, it gives it a little more leverage if you hook that on there like that, and remove those bolts that hold the caliper in place. Now, to remove the rotor take a rag and wipe the grease out of here, and there is a cotter pin right here. Take a good pair of needle nose pliers, if you can bend it up and then pull it out that's a good thing. Sometimes what's easiest to do is just take the ends and bend them and break them off, that makes it easy to pull out. This one's coming out fairly easily. This truck has a 27mm bolt, and it's not uncommon to be able to put this on there and just undo it by hand. You don't tighten this bolt up significantly. Take the bolt off, now the bearing assembly, the washer comes off, along with my rotor. The bearing stays put for now. Take that out so that it doesn't fall out.
I need to clarify for you, you're going to see me working on the old rotor that I tool off the truck, and then you're going to see me working on a new rotor. I want this video to talk to if you have a good rotor, you need to take the bearings out, take the bearing races out, and then reinstall the bearing races and the bearings. I need to put new rotors on this truck because the old ones are worn out, so that's why you see me working on two different rotors. I show you how to remove the rear seal and the races using the old rotor, and then I show you how to reinstall the race in the old rotor using the old rotor and the old race, because my new rotor came with the races installed. Generally, when you replace just bearings, you replace the bearings and races. I show you how to do that with the old rotor.
We've got a seal in here, so what you want to do is take a pair of pliers, lay them across like that, take a screw driver, and carefully pop that seal right up and out. A little freeze frame here. I'll tell you, I admit I was shocked at how easily that came out. You didn't see the look on my face on the camera because my face isn't on the camera. Generally you'll have to work a little harder at pulling the seal out than that. Like I said, for some reason it kind of popped right out, but that's how you do it. You put your pliers or another screw driver across there and use that as a lever, and put your screw driver in underneath, and pry it up and out. Now, inside is your inner bearing. Again, take some paper towel and just try and excavate as much of the grease out as possible.
Next we need to remove the bearing race. The race is this surface here, and it can wear just like the bearing. From the back side you can see that there is a surface, if you put your fingernail in, you can see that there's a surface that you can grab onto. You want to turn your rotor over, and I'm going to use this crew driver to point it out, right down in here there is that back side of that race. What we want to use is an impact tool with a nice flat head, and rounded so it doesn't scratch the rotor. We put that tool right down on the back of that race, and you want to hit it on one side, then hit it on the other side. Hit it back in here. You want to keep hitting it on different sides so that you drive the race out uniformly, you don't want to try and drive one side out all at one time. Keep hitting it in different positions. Here is that race out.
Another freeze frame here. I drove the race out of the back side of the rotor. There's also a race on the front side of the rotor that you want to drive out. Now in this next scene I'm going to reinstall the old race in the old rotor, and I'm only doing this not because I'm reusing it, but I'm doing it to show you how to do it. The reason I'm using the old race on the old rotor is because the new rotors from 1A Auto that I reinstall on this truck come with the race installed already, so I didn't really think it was necessary to drive a new race out of a new rotor just to drive it back in.
To reinstall it I've got a race installation tool, this is the right tool to do it. You just want to drop the race down in there, then this tool should be basically the exact same size as the race, maybe a little smaller. Just make sure that you drive it straight down in. You need to have a metal tool to do this, because you need to make sure that it goes straight, and you need to make sure that you're hitting it nice and firm. Now once I make a nice solid sound with the hammer I know it's all the way seeded.
One last freeze frame here. Obviously you would also repeat that step for the front or the outer nearing race, and now you're going to see me working on a brand new rotor with hub. It's just picking up where this one left off with the rotor that I'm actually going to install on the truck.
Here's my new rotor and hub from 1A Auto, with the race installed. I'm going to take a good amount of wheel bearing grease and coat the inside of the hub. I'm going to put a light coat on the race itself. You don't want to have globs on the race; you just want to have a nice light coat on there. Now I'm going to take my bearing and I'm going to work grease right into the cracks where I can see the ends of the roller. On the front side I'm going to work it right into this crack here, then I'm going to coat the rollers outside, not quite so much, just a good coating. I'm going to take my finger and wipe out the inside here, I don't want any big globs of grease in there. Now drop the bearing right in. I'm going to take my seal and drop it on like that. You can use a piece of wood or something like that; I'm just using a larger block of metal, a larger bearing installer. Just make sure that that's nice and evenly installed. I'm going to take the rotor, keep it on the plastic, flip it over, and I'm going to take some grease and just like on the back side, just pack it in there a little bit. Let a light coating stay on the race itself, but not a lot.
Take some paper towels; wipe off your spindle here. You want to check for any ... run your finger on here with a little grease on it. I can see some markings here, but there's no real wear on the spindle. The two surfaces, one here where the inner bearing is, and here where the outer bearing is, there's no real wear on the spindle, so the bearings weren't spinning, which is good. Put the grease on the outer bearing; pack it into that crevice on the back. Put out rotor in place, notice I'm trying not to touch the rotor a lot with my greasy fingers. We've got our bearing in place. Clean the grease off out washer, put the washer on, put our bolt on. We're going to take our ratchet and we're going to pull it a little bit tight, and we're going to spin the rotor around a little bit. We're going to loosen this up, and then we're going to pull it tight again just barely, probably two or three foot pounds, not a lot. We're going to put out nut back on. We're going to pull it kind of tight, we're going to rotate the rotor a little bit, that seats the bearings. We're going to loosen this, then we're going to bring it so it's just starting to seat, then you pull it just a little bit, probably two or three foot pounds. This comes through, grab the end, bend it over, and then that's not going to come out.
We're going to put our dust cap back on and make sure that there's no harmful dust in it. From here on out I'm going to speed through putting the brakes back together. If you want to see this in regular speed, just check out our other videos, we have it in more detail there. There are two important last steps: torque the lug nuts, obviously, to a hundred foot pounds each, and then make sure whenever you take your brakes apart, make sure you pump your brakes before hand, and also do a test stop from five or ten miles an hour before you take your car out on the road.
Tools used
Brought to you by 1AAuto.com, your source for quality replacement parts and the best service on the internet. Hi, I'm Mike Green. I'm one of the owners of 1A Auto. I want to help you save time and money repairing and maintaining your vehicle. I'm going to use my 20 plus years experience restoring and repairing cars and trucks like this to show you the correct way to install parts from 1AAuto.com. The right parts installed correctly, that's going to save you time and money. Thank you, and enjoy the video.
This video is part one of a two part series. We're going to show you how to remove and replace the front brakes on this 2001 S10 pickup and this vehicle is a two wheel drive. In this video, we take you from removing the brakes to getting the new rotors ready for installation. Tools you'll need for this job are jack and jack stands, 19 mm socket and ratchet or your lug wrench, a 3/8ths Allen wrench, a combination wrench for some more leverage and you'll see what I mean, wire brush or some medium sandpaper to clean up some of the bolts, 27 mm socket and ratchet, pliers, a torque wrench, bearing grease and a hammer and block of wood to drive in the seal on the back of your rotor.
Okay, we'll speed up through the first step. Use your socket or your lug wrench and remove the lug nut caps and then remove the wheel center cap. If you don't have the benefit of air tools as I do here, you'll want to loosen your lug nuts while your tire's on the ground first, then raise and support the vehicle, remove the lug nuts and remove the wheel. Okay, so now a quick inspection of the brakes. You can see this pad actually looks pretty good up here. It's got pretty good life left on the outer. Little finger test of the rotor, pretty smooth on this side. Then looking at our inner pad, I'm turning the rotor right there, you can see this is the metal of the pad right here, its right against the rotor. Then you can see right down here the metal of the pad against the rotor and you can hear it.
If you feel on the backside, and I'll show you this after I take the disc off, there are significant grooves worn into this rotor. Next we'll remove the caliper and one thing I'm going to do is I'm going to use a large screwdriver to pry out here and then I'm going to remove two bolts; one here and then one right down here. Here is the body of our caliper and here is the caliper piston. Our brakes are so worn that our caliper piston is way out, so what I'm going to do is use a large screwdriver, put it in there, and I'm prying out. If you watch the piston, it actually starts moving back into the caliper. Looks like I've gotten them to move a little bit. This also helps you to get the calipers off, so you can see now that my pads are not right against the disc.
Next you'll want to remove the two caliper bolts with a 3/8ths Allen wrench inserted into the bolt. Then take a good sized wrench, put it onto the Allen wrench, give you some more leverage, start loosening up that bolt. I'm just going to fast forward here, because I use the Allen wrench and my other wrench for leverage and remove those two bolts that hold the calipers. With those two bolts out, the caliper comes off, our outside pad comes right out and our inside pad will come out. To remove the rotor, take a rag, wipe the grease out of here, and there is a cotter pin right here. If you're going to remove your rotor, then use a screwdriver and hammer and remove your dust cap. Ignore the wheel and tire that's still on there, this was just shot kind of out of order. Take a good pair of needle head pliers, if you can bend it up, pull it out. That's a good thing, sometimes what's easiest to do is just take the ends and bend them, break them off, and that makes it easy to pull out. This one's coming out fairly easily.
This truck has a 27 mm bolt and it's not uncommon to be able to put this on there and just undo it by hand. You don't tighten this bolt up significantly. Take the bolt off. The bearing assembly, the washer comes right off. Take off my rotor, the bearing stays put for now and we'll take that out so it doesn't fall out. Here's my new rotor and hub from 1A Auto with the race installed. I'm going to take a good amount of wheel bearing grease and coat the inside of the hub. I'm going to put a light coat on the race itself. You don't want to have globs on the race, you just want to have a nice, light coat on there. Then I'm going to take my bearing and I'm going to work grease right into the cracks where I can see the bends of the rollers. It's in the front side, we'll work it right into this crack right here and I'm going to kind of coat the roller; the roller's outside. Not quite so much, just a good coating. Then I'm going to take my finger and wipe out the inside here, don't want any big globs of grease in there.
Now drop my bearing right in. Now I'm going to take my seal and drop it all in like that. You can use a piece of wood or something like that, I'm just using a larger block of metal, larger bearing installer, just to make sure that's nice and evenly installed. I'll take the rotor, keep it from the plastic, flip it over, and then we're just going to take some grease and just like on the backside, pack it in there a little bit. Let a light coating stay on the race itself, but not a lot. We'll end this video here, and if you want to see the rest of putting this back together, reinstalling it, just search for the same video with part two.
We hope this helps you out, brought to you by www.1AAuto.com, your source for quality replacement parts and the best service on the internet. Please feel free to call us toll free, 888-844-3393. We're the company that's here for you on the internet and in person.
Tools used
Brought to you by 1AAuto.com. Your source for quality replacement parts and the best service on the internet. This video is part two of a two part series. We will pick it up and replay a couple of scenes from the first video. We are showing you how to do a brake job, a front brake job, on this 2001 S-10, and this is a two-wheel drive truck. Here we'll go through just a quick review of the tools that you're going to need.
Now I'm going to take my seal and drop it on like that. You can use a piece of wood, or something like that. I'm just using a larger block of metal, a larger bearing installer. Just make sure that that's nice and evenly installed. Take our rotor, keep it on the plastic, flip it over. We're just going to take some grease and, just like on the back side, just kind of pack it in there a little bit. Let a light coating stay on the rings itself, but not a lot. Take some paper towels, wipe off your spindle here. You want to check for any - You can just run your finger on here with a little grease on it. I can see some markings here, but there's no real wear on the spindle. The two surfaces, one here where the inner bearing is, and here where the outer bearing is, there's no real wear on the spindle, so the bearings weren't spinning good. Take control with the grease on the outer bearing. Pack it into that crevice on the back.
Put our rotor in place. Notice I'm just trying not to touch the rotor a lot with my greasy fingers. We've got our bearing in place. Clean the ugly grease off of our washer. Put the washer on. Put our bolt on. We're putting it on there. We got to take our ratchet and we're going to pull it a little bit tight, and we're going to spin the rotor around a little bit. We're going to loosen this up and we're going to pull it tight again. Just barely, probably like two or three foot pounds, not a lot. Next, we'll put our nut back on. We're going to pull it kind of tight. We're going to just rotate the rotor a little bit that seats the bearings, and then you're going to loosen this. Then we're going to bring it so it's just starting to seat, and you pull it just a little bit, probably two or three foot pounds. Put this on through and then grab the end, bend it over, and it's not going to come off.
We're going to put our dust cap back on and make sure there's no harmful dust in it. Now use mineral spirits or break parts cleaner, make sure you don't have any grease on the rotor surface. Also do the inside. Now we're going to take our calipers and we're going to push these sleeves out. Wire brush them, make sure there's no deep grooves, or any grooves on them really. All we need to do is push this piston back in. As you can see, I've got a big C-clamp on there, using my old brake pad and push on the piston. As I tighten the C-clamp, the piston goes back into the caliper. This should do just - This will require a little bit of pressure, but it should do it pretty easily. That's the way you know that the caliper is still in good shape. Here's my inner pad, comes with a little clip. Install that into the hole, and then pull it down and on, like that. Make sure you don't get any grease or anything on the pad. Install your pad into the caliper. We've got some pretty good scale on these, so I'm just using a screwdriver, scraping it off first. Then I'll go back with the wire brush. Your outer pad. There's a wear tab on this inner pad. You want to make sure that wear tab goes to the bottom. Put the caliper right down on, it's going to grab hold of the pads.
We've got our caliper bolts all cleaned up. Use some medium grit sandpaper if you need to. You just want to make sure you get all the stuff off them. Then put a nice fine coating of anti-seize on here. You could also use some grease or something. We're also going to put it on these collars here. These should go in. I'm just going to fast-forward here as I put those bolts in with my 3/8 Allen wrench. Then I use my other larger combination wrench for some extra torque when I'm tightening them. These bolts should be tightened between 45 and 50 foot pounds. I use the wrench. Put it on the Allen wrench for some leverage and pull it pretty tight, and then straighten the wheels out so I can put the tires on. Keeping the speed going, I've installed the wheel and tire back on, put the lug nuts on by hand first, and then I'll use my impact wrench just to tighten them up preliminarily.
I'll torque these to 100 foot pounds using a star pattern. Speed up as I finish torqueing. When I say use a star pattern, I just trace the bolts in a pattern like a star. Basically, like you would draw a star, and then put the center cap on, and install the plastic lug covers. Use your socket just to tighten the lug covers up until they click. Very important, pump your brakes and then do a trial stop from 5 miles an hour before you road test your vehicle.
We hope this helps you out. Brought to you by www.1AAuto.com, your source for quality replacement parts and the best service on the internet. Please feel free to call us Toll Free, 888-844-3393. We're the company that's here for you on the internet, and in person.
They were the right parts for my vehicle and at a good price.
First time customer. All of the order arrived on time and everything fit and worked as intended.
Worked Great
Purchased for my 2000 Chevy S10 ex cab 4.3 V6. Arrived packaged well. Everything fit just as OEM. Very good quality parts from the looks although I only have about 40 miles on everything so far they are working great!
Recently I purchased front rotors pads and wheel bearing kits along with rear brake shoes from A-1auto, I received the parts in a timely manner and the parts were a perfect fit. It is important to me as a diyer that the parts fit and they were as good as oem. I will continue to shop with A-Auto for all my needs. Thank you Robert Herndon
First off the package came on time as scheduled. Everything came in one big box (Excellent packaging) and installment is straight forward, just refer to there YouTube link on the web site. First time changing these type of rotors were the studs and the bearings all come out but, there thing works smooth no more grinding noises ??.
The items were an exact fit no modification had to be done also arrived in 2 days free shipping
I've had the new rotors, pads, and bearings installed for about 2 weeks now. Great stopping power, and very quiet when braking. I would definitely recommend this brake kit. Thanks again 1aauto.
Got the order on time and was not disappointed. The brakes and rotors were both good quality and easy to install. I would definitely recommended them and 1aauto's service.
Perfect fit, great price, I like that the bearing races were already installed in the hub/rotor assembly. Installation was straight forward, no glitches, brakes stop real nice and are super quiet. Thanks, I would highly recommend this kit to anyone looking to replace the front brakes. I will for sure buy from 1A-Auto again.
BKA11550
These rotors are not coated.
The bearing races are already installed in the hubs. You have two bearings and one seal for each side. Not sure what part numbers they are.
The anti-rattle clips for the brake pads are included.
