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TRQ drivetrain kits are manufactured using premium raw materials to restore original performance. Each TRQ drivetrain component is designed to be a direct, maintenance-free replacement to the stock unit. To extend the service life of your drivetrain, TRQ recommends replacing wheel hubs, bearings, and constant velocity (CV) drive axles at the same time to ensure even wear of components and improved ride comfort. All products are fit and road-tested in our Massachusetts R&D facility to ensure we deliver on our promise of Trusted Reliable Quality.
CV axles are designed to transmit the power from your vehicle's drivetrain to the wheels while being able to flex and pivot to the demands of the steering and suspension systems. If your vehicle is making clicking noises at lower speeds or when making turns, it may be time to replace your CV axles with our 100% brand new assemblies.
Our steering and suspension components are pre-greased and sealed for long life and do not require the extra maintenance typically required by greaseable versions.
Attention California Customers:
WARNING: This product can expose you to chemicals including Lead and Lead Compounds, which are known to the State of California to cause cancer, and birth defects or other reproductive harm. For more information, go to www.P65Warnings.ca.gov.
Lifetime Warranty
This item is backed by our limited lifetime warranty. In the event that this item should fail due to manufacturing defects during intended use, we will replace the part free of charge. This warranty covers the cost of the part only.
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Brought to you by 1AAuto.com, your source for quality replacement parts and the best service on the Internet. Hi, I'm Mike Green. I'm one of the owners of 1A Auto. I want to help you save time and money repairing and maintaining your vehicle. I'm going to use my 20-plus years experience restoring and repairing cars and trucks like this to show you the correct way to install parts from 1AAuto.com. The right parts, installed correctly--that's going to save you time and money. Thank you and enjoy the video.
This is part two. We're going to install the front hub on this 4-wheel drive S10. Same as Blazer, Jimmy, and Sonoma. Tools you're going to need are metric sockets, 10-19mm, plus some metric wrenches, jack and jack stands, a 35-mm socket for the hub nut, large screwdriver or pry bar, penetrating oil, a torque wrench and you might want to throw in a hammer and a rubber mallet, too. Here's the new 1A Auto hub versus the old one. See, leads all the same, has the same bracket, same end. Now it's going to mount the same. Everything's going to be all the same. Next step, take our old ring and put it onto the new hub. Now is as good a time as any to grease the lower ball joint, the tie rod end, and the upper ball joint. Technically it goes on here like that. Feed the harness through. The connector is going to be where that big gap is. We'll get this up in here, get everything somewhat lined up. Grab one of our bolts, make it one of the easy ones down here, put it through, work it in, get it going a little bit.
Now I'm going to speed it up. Now I'm going to work the other two bolts in. Then I'm going to use a ratchet and socket and tighten them up. Shifting the steering a little bit to get to them. You do want to try to tighten them up evenly. You don't want to just tighten one all the way up because you want to pull the hub into the steering knuckle pretty much evenly. So I'm just rotating around and tightening. After this, I'll set my torque wrench to 65 foot-pounds and torque them up. Now you tighten these up to about 65 foot-pounds. Now we're going to put the harness back in. Remember here, you've got a little 10-mm bolt there on that first clip and you got a 13-mm bolt and nut on that second clip and you have to clip it in together with the brake line. The hub harness goes in behind the brake line, so the bolt goes to the hub harness first then the brake line harness. Then it's opposite on the frame connector. The brake line goes onto the frame and then the hub harness goes on top of it. So tighten up that bolt, tighten up the frame and then... Tighten the frame, and then you can take the clip, put it onto the frame, connect them together. Once they're connected, pull your flap back down and you're all set.
Here I'm putting the rotor back on. I apologize for the poor camera work here, I didn't realize I wasn't shooting it very well. I'm putting the lug nut, just one on. Just to keep the rotor in place. Makes it easier to get the caliper on. I'm grabbing the caliper. I'm also not touching the disk or the brake pad surface. You want to try to keep them clean, keeps your brakes working better. If you do hit them, just use a little linseed oil or brake parts cleaner. Then I use the rubber mallet to persuade the caliper on there. Put the bolts in for the caliper. They should be torqued to 50 to 60 foot-pounds. The top, I didn't get a torque wrench on, so I used my well-calibrated arm and hand, as you'll see. After that, torque up the bottom one correctly. I'm going to tighten the hub nut up with an impact wrench. I'm going to watch in back here, as you can see, there's a little gap right here. This shiny ring. That will close up as I tighten and I'll just stop before that closes all the way because I want to tighten that with a torque wrench when the car is on the ground. I replaced my hub and those three bolts have been torqued. I put my brake back on, those bolts have been torqued. I reinstalled my line here. That's all tight. Now I need to put my wheel back on. I'm going to torque the lug nut to 90 foot-pounds. Now I'm going to torque the wheel lug nuts to 75 foot-pounds. Put my cap back on. Lug nut covers.
We hope this helps you out. Brought to you by www.1AAuto.com, your source for quality replacement parts and the best service on the Internet. Please feel free to call us toll-free, 888-844-3393. We're the company that's here for you on the Internet and in person.
Tools used
Brought to you by 1AAuto.com-- your source for quality replacement parts and the best service on the internet.
Hi, I'm Mike Green. I'm one of the owners of 1AAuto. I want to help you save time and money repairing and maintaining your vehicle. I'm going to use my 20+ years experience restoring and repairing cars and trucks like this to show you the correct way to consult parts from 1AAuto.com. The right parts installed correctly, that's going to save you time and money. Thank you and enjoy the video.
In this video we'll be showing you how to replace a front hub on this four wheel S10 Truck, same as any 97 to present S10 or Blazer. Tools you'll need are metric sockets, 10mm-19mm, 18mm and 13mm wrenches, Jack and Jack Stands, 35mm Socket for the Hub Nut, Large Screwdriver or a Pry bar, some Penetrating Oil and a Torque wrench to put it back together.
Okay so first, if you're using hand tools, you're going to want to loosen your Log Nuts up and that's going to do with a 19mm wrench and you want to do this on the ground obviously because that way the wheels won't be moving. Then the other thing you're going to want to do is you're going to want to use your 34mm socket, 35mm actually. Now I'm going to raise the car up and secure it. Okay, so I've raised the wheel. I'm working on up off the ground. By putting the jack under there and then actually I have jack stand under the frame here and that's what's really going to hold the weight. Now I'm going to remove the tire. Now I could remove the center hub nut and the washer. Okay, now I'm going to remove my brake caliper by removing this bolt here and then down on the backside, this bolt here. Okay, they're 18mm bolts.
Okay now I'm going to use my wrench just pry the caliper right off then rest it right up here. Take the disc off. Now I'm going to remove the clips for the hub harness here and here. Okay and then the harness goes right up in here. Okay, and I just disconnected it. Then you can just use a screwdriver. I can't really. That's why you need a screwdriver to pry it up out of the frame there. Okay. Here's how I'm just coating those two little nuts with penetrating oil and then I'm going to take the small one off. Actually, I'm going to finish prying that clip up and out and now I'm going to take the small one off with a 10mm wrench. Okay and here this next shot, I'm actually showing you how to get the wrench up in behind there to hold that bolt. That's where you want to place the wrench in order to hold the bolt on the other side and not here. I'm just removing that clip bolt.
Okay and here I'm just finishing up taking out that bolt. Actually like to cut up the bolt and the nut back into the control arm just for safe keeping so that I know where they are. Here is the last clip that's on the frame. This is a 13mm bolt and so I'm unbolting from the frame here. Now I just pull in harness out and free and I'm going to pull the clips off the harness so I can put them on to the new hub harness when I'm ready to install it. Now you want to remove your hub just three bolts, one in the back, one in the middle and the top and then one over here in the front.
These are 18mm bolts. Okay so front and rear ones you can get to with an impact wrench or a regular wrench. The top one is a little more difficult. You have to use a hand wrench and it helps if you swivel the steering that helps you get to the bolts that much easier. Then as you can see as I'm taking them out, you can pry with a pry bar or a large screwdriver. Replaces one right back here. There's a little place that in the flange that you can get a screwdriver into and pry against the steering knuckle and then also in behind right where the steering knuckle is here on in the front and you can see me get it apart now. I'm just shaking it. You want to be careful not to bend that backend plate too much. Basically I lead that top bolt in. It's very loose but it's still in there. Now you can see the hub comes right out and hold the harness out and away from the backend plate and your hub is out.
There's this little rubber o-ring that you want to make sure it goes back on correctly. Okay so here's the new one with the hubs off versus the old one. See the leads are all the same, has the same bracket, same end. It's going to mount the same. Everything's going to be all the same. Okay so ends the removing of the hub. Reinstalling is pretty easy. It's a reverse of procedure and obviously you need to use a torque wrench, torque the small bolts to 65 foot-pounds and the hub nut to 95 foot-pounds as well as your lug nuts, it's 75 foot-pounds. We do have this detailed in another video. That is a reply to this video. Also, you can just search for S10 hub and find the installation video.
We hope this helps you out. Brought to you by www.1AAuto.com-- your source for quality replacement parts and the best service on the internet. Please feel free to call us toll free 888-844-3393. We're the company that's here for you on the internet and in person.
BHA52940
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These are specific to the ZR2 model Blazers. Please view our other listings for the appropriate replacement parts.
Our parts are made to OE spec, so as long as you purchase based on your vehicle and specific fit details they will match factory exactly.
Actual Measurements are not listed or available. Our parts are exact replacements for your vehicle's OEM parts.
As long as your year, make, and model match up with our listing, these parts will directly fit and function like the originals.
Are you referring to an ABS tone ring? If so then no, the hubs do not have a tone ring.
Hello, The axles are not the same length in this kit.
