★★★★★
May 26, 2026
Door handle broke within a day of installing.
Replaces
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TRQ is a trusted brand dedicated to making every repair a success story by combining premium parts with easy installation. Each TRQ part is engineered by a team of automotive experts to meet or exceed OEM standards, delivering enhanced performance and maximum longevity. With rigorous in-house testing, the brand ensures superior fit and function across every product line. TRQ also provides customers with best-in-class, step-by-step installation videos—so you can complete repairs with confidence, whether you're a first-time DIYer or an industry professional.
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Hi, I'm Mike from 1A Auto. I hope this how-to video helps you out, and next time you need parts for your vehicle, think of 1AAuto.com. Thanks!
In this video, we're going to show you how to replace the rear outside door handles on this 2007 Denali. It's the same process for any 2007 to 2013 Yukon Denali, as well as the SLT, and Tahoe LTZ. It's also probably the same procedure or a similar procedure for rear doors on the Yukon XL, Suburban, as well as the four-door Sierra and Silverados with the LTZ Denali or SLT trims.
Items you'll need include handles from 1AAuto.com, small and regular flat blade screwdrivers, 10mm socket with ratchet and extension, and a door panel clip tool or putty knife.
Disconnect the battery. You want to open up the driver's door, pull the hood release lever, hit the safety hatch, move it to the right, and then lift the hood up, and the battery is near the rear of the engine compartment on the passenger side. There's a 10mm nut on top of the negative battery cable. Loosen that 10mm nut and pull the battery cable up and off, and then put it to the side so it won't contact the terminal again.
Open up either rear door. The procedure is the same for both. You need a small flat blade screwdriver, and you'll pry out that square clip, pry out this panel under here, and I am just using one hand, so it does drop to the ground, one hand holding the camera, one hand working the screwdriver. Then there is also a little panel underneath here that you pry out. Once you have that panel out, it'll expose a 10mm bolt there, and then there's another 10mm bolt to remove down here.
Use a small screwdriver and pull up on the walk knob and pry that clip out, and it comes up and off. I'll fast-forward here as I remove those two 10mm bolts. Use a plastic trim tool or a rag and a flat blade screwdriver, and pry up on the switch panel. You kind of pry up in the center and then you pull it up and it locks. The clips are on the front and the rear. Once you get the center up, you just kind of work it into the front, and then work it into the rear. It comes up and off and then the harness just has a tab on it. You press the tab and unplug it.
Use a rag to protect your paint and a door panel clip tool, or you could use a putty knife, but you work either the tool or the knife in underneath the clip. You'll basically feel that you slide it through and you can feel the plastic clips, and then you pull out and release the clips, and I usually do this for two or three of the clips on the back side. Then you can work your hand underneath and release the rest of the clips.
Once the clips are released, you pull the panel up and off of the window ledge clip. If your door panel has never been off before, the water shield, the white water shield you can see is a black clip holding it to the door panel. There's probably three or four of these little black clips. You can see how you try to use the clip tool or a screwdriver to pry the clip out. Eventually, I just end up grabbing ahold of the clip and the water shield at the same time and pull them out. Again, you'll have to do this probably three or four times if your door panel has never been off before.
We'll need to undo the door handle cable clip. There's two little clips that hold the cable in. I'm just prying with a small screwdriver to release those clips. Here's a better shot of them as they come out. You pull it out and up out of the handle, and then the door panel comes right off. I do find one more of the clips that clip the water shield to the door panel and release it. Carefully pull the water shield back and release the adhesive and expose the inside of the back part of the door. You want to unclip the door lock rod, see the yellow clip right there, reach up with your hand, try and get a good shot here, and you just pull on the outside edge of that clip and release it and pull the rod out.
You want to remove this round rubber grommet. You push from the back side and pull it off, and then there is a bolt up in there as well as another bolt that holds the door panel. 10mm socket, ratchet, and extension, and go right in through and undo those two bolts. Now the handles slide forward and out. You'll want to remove the latch rod from the old handle. Just kind of twist it and pull it up and out. Then install it in to your new handle. Install the new handle, just pull on the protector plastic back, put the rod down in, and then might need to pull the handle out a little bit as far as just the handle part out, but you can slide it up in there, and then you push it on to the door and slide it back to lock it in place.
Reach up and start the bolts in to the back of the handle. You can see it's easy enough to get your hands up in there, and you can even get them up into the back side, too. Start the bolt in and then tighten them up. Tighten them up nice and firm, don't overtighten them. You don't want to strip the thread. Reach in, put that latch rod back in place, and then lock the clip in place. Be sure your door is unlocked. You can test it out.
Install that rubber grommet and press the shield back up in place. To reinstall the door panel, get it close, put the ball of the cable into the door handle, then pull the cable around and clip it in. Move the panel close to the door, make sure that the harness comes up through, and then make sure that the door lock goes up through the hole there, and then you kind of lift the panel up and push the top on and set it down into that window ledge clip, and then you can kind of look in behind, make sure that the clips line up. Once you have everything lined up, then you can reset the clips.
Make sure that you pull the lock knob up and then put the lock trim on there. Set that, make sure you leave it unlocked, and then reinstall the two 10mm bolts that hold the panel in place. I'll fast forward as I do that. When you tighten these, tighten them up firm, you don't want to tighten them, though, and make sure you have the harness pulled up through, put the two trim pieces in place. The upper one, you want to put the rear end first and then snap the front end. It snaps in at the front first on me, so I have to pull it back out, and then put it in correctly. Again, the back towards the back goes in first, and then front snaps in, and then reconnect the harness and snap the switch panel down in place, and then do a little test.
Then reconnect your battery, and then you should be all good to go. Put the negative battery cable back on the post and 10mm socket, ratchet, and extension, then tighten it up.
Thanks for tuning in. We hope this video helped you out. Next time you need parts for your car, please visit 1AAuto.com. Also check out our other helpful how-to and diagnosis videos.
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Hi, I'm Mike from 1A Auto. We've been selling auto parts for over 30 years. We're dedicated to delivering quality auto parts, expert customer service, fast and free shipping, all backed by our 100% satisfaction guarantee. Visit us at 1AAuto.com, your trusted source for quality auto parts.
I'm just going to hit the dome lamp override switch to shut off dome lights, just so we don't run the battery down. Open up your door, and using small flat blade screwdriver or a small trim tool, remove a couple panels: one in behind your door handle—just twist lightly and pull that out; there's one right back in here, right in the middle—pull out and off; then the door lock knob, pull up on it lightly, and try and pry this center clip out at same time. Comes up and off. If you have good fingernails sometimes you can just pull up and off on that. You could also use a trim tool available on 1aauto.com. Put it underneath, pull straight up, make sure you pull up on the front. Somebody was not that careful on this one, and you can see they actually broke off the tab from the trim. Then you'll want to disconnect your power window switch, just a little tab here. Pull and disconnect. Then we'll remove three 10 millimeter bolts: one here and then two down underneath where your door pull is. 10 millimeter bolts, remove them with a 10 millimeter socket ratchet and extension. A lot of times these ones won't come all the way out, and that's okay. You can retrieve them when you get the door panel all the way off.
You'll want to use a trim tool. Once you get in there, you can see in behind there and see where the clips are. Got one here, roughly here and here. Pull out firmly, and work your way around. Then my bolts have popped out here, so I'll make sure I collect those. Once I'm sure I'm all the way around, lift up, and out. Then on here there's a couple of little tabs. I'm going to push the tab, pull out a little bit, twist it around, push the other tab. Push that through and out, and my door panel comes out. You can see there's actually clips on the padding here. It's still clipped on in a couple of spots. Just push those off.
Okay, we're going to remove the outer rear door handle on the Suburban. You could probably do it by just folding this vapor barrier down and getting in here, but we're going to pull it back so that we can make sure you can see it. To pull this vapor barrier off, it's got some butyl tape on here. Sometimes it'll peel off real easily. If it doesn't, I've got a razor blade here to help just cut it off a little bit. There you go. Put this aside so it doesn't get destroyed. Going to remove this rubber grommet with a plastic prying tool. Take our 10 millimeter socket. We remove this bolt that is holding on the door handle. I've got it loose. I'm going to try to take it out without dropping it inside the door panel. There we go.
Now we're going to remove the other bolt that is holding on the door handle. Inch in through here. All right, we've got this one loose. Oh, that one fell in. It landed on the door bar here. Before you take the door handle off, you've got to remove or unhook the clip that's on the actuator here. It's this yellow-ish, orange looking clip. Cut a little tab. Take a small, flat bladed screwdriver. Push open. It'll pop off. Now we can go to the outside of the door to remove the door handle. With the bolts and the door lock actuator rod removed, you're going to slide this handle forward. Then we're going to work it out of the door panel. It's going to come with the rod. That's how you remove the handle.
We're just going to clean this up a little bit before we install the handle back. Okay, so you take your actuator rod, you're going to feed it into the door opening. Do a little bit of maneuvering. Might have to open the handle because it'll move. Because it'll move this piece, it'll help you install it. There's some locating pins you're going to find. That's installed from the front. Now we need to put the bolts in and reconnect the actuator rod.
You need to reconnect the actuator rod because it's a little yellow clip. Kind of get it straight up and down. Press the rod in there, and then if you just sort of roll it up and over, it'll clip in. Kind of put a little bit of blue tape on this bolt to help hold it to the socket so I don't drop it. Go through this hole here. Sort of very gently thread this in. This is just a metal insert going into the plastic door handle. You don't want to over tighten these. You can break the door handle. Just as you feel them get tight. Install the second bolt. Just as it gets tight, stop because you don't want to break it. Reinstall the grommet. Now that we're all set working inside the door, we can reinstall the water vapor barrier. Just going to feed the wires through. Sort of find the general area as where it was. The butyl tape on there was still pretty sticky, so just kind of push it back down.
You have these longer, larger basically kind of teeth that hook into the square holes down there. Preliminary line everything up. Just make sure your harness goes up and through, and then reconnect your door handle cable in. and pull it out, push it in.
Again, just make sure that that harness is up through. You want this groove to go into the channel here, so lift up. Lift up, push down, and make sure your door lock is up through, your harness is up through, and then you should be able to see it nice and close to the door. There's a large line of pin up here. Once everything is good it'll go in about that far away, and then you can just set all the pins. You just need a pair of pliers, reach in, bring your lock back up. Put your three 10 millimeter bolts back in. One here, and then these two, and load into your socket. If you put some tape or painters tape on it might help hold them in place. I'll just put those in place. Reconnect the switch, feed the harness down in, and make sure you put this in correctly. Then your three pieces of trim, the one in behind the door handle, snap it in place. This one can just go down in place. This one make sure that the little tab is out. Put it down on, lock into place. That's all set.
Thanks for watching. Visit us at 1AAuto.com for quality auto parts, fast and free shipping, and the best customer service in the industry.
DHA48686
Door handle broke within a day of installing.
The handle was exactly as described. The installation went very well. The video was very good quality and really helped.
Installed easy enough and should do the trick, but I am unimpressed with how closely it matches the original. Larger gaps, gasket doesn't sit tight, all chrome instead of black on the interior of the pull. I think I'll buy the AC Delco one and toss this one. Probably good enough for most people, but I'm picky!
Cheaper than the OEM I bought for the front door but feels a lot stronger than the Chinese store, which only lasted a couple of years at max!
Exactly as described. Installing was quick with 1A auto video
handle works but poor quality in both overall mold of handle and function. i had to bend the metal lever inside to match the oem lever. the lever was straight vs having a 90 bend. it's like the TRQ factory forgot a step in the manufacturing process.
This door handle was beefier, twice as thick on the inner rod connection that broke on the original. It arrived fast and fit great. It had GM stamped on the back. Now, on the install, you can find a video from 1A. I unsnapped everything on the inner door skin, but there was still one tiny Phillips screw in the upper center area that I am certain is not necessary. I also suggest you use a magnetic socket or some tape to keep from dropping the two bolts down in the door during installation. It may be easiest to snap the metal rod into the door handle from the outside of the door before fully mounting the handle. And as mentioned by others, slide the handle back, to get door sheet metal into a slot in the handle, before installing bolts.
Product fit and functioned as intended. Fast and easy installation. Took a few adjustments to the latch rod, but otherwise, works like the factory handle.
Great handle and easy to install with the 1A Auto online video. Without the experts at 1A Auto doing a step by step video I never would have attempted to replace it myself. Thanks 1A!
Fantastic product. Super easy install and the 1A Auto YouTube video walked me through it beginning to end. Definitely coming back for the next issue that pops up. Thank you.
