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Tools used
So you got a new intake manifold, and you're looking at it comparing it to the old one. And you notice it looks significantly different than the original one.
The reason for this is this intake is stronger. There is more material here. It is strengthened in areas where the original would lack and prevent future problems. In this area right here, there's more reinforcement to prevent warping. One of the major differences you might notice is the MAP sensor location. So on this newer intake does not have the MAP sensor located right here. You're actually going to mount it to the back right here. So with the old one, there's some clips that hold the MAP sensor on. Just take that out. Take the MAP sensor, slide it in position right there, just like that. In the hardware kit there's gonna be a screw with a washer, 10-millimeter socket, and just tighten this down and just snug it. And that's gonna prevent the MAP sensor from coming out.
Now for our vehicle, we have a hydraulic brake booster, but if you had a vacuum-actuated brake booster, and you're gonna have a hose that hooks up, you're gonna take this plug off, just squeeze that clamp, slide that off, put that hose right there. Now there's a vacuum port right here. If you don't need that, if you're not using that on your vehicle, which this vehicle doesn't use that, then you just leave that cap on there, and that'll be fine. Now the PCV hose that goes to the driver side valve cover, it's gonna go right here where this hose is. So you can take this off right here. Now that's not gonna attach right there, you have to take this rubber piece off of this hose. You can use a pick tool to get underneath here, just try to separate this, twist it, and slide that off. And then If you need to pull this hose up and secure that right there, and then push this back in position, that's gonna work just like that. Now I'm gonna move the purge solenoid over, just use an 8-millimeter socket. Take this out and slide that out. Now that's gonna go in the same location right here. It's just twisted a little bit sideways, and you're gonna take one of these threaded screws that comes with the kit and get that started. And snug that down. You just wanna tighten this down to about 5 newton meters. And this hose has the fitting that goes towards the back of the vehicle. Just take this hose off right here. This connects to the passenger side valve cover. Slide that off. And then there's a little cap right here, take that one off. And that hose goes right there.
From underneath the intake, you can notice that the intake gaskets themselves actually look different from the OEM ones. So when you're actually cleaning the head surface, you want to make sure you clean everything when you're putting these on, not just the area where the intake sits. And then there's bolts. There should be eight bolts with nuts installed when you get this. You're gonna have to take these nuts off. So I'm going to use a 10-millimeter wrench and a 10-millimeter socket. Take the nut off, you can discard the nut. You are gonna need to hang on to these bolts because you'll use this to install the intake. Do the same for the other ones. You'll notice on the old intake that there is these foam pieces. Those are not required on the new intake.
At this point, the intake's ready to be installed. If you have that vacuum booster, you can attach that hose. And then as you slide it into the area, you're gonna wanna plug that MAP sensor in. There's the connector for it, just move it back a little more, just make sure these wires are out of the way. Now I can slide this connector in the back. With the intake in this position it's hard to see, you're just gonna have to feel for that MAP sensor and lock it in place. At this point, we can take the studs for the throttle body and install these. These come with the kit. And snug these down. You'll use a E6 socket.
Now you can take the throttle body and slide it in position. It might be easier to hook the hose up before you tighten this down. Hook the other coolant hose up. And move the hose clamps in position. At this point, I can disconnect these hose pinchers, and you can use the original throttle body nuts. Then we can torque these nuts to 89-inch-pounds. Now we can take these intake manifold bolts, eight of these you took out of the manifold and two of them were in the kit. Get these all lined up. When we're tightening down the intake bolts, there is a sequence that you have to tighten these bolts in and you have to tighten the first pass 44-inch-pounds, make sure you're on inch-pounds, not foot-pounds. And then the second sequence you are gonna tighten those down to 88-inch-pounds. At this point, I can slide the EVAP pipe back in position, slide it down here, connect it in the back there, lock it in place, and then connect it up front, lock that down to the purge valve. We have this conduit that comes with the kit. There's no slice down this conduit, so we're just gonna take a utility knife and just slice down the middle of it. Just be careful when you're doing this. Just like that. And because this EVAP hose could potentially rub on the intake right there, I'm gonna take this conduit and she's going to go over it just like this. And that's just gonna prevent anything from rubbing through. And that should be good. Just take this connector before it falls down there. This goes to the knock sensors and just slide it in position right here.
The kit comes with new O-rings for the injectors. If you don't take the injectors off of the fuel rail, you could replace just the bottom O-rings. How you do that is just take a peek, just slide underneath the O-ring, and just walk it off. Take the new O-ring and just slide it over. You can do the same with the others. And then for the top, it's the same procedure. And before we slide the fuel rail back in, just take a little bit of motor oil and just give the O-rings a nice coat. It's just gonna make it easier to install the fuel rail. Now you can take some of the new screws from the hardware and get those started. And tighten those bolts down. Now take the fuel line, reconnect it. You can take this retainer that goes on here and slide that in position, and take this hose that goes to the PCV right there on the valve cover. And with all that hooked up we can start plugging in the injectors. Plug in the injector, and then as you plug them in, you're gonna push down on the locks. Sometimes the locks come out. So lock it in and then push down on the lock. Now attach this hose to this valve cover and we can connect the throttle body connector, lock it in place, push down on the lock. Now take one of these studs and slide this in position. Tighten this down. Just snug it down. You can use a E6 socket. Now take the wiring harness and just slide this bracket over. You can pull this pipe up a little bit and then put that pipe down. Make sure that lines up good. Now take the old nut and install that and tighten it down. Snug it down. That's good. Now plug this connector in, that goes for the knock sensors, lock it in place. Make sure these wires are good like that. Take this bracket and slide it in position. We'll take some of the hardware and line it up. And just snug these down. Just make sure you don't squish the wires. Those are good. And plug the connector in for the purge valve. Take the snorkel and line it up. And take the engine cover, slide it in position. Get the bolt started, snug it down.
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Tools used
Brought to you by 1AAuto.com, your source for quality replacement parts and the best service on the Internet.
Hi, I'm Don from 1A Auto. I hope this how-to-video helps you out, and the next time you need a part for your vehicle, think of 1AAuto.com. Thanks.
In this video, we're going to show you how to replace the intake manifold on this 2002 Chevy Suburban, it has a 5.3 liter GM V8. The process is basically the same on any truck with the 5.3 liter V8.The items you'll need for this are a new intake manifold from 1AAuto.com, a flat blade screwdriver, an 8mm and 10mm socket and ratchet with an extension, an E6 inverted Torx bit, fuel line disconnect tool (in this case it's a 3/8 inch), pliers, a vacuum, penetrating fluid, and a torque wrench.
In this video, we're going to show you how to replace a knock sensor on this 2002 Chevy Suburban with the 5.3 Liter engine, and it's the same part and similar process on these Suburbans from 2000 to 2005. The items you'll need are a new knock sensor from 1AAuto.com, a flat blade screwdriver, an 8, 10, and 22mm socket and ratchet with an extension, a fuel line disconnect tool (in this case a 3/8 inch), pliers, a vacuum, penetrating fluid, and a torque wrench.
Start off by removing the 8mm bolt that holds on your engine cover. That pulls free. Then, using a flat blade screwdriver, just loosen up this hose clamp right here and this hose clamp right over here. Now, you can pull the hose free. Pull it free from this side, then just lift it up and pry out the hose from the intake hose. Then it's free. Now, remove these three 8mm bolts right here. We'll fast forward as Don does this. Then remove these three 8mm bolts right here.
Next, disconnect these two harnesses. To do that, you just pull up on the tab and pull them free. Then pry this hose right here free, and then remove these three 10mm nuts. Lift up this bracket and pull it aside, and then remove this 8mm bolt right here, and then just pull that bracket aside, and then disconnect this hose clamp, and do the same thing back here with this one. You want to make sure you disconnect that harness as well and pull that aside. Do the same thing back here, until this set of harnesses loosens up. Then just remove this 10mm nut right here, and then you can just pull that set of harnesses aside. Then pull up the clip on the harness for your fuel injector, then push the tab on the harness and disconnect it, and repeat the process for the other seven.
Now, just loosen up this fuel line cap, and using a flat blade screwdriver and a rag, you want to just put the rag over it and push the tab on the fuel bleeder. It should spray out just a little bit, and it'll release the pressure. Then replace the cap and come over here and just pry off this clip. Then, using a fuel line separator tool, you just want to push that all the way in. For this one, it's a 3/8 inch. Then, once that's pushed all the way in, you can pull the fuel line free, and then it just pulls off. You put it on the fuel line below it and repeat the same process. Take a pair of pliers and push the teeth together on this hose clamp. Slide it down the hose, and then pull the hose free. Then just remove this series of 10mm bolts along each side of your intake manifold. You can kind of see them, they're down below the fuel rail there. We'll just fast forward as Don removes these.
Lift your intake manifold up and out. You will have to maneuver a lot of harnesses and wires and everything but you just want to get this out as far as you can get it to go, which at this point should be right about here. Once you get to this point, take your EGR and just feed it through the harnesses and out. Once you feed it through, you can just lift your intake manifold up and out. On the left is the new intake manifold from 1A Auto, on the right is the old one. You can see they're identical and they're going to fit exactly the same.
Transfer over this hose by just prying it free and then push it into place on your new intake manifold. Then, pull up your MAP sensor, use a flat blade screwdriver to pry it up and then just push it into place right here. Using one of these self-threading screws that comes with the new manifold, tighten the bolt to hold the MAP sensor in place. Push the teeth together on this clamp and slide it off so you can pull that cap free. Then, push the teeth together on this clamp and slide it back and then pry the hose free, get that clamp and pull it free. Slide the hose clamp onto the hose and then push the hose back into place. Just push in the teeth, slide the hose all the way back and release it. Now, twist in these studs into your new intake manifold and tighten them up with an E6 inverted Torx bit. Now, remove these 8mm bolts holding on the fuel rails. Now, just pry the fuel rails up and off. Then just pry this hose free, and your fuel rods will lift up and off. Pry off the O-rings on the end of each of your fuel injectors. We'll just fast forward as Don does this. Wipe down each of your fuel injectors with a rag and replace the O-rings with your new O-rings. We'll fast forward as Don does this. Spray penetrating oil in each of your fuel injector holes and line up your fuel rail and push the injectors down into place. We'll fast forward as Don replaces those two 8mm bolts that hold the rail into place. Using pliers, just remove this cap and then push this hose into place from your fuel rail. It's a good idea to just vacuum off the top of your engine block. On the bottom of your new intake manifold just remove these 10mm nuts. We'll just fast forward as Don does the rest of these.
Set your intake manifold back down into place, then just feed this hose down and pull it out through the other side. Now, disconnect your EGR by just pulling out on the clip with a flat blade screwdriver and just pulling the hose free. Then feed that hose through the side of your intake manifold. Just maneuver it down and into place. We're going to fast forward as Don continues to do this. You just have to move the cables and wires around until you can finally get it to set down, it does take a second but it will go down. Now reconnect this hose. Just using pliers, slide that hose clamp back into place, and then reconnect this bracket. You want to just line this up and push it back onto those studs. Then just replace those nuts. Take the EGR valve and push it back down into place, and replace the bolt that holds it there, and then reconnect that hose. Reconnect your other hose to the top of your intake manifold, replace this bracket and replace the bolts that hold it into place, reconnect this hose over here, and then replace this bracket and the bolts that hold it into place and just tighten those up. Then just replace each of these long 10mm bolts that line the side of your intake manifold, and then just tighten each of those up. You can see that we use a variety of different extensions just to help get there. You can use a longer one for these ones, then, as you get further back, you may need to use a shorter one. It does help to have a flashlight, too. Just make sure you reconnect your fuel lines, and then put those clips back into place to lock them.
Okay, you want to torque the manifold bolts. Start in the middle and go across, then work your way around the manifold in a counter-clockwise pattern. You want to tighten them on the first pass to 44 inch pounds, then 89 inch pounds. Now, just reconnect each of your fuel injectors. You just want to push the harness in and replace that clip and push it down into place. We'll fast forward as Don does this to the other fuel injectors. Lower the intake hose back down into place. You just push it back and then tighten up those two hose clamps. Double check that all your harnesses are connected and all the hoses are connected, and then replace your engine cover. Once you get it lined up, just replace that bolt and tighten it up. Then you're all set.
We hope this video helps you out. Brought to you by 1AAuto.com, your source for quality replacement parts and the best service on the Internet. Please feel free to call us toll-free, 888-844-3393. We're the company that's here for you on the Internet and in person.
Tools used
So you got a new intake manifold, and you're looking at it comparing it to the old one. And you notice it looks significantly different than the original one.
The reason for this is this intake is stronger. There is more material here. It is strengthened in areas where the original would lack and prevent future problems. In this area right here, there's more reinforcement to prevent warping. One of the major differences you might notice is the MAP sensor location. So on this newer intake does not have the MAP sensor located right here. You're actually going to mount it to the back right here. So with the old one, there's some clips that hold the MAP sensor on. Just take that out. Take the MAP sensor, slide it in position right there, just like that. In the hardware kit there's gonna be a screw with a washer, 10-millimeter socket, and just tighten this down and just snug it. And that's gonna prevent the MAP sensor from coming out.
Now for our vehicle, we have a hydraulic brake booster, but if you had a vacuum-actuated brake booster, and you're gonna have a hose that hooks up, you're gonna take this plug off, just squeeze that clamp, slide that off, put that hose right there. Now there's a vacuum port right here. If you don't need that, if you're not using that on your vehicle, which this vehicle doesn't use that, then you just leave that cap on there, and that'll be fine. Now the PCV hose that goes to the driver side valve cover, it's gonna go right here where this hose is. So you can take this off right here. Now that's not gonna attach right there, you have to take this rubber piece off of this hose. You can use a pick tool to get underneath here, just try to separate this, twist it, and slide that off. And then If you need to pull this hose up and secure that right there, and then push this back in position, that's gonna work just like that. Now I'm gonna move the purge solenoid over, just use an 8-millimeter socket. Take this out and slide that out. Now that's gonna go in the same location right here. It's just twisted a little bit sideways, and you're gonna take one of these threaded screws that comes with the kit and get that started. And snug that down. You just wanna tighten this down to about 5 newton meters. And this hose has the fitting that goes towards the back of the vehicle. Just take this hose off right here. This connects to the passenger side valve cover. Slide that off. And then there's a little cap right here, take that one off. And that hose goes right there.
From underneath the intake, you can notice that the intake gaskets themselves actually look different from the OEM ones. So when you're actually cleaning the head surface, you want to make sure you clean everything when you're putting these on, not just the area where the intake sits. And then there's bolts. There should be eight bolts with nuts installed when you get this. You're gonna have to take these nuts off. So I'm going to use a 10-millimeter wrench and a 10-millimeter socket. Take the nut off, you can discard the nut. You are gonna need to hang on to these bolts because you'll use this to install the intake. Do the same for the other ones. You'll notice on the old intake that there is these foam pieces. Those are not required on the new intake.
At this point, the intake's ready to be installed. If you have that vacuum booster, you can attach that hose. And then as you slide it into the area, you're gonna wanna plug that MAP sensor in. There's the connector for it, just move it back a little more, just make sure these wires are out of the way. Now I can slide this connector in the back. With the intake in this position it's hard to see, you're just gonna have to feel for that MAP sensor and lock it in place. At this point, we can take the studs for the throttle body and install these. These come with the kit. And snug these down. You'll use a E6 socket.
Now you can take the throttle body and slide it in position. It might be easier to hook the hose up before you tighten this down. Hook the other coolant hose up. And move the hose clamps in position. At this point, I can disconnect these hose pinchers, and you can use the original throttle body nuts. Then we can torque these nuts to 89-inch-pounds. Now we can take these intake manifold bolts, eight of these you took out of the manifold and two of them were in the kit. Get these all lined up. When we're tightening down the intake bolts, there is a sequence that you have to tighten these bolts in and you have to tighten the first pass 44-inch-pounds, make sure you're on inch-pounds, not foot-pounds. And then the second sequence you are gonna tighten those down to 88-inch-pounds. At this point, I can slide the EVAP pipe back in position, slide it down here, connect it in the back there, lock it in place, and then connect it up front, lock that down to the purge valve. We have this conduit that comes with the kit. There's no slice down this conduit, so we're just gonna take a utility knife and just slice down the middle of it. Just be careful when you're doing this. Just like that. And because this EVAP hose could potentially rub on the intake right there, I'm gonna take this conduit and she's going to go over it just like this. And that's just gonna prevent anything from rubbing through. And that should be good. Just take this connector before it falls down there. This goes to the knock sensors and just slide it in position right here.
The kit comes with new O-rings for the injectors. If you don't take the injectors off of the fuel rail, you could replace just the bottom O-rings. How you do that is just take a peek, just slide underneath the O-ring, and just walk it off. Take the new O-ring and just slide it over. You can do the same with the others. And then for the top, it's the same procedure. And before we slide the fuel rail back in, just take a little bit of motor oil and just give the O-rings a nice coat. It's just gonna make it easier to install the fuel rail. Now you can take some of the new screws from the hardware and get those started. And tighten those bolts down. Now take the fuel line, reconnect it. You can take this retainer that goes on here and slide that in position, and take this hose that goes to the PCV right there on the valve cover. And with all that hooked up we can start plugging in the injectors. Plug in the injector, and then as you plug them in, you're gonna push down on the locks. Sometimes the locks come out. So lock it in and then push down on the lock. Now attach this hose to this valve cover and we can connect the throttle body connector, lock it in place, push down on the lock. Now take one of these studs and slide this in position. Tighten this down. Just snug it down. You can use a E6 socket. Now take the wiring harness and just slide this bracket over. You can pull this pipe up a little bit and then put that pipe down. Make sure that lines up good. Now take the old nut and install that and tighten it down. Snug it down. That's good. Now plug this connector in, that goes for the knock sensors, lock it in place. Make sure these wires are good like that. Take this bracket and slide it in position. We'll take some of the hardware and line it up. And just snug these down. Just make sure you don't squish the wires. Those are good. And plug the connector in for the purge valve. Take the snorkel and line it up. And take the engine cover, slide it in position. Get the bolt started, snug it down.
Thanks for watching. Visit 1aauto.com for quality auto parts shipped to your door. The place for DIY auto repair. And if you enjoy this video, please click the subscribe button.
