Replaces
Part Details
TRQ brake kits are designed to restore your brake system to like-new performance. TRQ brake pads are positive molded, thermal scorched, chamfered, and utilize a multi-layer shim for enhanced performance and service life. TRQ G-coated rotors have long-lasting rust prevention, perfect for wheels with large openings that expose the rotor and rotor hat during daily drives. All products are fit and road-tested in our Massachusetts R&D facility to ensure we deliver on our promise of Trusted Reliable Quality.
Product Features
Premium Electrostatic Coated Brake Rotor Features and Benefits
Item Condition:
New
Attention California Customers:
WARNING: This product can expose you to chemicals including Lead and Lead Compounds, which are known to the State of California to cause cancer, and birth defects or other reproductive harm. For more information, go to www.P65Warnings.ca.gov.
Lifetime Warranty
This item is backed by our limited lifetime warranty. In the event that this item should fail due to manufacturing defects during intended use, we will replace the part free of charge. This warranty covers the cost of the part only.
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Brought to you by 1AAuto.com, your source for quality replacement parts and the best service on the Internet.
Hi, I'm Mike from 1A Auto. I hope this how-to video helps you out, and next time you need parts for your vehicle, think of 1AAuto.com. Thanks.
In this video, we're going to show you how to service the front brakes on this 2011 Chevy Silverado. It's the same procedure for this truck from 2007 to 2013 Chevy Silverado as well as the GMC Sierra. This is the 1500. We're going to show you on the right-hand or passenger side. The left-hand or driver side is the same, and we do always recommend that you service your brakes in pairs. You'll need new brake rotors and pads from 1AAuto.com, jack and jack stands, 18mm to 22mm sockets and ratchet, breaker bar or pipe for some extra leverage since a couple of those bolts are pretty tight, and a T30 Torx bit and driver. If you have some rust you may need a couple of M10 bolts to help you get the disc or the rotor off. You'll also need a wire brush, brake or white grease, and a large C-clamp.
Remove the center cap just by prying with a screwdriver. If you don't have the benefit of air tools, loosen the lug nuts with the vehicle on the ground, then raise and secure the vehicle and then remove the lug nuts the rest of the way. Remove the wheel and tire. They are 22mm lug nuts.
By hand or using a steering wheel, turn so you can access the back of the caliper. Now check for any abnormal wear. Make sure that the inside and outside pads are warn about the same amount. Also on the rotor, make sure there are no deep grooves or uneven wear. This can indicate other problems with your brake system.
There are two 19mm bolts that hold the caliper on: up there and there. We'll fast-forward as we use a 19mm socket and ratchet to remove those bolts. Once you have your bolts off, just put the caliper up an out of the way. Use a screwdriver and pry the brake pads out. You can see the outer one comes out pretty easily. We have a little trouble with the inner one. We actually switched to a larger screwdriver, and you can see after a little more force it comes out.
Now this brake pad sticking in there like that indicates there's a problem, and you want to do some cleanup and some lubrication to prevent this. Remove the little stainless steel slides from the caliper bracket. There are two 18mm bolts that hold the caliper bracket to the steering knuckle: there and there. You can see here, we give it a try with just the socket and ratchet, but then we use a pipe for some extra leverage and loosen up that bottom one. Then we'll loosen up the top one, remove the bolts, and remove that caliper bracket. There's a T30 Torx screw that holds the rotor to the hub, and we're just using a T30 Torx bit with the ratchet to remove that.
Then, on this truck, the rotor actually pulls off quite easily. If your rotor doesn't come off easily, make sure you douse the back side with penetrating oil as well as around the studs. Use two M10 bolts, and you can tighten them up through the threaded holes and press the rotor off. Here you see old brakes on the left and new brakes from 1A Auto on the right. They're exactly the same.
The inner pad does have a straight edge at the bottom. Put the new rotor in place and then we just use a lug nut to put it in place, kind of just holds things together while you assemble it. Use a wire brush and clean out the grooves where the brake pads go in the caliper brackets. The slide bolts should move in and out nice and easy. If they don't, you can pull them out, clean them, and grease them. Here we are reinstalling the stainless steel slides into the caliper bracket. Then we'll use a wire brush to clean those as well.
We'll continue to fast-forward as we put the caliper bracket in place and start the two bolts that hold it in place. Then tighten them up preliminarily. Use the Torx wrench to tighten those up to 100 foot-pounds. Use brake grease or white lithium grease, and then grease the ends of the pads where they'll sit in the caliper brackets. You can use mineral spirits, or brake cleaner, even gasoline, anything that evaporates quickly and clean up your brakes before putting the rest of them back together.
Put the rear pad in first. Put one side in first and then press the other side in. Make sure it's going fairly easily, and the same thing for the front pad. Now you need to reset the caliper piston. We've put the old inner brake pad back in there, and I'm just going to use a large C-clamp, and as we tighten it up you'll see the pistons go back into the caliper. Now put the caliper back in place. Sometimes those slide bolts will get stuck a little bit, so you have to push them in a little bit to get the caliper to slide down in correctly. Put the caliper in place and start the two bolts on that hold it. We're going to Torx these two bolts to 50 foot-pounds.
Fast-forward as we remove that lug nut and then put our wheel back on. Put the lug nuts back on by hand first, then tighten them up preliminarily, and with the vehicle back down on the ground, secure and tighten those lugs. Torque the lug nuts to about 110 foot-pounds using a crossing pattern. There's a groove on the wheel and there's another tongue in the cap that line it up. Put the cap back on.
Most importantly, pump your brakes up and do test stops from five and ten mph. Make sure everything is working correctly before you road test your vehicle.
We hope this video helps you out. Brought to you by www.1AAuto.com, your source for quality replacement parts and the best service on the Internet. Please feel free to call us toll-free, 888-844-3393. We're the company that's here for you on the Internet and in person.
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Hi, I'm Mike from 1AAuto. We've been selling auto parts for over 30 years! We're dedicated to delivering quality auto parts, expert customer service, fast and free shipping, all backed by our 100% satisfaction guarantee. Visit us at 1AAuto.com, your trusted source for quality auto parts.
All right, we're going to start doing the front brakes on this by loosening the lug nuts so we can take the wheel off. Want to loosen it while it's on the ground. Just using a 22mm socket and a breaker bar to get these loose. You don't have to take them all the way out. Just get them loose, because once they're loose, we're going to lift this up on a lift. You can support it on jack stands in your driveway. Of course once these are loose, it's a lot easier to get them off when the vehicle's up in the air.
All right. Now I have it up in the air, and these are already loose. Just going to use a hand ratchet. Once they get real loose, you can just use a socket. We're going to use a C clamp to compress the caliper while it's still attached here. There's two pistons. We’re going to have to just kind of gently compress one side and then flip to the other. As we can see, just slowly pressing it in.
This is going to make it easier when you go to reinstall the caliper to already have the pistons compressed. Get that side a little bit, then on the other side. Already see the upper piston has gone in. Keep working it back and forth. This makes it easier to pull the caliper off, and it's also going to make it easier when we go to reinstall it, because the new pads will be thicker. As your brakes wear, the piston moves out of the caliper to take up that space. When you go to put new brake pads in, it can be hard to put them in because the caliper piston has moved out to compensate the old worn pads. I think that's going to work for us. We're going to go ahead and start taking this caliper off.
We're going to remove this bottom bolt here and this top bolt here. These are bolted into the caliper slide pins. They also have a second hex head in here that you need to counter hold while you're loosening these, that way it doesn't spin. All right, actually I'm going to try removing it without counterholding this first. It might be stuck in there enough that it'll let me go. There we go. Now, it's loose. Sometimes, you can get away without holding that slide pin. Just be aware that if it does start to just spin, you're going to need to counter hold that. This was a 19mm, and that is also a 19mm. We're going to put that back in now that it's loose. Don't have to tighten it all the way. Just give it something so that the caliper won't swing on you, so that you can go up to the top upper one and break that free.
Now, I'm getting the lower one undone. The caliper's going to be loose, so you want to hold onto it. We're going to take it, we'll swing it up. I'm going to take a bungee cord here, loop it around, and just hang it just like that. It's out of your way. It's not stressing out the rubber brake hose, and it's not going to fall on the ground.
Use a small pry bar or a flat headed screwdriver. These are already pretty loose. You just want to pry them out, just like that. They'll come right out. Okay, now we're going to loosen these caliper bracket mounting bolts. They can be on there pretty tight. These are an 18mm. I like to use a dead blow, or a rubber mallet, to break them free. Otherwise, you just sometimes just can't do it by hand. We're going to hit it, and just try to break them free. Once they're free, you can use, again. Just a regular box ratchet or get a ratcheting one, and just spin them right out of there. Leave this one, get this one loose, whichever one you work on first. Get it loose, leave it in there, work on the next one. That way the caliper bracket doesn't spin on you. All right.
Now I've freed these up with the box wrench. I'm just going to use the 18mm socket and ratchet just to spin them out a little faster. To remove this rotor from the hub, you got to take out this Torx bit, which is T30. There might be two of these, but on this one, there's only one. If this rotor was rusted on here and stuck, take one of your lug nuts and just thread it down, so that when you finally get it free, it doesn't fall off. Tighten it down a little bit, but not too tight. You're going to spray some rust penetrant oil into here. Let it soak for a little bit, and take your rubber mallet. Just smack different sides of the rotor, and eventually, it will come free. Another way to free this rotor up if it's stuck, after you've sprayed penetrating oil in here, again, keep a lug nut on here, fairly loose, so it doesn't just fall off if it finally breaks free.
As opposed to trying to hit it with a rubber mallet, you could thread some screws in here. That's what these are for. They push again the hub, and you can evenly screw it in and it should back the rotor off. Then it should pull right off.
On this side, we've got the old rotor, the old brake pads, and we've got the new rotor and brake pads from 1AAuto.com. As you can see, the new ones have the backing plates riveted in, just like the old ones. They patch, this is the inside, and this is the inside of the new pad. These are the outside. Again, they have the shims riveted right to them. They're the same size. Same type of champers on them. Those should fit in the car nicely.
Before we put the new rotor on, just going to clean up some of the rust that's on here. This one's not too bad, but you can just take a wire brush and just knock off some of the heavier stuff. That way, the rotor slides on easily. You're going to notice, I'm going to put it on backwards, because I'm going to take some brake parts cleaner and just spray it down. Get some of that packaging oil off of it. Just spray in here a little bit too. Okay. Now I'm going to flip it around. When you go to install it, there's this hole in the hub here, the threaded hole, that's for that Torx bolt. You want to make sure you line it up with one of these countersunk holes, there's three of them on here.
Once it's lined up, you take your T30 Torx again, get it started. This way, the rotor doesn't go anywhere while you're working on it. Once you get this T30 screw in here, it's going to be torqued to 106 inch-pounds. We're going to use our torque wrench. You might need to just hold the rotor as you do it. Shouldn't take much, right there.
Now that I've got this screw in here, I'm going to take our brake parts cleaner and just clean the outside of the rotor. We're going to clean up these brake pad clips. These are usually stainless, so they don't really get too rusty. The rust is basically like stains. You're just going to take some brake parts cleaner, just clean them up. If they're real rusty for whatever reason, you should replace them, but we're going to just clean them, take a wire brush. Get all the gunk out. Going to take a rag, get them in there, get them nice and clean.
Okay. We're not going to replace the slide pins in this caliper, because they're both moving freely. But if you need new ones, you can get new ones from 1AAuto.com, they're just like the originals.
To change these, you just get your fingers under there, and they'll just slide off the boot. They're filled with grease. If you need to clean them, you can just take a rag and just wipe them off. As you can see, the replacements are just like the originals. They've got this little flat spot in there.
Those are your caliper mounting bolts, they screw in in the back of those. We're just going to throw a little bit of grease on there, because I wiped it off. Caliper glide grease. Slide that right back in. There might be a little air stuck in there. Can just peel back the boot gently, and just press it in. Just wipe off any excess.
These are your caliper mounting bolts, they go through the hub, they mount into the caliper. They've got factory thread locking compound on them, that needs to be cleaned off, and then you need to reapply fresh thread locking compound before you install them, and then torque them. Use a little bit of brake parts cleaner, spray them down, and take your wire brush and scrub that stuff out of there. Get them as clean as you can.
Before we install the caliper bracket, I'm just going to apply some thread locker to the bolts. That way, they're ready to go. You don't have to go crazy with this stuff. This bracket's going to go this way. Going to start with the top one. Sometimes, you have to play with it a little bit to line it up. You can just get them close with an 18mm socket and ratchet. You don't have to kill them at this point. Once they're close, now we're going to take our torque wrench, 148 foot pounds, and we're going to torque these down.
All right. Now we're going to take the new pads. This is the back pad. It's got this little extra metal bit. It's different from the outside pad. It's got the wear indicator on it. Going to give them a quick spray with brake clean. Try not to touch this now that you've cleaned it. Take a little bit of grease, put it on the tabs. That way, it will slide on the caliper clips. Start at the bottom one. Just flip it up, push it into place.
All right. I'm going to repeat the same steps for the front. The outside pad is different. It fits the contour of the caliper bracket. Okay, now we're ready for the caliper. We'll unhook it from our bungee cords. We'll leave those aside, don't forget them, though. Okay, now we're going to reinstall the caliper, and because we compressed the caliper earlier, it should slide right over. If you need to compress it more, you can take your old pad, just put it in there, take that C clamp they used earlier and then press the pads in. You might have to just push the top and bottom caliper pins in a little bit to get it to slide over.
Hold onto this, because it might shift, and take your caliper bolts and start threading those in. Get the lower one captured. These are 19mm. I'm just going to bring them down so they just start getting tight, because there is a final torque at 74 foot pounds. We'll get those tight. Okay, we're going to torque these caliper bolts to 74 foot pounds. Now, the caliper slide pin can spin, so that's where that 19mm hex in here comes into place. We're going to take an open ended 19, and we're going to counter hold it as we take our torque wrench and torque it. We're going to do the same for the bottom. Now that we're all set, we're going to remove our bungee cord we were using the hold the caliper up.
All right, we're going to put the wheel on. Get your lug nuts all started by hand, so you don't cross thread them. All right, once you've got them started by hand, use your 22mm, it'll just snug them up.
All right, with the vehicle on the ground, now we can torque the lug nuts to 140 foot pounds. Again, it's a 22mm socket. In a cross pattern. When you're done torquing the wheels, you can put your wheel cover back on. This has a little tab here and a little mark here that needs to go to the valve stem.
After your brake job, you just want to step on the pedal. Don't push it to the floor, just about two thirds of the way down, and just slowly pump it up. Just lets the calipers come out to meet the pads, because we compressed them. Nice firm pedal.
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