Replaces
Part Details
TRQ brake kits are designed to restore your brake system to like-new performance. TRQ brake pads are positive molded, thermal scorched, chamfered, and utilize a multi-layer shim for enhanced performance and service life. TRQ rotors have a non-directional finish that reduces the break-in period for new rotors as well as reducing vibrations throughout the rotor’s lifecycle. All products are fit and road-tested in our Massachusetts R&D facility to ensure we deliver on our promise of Trusted Reliable Quality.
Product Features
Item Condition:
New
Attention California Customers:
WARNING: This product can expose you to chemicals including Lead and Lead Compounds, which are known to the State of California to cause cancer, and birth defects or other reproductive harm. For more information, go to www.P65Warnings.ca.gov.
Lifetime Warranty
This item is backed by our limited lifetime warranty. In the event that this item should fail due to manufacturing defects during intended use, we will replace the part free of charge. This warranty covers the cost of the part only.
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Brought to you by 1AAuto.com-- your source for quality replacement parts and the best service on the internet.
Hi, I'm Mike Green. I'm one of the owners of 1A Auto. I want to help you save time and money repairing and maintaining your vehicle. I'm going to use my 20 plus years' experience restoring and repairing cars and trucks like this to show you the correct way to install parts from 1AAuto.com. The right parts installed correctly, that's going to save you time and money. Thank you and enjoy the video.
In this video, we're going to show you how to remove and replace the front wheel bearing hub on this 2004 Trailblazer. This is the same for many 02' to 09' Trailblazer, Envoy, Bravada, Rainier, Saab 9-7X, as well as Isuzu Ascenders. Tools you'll need are various millimeter sockets, a breaker bar or pipe, if you need some extra leverage. I actually didn't need the extra leverage on this vehicle, but I do show you how to use it, flat blade screwdriver, wire brush, a large c-clamp to reset the pistons in the caliper, torque wrench, 35-millimeter socket, which is something that most toolboxes don't have, but you do need that 35-millimeter socket and then jack and jack stands.
Start by prying your cap off. That's a 19 millimeter and if you don't have air tools, you want to start with the wheel on the ground, loosen the lug nut, then raise it, port it with jack stands and then remove the wheel and the tire. I'll just fast forward taking off the rest of those lug nuts and then removing the wheel and tire.
Now either pull or using the steering wheel, turn your wheels, so you have easy access to the back of the brake calipers. Now, we're going to check the condition of the brakes. Now, I spin this, you'll the rotor move. Okay. Then right to the right there, there's actually your pad. As you can see, there's not that much life left and it's not looking well on the outside either. We're going to remove the caliper, which is removing a bolt up here and a bolt down here and then after that, we're going to remove the caliper bracket, which is two large bolts, 18 millimeter one here and one up here.
The bolts on the caliper, relatively easy, 13 millimeter, use a small wrench. We'll just speed it up here as I remove those two bolts. Okay, the caliper comes right off. You can put that over here. Okay. These are 18-millimeter bolts for the caliper bracket. You're going to want a breaker bar, which is a bar to give you extra leverage. Okay. As you can see, it actually come apart pretty easy. If you don't have a breaker bar like this, you just have a ratchet, you can put a piece of pipe on to give you extra leverage and pull it easy on the pipe and it should have come loose.
When you're all the way up, you can just take your pads off. Take your screwdriver, which should pretty easily pry out. All right. You can see this one. That little line down the middle is the wear and tear. It's actually just about at the end of its life.
We'll fast forward again as we remove those two 18-millimeter bolts that hold that caliper bracket. Okay, that comes off. Then your discs should just come off. If your discs don't come off, there are threaded holes and you need to use some bolts. What you do is you put the bolts in there and the bolts crack against the hub to push them out. Okay. These rotors are pretty crusty looking so I am going to replace them using a 35-millimeter socket. If you don't have an impact wrench, what you'll need to do is, you'll do this at the beginning, you pull that cap off your wheel and then with the big breaker bar and a pipe, you'll loosen this hub nut. Because I have an impact wrench, I can do it this way.
When you're replacing the hub, you don't want to go just hammering away on the axle because you can damage your CV joint, but most of the time, if you just give this one good whack, you'll see that it's broken loose. Basically, just watch the relationship of your axle to your hub when you give it a good hit. Okay and it moved just fine. Just a note, I've yet to have a GM car, where just hitting it with the hammer once didn't break it free.
Right in behind there are three bolts, one here, one up there and then there's one around the back side as well, right down there. Now I get to those bolts. I'm going to take an 18-millimeter socket with a short extension. Okay, put it right on there. I'm going to use the poor man's method. I've got my ratchet and keep the pipe for leverage. Okay. Now I'm going to pull nice and easy and actually these come apart pretty nicely.
Now I'm going to speed up as I loosen the other two and remove those three bolts. Okay, your lead comes out. Okay, follow it around and we'll clip back here, push with the screwdriver, push on the other side, and push that out. Okay, and pry these right out. Now I'm going to really speed through here. All I'm going to do is follow the ABS lead up and pry out the connectors. One note is to check your new hub because that will tell you kind of how the connectors come apart, whether or not you need to pry them out of the frame or just open them up, so that you can put the new lead in.
This last connector with a tab right beside here, go in, lift up, and pull that off here. Okay, turn to the side, that out, off. All three of my bolts are off and my harness is disconnected. Just take a hammer. Okay. It all pops off. You need to get this metal shield off. Okay, get the metal shield off by using a combination of tap it off with a hammer and there's your hub. Take a wire brush here. Just clean off some of the scale. Okay, put that back on and a new hub from 1A Auto, exact same thing as the old one. Take the harness and put it back in place, work it onto the CV, push it on, take one of the bolts, put it through here, move the back end plate and start it into the hub. Grab the other two bolts.
I'm just going to speed it up as I reconnect that harness and route all the clips. It's very important to clip it back into place as it was originally, keeps the ABS harness from rubbing against anything and possibly damaging your ABS brakes.
Now we're going to put the torque on these three bolts to 90-foot pounds. I'll fast forward a little bit as I torque the other two bolts and again, I said I torqued them to 90-foot pounds. We're going to put our hub nut on and we're just going to ... we're not torquing it right now. We're just pulling the CV axle into the hub. Here, I'm going to fast forward through putting the brakes back together. If you'd like to see this in real time, just check out our video for the Trailblazer brakes and do please keep watching because I do go through torquing the center nut on the hub, as well as some other important information about what you need to do after you've had your brakes apart.
With the tire back on the ground, I'm going to torque the lug nuts to between 100 and 120-foot pounds, kind of just using a crossing pattern. Now here, I'm going to tighten that lug nut to 103-foot pounds. Very important after doing brake work, always pump your brakes many times and then before you do a road test, make sure the brakes hold the vehicle in gear and then do a stop from five miles an hour and ten miles per hour before hitting the brakes.
We hope this helps you out. Brought to you by www.1AAuto.com-- your source for quality replacement parts and the best service on the internet.
Please feel free to call us toll free, (888) 844-3393. We're the company that serves you on the internet and in person.
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Brought to you by 1AAuto.com, your source for quality replacement parts and the best service on the Internet.
Hi, I'm Don from 1A Auto. I hope this how-to video helps you out, and next time you need parts for your vehicle, think of 1AAuto.com. Thanks.
In this video, we're going to show you how to replace the front brakes on this 2003 GMC Envoy XL. The items you'll need for this are a new brake pad and rotor kit from 1AAuto.com; 17mm, 18mm and 19mm socket and ratchet; a piece of pipe for some extra leverage; 18mm wrench; flat blade screwdriver; torque wrench; hammer; jack and jack stands; large C-clamp; brake grease and brake cleaner.
Start off by prying off your hub cap. Then remove these lug nuts and if you don't have air powered tools, you're going to want to loosen them while the vehicle's on the ground, then raise the vehicle, and remove them the rest of the way. Once they're removed, your wheel can pull right off.
If you're looking to check the condition of your brakes, you want to run your fingernail up and down the rotor to make sure there are no deep grooves. These rotors should be turned down at least because they're pretty rough from some corrosion. Then, brake pads have a wear mark in them. You can see right here on this brake pad. If you look right down in here, you'll see right there there's a tiny little hole and that hole is basically what you can see of what's left of that wear mark, which means that these pads have a little bit of life left on them but we're going to change them out anyways to show you.
Now, you want to remove these two 17mm bolts. You can see Mike's using a 18mm wrench to hold the nut on the inside. It'll just make it easier to remove that bolt. Now, using a flat blade screwdriver, just pry out on the caliper. Then, you can just set that aside. Now, pry out your brake pads. Then, just pull off these slides.
Now, you want to remove these two 18mm bolts. We'll just fast forward as Mike does that and you can see he's using a piece of pipe for some extra leverage to help break those bolts free. Once those are removed, the bracket will pull right off and if your rotor doesn't slide right off, then you may just want to tap it with a hammer, and just keep turning it and hitting it with a hammer until it pulls free. However, there is something else you can do to break it free as well. Alright, so if you have trouble getting the rotor off, it actually has press holes. You would get a bolt that's the proper size. I believe this an M12 bolt. You use two bolts, thread them into those holes and as you tighten them up, they press against the hub and push the rotor off. You can do that or just keep going with the big hammer. I'm not worried about it because I'm replacing the rotor anyway. You can see I've put a lug nut on; this is just to keep the rotor from flying off when you're hitting it with the hammer.
On the left, are the old brake pads and rotor; on the right, are the new ones from 1A Auto. You can see they're identical and they'll fit exactly the same. Take your new rotor and you want to make sure that these holes line up in between the two holes that are on the hub and then you just slide your rotor back into place. Replace a lug nut to hold it into place. You want to check these slides on your caliper bracket and make sure that they're greased up. If they're not, just apply some brake grease to them. Then, fit the bracket into place. Then just twisting in your bolts by hand and then tighten them up. Now, torque these bolts to 110 foot-pounds.
Using a wire brush, just clean up these brake pad slides. Then just clip it back into place. Do the same thing with the other one. Now, wipe down your rotor with some brake cleaner or mineral spirits. Take your new brake pads, remove the clips from your old brake pads and just clip them into place on the new ones. Then, apply some brake grease to the tabs on either end of the brake pads. Then, just push the brake pad into place. Repeat the process with the other pad. Take your caliper and a large C-clamp and one of your old brake pads and just put the old brake pad in front of those two pistons on the caliper. Then take your large C-clamp, set it up in between the two pistons on that brake pad, and just twist the brake pad in until it pushes those two pistons all the way in. Now, push your caliper back down into place and replace those two 17mm bolts. We'll fast forward as Mike does that and tightens those up. Now, torque each of those to 40 foot-pounds.
We'll fast forward here as Mike replaces the wheel and then the lug nuts and tightens them up preliminarily, lowers the vehicle, and tightens them up the rest of the way. You want to torque each of these lug nuts to 100 foot-pounds in a crossing pattern. Obviously you'd repeat this for the other side as well. Always replace your brakes in pairs.
After you've done any work on the brakes, you want to just pump the brake pedal until it firms up. Then you want to do a stopping test from five miles per hour, then 10 miles per hour.
We hope this video helps you out. Brought to you by www.1AAuto.com, your source for quality replacement parts and the best service on the Internet. Please feel free to call us toll-free, 888-844-3393. We're the company that's here for you on the Internet and in person.
