Replaces
Replaces 2003-07 Saturn Ion with RPO Code FE1 (Soft Ride Suspension) without RPO Code FE3 (Sport Suspension) Front 12 Piece Steering & Suspension Kit TRQ PSA75043
$263.95
Replaces 2003-07 Saturn Ion without RPO Code FE3 (Sport Suspension) Front 10 Piece Steering & Suspension Kit TRQ PSA63515
$234.95
Replaces 2003-07 Saturn Ion without RPO Code FE3 (Sport Suspension) Front 8 Piece Steering & Suspension Kit TRQ PSA63504
$205.95
Replaces Chevrolet Pontiac Saturn Front 10 Piece Steering & Suspension Kit TRQ PSA59652
$164.95
Replaces Chevrolet Pontiac Saturn Front 8 Piece Steering & Suspension Kit TRQ PSA58766
$159.95
Replaces Chevrolet Pontiac Saturn Front 6 Piece Steering & Suspension Kit TRQ PSA59227
$134.95
Replaces Chevrolet Pontiac Front Driver Side Strut & Spring Assembly TRQ SCA57493
$95.95
Replaces Chevrolet Pontiac Front Passenger Side Strut & Spring Assembly TRQ SCA57494
$95.95
Replaces Chevrolet Pontiac Saturn Front Driver Side Lower Control Arm with Ball Joint TRQ PSA84198
$69.95
Replaces Chevrolet Pontiac Saturn Front Passenger Side Lower Control Arm with Ball Joint TRQ PSA84199
$69.95
Replaces Chevrolet Pontiac Saturn Front Wheel Bearing & Hub Assembly TRQ BHA53986
$59.95
Replaces Chevrolet Pontiac Saturn Suzuki Front Outer Tie Rod TRQ PSA68253
$34.95
Replaces Chevrolet Pontiac Saturn Front Sway Bar Link TRQ PSA67758
$30.95
Replaces Chevrolet Pontiac Saturn Front Inner Tie Rod TRQ PSA68295
$29.95
Part Details
Specifications
Product Features
TRQ drivetrain kits are manufactured using premium raw materials to restore original performance. Each TRQ drivetrain component is designed to be a direct, maintenance-free replacement to the stock unit. To extend the service life of your drivetrain, TRQ recommends replacing wheel hubs, bearings, and constant velocity (CV) drive axles at the same time to ensure even wear of components and improved ride comfort. All products are fit and road-tested in our Massachusetts R&D facility to ensure we deliver on our promise of Trusted Reliable Quality.
Replacing struts used to require specialized tools to compress, remove, and transfer the old spring and mount. Our Pre-assembled, complete strut & spring assemblies come with all new parts and make the job much quicker and easier for the do-it-yourself mechanic.
Strut & spring assembly contains:
Install Tip: When replacing steering components, have a professional alignment performed afterwards. This ensures proper tracking and even tire wear.
Our steering and suspension components are pre-greased and sealed for long life and do not require the extra maintenance typically required by greaseable versions.
Attention California Customers:
WARNING: This product can expose you to chemicals including Chromium (Hexavalent Compounds), which is known to the State of California to cause cancer, and birth defects or other reproductive harm. For more information, go to www.P65Warnings.ca.gov
Lifetime Warranty
This item is backed by our limited lifetime warranty. In the event that this item should fail due to manufacturing defects during intended use, we will replace the part free of charge. This warranty covers the cost of the part only.
FREE Shipping is standard on orders shipped to the lower 48 States (Contiguous United States). Standard shipping charges apply to Hawaii and Alaska.
Shipping is not available to a P.O. Box, APO/FPO/DPO addresses, US Territories, or Canada for this item.
Expedited is available on checkout to the United States, excluding Alaska, Hawaii.
Final shipping costs are available at checkout.
Created on:
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Brought to you by 1AAuto.com, your source for quality replacement parts and the best service on the internet.
Hi, I'm Mike from 1A Auto. I hope this how-to video helps you out, and next time you need parts for your vehicle, think of 1AAuto.com. Thanks. In this video, we're going to show you how to replace the hub on this 2005 Cobalt. This vehicle has four lugs and no ABS, but the process for a vehicle if you have the five lug and you have ABS on your vehicle, the process is generally the same. There's just one extra lug but and you also have to disconnect and reconnect the ABS harness. So we're going to show you front hub replacement. The tools you'll need are jack and jack stands, 14 and 19 mm sockets, a 30 mm socket, and the reason I put that separately is because that's generally not one that's in a common tool set. You'll need ratchet extensions, and you'll need either a breaker bar or a pipe for the bolts, because they will be difficult to loosen, and then you'll need a large screwdriver, and probably a hammer.
With the wheel cover off, you'll want to remove the center hub nut, it's a 30 mm nut, and you'll want to probably have the car on the ground. If you're working with hand tools, have the car on the ground, the car will hold itself in place. Use a large breaker bar or a ratchet with a pipe and remove that center nut. Then, also, again if you have just hand tools, loosen up the lug nuts, then raise and secure the vehicle on jack stands and remove the lug nuts and wheel and tire.
Ok, use a small pry bar or screwdriver and just pry out here. That will allow the caliper to come off easier. You'll want to remove this 14mm bolt and this 14 mm bolt. Take your caliper and brakes off. Ok, just speed it up here as I remove those two bolts. Those bolts should not be in there that tight, so they should come out with a regular wrench with some force. And then when I take the caliper off, I just put it up on the strut and then use a large screwdriver and just pry the pads off. Ok, now you want to remove the caliper bracket, which is two 15 mm bolts, one here, one here. 15 mm socket, and then you'll want to use a breaker bar or a piece of pipe like this for extra leverage. Speed up here again as I just remove those two bolts the rest of the way and then remove that bracket.
The axle, it's already nice and loose. What you can do if it doesn't just push right out - you don't want to beat on it too much with a hammer, cause you don't want to ruin your constant velocity joints. But what you can do is give it one good rap, and if you see it move, then once it starts moving, it should come out pretty easily. The next step would be to remove the three bolts that hold the hub, which is one here, one up here and then one on the back side, right here. Use an extension and our bar again for the extra leverage, and they should come apart fairly easily.
Fast forward again here as I remove the other bolts and just one note - if you have ABS, the car I'm working on does not ABS brakes, but if you have ABS brakes, you'll want to disconnect your ABS lead, probably before you take out the rear bolt. And that's pretty easy, you'll see the connection it's right in behind the hub, you put it off the clamp that holds on to the metal bracket, and then just pull a tab up and disconnect the lead. Ok, if you had ABS brakes at this point, actually, before you hammer it out, you unhook the ABS sensor, and when you pull it out just be careful, pull the center out, washer, and then take the backing plate off. Backing plate can stay right there for right now.
New hub from 1A Auto, goes right on, if you have ABS, you'll want to feed the sensor wire through first. Ok. This goes on pointed to the front. Get the hub into the axle bit. Start one of the bolts from the backside, press the hub against it, and then start the bolt in. Start the bolt in. I'll speed up here as I start all three bolts in and then kind of tighten them, just firm, you want to torque them afterwards, and obviously at this point if you had the ABS brakes, make sure you reconnect your ABS harness and clip the connection back on to the backing plate. Tighten these to 70 to 75 foot-pounds. And I'll speed up here again as I just tighten the other two bolts. Put the washer on, and the nut. And I'm just going to preliminarily tighten this up.
Ok I'm going to kind of speed up through here, putting the brakes back together. If you wanted to see this in regular speed, we do have a video for the brakes for the Chevy Cobalt, but you put the disk back in place, or the rotor back in place. I use a nut to hold it on or a lug nut to hold it on. Then put the caliper bracket back on, tighten those bolts. You want to torque those bolts to 75-80 foot-pounds. And then once you have that all set, you'll put the pads back in place, put the pads back in place and then put the caliper down into place and tighten the bolts that hold the caliper. You want to tighten those 20-22 foot-pounds. Continuing with the faster motion here, put your wheel and tire back in place. If you put a lug to hold the disk on, you can take that off. Put the wheel and tire back in place. Start the lug nuts by hand and then preliminarily tighten them before you let the vehicle down. Ok, torque your lug nuts to 100 foot-pounds. Ok, now you'll want to torque your spindle nut to 155 foot-pounds.
And if applicable, put your center cap or your hub cap back on and install the retainers. Any time you've had the brakes apart, pump them up a bunch of times, then do test stops of 5 and 10 mph before road testing the vehicle. Make sure everything's working well.
We hope this helps you out. Brought to you by www.1AAuto.com, your source for quality replacement parts and the best service on the internet. Please feel free to call us toll free, 888-844-3393. We're the company that's here for you on the internet and in person.
Tools used
Brought to you by 1A Auto dot com, your source for quality replacement parts, and the best service on the internet. Hi, I'm Mike from 1A Auto. I hope this how to video helps you out, and next time you need parts for your vehicle, think of 1AAuto.com. Thanks.
In this video I'm going to show you front strut replacement on this 2005 Chevy Cobalt. I'll obviously show you the driver's side. You do want to replace your struts in pairs, so replace the driver's side and the passenger's side at the same time. This is the same process for pretty much any '05 to '10 Cobalt, as well as the Pontiac G5. This vehicle does not have ABS brakes, so there would be ... if you have ABS, there's probably just a bracket that's bolted to the strut that you would need to remove. Tools you'll need are a jack and jack stands, thirteen to nineteen millimeter sockets with ratchet and extension, an eighteen millimeter wrench, a hammer. You'll need a breaker bar or a pipe for some extra leverage on a couple of the nuts and bolts, and a torque wrench for reassembly.
Underneath the hood of your car, we're going to start on the driver's side. We'll show you the driver's side. Obviously when you replace struts you want to replace them in pairs, so the passenger's side is basically the same procedure. But there are three nuts that hold the strut at the top. There are fourteen ... or I'm sorry. There are thirteen millimeter nuts. You want to remove one of them completely, and then the other two you can remove, but then just kind of thread them back on, so it holds the strut in place. Use a nineteen millimeter socket or lug wrench, and remove the lug caps and the wheel cover. If you don't have access to air tools, you want to start with the vehicle on the ground. Loosen the lug nuts first, then raise the vehicle, remove the lug nuts. Now use an eighteen millimeter wrench, and you can grab on the back side there, and then an eighteen millimeter socket and ratchet. Remove that nut. A little bit of penetrating oil just to help get that nut off easier.
Now I'm using my eighteen millimeter socket with the ratchet and a piece of pipe. You can use pipe, or if you have a breaker bar. You just need some extra leverage to get that bolt to move some, and then actually grab onto the wrench. Hold the wrench, and just start it loosened, and then you can do it by hand the rest of the way. Once you remove that nut, then you can just knock out or remove the top of that stabilizer link. Now you'll need to remove these two nuts. Also, if you have ABS brakes, there's probably a bracket bolted in up here. These two nuts are eighteen millimeters. I'm just going to shoot them with a little bit of penetrating oil first. Use your 18 mm socket. Use a pipe for some extra leverage. Fast forward here as I remove those nuts the rest of the way. Then what you want to do is you can thread the nut back onto the bolt, probably about four or five turns. That just protects the end of the bolt. Use a hammer, and drive the bolts out. Then obviously take the nut the rest of the way out, and drive it out the rest of the way. On this vehicle, the top one is a little stubborn. It takes a little more force with the hammer, and then I actually use the bottom bolt that drove out.
I use it to help drive the top bolt out the rest of the way. Once you have those bolts out, and the bottom loose, just reach up on the top, and remove the two nuts that you left on the top, and then you'll be able to pull the strut down and out. Take the new strut from 1A Auto, and I actually kind of do this the hard way here. What you want to do is put it up in, and you can either put one of your large bolts through the strut and the steering knuckle, and then start the three nuts up top. I hold it up, and start the three nuts up at the top first. But you start those. Then you get both of the bolts through the bottom and the steering knuckle, and then you can tighten those up. You just want to tighten those up kind of preliminarily, and then you'll torque them. Torque these to a hundred foot pounds. Fast forward through this part. You just take that stabilizer link, put it back into the new strut, and put the nut on, and tighten the nut up. You want to get it nice and tight. If you were to torque it, I guess it would probably be about forty-five to fifty foot pounds.
Also, if you have ABS brakes, you want to reconnect any clips or anything that was connected to the strut. Reinstall the tire. You want to put the lug nuts on by hand first, and then just kind of preliminarily tighten them. You'll torque them when the vehicle's back on the ground. Tighten and torque these to twenty foot pounds. I'll speed up here as I do that. On the inside one, you can't really get a torque wrench on it, so I just used a small combination wrench, and got it nice and tight. Twenty foot pounds is not that tight. You don't want to over tighten them, because you could strip them, and these are not bolts that you want to strip. Now torque your lug nuts to a hundred foot pounds each, and then replace either your wheel cover or the wheel caps and the retainers.
We hope this helps you out. Brought to you by www.1AAuto.com, your source for quality replacement parts, and the best service on the internet. Please feel free to call us toll free 888-844-3393. We're the company that's here for you on the internet and in person.
