2016 Chevrolet Camaro Rear Driver & Passenger Side 2 Piece Wheel Bearing & Hub Assembly Set TRQ BHA53789

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In this video, we're going to be working with our 2011 Chevy Camaro 3.6L V6, with manual transmission. We're going to show you how to remove and replace your vehicle's rear wheel hub and bearing assembly. We're doing this on the passenger side, but the procedure should be the same on the driver's side. If you like this video, please click subscribe. We have a ton more information on this and many other vehicles, and if you need this part for your car, you can follow the link down in the description over to 1Aauto.com. Here are the items you'll need for this repair.

Using a 22 millimeter socket and a breaker bar, loosen all of your lug nuts. Raise and support your vehicle. We're using the lift to make it easier to show you what's going on, but this job can easily be done at home on a jack and jackstands. Remove your lugnuts. Remove your wheel and tire.

Using the 32 millimeter socket and a breaker bar, with the vehicle in gear, and the parking brake on, we'll loosen our axle nut. These are a one-time use, so if you remove this, be sure you have a new one to reinstall when you're done. Once we get it loosened up, we'll switch over to a socket and ratchet. Place a punch in the center section of the axle and tap the splines loose.

All of the bolts on your caliper, being the two 14 millimeters on the pins and the two 16s securing it to the knuckle, are one-time use, so if you remove any of this hardware, be sure you have all your replacements with you. We're not going to remove the caliper for this. We're going to move the bracket and caliper as a whole, so we're going to use our 16 millimeter socket and ratchet to loosen and remove the bolts. Make sure you have a bungee cord or some mechanic's wire or zip tie handy. You can secure your brake caliper out of the way without putting strain on the rubber hose.

Using a T30 Torx bit and ratchet, remove your rotor screw. Release your e-brake. You may need to use a hammer to release your rotor. If you're going to be reusing it, you're going to want to hit the face and not the edges. This'll free it up without damaging the contact surface of the rotor.

Remove the two 13 millimeter bolts at the bottom and the one on the top securing the wheel hub and bearing assembly to the knuckle. Here we've set up our two-jaw puller to remove the hub while simultaneously pushing the CV axle shaft out of its splines. We'll tighten that down with a 16 millimeter socket and ratchet for our particular tool. They also have a variety of different hub pullers as well as slide hammers, but if you want to keep the wheel bearing in good shape, a slide hammer is not the tool you want to use.

Using a small flat-blade screwdriver or right-angle pick, you'll need to grab this spring washer. It's a one -time use, so you'll need to change this out before we put our new hub on. Go ahead and work that off the end of your CV axle and throw it away.

Install the new spring washer, the spacer, on to your axle fully, before installing the wheel hub. Install the wheel bearing and the hub assembly on to the splines of the CV axle. Start all three of your 13 millimeter wheel hub bolts before tightening any of them down fully. This will help line the hub up and suck it into the knuckle. Tighten the bolts down with a 13 millimeter socket and ratchet. We're just going to snug them now, and then we'll torque them. We'll then torque the hub bolts to 85 foot-pounds.

To reinstall your rotor, just use a T30 Torx bit on an extension or a T30 Torx screwdriver if you have one. I'm just going to snug that rotor screw, and it doesn't really do anything structural, it just holds this in place to make installing the caliper easier. As long as you get it on there tight, and this isn't moving, you should be fine. Reinstall your caliper and carrier onto the rotor. Put your two new 16 millimeter bolts through the knuckle and into the carrier. We'll then snug them down with the 16 millimeter socket and ratchet before torquing and putting the torque angle on the bolts. Torque the bolts to 30 foot-pounds, then add 90 degrees.

Install a new axle nut, tighten it down with a 32 millimeter socket and ratchet. Torque the axle nut to 200 foot-pounds. Reinstall your wheel and tire. Get all five of your lug nuts on as tight as you can by hand. You may also use the 22 millimeter socket to help you spin these in. Lower your vehicle back onto its wheels. You can now torque your lug nuts to 140 foot-pounds in a cross pattern.

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