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June 9, 2022
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Part Details
Specifications
About TRQ:
TRQ is a trusted brand dedicated to making every repair a success story by combining premium parts with easy installation. Each TRQ part is engineered by a team of automotive experts to meet or exceed OEM standards, delivering enhanced performance and maximum longevity. With rigorous in-house testing, the brand ensures superior fit and function across every product line. TRQ also provides customers with best-in-class, step-by-step installation videos—so you can complete repairs with confidence, whether you're a first-time DIYer or an industry professional.
Product Features
Attention California Customers:
WARNING: This product can expose you to chemicals including Lead and Lead Compounds, which are known to the State of California to cause cancer, and birth defects or other reproductive harm. For more information, go to www.P65Warnings.ca.gov.
Lifetime Warranty
This item is backed by our limited lifetime warranty. In the event that this item should fail due to manufacturing defects during intended use, we will replace the part free of charge. This warranty covers the cost of the part only.
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Brought to you by 1AAuto.com, your source for quality replacement parts and the best service on the Internet.
Hi, I'm Mike from 1A Auto. I hope this how-to video helps you out, and next time you need parts for your vehicle, think of 1AAuto.com. Thanks.
In this video, we're going to show how to service the front brakes on this 2000 Buick LaSabre, pretty much the same for any 2000 and 2005. It ends up this vehicle has very good brakes on it so we do just take them apart and put them back together for you. New brakes are available at 1AAuto.com.The tools you'll need are jack and jack stands, 15mm and 19mm sockets, ratchet with a pipe or breaker bar for some extra leverage on some of those bolts, large flat blade screwdriver, wire brush, some grease, a large C-clamp and a torque wrench.
On this LeSabre, you want to remove this center hub cap. Just pull firmly and you want to loosen the lug nuts. If you don't have air tools, you'll want to loosen your lug nuts with the wheel on the ground then raise and support the vehicle and then remove the lug nuts and the wheel the rest of the way. I'll fast forward here as I use a 19mm socket with an impact wrench and remove the lug nuts and the wheel and tire and then just turn the suspension so I can get a good look at the brakes.
It would appear that the brakes have been done recently on this vehicle. I can tell because here's the metal of the brake pad, here's the brake pad itself and then here's rotor and you can see there's a good probably 3/8 of an inch of pad there, which is plenty of life. Then on the outer pad, it's same thing. It's nice and thick. For the rotors, you want to try and do an inspection, run the back of your fingernail along them and you'll feel very, very small grooves but you shouldn't feel any large grooves. Then the condition of the rotors up here looks pretty good, a little bit rusty but not too bad, still nice and thick. It looks like these brakes are good but we'll show you how to take them apart and put them back together just so you have the information.
To get the brakes apart, first you're going to remove two 15mm bolts, here and here. You should be able to use a 15mm socket with a ratchet and these should come apart with some force but they should come apart pretty easy. I'll speed it up here as I loosen the top one and take both of those bolts out and I'll show you them in a minute. The bolts are actually the items that the caliper slide on, as well. So, I'll show a little close-up to you. These are slides. When you take them apart you want to note their condition. These probably should be cleaned up and put a little bit of grease onto them. We'll speed it up here again as I just finish removing the upper bolt out of the top. Take a large screwdriver, put it right in here, and pry out, and that actually forces the piston back into the caliper a little bit. You can see I use a screwdriver to pry out on the caliper a little bit and that loosens it up enough so I can get the caliper up and off. Then I hang it up on the strut. I'll show you that right there. Brake pads, really easily, just pry out. As I said, there's plenty of life left in these pads. For the back one, do the same thing. It pulls right out the back side.
If you did need to replace the rotor, you'd want to remove these two bolts here. I'm using my socket again and a ratchet, use a breaker bar or a piece of pipe. A piece of pipe helps you get some extra leverage and just push nice and firm until you start getting them loose. I fast forward here as I use the ratchet and pipe to loosen up the top one and then take both of the bolts out. Now your rotor comes right off.
Now, we're going to show you how to put the brakes back together. As you can see, there's a nice new hub on this vehicle that actually turned out to be what the car needed so we actually did a hub replacement and you can see that video on our other videos. We decided to do this brake video to help you out as well while we were doing the hub. The rotor goes back on. Before you put this caliper bracket back on, take a wire brush and make sure these are all nice and clean. In particular, you're cleaning the grooves where the brake pads sit and slide. This part goes between the rotor and the steering knuckle. The bolt goes to the steering knuckle first then into the caliper bracket. Start my lower one. Start my upper one. Speed it up here as I just preliminarily tighten those two bolts up. Now we'll torque these to 80 foot-pounds.
Bring your caliper down. You'll need a large C-clamp and put it into the piston and this just resets the piston all the way back into the caliper. Just make sure it's on the flat part of the back side, that it's not on the hose or anything. As you tighten it up, it forces the piston back into the caliper. I'll just speed it up as I back the C-clamp off and remove it. Put it down, and make sure your hose isn't twisted. You might want to pull these grommets in a little bit, put your caliper down on, and make sure those aren't bunched up. Here are my slides. I cleaned them up, and put a light coat of grease on them. The lower one came out with this sleeve so I took that off, cleaned it all out, put a little grease on the inside and the outside of it. Put our brake pads back on. The back one just slides right in. This front one you push down in a little bit diagonally. Put it in. Put the top one back in first. Start it a little bit. Now do our bottom one. I'll fast forward again as I just preliminarily tighten those bolts. Torque these to about 50 foot-pounds. I apologize for the low volume. Fifty foot-pounds is what you want to torque those to.
Speed it up here as we put the wheel and tire back on and then just the lug nuts by hand and then tighten them preliminarily with an impact wrench. Torque your lug nuts to 100 foot-pounds using a star pattern. We'll speed up the tape as we torque up the lug nuts.
Anytime you take the brakes apart, make sure that you pump your pedal a whole bunch of times until it gets firm and then do test stops from 5 and 10 miles an hour, make sure the brakes are working correctly before you road test your vehicle.
We hope this video helps you out. Brought to you by www.1AAuto.com, your source for quality replacement parts and the best service on the Internet. Please feel free to call us toll-free, 888-844-3393. We're the company that's here for you on the Internet and in person.
Tools used
Brought to you by 1A Auto.com, your source for quality replacement parts and the best service on the internet. Hi, I'm Mike from 1A Auto. I hope this how-to video helps you out. Next time you need parts for your vehicle, think of 1AAuto.com. Thanks. In this video, we're going to show you how to replace the rear brakes on this 2000 Buick LeSabre. The brakes on this car end up being in pretty good shape, so we just show you how to remove them and reinstall them. New brakes are available at 1AAuto.com.
Tools you'll need for this job are jack and jack stands, 12, 13, 15 and 19 millimeter sockets, ratchets and extensions. You'll need a breaker bar or a pipe, for some leverage, large flat blade screwdriver, a hammer, a torque wrench, and a large c-clamp. Pull firmly on this hubcap. If you don't have the benefit of air tools, you'll want to have your vehicle on the ground. Loosen the lug nuts first, then raise and secure the vehicle and remove the lug nuts the rest of the way.
Just fast forward here as I remove the lug nuts and remove the rear wheel. You can see my brakes are actually in pretty good shape. Right here's the metal of the pad, and then the pad itself. There's a little hole right there, that's actually the wear indicator. Once that gap, or hole, is gone, that's when you know you need to replace the pads. You can see that they still have some life left. What you're going to want to do is remove this bolt here. This is a 12 millimeter bolt. I'll fast forward here. You can see it took a little bit of force, but that bolt should come out pretty easy. Use a 13 millimeter socket and remove this bracket right here as well. Now take a good sized screwdriver, you can put it right in here and pry out a little bit. That will help reset the piston and help loosen up the caliper. Now you pull this up. You actually slide your... you want to make sure your caliper slides okay. If you're just looking to replace the pads, you can, now, just pull the pads right out from the front and in the back. As I said, these pads are in good shape. Still got most of the wear mark.
You can check the condition of your rotors just by kind of running the back of your fingernail up and down them. These are actually in pretty good shape. There's no real big grooves in them. If you did want to replace or turn your rotors, you'll want to remove this bolt and then this bolt down here further. For this, I'm going to use a larger wrench. I'm actually even going to take a piece of pipe, put it on my ratchet. This gives me a little extra leverage. Back. I'm just going to pull nice and easy till this bolt starts turning. For this bottom one, I've got a 15 millimeter wrench. It's a little bit of tight quarters. I'm actually going to take a 18 millimeter wrench and hook it on here. That's going to give me some extra leverage here. Again, just pull nice and easy till the bolt starts to come loose. I'm speeded up here again. As you can see, after just a couple turns, I'm going to be able to reach up in there and take that bolt out most of the way with just my fingers. Once you get this upper bolt off, then this whole bracket assembly just lifts right up and off. I'm going to put it up here for now. The rotor's kind of frozen. The best thing is a large hammer. Hit the center of the rotor here. Comes off.
You can see in this shot, there's a nice new hub on there. That's what this car actually needed, was a new rear hub. If you want to see more details on doing that, you can check our other videos. As I said before, the brakes on this car are in good shape, so you're just going to see me put those back together. We'll pick it up from there. Reinstall our disc. I like to just put a lug nut on here, just kind of holds everything in place. Bring our bracket down and force it inside here, down into place and start our large 15 millimeter bolt. I'm going to speed things up here as I start the first bolt, and then the other bolts, and then just kind of preliminarily tighten them with my ratchet and wrench. The bottom, I can't get a torque wrench on here, so what I'm going to do is I'll get it tight with my wrench first. Once I get it tight with the single wrench, then I hook my other wrench on and pull it tight using extra leverage. Now on the top, I use a torque wrench and torque the top bolt to 60 foot pounds.
Before you put your new pads on, you want to reset the piston in your caliper. I've got a large c-clamp pushing on the piston and then on the back caliper here. Then simply pull your caliper up, put the back one in. Put the front one on here. Put your caliper down in place. As you're pushing the caliper down, you might need to push this back like that. You want to torque this anywhere from 12 to 15 foot pounds. I'll speed it up here as I remove that lug nut, put that wheel back on, start all the lug nuts by hand first, and then you want to just, preliminarily, tighten the lug nuts before you put the car on the ground. Now use a torque wrench and torque your lug nuts to 100 foot pounds. Use a star pattern as the order in which you torque them. Any time you take the brakes apart, make sure that you pump your pedal a whole bunch of times until it gets firm. Then do test stops from 5 and 10 miles an hour. Make sure the brakes are working correctly before you road-test your vehicle.
We hope this helps you out. Brought to you by www.1AAuto.com, your source for quality replacement parts, and the best service on the internet. Please feel free to call us toll free, (888) 844-3393. We're the company that's here for you on the internet and in person.
BKA12386
Very thankful for great products and free shipping is awesome, very great full for 1AAuto.
Fast delivery and fit right
The rotors quality and coating seem great. I have about 5k miles on them, theyve made a loud squeak under a hard brake and they produce a lot of brake dust for being ceramic but I do have to say they stop perfect so far and there is no fade at all. The positives are outweighed by the negatives for me but it depends on what you want to give and take with them.
Came quickly, perfect size, perfect fit. Whisper quiet operation. I notice I can stop 5-10 feet shorter, in a controlled stop, than the EOM equipment. Look great, on the vehicle, too.
Love these rotors! 56k, no warp. They are a little noisier than stock solid rotors but Im over it. Pads were underwhelming. Worn out in about 40k. Bought a set from local parts dealer to replace them.
its only been a few days that i nstalled these brakes,Ill admit that they feel really good the ceramic pads really do the job i'm sure they will last for a long time.
