★★★★★
June 17, 2023
Perfect fit.
Perfect fit.
Replaces
Part Details
Specifications
About TRQ:
TRQ is a trusted brand dedicated to making every repair a success story by combining premium parts with easy installation. Each TRQ part is engineered by a team of automotive experts to meet or exceed OEM standards, delivering enhanced performance and maximum longevity. With rigorous in-house testing, the brand ensures superior fit and function across every product line. TRQ also provides customers with best-in-class, step-by-step installation videos—so you can complete repairs with confidence, whether you're a first-time DIYer or an industry professional.
Product Features
TRQ suspension kits are manufactured using premium raw materials and coatings for extended service life. Each TRQ suspension component is designed to be a direct, maintenance-free replacement to the stock unit. To extend the life of your steering and suspension components, TRQ recommends replacing components in pairs, sets, or kits. All products are fit and road-tested in our Massachusetts R&D facility to ensure we deliver on our promise of Trusted Reliable Quality.
Install Tip: When replacing steering components, have a professional alignment performed afterwards. This ensures proper tracking and even tire wear.
Our steering and suspension components are pre-greased and sealed for long life and do not require the extra maintenance typically required by greaseable versions.
Attention California Customers:
WARNING: This product can expose you to chemicals including Chromium (Hexavalent Compounds), which is known to the State of California to cause cancer, and birth defects or other reproductive harm. For more information, go to www.P65Warnings.ca.gov
This part fits 4 vehicles spanning 2001-2005.
| Year | Make | Model | Description |
|---|---|---|---|
| 2001 | BMW | 325Xi | BMW 325Xi From 2/01/01 Production Date Front 10 Piece Steering & Suspension Kit TRQ PSA56142 |
| 2002-2005 | BMW | 325Xi | BMW 325Xi Front 10 Piece Steering & Suspension Kit TRQ PSA56142 |
| 2001 | BMW | 330Xi | BMW 330Xi From 2/01/01 Production Date Front 10 Piece Steering & Suspension Kit TRQ PSA56142 |
| 2002-2005 | BMW | 330Xi | BMW 330Xi Front 10 Piece Steering & Suspension Kit TRQ PSA56142 |
| Brand Label | Part Number |
|---|---|
| Precision Driveline | CB10158 |
| Beck/Arnley | 101-6908 |
| MOOG Chassis Products | RK620026 |
| Mevotech | CMS10190 |
| Mevotech | GS10190 |
| Dorman - OE Solutions | 521-942 |
| MAS Industries | CB14184 |
| Beck/Arnley | 101-6907 |
| Precision Driveline | CB10157 |
| Beck/Arnley | 101-7358 |
| Beck/Arnley | 102-6440 |
| NAPA Premium | 2606330 |
| MAS Industries | CB14183 |
| Mevotech | GS10191 |
| Mevotech | CMS10191 |
| Mevotech | MS10190 |
| Precision Driveline | 5CB10158 |
| MOOG Chassis Products | CK620026 |
| BMW | 31126758533 |
| Beck/Arnley | 102-6439 |
| Dorman | 521-941 |
| Beck/Arnley | 101-7357 |
| BMW | 31126758534 |
| MOOG Chassis Products | K750328 |
| NAPA Premium | 2606329 |
| Mcquay-Norris | FA3326 |
| MOOG Chassis Products | RK620025 |
| NAPA | 2606330 |
| MAS Industries | CB14183PR |
| BMW | 31121096222 |
| Precision Driveline | 5CB10157 |
| Mcquay-Norris | FA3325 |
| NAPA | 2606329 |
| Dorman - OE Solutions | 521-941 |
| Mevotech | MS10191 |
| MOOG Chassis Products | K620025 |
| MOOG Chassis Products | CK620025 |
| Dorman | 521-942 |
| MOOG Chassis Products | K750327 |
| MAS Industries | CB14184PR |
| MOOG Chassis Products | K620026 |
| DIY Solutions | SUS00169 |
| DIY Solutions | SUS06720 |
| DIY Solutions | SUS06353 |
| DIY Solutions | SUS00170 |
| DIY Solutions | SUS05608 |
| DIY Solutions | SUS05607 |
| DIY Solutions | SUS06721 |
| BMW | 31121139791 |
| BMW | 31121139792 |
| BMW | 31129063163 |
| Mevotech | MS10516 |
| MOOG Chassis Products | K500348 |
| Mevotech | MS10515 |
| MOOG Chassis Products | K500349 |
| Mevotech | MS10808 |
| Mevotech | MS10809 |
| Dorman | 531-177 |
| Karlyn | 10-695 |
| URO Parts | 31126756696 |
| WORLDPAC | W01331663106 |
| Dorman - Premium | BJ14274PR |
| OMNIPARTS | 30036465 |
| Mevotech | FGS10515 |
| Mevotech | 5CB10158 |
| Mcquay-Norris | FA4405 |
| Import Direct Control Arms | 5CB10158 |
| BMW | 31126756696 |
| Mevotech Original Grade | GS10191 |
| Karlyn | 10-696 |
| Rare Parts | 12943 |
| Mevotech | K500348 |
| OMNIPARTS | 30036464 |
| Mevotech | RMS10191 |
| Mcquay-Norris | FA4406 |
| Dorman - Premium | BJ14273PR |
| MTC | 1939 |
| BMW | 31126-756-695 |
| Precision Chassis | K500348 |
| STI | 10-695 |
| WORLDPAC | W01331663105 |
| URO Parts | 31126756695 |
| STI | 10-696 |
| MTC | 1940 |
| Delphi | TC5505 |
| Mevotech Original Grade | GS10190 |
| Delphi | TC5504 |
| BMW | 31121140356 |
| IMC | 37206008001 |
| BMW | 31121140355 |
| IMC | 37206009001 |
| Rare Parts | 12944 |
| BMW | 31356751079 |
| BMW | 31356751080 |
| URO Parts | URO002309 |
| URO Parts | URO002308 |
| Carquest | CA1025B |
| Carquest | CA1024B |
| BMW | 32 21 6 751 040 |
| BMW | 32 21 6 751 039 |
| Delphi | TA5489 |
| BMW | 32106774319 |
| Delphi | TA5509 |
| Dorman - Premium | CB14183PR |
| Dorman - OE Solutions | 531-177 |
| Dorman - Premium | CB14184PR |
| Hollander | 512-58612R |
| Hollander | 512-58613L |
| BMW | 32106774318 |
| BMW | 31121096221 |
| Mevotech Supreme | K500348 |
| Mevotech Supreme | MS10516 |
| Mevotech Supreme | GS10191 |
| Mevotech Supreme | CMS10191 |
| Mevotech Supreme | FGS10515 |
| Mevotech Supreme | MS10808 |
| Mevotech Supreme | GS10190 |
| Mevotech Supreme | MS10809 |
| Mevotech Supreme | MS10191 |
| Mevotech Supreme | MS10190 |
| Mevotech Supreme | 5CB10158 |
| Mevotech Supreme | RMS10191 |
| Mevotech Supreme | CMS10190 |
| Mevotech Supreme | MS10515 |
| BMW | 31-12-9-063-163 |
This item may be interchangeable with parts from other brands with the above part numbers. This information is provided only for reference and does not guarantee that the item you are purchasing is identical to parts with part numbers from the brands listed above. To confirm that this item fits your vehicle, use the above "Check Vehicle Fit" option.
Lifetime Warranty
This item is backed by our limited lifetime warranty. In the event that this item should fail due to manufacturing defects during intended use, we will replace the part free of charge. This warranty covers the cost of the part only.
FREE Shipping is standard on orders shipped to the lower 48 States (Contiguous United States). Standard shipping charges apply to Hawaii and Alaska.
Shipping is not available to a P.O. Box, APO/FPO/DPO addresses, US Territories, or Canada for this item.
Expedited is available on checkout to the United States, excluding Alaska, Hawaii.
Final shipping costs are available at checkout.
Created on:
Tools used
Brought to you by 1AAuto.com your source for quality replacement parts and the best service on the internet.
Hi. I'm Mike form 1A Auto, and I hope this How-To video help you out. The next time you need parts for your vehicle, think of 1AAuto.com.
To test your tie rod, what you'd want to do is lift one of your front wheels up and grab it by the sides of the tire there and kind of move it back and forth. If you feel play more than just the steering rack moving back and forth, then that's usually your tie rod is bad.
Tools you'll need are jack and jack stands, 18mm and 19mm sockets, a ratchet with a pipe or a breaker bar for some extra leverage, two large adjustable wrenches, 8mm and 18mm wrenches, tie rod fork, and a torque wrench, as well as a large hammer.
Start out by removing the front wheel, and if you don't have air tools like I do you'll want to loosen the lug nuts with the wheel on the ground, then raise your vehicle with a jack, support it with a jack stand and take the wheel off the rest of the way. Turn the wheel to make it easier to access the tie rod. Okay. So before you disassemble the tie rod, what you want to do is you want to measure from a fixed point, which I'll choose the end of the boot right here, then you want to measure to the middle of the tie rod. Okay. So, again, you're measuring from a fixed point on the rack itself, which is this clip here, to the middle of the tie rod. And you're going to set your new tie rod up that same length.
So here I just take a couple of measurements to make sure. Mine are measuring eleven and three-eighths, but it's obviously going to be different for each vehicle. Okay. Now, the tie rod is held in. There's a lock nut here. You need to grab that with a large adjustable wrench, then hold onto the tie rod itself in that slot and loosen that lock nut. Then there is a little nut here that holds the stud on, and then you need to separate the tie rod from the steering.
You put one arm through the nut here, this bolts onto the tie rod. Turn that nut about a quarter of a turn. This bolt is 18 millimeters. Take an easy way out ... so if you don't have an impact wrench you'll want to use a breaker bar or a ratchet with a piece of pipe to give you some extra leverage. Now, here, you can use either a tie rod tool only because there is limited clearance between the tie rod and the vacuum plate here. I'm actually going to use a fork. You just basically drive this fork right in that separates the tie rod and the steering knuckle.
Once you get the tie rod separated from the steering knuckle, you just turn it counter clockwise and get it off of the steering rack. Okay. The new tie rod from 1A Auto comes with a bolt, take the bolt off, and you put it back on.
Okay. It is kind of a reverse procedure. You thread the tie rod in, measure from the same point, from the end, I chose the end of the boot on the rack, make sure it measures the same distance. I take a couple of measurements. Make sure you do not twist the shaft that comes out of the steering rack because that also will change your alignment.
Speaking of alignments, we do recommend that you have an alignment performed after you do a replacement like this. Once you have the measurement correct, then you can put the tie rod back into the steering knuckle and start the bolt on there.
Okay. Now, that nut is a lock nut, so what you will want to do, or what I'm doing here, is holding the stud of the tie rod with a 8-millimeter wrench, and then using an 18-millimeter wrench to tighten up the nut.
Okay. So once I've gotten the 18-millimeter wrench tight, I grab another wrench, hook it on there, and just give it another good pull, tighten it up more before I torque it.
When I torque it to 65-foot pounds. Now, you want to put your wrench on the inner tire rod and get this locking nut back out against the outer tie rod, and then lock onto the outer tie rod and tighten so it will lock up against it.
Okay. Now, you can turn your wheels back straight, and then put your wheel and tire back on, start the lug nuts by hand first, then just preliminarily tighten them. Okay. With the car back on the ground, set your torque wrench to 90- to 95-foot pound and tighten your lug nuts using a star pattern as your guide.
We hope this helps you out. Brought to you by www.1AAuto.com, your source for quality replacement parts and the best service on the internet. Please feel free to call us toll free, 888-844-3393. We're the company that serves you on the internet and in person.
Tools used
What's up, guys? I'm Andy from 1A Auto. In this video, I'm going to show you how to replace the front lower inner ball joint on this 2001 BMW 325xi. If you need this part or other parts for your vehicle, click the link in the description and head over to 1AAuto.com.
I raised the vehicle. We're using a two-post lift. If you're doing this at your house, you can use a jack and jack stands. I'm going to remove the tire to gain extra access. It's going to make it a little bit easier. I'm going to use the 17 millimeter socket and an air gun. You can always use a breaker bar. Take these lug nuts out, or lug studs out. When I get to the last one, I'm just going to hold the wheel so it doesn't fall. Take the last one out, and grab the wheel, pull it off.
I want to take this nut off and also the nut right here. They're pretty rusty, so I'm going to use some rust penetrant. Spray it down. Soak it for a little bit. Right there and right there. Now, I'm going to take a 18 millimeter wrench, go over this nut. I'm going to loosen this nut up. Once I get a couple turns on the box side, then I'll switch to the open side, and take this nut off. Get that nut loosened up. Sometimes, you can't get it off, because the axle's in the way. We're just going to leave it loose like that.
I'm going to separate the ball joint from the knuckle, right here. You can do this a couple of ways. Sometimes, there's a clamp that you can slide in there, and it pushes down on the ball joint. What we're going to use is a fork. We're going to try that method. You could also take a hammer and just tap on the knuckle itself, just be careful. You don't want to break anything. I'm just going to use this pickle fork and a hammer. Don't worry about that. Slide that in there. We'll separate it. Now, the reason why you might not want to use a pickle fork is, generally, it rips the boot on the lower control arm, or on the ball joint. Keep that in mind, if you're going to reuse the ball joint. You might not want to use this method. There we go, separated. Pull that nut out of the way.
If you're doing this job and you don't have an impact gun, what you're going to want to do is take a 22 millimeter wrench, get on this nut right here, and you're going to want to crack that free first. Otherwise, we're going to loosen up these two bolts right here. Just use an 18 millimeter socket, loosen these up. Do the same on this one. Those bolts are loose. I can take that one out. This one, I can't get out until I break this free. Just take a pry bar, put it under here, and just pry this away. Then, I can get the bolt out. Got to twist this a little bit, get that bolt out. Now, I can get a gun on here, take that nut off. Then, I'm going to take this nut off and just use a 22 millimeter socket and an impact gun. All right, got that off.
If you're going to reuse this ball joint, you're going to need to use a ball joint separator. What it does is it clamps in here and pushes up on the ball joint. If you're not going to reuse it, then you can either use a hammer on here or a pickle fork. I'm just going to use a hammer, try to break it free. If not, I'm going to use a pickle fork. All right, so I'm just hammering it off. I don't have enough stability with the arms, so I'm actually going to use a pickle fork. Just slide it in here, just be careful not to hit the CB shaft. There we go. Now, I did just put the nut back on, just so it didn't go flying. Just put it on a couple threads and slide it up.
Here's the old part. Here's the new front lower inner ball joint from 1AAuto.com. The shape is the same. Comes with a new nut. Take the nut off. This is just a dust cover. It's covered for shipping. Take that off. The boot is the same. Get yours at 1AAuto.com and you'll be ready to rock and roll.
I'll take this inner ball joint. Take the nut off here. Just slide that in position. I've these two bolts, get these bolts lined up. Actually, it's a good idea to get the in board one in first. Get that lined up. This inside bolt, I'm not going to be able to get a torque wrench on, because the arm's in the way. Otherwise, you want to torque this 57 foot pounds. I'll do the same with that one. With a 18 millimeter socket and a torque wrench, I'll torque this bolt to 57 foot pounds.
I'll take this ball joint nut, get that lined up. I'm going to take the 22 millimeter wrench and tighten this up, but the ball joint stud is actually spinning, so I'll take a 6 millimeter hex bit and put it on my ratchet. That's going to hold the stud from spinning. I'll tighten this up. I'm going to tighten this down. Now, if you're able to get a torque wrench on there, which it's very difficult, you could torque that down to 57 foot pounds. We're going to line up the lower control arm, put the ball joint through here. Take the nut, get this started. All right, then I'm going to take a 19 millimeter wrench, tighten this nut right here. Now, it's next to impossible to get a torque wrench on here. Maybe, if you used a crow's foot, you might be able to torque this. You're going to want to torque this to 48 foot pounds. So, just do the best you can.
Now, I'm going to put the wheel on. Just line up the holes. Take one of the lug studs, get that started. I can grab the other ones, and I'll just tighten these down. Then, I'll lower the vehicle and torque them. All right, now I'm going to use the 17 millimeter socket and a torque wrench. I'm going to torque these lug bolts to 95 foot pounds. I'm going to torque them in a star patterns so that the wheel gets tightened down evenly. Then, I'm just going to go around again, just double check. We're good to go.
Thanks for watching. If you want the parts to do it yourself, check out 1AAuto.com, the place for DIY auto repair.
Tools used
What's up, guys? I'm Andy from 1A Auto. In this video, I'm going to show you how to replace the front lower control arms on this 2001 BMW 325xi. If you need this part, or other parts for your vehicle, click the link in the description and head over to 1AAuto.com.
I raised the vehicle. We're using a two post lift. If you're doing this at your house, you can use a jack and jack stands. I'm going to remove the tire to gain extra access. It's going to make it a little bit easier.
I'm going to use a 17 millimeter socket and an air gun. You can always use a breaker bar. Take these lug nuts out, or lug studs out. When I get to the last one I'm just going to hold the wheel so it doesn't fall. Take the last one out, and grab the wheel, pull it off.
So, I want to take this nut off, and also the nut right here, but they're pretty rusty, so I'm going to use some rust penetrant, spray it down, soak it for a little bit, right there, and right there. Now I'm going to take a 18 millimeter wrench, go over this nut. I'm going to loosen this nut up. This will get a couple turns on the box side, then I'll switch to the open side and take this nut off, get that nut loosened up.
And sometimes you can't get it off because the axle's in the way, and we're just going to leave it loose like that. So, I'm going to separate the ball joint from the knuckle, right here.
You can do this a couple of ways. Sometimes there's a clamp that you can slide in there and it pushes down on the ball joint. What we're going to use is a fork. We're going to try that method.
You could also take a hammer and just tap on the knuckle itself. Just be careful. You don't want to break anything. I'm just going to use this pickle fork and a hammer. Don't worry about that. Slide that in there, and we'll separate it.
Now, the reason why you might not want to use a pickle fork is generally it rips the boot on the lower control arm, or on the ball joint. So, keep that in mind. If you're going to reuse the ball point, you might not want to use this method.
There we go, separated. Pull that nut out of the way. So, if you're doing this job and you don't have an impact gun, what you're going to want to do is take a 22 millimeter wrench, get on this nut right here, and you're going to want to crack that free first. Otherwise, we're going to loosen up these two bolts right here, just use an 18 millimeter socket, loosen these up, do the same on this one.
Those bolts are loose. I can take that one out. This one I can't get out until I break this free. Just take a pry bar under here, just pry this away and I can get the bolt out. Just got to twist this a little bit, pull that bolt out, and now we can get a gun on here, take that nut off. I'm going to take this nut off and just use a 22 millimeter socket and an impact gun. All right, got that off.
If you're going to reuse this ball joint, you're going to need to use a ball joint separator. What it does is clamps in here and pushes up on the ball joint. If you're not going to reuse it, then you can either use a hammer on here, or a pickle fork. So, I'm just going to use a hammer, try to break it free, if not, I'm going to use a pickle fork.
All right, so just hammering it off I don't have enough stability with the arm, so I'm actually going to use a pickle fork, slide it in here, just be careful not to hit the CV shaft. There we go. Now, I did just put the nut back on, just so it didn't go flying, just put it on a couple threads and slide it out.
So, I need to access these bolts underneath here. This shield is in my way, so I'm going to remove the shield. I'm going to use a eight millimeter socket, extension, and a ratchet, but I'm just going to hammer this on. These are pretty rusted. Tap that on, use the ratchet, loosen it up. Take that one out. There's another one up there.
All right, so I got this out. You may have to bend it a little bit to get this out. There may be another fastener right there. This one doesn't have that, but, so take that out.
So, that heat shield is just on the passenger's side, where the exhaust is. The driver's side does not have that heat shield there. So, if you're doing the driver's side, it's not as hard.
So, what we need is a 16 millimeter socket and a ratchet, and then we're going to take these two bolts out, right here. There we go.
Right, so the inside one, the one closer to the center of the vehicle, was getting pretty tight pretty close to the exhaust, so I had to switch to a ratchet wrench. So, just use a ratchet wrench on that [inaudible 00:06:44] one.
Oh, all right, and that's loose. They're both loose. Make sure you support the lower control arm so that doesn't happen. I'll take the wrench off and slide it out.
So, we need to separate this bushing from the lower control arm. A good idea to do before you take this off is just take a marker and mark this on the control arm so that you at least index roughly where it went before.
Then we're going to put the control arm in a vice like this, and there's different types of pullers you can use. You could try a different two jaw puller, a three jaw puller, or some other. Be creative. They do make a special puller for this. I don't have it, so I'm just using this front end puller, and I'm going to tighten this down. This is just going to separate this from the control arm, and it came right off.
Here's the old control arm. Here's the new control arm from 1AAuto.com. As you can see, the shape is the same, has the same machined components. The end to go into the bushing, this machined hole for the ball joint, and the other ball joint, comes with a ball joint and a nut. Take that off. This is just a cover for shipping. Get yours at 1AAuto.com and you can do it yourself.
So, I have my mark right there, so I want to slide this on like that, in this area, jus transfer the mark over to the new one, so that's good right there, so we know which way it goes. I have seen some people put grease on this. I don't think grease is a great idea, so I am just going to use a little bit of soapy water, because then it will evaporate eventually.
Slide this on. Take a piece of wood, and just use a hammer, and hammer it on.
Now, the measurement we want is from right here to the top of there. We want it to be 170 millimeters. I don't have a millimeters tape measure, so that's a little more than six and a half inches, so, just get it close. I'm just going to hammer it a little bit more. That's about six and a half inches, so we're good.
I just line this up, take the bolts, get them started. You might have to push this out of your way a little bit. All right, so I got those two bolts started, now I'll take my 16 millimeter ratchet wrench, get the inboard bolt snug first, and then the outer one.
I'm going to tighten these bolts down. If you can get a torque wrench in there to 44 foot pounds, it's a little tight on that other one, so I can at least torque the outer one.
I'll take this inner ball joint, take the nut off here, just slide that in position and these two bolts, get these bolts lined up. Actually, it's a good idea to get the inboard one in first. Get that lined up.
So, this inside bolt I'm not going to be able to get a torque wrench on because the arm's in the way, otherwise you want to torque this to 57 foot pounds, and I'll do the same with that one. With an 18 millimeter socket and the torque wrench, I'll torque this bolt to 57 foot pounds.
Now I'll take this ball joint nut, get that lined up. I'm going to take a 22 millimeter wrench and tighten this up, but the ball joint stud is actually spinning, so I'll take a six millimeter hex bit and put it on my ratchet, and that's going to hold the stud from spinning, and I'll tighten this up.
Now I'm going to tighten this down. Now, if you're able to get a torque wrench on there, which it's very difficult, you can torque that down to 57 foot pounds.
I'm going to line up the lower control arm ball joint through here. Take the nut, get this started.
Right, then I'm going to take a 19 millimeter wrench, tighten this nut right here. Now, it's next to impossible to get a torque wrench on here. Maybe if you used a crow's foot you might be able to torque this, but you're going to want to torque this to 48 foot pounds. So, just do the best you can.
Now we'll take this shield, slide it back in position, take the bolts, or the screws, get these started, and if there was any other bolts that you had that were keeping this on, put those back in. Just take an eight millimeter socket, extension, and a ratchet, just snug them up.
Good, now I'm going to put the wheel on. Just line up the holes, take one of the lug studs, get that started, and I can grab the other ones. Now I'll just tighten this down. And then I'm going to lower the vehicle and torque them.
Right, now I'm going to use a 17 millimeter socket and a torque wrench. I'm going to torque these lug bolts to 95 foot pounds. I'm going to torque them in a star pattern so that the wheel gets tightened down evenly, then I'm just going to go around again, just double check.
We're good to go.
Thanks for watching. Visit 1AAuto.com, your place for DIY auto repairs, for great parts, great service, and more content.
PSA56142
Perfect fit.
The kit arrived just as expected. All parts were as described. Everything fit. Good quality! Car handles much better. Side note: check your boots and order separately as needed. I missed that part.
The parts came quick and were exactly as described. The front end kit has been on my car for a week now and I haven't had any issues with it. I will update this review in 6 or 12 months and we will see how long they lasted and if my review stays the same.
