Replaces
Part Details
Specifications
Attention California Customers:
WARNING: This product can expose you to chemicals including Lead and Lead Compounds, which are known to the State of California to cause cancer, and birth defects or other reproductive harm. For more information, go to www.P65Warnings.ca.gov.
Lifetime Warranty
This item is backed by our limited lifetime warranty. In the event that this item should fail due to manufacturing defects during intended use, we will replace the part free of charge. This warranty covers the cost of the part only.
FREE Shipping is standard on Orders shipped to the lower 48 States (Contiguous United States). Standard shipping charges apply to Hawaii, Alaska and US Territories. Shipping is not available to Canada.
Expedited is available on checkout to the United States, excluding Alaska, Hawaii and US Territories as well as P.O. Boxes and APO/FPO/DPO addresses. Final shipping costs are available at checkout.
Created on:
Tools used
What's up, guys? I'm Andy from 1A Auto. In this video I'm going to show you how to replace the thermostat housing on this 2001 BMW 325xi. If you need this part or other parts for your vehicle, click the link in the description and head over to 1AAuto.com.
With the trunk open, over on the right side or the passenger's side, there should be a cover that goes right here. This vehicle doesn't have one, but you're going to want to remove that cover. Battery is located right here. First thing I'm going to do is take a 10 millimeter socket and a ratchet, loosen up this nut for the negative terminal. That's loose. Slide off the cable, slide it out of the way.
I'm going to take these push pins out right here. I'm just going to use some side cutters. Get this center pin, pull that up, and then slide it out. Be careful not to cut that. Get those out. Just grab this piece, slide it out. We're going to disconnect this connector right here. Just push down on that. Slide that out. There's another connector right here. I'm going to slide the wiring out first, just like that. And the connector will come out. Just slide that to the side like that.
I'm going to take a T25 and a ratchet. Take this screw out right here. Just going to use this trim tool from 1AAuto.com, take this push clip out. Get in there. Pull that out. All right, now that is loose. But what we need to do is we need to take the fan off, because the fan has to come out with the shroud as one. What we need to do to take the fan off is we need to disconnect the fan clutch from the engine side. This is attached to one of the pulleys right there. So sometimes these are somewhat difficult to get off. So what we're going to do is use this tool. We actually sell this at 1AAuto.com with many different sizes. This happens to be the 32 millimeter. That's going to slide on there. And then we slide this on. And with a pneumatic air hammer, we're going to give it a couple bumps, and it's going to loosen up that nut and we should be able to get it off.
All right, so now I'm going to take the tool. Now this fan clutch happens to be on their in reverse thread, so it's going to seem like you're tightening it, but you're actually loosening it. So it will go like that. Put our air hammer on there. Make sure you wear hearing protection and eye protection.
All right, so that's loose. Took a little bit of effort, but I got it. Now you can slide the tool off. Just move it a little bit. There we go. You should be able to just spin it off like that. Might need the tool once in a while. But you could use a wrench that fits, 32 millimeter wrench. All right, now I'm just going to keep loosening this up. Be careful, you don't want the fan to fall. You don't want it to smash into the radiator, and especially if you're going to reuse the radiator. If you're replacing it, it's not a big deal.
So, as I get closer to the end, I'll just move the fan and just grab the blade. And there we go. Now I can slide this right up. Just like that. Just going to disconnect this connector to the mass airflow sensor. Push down on this tab, wiggle it out. Take a straight blade screwdriver, loosen up this clamp right here. Should be good. Can push that snorkel off right there. And there's all these clips holding the top of the air box off. I'm just going to take the top off. And this last one over here, it's tricky to get to. Pull the dip stick out of the way. And just grab the air box, pull the air filter out.
I'm going to take these two bolts out and use a 10 millimeter socket, extension, and an electric ratchet. You can use a regular ratchet if you don't have an electric one or an air powered one. Loosen them up, take them out. Now just grab the air box, slide it up. And this wire is on it. There's a little grommet right here, just try to slide that out. Just try to slide this off. All right. Take that off. And just slide this out of the way.
I'm going to pull this fill cap off before we drain the coolant, make sure the engine is cold. You don't want to take this off while the engine is hot or you're going to get splashed in the face with coolant. Pull that off. And now we can raise the vehicle and drain the coolant.
Underneath the vehicle, there may be a cover right here. You're going to have to remove it. There should be some fasteners there, there, and there, and there. And the, also back there. Passengers there, there and there and there. And then, also back there. This vehicle doesn't have it, so we're just going to start right here. I need to loosen up this drain right here. This radiator is not the original radiator, so I believe you're going to have a different size socket to use if you have the OEM radiator. For this one, it's a 22 millimeter socket. I'm going to use an extension and a ratchet. Loosen this up. Make sure you put a drain bucket underneath. I'm just going to remove this. And there we go. That coolant looks nasty.
To help the coolant drain out a little faster, I'm going to open this bleeder screw right here. Just use a straight blade screwdriver. Loosen this up. All right, now we want to remove this side from the radiator. I'm just going to take a straight blade screwdriver, slide up under this retaining clip right there, and then there's also one right here. Just like that. Now I can just grab this hose and just wiggle it a little bit. All right, pry that off. That's good. Now I'll take the screwdriver and just take this hose off completely. And slide the clip out, just wiggle this back and forth. Pull it up.
Disconnect this connector right here, push on that, slide it out. Make sure you have your drain bucket underneath. And I'm going to pop this hose off. Just use a pic, slide up on the lock, and grab the hose, and try to wiggle it out. All right. Just a little bit of coolant, not too much. Now we're going to take this part of the hose off right here and just use a straight blade screwdriver or a pic. Pull the retainer out. You don't have to pop this off completely. Just happened to do that. And just grab it and wiggle it down. There we go. Slide it down and slide it out.
We removed this hose completely. You don't have to remove the hose completely, you could just pop it off on this side to do the thermostat. We're going to disconnect this connector right here. Just push on this little lock tab and slide it out. I'm just going to take a 13 millimeter socket and a ratchet, remove this bolt right here. There's four bolts in total. This one happens to be a 13. Pull that bolt out.
All right, I'm going to take this nut off because this bracket goes over the thermostat. I'm just going to use a 11 millimeter socket and a ratchet. Grab the bracket. So, this bracket, I can't get this bracket out. I'm just going to leave it loose like that. And then there's three 10 millimeter bolts I'm going to take out. Use a 10 millimeter socket and a ratchet. Now take these two out. Now, I did move my drain bucket underneath the engine so that if any of the coolant comes out you can catch it. All right, take this last bolt out. Now you can grab the thermostat housing, and just pull, slide it out of the way.
Here's the old part. Here's the new thermostat housing from 1AAuto.com. Has the same shape as the old one, has the same connector, has the same thermostat on the backside, and gasket. Get yours at 1AAuto.com and you'll be ready to rock and roll.
Just want to clean up this area around where the thermostat goes. Just going to use a razor blade, you can use a scraper. And you can wipe it down with a rag. Use a little brake parts cleaner on the rag, and just make sure the surface looks pretty clean. Now we're going to install the thermostat. I am just going to put a little bit of pipe sealer on these bolts. This is just personal preference. You don't have to do this. It works as a little thread locker, like a very light coat. Just do that on all the bolts. Take the thermostat, get lined up behind that bracket, and put the bigger bolt right here. Get that started and then I'll start these other ones.
I'll take a 13 millimeter socket, snug this one down. And 10 millimeter socket for the other ones. Now I'm going to torque the smaller bolts with a 10 millimeter socket and a torque wrench to 80 inch-pounds. Now I'm going to torque the bigger bolt. I'm going to use the 13 millimeter socket and a torque range. I'm still on inch-pounds. I'm going to torque this to 195 inch-pounds, which is equal to about 16 foot-pounds.
Just put this nut back on this bracket here. Then I'll take a 11 millimeter socket and a ratchet, just snug this one up. That's good. Take this wire. Reposition this the way it goes, and connect the connector. Lock it in place.
I'll take the hose, slide it in position, and just lock it in place on the lower radiator hose right there. It'll lock in place. Take the connector, line it up, lock that in place. We can take the upper portion of the hose, and slide it over here, lock it in place.
All right, take this pipe, this upper hose, and just line that up right there. Lock it in place. And then, over here, line this up over here. And just wiggle it a little bit. Lock that in place. Make sure this reservoir is locked in too. That's good. So these have to go on together. Just slide this in position. Once you get this close, I'm going to start to tighten up the fan. Now these fan blades, the fan clutch is reverse thread, so it's almost like you're going to be loosening it. There's really no easy way to do this. Just do it carefully. Once you get it started, it's a little bit easier. Make sure the fan shroud is in properly. That's good.
All right. If you have the ability to torque this nut for the fan, you're going to torque that between 22 and 29 foot-pounds. I don't really have that ability, so I'm just going to put this tool on there and just give it a little tap. That should be good. Right here there's a push pin that's going to go back in here. Slide that in position and lock it down. And on this side we're going to put this screw right here. Then I'm going to use a T25 and a electric ratchet. Tighten this down, just snug. I'll position this wiring harness right here. And we'll plug the connector in right here. Lock that in place. Now we're just going to slide this side of the lower air box in here. Yours may have something that this connects to. This vehicle doesn't. Just slides in position. And then this lower part slides there. And make sure these holes are lined up. Take these two bolts and get these started.
Take a 10 millimeter socket and a ratchet and tighten these down. I'm using an electric ratchet. If you don't have an electric ratchet, just use a manual one. Take the air filter and reinstall it. Now take the top part of the air box. I'm going to slide it onto the snorkel first. Just like that. And then there's all these clips. Take these clips, lock this part down, connect the mass air flow sensor, or air flow meter. Now we're going to slide this clamp right here. Take a straight blade screwdriver and tighten it down. Just snug, not too tight. Give it a shake, make sure it's good. Take this piece, slide this into the air box, just like that. And there's retainers right here. Take those push pins and lock them down.
Then we can take the negative side. Connect the negative side. Take the same 10 millimeter socket and ratchet, tighten it up. That's good. At this point, if you had that cover, you're going to want to put the cover back where it goes.
When adding the coolant, we're going to use a funnel. And you want to make sure you add the appropriate type of coolant. You can check your owner's manual. There is BMW specific coolant. Generally, it's blue coolant. We're going to add, we're going to fill up the reservoir. We're going to take this bleeder screw out. Just use a straight blade screwdriver or Phillips head. Just move that funnel. You could probably just loosen this up a little bit, or you can take it all the way out. Just like that. Set it aside. You want to fill this all the way up to the top and have coolant come bubbling out of the bleeder hole. Once it's coming out of there, we're going to re-install the bleeder screw. It is plastic, so be careful, you don't want to strip this.
Get this started again. Then close that bleeder screw. And then you're going to adjust the level in here. Now there is a little dipstick in here. When this is full, this is going to be all the way at the top. Now, you can check it right here. It shows where the min and the max is, so you want to adjust that accordingly. You can add coolant or take out coolant. You can use a turkey baster or some type of fluid pump to suck the fluid out. Then you want to let it run. You want to leave the heat on. When you leave the heat on, if you don't have heat, you're going to want to crack this open a little bit, and just make sure you get some of the coolant out. It's probably a good idea to shut the engine off, let it cool down, and readjust your coolant.
When you're done, when the fluid level's at the appropriate level, take the cap, put it back on. Make sure you monitor your temp gauge while you're running the vehicle. If you run the vehicle for about 10 minutes, the temp gauge should go right in the middle there. If it starts going to the red, shut the vehicle off and start over. Bleed the system again.
Thanks for watching. Visit 1AAuto.com, your place for DIY auto repairs, for great parts, great service, and more content.
Tools used
What's up guys? I'm Andy from 1A Auto. In this video, I'm going to show you how to replace the water pump in this 2001 BMW 325Xi. If you need this part or other parts for your vehicle, click the link in the description and head over to 1aauto.com.
With the trunk open over on the right side or the passenger side, there should be a cover that goes right here. This vehicle doesn't have one, but you're going to want to remove that cover. Battery is located right here. First thing I'm going to do is take a 10 millimeter socket and ratchet. Loosen up this nut for the negative terminal. And that's loose. Slide off the cable, slide it out of the way. I'm going to take these push pins out right here. I'm just going to use some side cutters. Get this center pin, pull that up, and then slide it out.
Be careful not to cut that. Get those out. Just grab this piece, slide it out. We're going to disconnect this connector right here. Just push down on that, slide that out. There's another connector right here. I'm going to slide the wiring out first just like that and then the connector will come out. Just slide that to the side like that. I'm going to take a T25 and a ratchet. Take this screw out right here. I'm just going to use this trim tool from 1aauto.com. Take this push clip out, put it in there. Pull that out.
All right now that is loose but what we need to do is, we need to take the fan off because the fan has to come out with the shroud as one. And what we need to do to take the fan off is, we need to disconnect the fan clutch from the engine side. This is attached to one of the pulleys right there. So sometimes these are somewhat difficult to get off. So what we're going to do is use this tool, they actually sell this at 1aauto.com with many different sizes. This happens to be the 32 millimeter. That's going to slide on there and then we slide this on. And with a pneumatic air hammer, we're going to give it a couple of bumps and it's going to loosen up that nut and we should be able to get it off. All right, so now I'm going to take the tool and this fan clutch happens to be on their reverse thread. So it's going to seem like you're tightening it, but you're actually loosening it.
So we'll go like that. Put our air hammer on there. Make sure you wear hearing protection and eye protection. All right, so that's loose. Took a little bit of effort but I got it. Now you can slide the tool off. Just move it a little bit. There we go. You should be able to just spin it off like that. Might need the tool once in awhile. Or you could use a wrench that fits 32 millimeter wrench.
All right, now I'm just going to keep loosening this up. Be careful, you don't want the fan to fall. You don't want it to smash into the radiator. Especially if you're going to reuse the radiator. If you're replacing it, it's not a big deal. It's fine. As I get closer to the end, I'll just move the fan and just grab the blade and there we go. We can slide this right up. Just like that. I'm just going to disconnect this connector to the mass airflow sensor. Push down on this tab. Wiggle it out. Take a straight blade screwdriver, loosen up this clamp right here. Should be good.
Push that snorkel off right there and there's all these clips holding the top of the air box off. I'm just going to take the top off and this last one over here. That one's kind of tricky to get to. Pull the dipstick out of the way. You just grab the air box, pull the air filter out. I'm going to take these two bolts out and use a 10 millimeter socket extension and an electric ratchet. You can use a regular ratchet if you don't have an electric one or an air powered one. Loosen them. Take them out. Now just grab the air box. Slide it up. This wire is on it. This little grommet right here, just try to slide that out. Just try to slide this off.
All right, take that off. And just slide this out of the way. I'm going to pull this fill cap off before we drain the coolant. Make sure the engine is cold. You don't want to take this off while the engine's hot or you're going to get splashed in the face with coolant. Pull that off and now we can raise the vehicle and drain the cooler. Underneath the vehicle there may be a cover right here, you're going to have to remove it. There should be some fasteners there, there, there and there, and then also back there. This vehicle doesn't have it, so we're just going to start right here. I need to loosen up this drain right here. This radiator is not the original radiator, so I believe you're going to have a different size socket to use if you have the OEM radiator. For this one, it's a 22 millimeter socket. I'm going to use an extension and a ratchet. Loosen this up. Make sure you put a drain bucket underneath.
I'm just going to remove this. Here we go. That coolant looks nasty. To help the coolant drain out a little faster, I'm going to open this bleeder screw right here. Just use a straight blade screwdriver. Loosen this up. Right, now we want to remove this side from the radiator. I'm just going to take a straight blade screwdriver, slide up under this retaining clip right there, and then there's also one right here. Just like that. I can just grab this hose and just wiggle it a little bit. Right, pull that off. That's good. Now take the screwdriver, just take this hose off completely.
And slide the clip out, just wiggle this back and forth and pull it up. Disconnect this connector right here. Just push on that, slide it out. Make sure you have your drain bucket underneath and I'm going to pop this hose off. Just use a pick, slide up on the lock, grab the hose and try to wiggle it out. All right, just a little bit of coolant, not too much. Now we're going to take this part of the hose off right here and just use a straight blade screwdriver or a pick. Pull the retainer out. You don't have to pop this off completely. Just happened to do that, and just grab it and wiggle it down. There we go.
Slide it down and slide it out. Before we take the belt off, it's going to be easier to remove these bolts. You don't want to remove them completely. We just want to loosen them up, so I'm just going to take a 10 millimeter wrench. Just loosen these bolts up. I'm going to take a 16 millimeter socket and a ratchet, and I want it on tightening. And I'm going to go down here and get on the tensioner right there. You could use a serpentine belt tool as well, and then I can loosen up the belt just like that. So I can loosen it by pushing it to the right, just like that. Almost like I'm tightening a bolt.
It's how it looks from underneath. With that loosened up, I can grab the belt and slide it off the crank and then slide it off the AC compressor. And there's the belt. I'm going to take this serpentine belt off. What I'm going to need is a hex key. This happens to be a five millimeter hex key and I'm going to use this 16 millimeter socket and a ratchet. Put the ratchet on tighten, and then right here on the tensioner is a little area you can put the socket and then you're going to tighten it like you're tightening a bolt. That's going to loosen up the tension on the belt.
We can take this hex key, slide it in that position. That's going to lock the tensioner. Let that go. We can grab the belt, slide it off the idler, slide it off the alternator right there. Can pull our socket away, pull it off the water pump, off the tensioner, off the crank and off the power steering pump. Just like that. All right, so now I'm going to take these bolts out. I had loosened them before we took the belt off, so they're all loose. If they're still tight for you, just loosen them up with the wrench. Take these out, slide the pulley off. This one's rusted on there a little bit. Just going to take a little hammer, give it a little tap.
Now we're replacing the water pump, so this isn't a big deal. You probably want to be careful doing this, if you were not replacing the water pump. There we go. Came right off. So I want to remove these four nuts right there, right there, right there and right there. We're just going to take a 10 millimeter socket and a ratchet. Take these off. When we take these off, I'm still going to have the drain bucket underneath here in case any coolant comes out.
Loosen them all up first and tick them off by hand. Take that last nut off. So there's two holes on the side of the water pump that are threaded. I'm just going to take some brake parts cleaner, spray it in those holes, clean them out. They're pretty dirty because that's how we're going to remove the water pump. So I'm going to take two bolts. If you want to know the size of the bolts, can take one of the nuts that you took off the water pump and see if it threads into those bolts, and that should work. So we'll take those and thread one in on this side and then one in the other hole. Then depending on what size your bolts are, I have a 10 millimeter socket I'm going to use and a ratchet and I'm just going to tighten them down evenly. Side to side. Make sure you have your drain bucket underneath because some more coolant's going to come out.
As you tighten these down it's going to push the pump out. Just like that. Just go back and forth. At some point you'll be able to rocket it and just slide it out. And there's the pump. Here's the old part. Here's the new water pump from 1aauto.com. It is a machine the same as the old one. The impeller is metal on the new one, so it's going to last longer than the plastic one. Face is the same. There's a little protector on here for shipping, so this doesn't get damaged. You can take that off. Get yours at 1aauto.com. You'll be ready to rock and roll.
All right, I'm just going to clean this up with a little brake parts cleaner. Just the area right here in a scuff pad, a very non-abrasive scuff pad. You don't want to make any big scratches. Just take a rag, clean that up. The water pump has this O-ring right here. I am going to use some white lithium grease. This is just personal preference. You don't have to do this, but I feel like it's going to make the seal go in there a little easier, so if you put a little white lithium grease around here, that'll prevent the seal from rolling and it's going to be okay in the coolant system.
Take the water pump. Now, this little spot right there, that is going to go facing down. That's just a freeze plug. So that will be facing down. Slide the water pump in. Just rock it back and forth a little bit. Then slip it in. Take the nuts, install the nuts. Now I'm going to torque these with a torque wrench and a 10 millimeter socket. I'm going to tighten these to 84 inch pounds. Make sure you're on inch pounds, not foot pounds. I'm just going to do it in a cross pattern. It doesn't matter though.
And we're good. I'm just going to take the pulley and just take the little scuff pad, just clean this rust out. You can take a little sandpaper. It's really isn't too bad, but just to get a little bit of that out. We want to line these bolt holes up with the holes on the actual water pump. Now if you have the bolt holes like that, those are closer together. You have to have the pulley like that. Otherwise if you have them further apart, hold the pulley like that. Line that up, take the bolts, get one started, get the other ones started. And then I'm going to tighten these down with a 10 millimeter socket and a torque wrench. I'm going to torque these to 89 inch pounds. You can use a screwdriver to prevent the pulley from spinning.
Just line it up in between one of the bolts in the shaft or the pump, or you can install the belt and try to hold it that way. But this works as well. We're going to take the belt, slide it over the crank pulley down below, and then with this other side, go over the power steering pump pulley over there. Then it's going to come around on the tensioner side, on the tensioner pulley. Just like that. We'll go over the water pump. We'll go over the alternator over here, just like this, and then we want to go below the idler pulley.
Now we're going to have to put the socket and the ratchet on the tensioner and relieve some of the tension to get that all the way on. So I'm going to take the 16 millimeter socket and the ratchet, and then you need to have this on tighten. So we're going to loosen the tension on this, slide the belt underneath there. Make sure that's all lined up. When that's all lined up, then I can pull this pin out of the tensioner, and let it go. Double check your belt, go around all the pulleys make sure it didn't pop off, down near the power steering pump or the alternator. That looks good. It's going to be a little bit easier to install the belt from underneath. So we're going to do that. Just take the belts, slide it over the AC compressor and slide it over the pulley for the tensioner and then over the crank pulley.
Make sure these are all lined up and that's good. Just like that. Make sure those are good. Take a 16 millimeter socket and a ratchet, slide it into the tensioner, relief the pressure and then slide this pin out. Or if you used a hex key, pull that hex key up. Double check that. Looks like everything's lined up. I'm good to go. I'm going to take the hose, slide it in position, and just lock it in place on the lower radiator hose right there. It'll lock in place. Take the connector, line it up, lock that in place, and you can take the upper portion of the hose and slide it over here. Lock it in place.
All right, take this pipe, this upper hose and just line that up right there. Lock it in place. And then over here, line this up over here and just wiggle it a little bit. Lock that in place. Make sure this reservoir's locked into and that's good. So these have to go on together. Just slide this in position. Once you get this close, I'm going to start to tighten up the fan. Now these fan blades are ... The fan clutch is reverse thread, so it's almost like you're going to be loosening it.
It's really no easy way to do this. Just do it carefully to get it started. It's a little bit easier. Make sure the fan shroud is in properly. That's good. All right, if you have the ability to torque this nut for the fan, you're going to torque that between 22 and 29 foot pounds. I don't really have that ability, so I'm just going to put this tool on there and just give it a little tap. That should be good. Right here there's a push pin. That's going to go back in here, slide that in position and lock it down.
On this side, we're going to put this screw right here and I'm going to use a T25 and a electric ratchet to tighten this down. Just snug. I'll position this wiring harness right here and we'll plug the connector in right here. Lock that in place. Now we're just going to slide this side of the lower air box in here. Yours may have something that this connects to, this vehicle doesn't. It just slides in position and then this lower part slides there. And make sure these holes are lined up. Take these two bolts. Get these started.
Take a 10 millimeter socket and a ratchet and tighten these down. I'm using an electric ratchet. If you don't have an electric ratchet, just use a manual one. Take the air filter and install it. I'll take the top part of the air box and then slide it onto the snorkel first. Install that. And then there's all these clips. Take these clips. Lock this part down. Connect the mass air flow sensor or air flow meter. Then I'm going to slide this clamp right here. Take a straight blade screwdriver and tighten it down. Just snug, not too tight. Give it a shake, make sure it's good. Take this piece, slide this into the air box just like that and there's retainers right here. Take those push pins, lock them down.
Then we can take the negative side. Connect the negative side. Take the same 10 millimeter socket and ratchet, tighten it up. That's good. At this point, if you had that cover, you're going to want to put the cover back where it goes. When adding the coolant, we're going to use a funnel and you want to make sure you add the appropriate type of coolant. You can check your owner's manual.
There is BMW specific coolant. Generally it's blue coolant. So we're going to add ... We're going to fill up the reservoir. We're going to take this bleeder screw out. Just use a straight blade screwdriver or Phillips head. Just move that funnel. You could probably just loosen this up a little bit or you can take it all the way out. Just like that. Set it aside. You want to fill this all the way up to the top and have coolant come bubbling out of the bleeder hole. Once it's coming out of there, we're going to re-install the bleeder screw. It is plastic, so be careful. You don't want to strip this. Get this started again.
Then close that bleeder screw and then you're going to adjust the level in here. Now there is a little dipstick in here, when this is full, it's going to be all the way at the top. Now you can check it right here. It shows where the min and the max is, so you want to adjust that accordingly. You can add coolant or take out coolant. You can use like a turkey baster or some type of fluid pump to suck the fluid out. And then you want to let it run. You want to leave the heat on. When you leave the heat on, if you don't have heat, you're going to want to crack this open a little bit and just make sure you get some of the coolant out. It's probably a good idea to shut the engine off, let it cool down and re-adjust your coolant. When you're done, when the fluid levels at the appropriate level, take the cap, put it back on.
Make sure you monitor your temp gauge while you're running the vehicle. If you run the vehicle for about 10 minutes, the temp gauge should go right in the middle there. If it starts going to the red, shut the vehicle off and start over. Bleed the system again.
Thanks for watching. Visit 1aauto.com for quality auto parts shipped to your door. The place for DIY auto repair. And if you enjoyed this video, please click the subscribe button.
WPA04377
